Build 1989 Jeep Cherokee 1 ton swap

chaplinfj60 i haven't measure it recently. I'll find out tonight. I have to clearance some more. It does seem very strange it's binding with a high pinion front axle. Even with the carrier bearing shaft being higher than the previous setup. I don't know if there is some type of high clearance 1350 driveshaft yoke I need, but just the two yokes fighting each other makes me want to rip the whole Jeep apart, cut a bunch of stuff off and start a massive project that will take 4 years to complete. It would be easier to sell it.
 
this is one i got. and i am in afreement you should have easy day with high pinion.

one thing i found is some yokes have **** for clearance like this one i used and regretted. not much angle here. bottom pic



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How it started.

Front axle
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Transfer case
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How it's going.


Front axle
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Transfer case
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Transfer case
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I can spin it with Chanellocks now. There is still binding at full droop on the axle side of the driveshaft at the u joint between the ears. So if I jump the thing I might need to replace the front U joint but only if it bends.

I MIGHT be able to clearance a small groove there but it's really close to the grease cap.

I need to spray paint this so it won't rust.
 
to me yes. you find one at a parts store if you need it. so now you always have to carry that specific ujoint. i look at them as a band aid not actually fixing the problem. some people can make them last. and most times they will. i just dont like them. and i have no actual use of them to back them up. just my thought process says nope for chappy.
 
chaplinfj60 the droop is limited already so if anything I would just piece together a new driveshaft to get more clearance using the parts you linked above. It's about 26" long and I have at lease one spare 1330 big cap U joint.
 
dont use my exact parts i think i have 1350 ujoints. but use that would work other than that. yay .
Switching from 1330 big cap to all 1350 would mean I can carry one less u joint. Switching the front to a smaller 1330 yoke could possible give me some clearance and make a weak point that's easy to replace.
I'd already contemplated going to a companion flange and throwing MORE money at the problem if it solved my issue.

I could also rip it all apart and swap in a bunch of unnecessary headaches to possibly build it better a second time.
 
orrrrrrr pull apart and extend the front end 18 inch forward. ahahahahaha joking..
Yeah that's during the 2JZ swap. So I don't have to move the gas tank and gain 0 degree approach angle, and the diff won't hit the oil pan.
 
Poser shots


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More poser

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I hung my rear diff in two spots, and found out WH5 has a bypass after I went the way everyone else went.
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The FJ 40,000 was down right awesome to learn about. It's an FJ40 stretched to fit on a 1 ton Chevy frame.
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I broke the bolt for my doubler shifter. The one I threaded into the bottom of the shift lever I made. I don't know how I could do any better with the linkage since the holes are so small. It's almost as if they wanted me to use channel locks to shift the thing into gear instead of a cable.
 
I've never had rear recovery points. After a trip to Fordyce I ordered some from Ruffstuff and recently had time to put them in. At the advice from a fellow wheeler I cut a hole in the bumper so they would be welded more than just the perimeter.


First step was to mark the outline so I knew how big of a whole to cut. The die grinder was the perfect tool for this.

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Making sure I didn't cut too much, and getting an idea of where I'll mount it.
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Welded up. I'm actually proud of this. It's been a while since I've welded, but one thing I forgot was to preheat the clevis before welding. It will probably bite me in the ass years down the road when I'm getting recovered and the welds break.
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Bigger the job bigger the blob. It's inside the bumper so I'm not too worried about looks.
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Final product.

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Oh, and I didn't break the bolt for my shifter. It came unscrewed. Apparently the lock nut didn't do its job, and the threaded portion is too short. So I'll need some loctite.
 
I could have tried my hands at some glue tread, but I'm experienced in mounting 40s on DOY beadlocks using Harbor Freight/Amazon tire irons. Plus a fool and his money are soon parted.

I could see cord through this. I think it is due to sitting in the sun and being 13 years old.

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Found a guy who upgraded to 42s.
$1,600 later I have 4 more spares with 80% tread or more. Now to find time and motivation.
If I was really motivated I'd replace all of the tires and sell my 13 year old ones for a somewhat good price ($700?)
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I could have tried my hands at some glue tread, but I'm experienced in mounting 40s on DOY beadlocks using Harbor Freight/Amazon tire irons. Plus a fool and his money are soon parted.

I could see cord through this. I think it is due to sitting in the sun and being 13 years old.




Found a guy who upgraded to 42s.
$1,600 later I have 4 more spares with 80% tread or more. Now to find time and motivation.
If I was really motivated I'd replace all of the tires and sell my 13 year old ones for a somewhat good price ($700?)

I suggest mounting these to the beadlocks without using starting fluid.
 
I suggest mounting these to the beadlocks without using starting fluid.
I no longer have access to a man sized air compressor within jogging distance. I'll wear hearing protection this time though. Maybe I should setup the GoPro and post a video since this is the third set of tires on these same wheels.
 
The part I thought would be hard, and the part I thought would be hard was easy. New tire is mounted with 12 ounces of tire beads inside it and bead sealer. Old tire came off with a few different grinders because I must have done something backwards and it was 13 years old. It spent the last....3 sitting in direct sunlight.
The cool Vevor bead breaker tool kind of worked. It started to tear the bead which might have been due to age of the tire, inexperience with the tool, and poor design. It popped it off after I moved it a few times. I then proceeded to spend way too much time overthinking how to get a DIY steel beadlock wheel out of the tire, went the wrong way, and remembered I cut the last one off then had a guy with a tire machine mount them.

Going on was simple. Lots of soapy water, some of harbor freights finest 16" tire irons, patience and voila...it's on.
Seating it was even easier. Yes...I tried the fire thing to make FordFascist happy, and yess I pulled the core this time. No it didn't work.

Know what DID work? My pancake air compressor, a healthy amount of bead sealer, 40 psi, and just holding the rim down with my foot on the spot leaking a bit of air so it would make a full seal. I was honestly shocked it worked.

Pictures of tool and finished product. I can post photos of my cut job tomorrow. I've already told the Code Enforcement guys they're going to get another call about the jeep. Now I just need to smog and register the thing so I can go wheelin.


I still want real beadlocks. I imagine they are easier to swap tires on. So far I can only remove tires I intend to throw away or make into motorcycle jumps.


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30 psi with all the glue. Maybe this was part of the reason the last tire ripped trying to take it off.

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Nice! I'm in the boat of needing new tires soon too. Not looking forward to this process.
 
Nice! I'm in the boat of needing new tires soon too. Not looking forward to this process.
Buy REAL beadlocks. It's probably easier to get the old tires off when they don't have to go over the bead. Maybe it's just because this one was old and lived in the sun. The newer one went on much easier. The MTRs I tried to put on even gave a tire machine a lot of trouble.

If you make it up to Reno you could help me take the other 3 off, Mount 3 more and I'll make you a deal for 4 tires.
 
Buy REAL beadlocks. It's probably easier to get the old tires off when they don't have to go over the bead. Maybe it's just because this one was old and lived in the sun. The newer one went on much easier. The MTRs I tried to put on even gave a tire machine a lot of trouble.

If you make it up to Reno you could help me take the other 3 off, Mount 3 more and I'll make you a deal for 4 tires.
Haha, I'll make it out to Reno to wheel!
 
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