Build 1989 Jeep Cherokee 1 ton swap

Hayden cooler number 676.
3/8 hose (technically it says 11/32)
45 degree -6AN fittings from the steering box
Durango box only gives me 2 5/8 turn. I thought it was 3.5. This probably explains why I had to limit the 8" ram.
PSC 1.5x 8" ram.
Surplus center lines.
Random inline magnetic filter between the cooler and power steering pump.

Also, I found out the passenger side bump stop is 1" lower than the driver side. I don't know if it's necessary, or an accident I need to fix. It would explain hitting bump stops all the time when driving.
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Attempting to drain the old ATF I was using. This must not have worked as well as I thought because there is still some in there. Red color exists.
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My favorite part of this whole process was making a giant mess on the floor when the reservoir would flow over the top. It seems happy now.

Oh and the crawl box apparently still leaks. 😩
 

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I'm moving my track bar bracket. The current setup is/was designed for a stock XJ panhard bar. I was told a few times to move it out so now I am. The space it currently occupies is where I hope to put the hydro assist cylinder to move it off the diff cover. It should be able to remain really parallel to the tie rod to avoid rotating it during steering, and might allow me to use the full travel of the cylinder if I get a box with more than 2 5/8 turns.


I had to notch my bump stop pad. It should be fine because it's 5/16 box tubing, and I'll weld a fair amount to the new panhard bracket.

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I might be able to use the existing panhard bracket for the new hydro mount, or I'll cut the tabs and reuse them. I welded 'the FAWK' out of this when I installed it.

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This is a Barnes 4wd mount. I had to cut the top hole off so the tierod would clear. It would have thrown off the angles so much it wasn't worth keeping. Current bar is slightly less than 33" eye to eye. This is probably going to be 42" if I had to guess. I'll post the actual length later.
 

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Solve one problem. Make two more. It's a running problem I have.

The tie rod clamp for the ram won't clear the diff cover at full lock. If I move the tie rod up, and move the drag link to the farthest forward hole I'll probably lose steering angle until I get a box with more rotation. I also think both tie rod ends would smash into each other fighting for the same space on the passenger side arm.

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New panhard mount. It's only tacked into place.
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Panhard bar is 38 1/2" eye to eye. The longest measurement I made was 38 1/2" and the shortest was about 37 3/4". Enough I would be able to make it work with adjustability. The tub ends and heims added 6 inches to the bar length so I didn't need to buy 48". A 36" bar would have been perfect. I'm using Barnes 4wd threaded ends with the 1 1/4 hex end.
 
Track bar welded up.

Plan is to figure out hydro asssist more when I have time. Maybe two one ton tie rod ends will fit on the high steer arm. In my brain it should because tie rods are popular.


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Edit: just checked. Two 1 tone tie rod ends WILL fit (as expected) so perhaps I move everything up, lose some steering angle, and mount the ram higher.
 
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I bought the Napa air compressor for $124, spent $10 on a regulator (not pictured) and officially abandoned my use of CO2 for airing up. I also bought a 4 tire kit from Tyler at MoRRFlate during his Black Friday 20% off sale. I never carried the CO2 tank with me when I went wheeling. The only other modification I could think of doing for this would be an Anderson plug for the battery connections and I don't think it's necessary because the 4 tire kit should give me enough slack for the compressor to sit in the bumper/winch.

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fl0w3n said:
thats cool
Click to expand...
It will be cooler when it works like the YouTube videos.
It currently jumps back and forth between 70 and 100 PSI. In videos with this same setup they run constant. Mine cuts off then kicks on and wouldn't constantly fill a tire when I tried it earlier today. I don't know why. I have the same regulator as another guy using the same compressor and his runs constant until he stops inflating the tire.
 
Carrier bearing driveshaft will be 9" long eye to eye. The doubler moved the front yoke back 9" which determined the length. I bought the Wide Open Design kit locally with a 1350 and 1410 yokes. I just now had time/ambition to assemble it. I'll do my best to get it as straight as possible but I'm not expecting it to be close than 20 thousandths of run out.

It measures 18" fully assembled with a 10" long piece of tube. I need roughly 1 1/2" for an OAL of roughly 9" long.

Instead of driving 30 minutes to press the yoke on I just hit it with my purse.

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Shaft used with the carrier bearing.

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Trying to do this using ONLY math, and saving my double Cardan front driveshaft shaft, wasn't the right way. I should have mocked it up, and I was able to salvage the parts to fabricobble something together. I need to shorten the front driveshaft and remove the double cardan.

Tack weld mock up.

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Doubler shift linkage clears. I had to think about installing this so I didn't put the brackets in the wrong spot. This way it will slide out from the front. Switching the brackets around would have me fighting the U Joint and the bracket when trying to take anything apart or install it.
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so that mount is welded solid? is engine also solid? when i talked to wide open they recommended having on rubber somewhat.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
so that mount is welded solid? is engine also solid? when i talked to wide open they recommended having on rubber somewhat.
Click to expand...
Engine has polyurethane bushings.

I was planning to weld it solid. A buddy said to figure out a way to put some type of bushing in there.
 
it may never be a problem or maybe a problem
i look at like this. if engine trans and tcase all rock up under load what will happen to the fixed carrier bearing. i am not saying your wrong. i am just saying look at and come to your own conclusion.
heck whiles it tacked there. put a camera on it and put it in low low low and give it some gas and see what moves. maybe nothing moves
 
Apparently this didn't post the first time....


I have the carrier bearing shaft mocks up. It clears everything nicely and will leave me with about a 27" front driveshaft. The rubber bushings only slightly melted when I was welding stuff together, and they're clearing the transmission crossmember enough to see daylight even though the pictures don't show it well. I just need to weld it into place and get some hardware.




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I needed a new yoke for the transfer case. I thought I could find a way to make the forged CN front yoke work, but at the end of the day I went with a 26 spline Dana 44 yoke from Spicer which was just enough shorter to matter.

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I had to bend the shift linkage slight towards the middle of the Jeep to clear the yoke. I don't know if the 26 spline CV yoke from Tom Woods would be any different. I found this part from Denny's Driveshaft and bought it at Summit Racing.

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Tabs are welded in with the best snot booger welds I could manage to get in tight space. It's a bigger blob kind of job.
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I cannot find the straps I bought.
I need a 26" long driveshaft.
 
Took it out to a local place. It's making a weird kind of grinding noise. I don't know if it is just the front yoke rubbing on the front axle now with a different angle, or an output/input shaft in the doublers. It doesn't do it the whole time.



The doublers crawls amazingly. I went down a hill and was as vertical as I'd want to get. I was standing on the brake pedal with both feet and it just inched down until I needed some momentum at the bottom to not flip.

It also crawls so much easier now.
Drivers tire off the ground. It came down so slow I wasn't sure if I'd roll or be safe.
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Slightly less pucker factor here once the passenger rear hit the flatter portion of the rock.
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Again, such slow deliberate movement was awesome.
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Now on to Fordyce next weekend to play for a day, and hopefully not break something catastrophic.
 
Oh yeah, I blew up my MORRFlate hose. I plugged it right into my Napa air compressor, everything gets hot even in the shade and around 25 PSI I touched something and the hose burst.
 
Let the gearing do the work. Low low and 1st gear should controllably inch down a vertical ledge no problem.
 
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It did. I just didn't want to bump the bottom and flip forward. It probably wasn't as steep as it felt. It was definitely giving me and the passenger feelings of discomfort probably uncommon with a roll cage.
 
I doubt this is the only issue, but at ride height this is what my front yoke looked like. The Dana 44 yoke on the front output of the transfer case looked similar and I couldn't freely spin the front driveshaft.

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I did what I could for a few hours last night to create some clearance. The carrier bearing shaft sits higher than the driveshaft did before I installed the double. It's creating binding I didn't think would occur. Since I'm heading to Fordyce on Sunday I'm going to clearance this and the transfer case as much as I can. I've thought about switching to a flange with hopes of getting more clearance, but it might not work. There is one spot I won't be able to change without making a new shaft from the doubler because the one I made isn't perfect. If has a noticeable wobble in it which causes binding in the u joint when the suspension droops out. Since the caps are slightly larger than 1350 on the front yoke I don't expect to gain any clearance or free play if I switched to a 1350 companion flange setup on my front driveshaft. I've ground down the front yoke on the driveshaft as much as I'm comfortable with because there isn't much left before cutting into the tube.
 
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