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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

Wuz-A-zuk said:
Correct, the 05+ 250/350 knuckles will fit 1550 joints but will not fit rcv "big bells" without some clearancing/machining. The 450/550 knuckles will fit the rcv "big bells". I'd consider weights and widths before jumping right to the 450/550 knuckles though.
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Even on the 450/550 you need to machine the inner bore in order to fit the big bells through the UB hole of the knuckle.
FYI I wrote the "how to" on fitting big bells on 05+ 250/350 that's on the RCV website. I'm very familiar with them.
 
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Lil'John said:
When you say 'the tubes are 3.75" vs 3.5"', do you mean the 550 tubes are 3.75" while the 250/350 tubes are 3.5"?
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Both tubes are the same OD (about 3.75" but it's metric) but the 450/550 are thicker.


Hopefully last bit of questions for me.
If I just need inner c's out, 2wd or 4wd and f250 or f350 will work. Or if I want a super 60, 2wd or 4wd f450 or f550.
If I want a complete axle, f250 or f350 but I have to watch for a d50.

Did I miss it?
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You're good, except there are no Dana50s after 2002, so every 05+ front axle is a Dana 60.
 
Bebop said:
Both tubes are the same OD (about 3.75" but it's metric) but the 450/550 are thicker.

.
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To clarify as years are creating a mix up.
1999-2004 F250 3.5" tube .35" wall metric
1999-2004 F550 3.5" tube .44" wall metric
2005-2010 F250 3.75" tube .35" wall metric
2005-2010 F550 3.75" tube .44" wall metric
 
DesertCJ said:
FYI, even stock Kingpin 60s will turn 45 degrees. Need RCVs or clearanced shafts, but the knuckles turn 45 no problem.
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To clarify I was comparing stock F250 with the smaller joints and knuckles to the stock F550 larger joints and knuckles allowing more degrees of turning.
 
Didn't feel like readig through this whole thing BUT i'm contemplating getting a 03-06 chevy crew cab 2500HD and ditching that shitty IFS to swapping in a 05+ superduty D60 BUT i am wantng to keep it 8x6.5 pattern so I don't have to swap the rear axle as well.

One more thing is how to do this AND run a 17" wheel like a method if possible?
 
Grendel said:
Have you looked at where it is? Can you get a clean weld on the axle with all the other crap there?
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I cut the mount off already to see, looks like I can just keep cutting till it fits. (See image). This guy's video shows him cutting off all the brackets to weld on a JK truss or something: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81EAjEIoW0s

trac.png - Click image for larger version Name: trac.png Views: 0 Size: 513.7 KB ID: 334795
 
Yeah, we cut off all the mounts on one to go into a YJ. Have all the tools needed.

I like those other bars, but not at 600.00.

WFO has the directions published.

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/Uploads/...0-D60F_new.pdf

I like how it ties into the bump stop pad.


Next question, what is the width of the factory radius arms?
 
TTMotorsports said:
Didn't feel like readig through this whole thing BUT i'm contemplating getting a 03-06 chevy crew cab 2500HD and ditching that shitty IFS to swapping in a 05+ superduty D60 BUT i am wantng to keep it 8x6.5 pattern so I don't have to swap the rear axle as well.

One more thing is how to do this AND run a 17" wheel like a method if possible?
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patooyee sells a guide to drill the 8x6.5 pattern into the sd unit bearings. I've done 3 now, with the same guide, and it's worked great.
17's fit over the brakes on 05-12 i think:confused:
 
TTMotorsports said:
Didn't feel like readig through this whole thing BUT i'm contemplating getting a 03-06 chevy crew cab 2500HD and ditching that shitty IFS to swapping in a 05+ superduty D60 BUT i am wantng to keep it 8x6.5 pattern so I don't have to swap the rear axle as well.

One more thing is how to do this AND run a 17" wheel like a method if possible?
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Just drill the UBs and rotors and bolt your wheels
 
Hopefully this is the correct direction for the inner seals? The newer version inner seals had mixed comments on which direction they go. I kept the lip springs towards the liquid side as well as the flared shaft lip toward the C side.
Rather than buy a installer, I used some 1" all thread, nuts, and washers than fit the seals well. I had all these parts left over from fixturing the bushing sleeves on the A-arms from the last buggy. I used a smaller washer that dropped inside the rubber lip and stayed centered but still pushed on the metal underneath it. Then backed that washer with a bigger one so it would bottom out on the tube so the depth would be uniform and not too deep. I had to wrench on the nuts with reasonable force to get them to move so I can understand why lesser tools or too small of all thread will not work or bend and allow the seals to cant.
Last picture is to show the tubes are still straight after welding the truss and link mounts on. Maybe the picture does not show it well but looking through the tubes I can see that they are true.
I also cleaned the inside of the tubes with a 1/8" TIG rod with a curled end and some shop towels as a patch much like cleaning a gun barrel or in this size a cannon. Put the rod in a drill and it was easy.

IMG_9305.JPG


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Yes, that is the correct orientation for the seals. Good idea on the seal installer. I may have to see what I have sitting around to copy that...
 
Ring gear bolts. I originally cleaned the factory bolts and reinstalled them and torqued them to spec. I am reading that some use red Loctite. Should I pull them and use red Loctite. It seems like many stock bolts are torque only and do not use thread locker. A long time ago I regeared a 8.8" Ford and cleaned it with parts cleaner and used blue locktite and the parts cleaner prevented the locktite from working and the bolts all loosened up but l heard it and was able to strip it down with brake clean and redo it and it was good after that.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Ring gear bolts. I originally cleaned the factory bolts and reinstalled them and torqued them to spec. I am reading that some use red Loctite. Should I pull them and use red Loctite. It seems like many stock bolts are torque only and do not use thread locker. A long time ago I regeared a 8.8" Ford and cleaned it with parts cleaner and used blue locktite and the parts cleaner prevented the locktite from working and the bolts all loosened up but l heard it and was able to strip it down with brake clean and redo it and it was good after that.
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I usually use blue because I don't like having to use heat to get red loctited bolts back out?
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Ring gear bolts. I originally cleaned the factory bolts and reinstalled them and torqued them to spec. I am reading that some use red Loctite. Should I pull them and use red Loctite. It seems like many stock bolts are torque only and do not use thread locker. A long time ago I regeared a 8.8" Ford and cleaned it with parts cleaner and used blue locktite and the parts cleaner prevented the locktite from working and the bolts all loosened up but l heard it and was able to strip it down with brake clean and redo it and it was good after that.
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All I know is the factory AAM uses red locktite on theirs. I have always put red locktite on my ring gears too.
Can't be too careful on these, you wouldn't want them backing out on you.
 
Does anyone know what the factory radius arm mount ID and OD width is, at the frame?
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
So which one of these is it then big brain? Most of the time caliper bolts are fine thread.



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Neither of those are M16x50 and the person who specified that size didn't specify a length so I dunno where you're getting 50mm from. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Neither of those are M16x50 and the person who specified that size didn't specify a length so I dunno where you're getting 50mm from. :laughing:
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Smartass. It doesn't take much common sense to realize that the person who said the caliper bolts are M16x50 meant that they're 50mm in length. You're just gumming up this thread with useless trolling.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Neither of those are M16x50 and the person who specified that size didn't specify a length so I dunno where you're getting 50mm from. :laughing:
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50 is the length in MM numbnuts. Both bolts pictures are M16x50 meaning 50mm in length but with different pitches. The correct language would be M16x1.5-50, or M16x2.0-50. If not, show me a listing for a M16 bolt with 50 pitch.
 
Grendel said:
I think that's the same?

Yes, please.
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Individual brackets are ~85mm ID, 97.5mm OD, not counting the little flare out on the bottom. Meaning, pocket where the radius arm bolts in is ~85mm wide. Brackets are 38 7/8" outside to outside, 31 3/16" inside to inside.

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View attachment _SX7xJxApOevAcrkNvH3sl7RbcD2crTcykVpEQlnrUj0kl8YsFeUjZ5Qm6yAKTZ0X1rHHtgxVQglhLdPQJlV32hqcxU5XuS5GnO3
 
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