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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
CarterKraft
Thread ****ter Upper
10 amp auto resetting circuit breaker?I got one made by Klein that does dc.
It's telling me that I'm drawing between 5-6 amps when driving the window up and between 2-3 when driving the window down. Going either way, when it hits the stops it will jump to ~12.5amps and stay there if I keep my finger on the switch.
That's for one door. I have individual switches for each window so only one at a time will ever be used.
For the locks I'm getting 2.5 amps whether that's to lock or unlock. That's only for the split second it's doing it's thing, and when it's done doing it's thing it drops to zero. Leaving my finger on the switch does nothing. The locks don't spike like the doors do.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #1,953
The fuse block that will feed the power to the switches is this style (random picture). It's a prewired 26 circuit kit from Painless and I should have 6-8 unused circuits. So the plan is to repurpose one of the unused circuits for the windows/locks.
It uses the mini ATM style fuses.
Anyone have experience with the Mini ATM style circuit breakers?
CarterKraft
Thread ****ter Upper
Not what you're asking but it would be easy to put the CB behind the fuse panel.The fuse block that will feed the power to the switches is this style (random picture). It's a prewired 26 circuit kit from Painless and I should have 6-8 unused circuits. So the plan is to repurpose one of the unused circuits for the windows/locks.
It uses the mini ATM style fuses.
Anyone have experience with the Mini ATM style circuit breakers?
A regular 2 stud type.
But I'd try a ATM breaker first, I think there's room under the cover.
Auto Reset MINI® Circuit Breaker, Blade Style, Red, 10 Amp (1 MIN) | 71158 | Del City
Ensure reliable power protection with our 10 Amp Auto Reset MINI Circuit Breaker in a convenient blade style design. Perfect for automotive applications, this durable red circuit breaker provides essential safety by automatically resetting when overloaded, ensuring continuous operation and peace...
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #1,955
Not what you're asking but it would be easy to put the CB behind the fuse panel.
A regular 2 stud type.
But I'd try a ATM breaker first, I think there's room under the cover.
Auto Reset MINI® Circuit Breaker, Blade Style, Red, 10 Amp (1 MIN) | 71158 | Del City
Ensure reliable power protection with our 10 Amp Auto Reset MINI Circuit Breaker in a convenient blade style design. Perfect for automotive applications, this durable red circuit breaker provides essential safety by automatically resetting when overloaded, ensuring continuous operation and peace...www.delcity.net
I bought the tall covers for the fuse blocks that are made for using those ATM breakers. I have two of that style fuse blocks (engine side and chassis side).
The lid for the fuse blocks I made tall enough to clear the tall covers.
There is a little extra room between the two fuse blocks (the other one sits directly over the open hole you see) where I could fit one or two the the post kind of breakers if I needed them. But I think running the windows/locks off the chassis fuse block would be cleaner.
Behind all that is going to be a cluster **** of ac ducting and impossible to reach without removing the dash section.
CarterKraft
Thread ****ter Upper
Not what you're asking but it would be easy to put the CB behind the fuse panel.The fuse block that will feed the power to the switches is this style (random picture). It's a prewired 26 circuit kit from Painless and I should have 6-8 unused circuits. So the plan is to repurpose one of the unused circuits for the windows/locks.
It uses the mini ATM style fuses.
Anyone have experience with the Mini ATM style circuit breakers?
A regular 2 stud type.
But I'd try a ATM breaker first, I think there's room under the cover.
If it makes you feel any better CAT uses some of those breakers on there ****....I bought the tall covers for the fuse blocks that are made for using those ATM breakers. I have two of that style fuse blocks (engine side and chassis side).
The lid for the fuse blocks I made tall enough to clear the tall covers.
There is a little extra room between the two fuse blocks (the other one sits directly over the open hole you see) where I could fit one or two the the post kind of breakers if I needed them. But I think running the windows/locks off the chassis fuse block would be cleaner.
Behind all that is going to be a cluster **** of ac ducting and impossible to reach without removing the dash section.
WaterH
Well-known member
Not seen these before. I don’t quite understand how they work. Do they keep trying to reset over and over again? Like if you had a direct short, it obviously couldn’t reset until you fixed the short. If you decided to drive home to fix it, that thing would keep clicking? (Maybe your supposed to pull it under those circumstances.)Not what you're asking but it would be easy to put the CB behind the fuse panel.
A regular 2 stud type.
But I'd try a ATM breaker first, I think there's room under the cover.
Auto Reset MINI® Circuit Breaker, Blade Style, Red, 10 Amp (1 MIN) | 71158 | Del City
Ensure reliable power protection with our 10 Amp Auto Reset MINI Circuit Breaker in a convenient blade style design. Perfect for automotive applications, this durable red circuit breaker provides essential safety by automatically resetting when overloaded, ensuring continuous operation and peace...
Yes. As soon as it cools down, it closes the connection again. But that's why it's perfect for the window motors: kill the power before the rotor-locked window motor gets damaged, then self-reset to be ready for the next commanded motion.
If you had a high enough amp draw in your turn signal circuit, you could misuse it (until it failed) as a flasher
CarterKraft
Thread ****ter Upper
Once the bi-metal strip is over heated and tripped out the subsequent trips are at lower amperages so it's not as dangerous as it sounds.
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Messages
- 6,335
Regular ass 20 amp fuse. Stop entertaining BS ideas.
Also, don't use boots on your connectors. Unless you're making a waterproof harness they provide no advantage and cost money.
Caterpillar doesn't use boots on their connectors and their **** is getting a lot more abused than yours will ever be.
Rather focus on proper wire selection.
Also, don't use boots on your connectors. Unless you're making a waterproof harness they provide no advantage and cost money.
Caterpillar doesn't use boots on their connectors and their **** is getting a lot more abused than yours will ever be.
Rather focus on proper wire selection.
WaterH
Well-known member
Is there a reason not to use an auto reset? I realize you won’t find one just anywhere, but if they work, you shouldn’t need to. And even if it did burn, you can replace it with a standard fuse then.
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Messages
- 6,335
The fuse is only there for one and one reason only: Prevent a wire meltdown.
If it blows, you have problems.
You're not supposed to keep resetting the breaker until the magic smoke gets out.
Sooooo, if you size your wire and your fuse properly, and don't have any equipment failure (IE wire that rubs through or physical damage), they will never blow.
WaterH
Well-known member
So let’s say a wire rubs through. One tierap or electrical tape could get you on your way. Except you need a fuse of the correct size.
I guess I could see where you don’t want it repeatedly sparking somewhere, but I really like the idea of a manual reset.
Bebop
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I guess you should start switching your corvette and all the other vehicles you have from regular fuses to circuit breakers
WaterH
Well-known member
The Covette is the wife’s the dealer is only people to touch it. (I prefer it that way) As far as my other cars, this may be in the future for the Delorean. If I was building a car/truck and I didn’t want the aircraft breaker switches, definitely.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #1,969
Normal fuses. That makes sense about them trying to reset when there is still a problem.
Not making waterproof harnesses. I have the woven type of loom to go around the wire bundles. Anywhere wires that might be close to heat I was thinking of sliding a piece of XRP fire jacket over it. Only wires I can think of that would fall into that category are the starter wires and the wires for the O2 sensors.
Is using the boots to ziptie the loom to them a bad idea? I already ordered a bunch of boots. They were dirt cheap.
Bebop
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- 6,335
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #1,971
Crank sensor, good call. Pretty sure the knock sensors are down there too.
If you were securing woven loom at the end of the wires by the connectors, how would you do it? Just a ziptie at the end? Small piece of shrink fit?
I'm leaving for Saudi on Sat. Good to hear from the guys out there that it's started to cool off. It's finally worked out in my favor for a change.
Hopefully, before I leave, I can get to stringing out the chassis wiring. Right now I just have the wires I've ran secured with a few zipties
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #1,972
So, while I've been at work, I started making a list of what my '69 Camaro will be getting for it's freshening up as soon as the jeep is done.
As I was perusing the catalogs of endless parts for these things, I found a couple silly bits I want to add to the Jeep. I may be the only one who will understand the meaning but, that's fine by me.
On the hood scoop.
And on what's left of the front fenders.
I think it's funny.
As I was perusing the catalogs of endless parts for these things, I found a couple silly bits I want to add to the Jeep. I may be the only one who will understand the meaning but, that's fine by me.
On the hood scoop.
And on what's left of the front fenders.
I think it's funny.
Whatever
Member
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- Apr 21, 2021
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Safe travels.
So what tranny did you get?
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #1,977
I won the fight.
I didn't order anything. Realized that would have been stupid.Looking at 6 speed sequential dog ring boxes.
Narrowed down the choices to three.....and then forced myself to stop until I was at least at home so I could put out a few phone calls.
So it's.....
Albins ST6LPT
Quaife QBE69G
RTS6HD
I want 6 gears with 6th being an overdrive. Drop gears would be nice too.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #1,979
This is for my 69, so no tube chassis, no IRS. I want to keep the amount of work involved to a minimum.
The front will get a DSE subframe that uses the C6 spindles, r&p steering, coilovers and has great geometry. A pair of Anvil wide fenders. That will get me a 325 front tire.
All that just bolts on.
A set of subframe connectors. That's a bit of welding.
The rear is getting the DSE 4 link kit and mini tubs so I can fit a 345 tire.
That's the most involved and take some welding.
The rest is changing the all the interior from green to black, putting a RS grill and headlights on it.
And the engine and trans.
WaterH
Well-known member
Should have that done by your next work trip.
Wait a minute, this is not Skipped Link’s thread.
