1989 Jeep Cherokee 1 ton swap

[RunningProblem]

Hayden cooler number 676.
3/8 hose (technically it says 11/32)
45 degree -6AN fittings from the steering box
Durango box only gives me 2 5/8 turn. I thought it was 3.5. This probably explains why I had to limit the 8" ram.
PSC 1.5x 8" ram.
Surplus center lines.
Random inline magnetic filter between the cooler and power steering pump.

Also, I found out the passenger side bump stop is 1" lower than the driver side. I don't know if it's necessary, or an accident I need to fix. It would explain hitting bump stops all the time when driving.

Attempting to drain the old ATF I was using. This must not have worked as well as I thought because there is still some in there. Red color exists.




My favorite part of this whole process was making a giant mess on the floor when the reservoir would flow over the top. It seems happy now.

Oh and the crawl box apparently still leaks. 😩

 

[RunningProblem]

I'm moving my track bar bracket. The current setup is/was designed for a stock XJ panhard bar. I was told a few times to move it out so now I am. The space it currently occupies is where I hope to put the hydro assist cylinder to move it off the diff cover. It should be able to remain really parallel to the tie rod to avoid rotating it during steering, and might allow me to use the full travel of the cylinder if I get a box with more than 2 5/8 turns.


I had to notch my bump stop pad. It should be fine because it's 5/16 box tubing, and I'll weld a fair amount to the new panhard bracket.



I might be able to use the existing panhard bracket for the new hydro mount, or I'll cut the tabs and reuse them. I welded 'the FAWK' out of this when I installed it.



This is a Barnes 4wd mount. I had to cut the top hole off so the tierod would clear. It would have thrown off the angles so much it wasn't worth keeping. Current bar is slightly less than 33" eye to eye. This is probably going to be 42" if I had to guess. I'll post the actual length later.

 

[Opiebennett]

Good move.

 

[RunningProblem]

Solve one problem. Make two more. It's a running problem I have.

The tie rod clamp for the ram won't clear the diff cover at full lock. If I move the tie rod up, and move the drag link to the farthest forward hole I'll probably lose steering angle until I get a box with more rotation. I also think both tie rod ends would smash into each other fighting for the same space on the passenger side arm.

New panhard mount. It's only tacked into place.

Panhard bar is 38 1/2" eye to eye. The longest measurement I made was 38 1/2" and the shortest was about 37 3/4". Enough I would be able to make it work with adjustability. The tub ends and heims added 6 inches to the bar length so I didn't need to buy 48". A 36" bar would have been perfect. I'm using Barnes 4wd threaded ends with the 1 1/4 hex end.

 

[RunningProblem]

Track bar welded up.

Plan is to figure out hydro asssist more when I have time. Maybe two one ton tie rod ends will fit on the high steer arm. In my brain it should because tie rods are popular.

Edit: just checked. Two 1 tone tie rod ends WILL fit (as expected) so perhaps I move everything up, lose some steering angle, and mount the ram higher.

 

[RunningProblem]

Hydro assist in its final resting place. As you can see I had to unmodify the tie rod.

 

[Mike Honcho]

Is that welded in the middle? That’s never going to break

 

[RunningProblem]

Is that welded in the middle? That’s never going to break

More than once. I cut and welded it to move it to high steer, then cut and welded it to move it back. Yay beveling and welding class.