How's my numbers?

I can easily move the the axle side lower brackets up. Just depends on how strict we are on the 25% rule

Moving only axle side lowers..
From the ground -

18" = 107% Anti squat
19" = 98% Anti squat
20" = 86% Anti squat (20" would be at axle tube centerline, appx)

Screen Shot 2024-12-07 at 1.02.33 PM.png
 

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Not to be a pain in the ass but could you throw your numbers in the newer calculator? That will tell me how much load the links see.

You would be down to like 6.5in of separation right? It isnt much seperation but you have 4 links instead of 3 which helps and a TJ isn’t too heavy.

I’d aim for 86%
 
06h3 said:
Not to be a pain in the ass but could you throw your numbers in the newer calculator? That will tell me how much load the links see.

You would be down to like 6.5in of separation right? It isnt much seperation but you have 4 links instead of 3 which helps and a TJ isn’t too heavy.

I’d aim for 86%
Click to expand...
I would be hesitant to go that low on seperation. At 4600 lbs and a V8, there will be a decent bit of torque trying to twist those brackets.

Agreed on the 86.
 
06h3 said:
Not to be a pain in the ass but could you throw your numbers in the newer calculator? That will tell me how much load the links see.

You would be down to like 6.5in of separation right? It isnt much seperation but you have 4 links instead of 3 which helps and a TJ isn’t too heavy.

I’d aim for 86%
Click to expand...
Yes, of course. You're the one trying to help me - i'll do what I'm told. Originally I did not find the sheet.

Here, and I threw the front numbers in as it sits now. I don't see the static anti squat tho...
 

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SolidKM said:
Yes, of course. You're the one trying to help me - i'll do what I'm told. Originally I did not find the sheet.

Here, and I threw the front numbers in as it sits now. I don't see the static anti squat tho...
Click to expand...
Is it showing anything at all or did the macros get blocked from running? I really do need to stop putting off getting V7 fixed and released.

1733612836358.png

Lower forces are -10,852 rear and -12,198 front.
1733612874091.png

1733612887031.png
 
Intended use is rock crawling - Things like moab, fordyce, rubicon trail, etc. burnouts when i want to be an asshole. it is not a daily driver.

What could i try and manipulate to make it better?
 

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From what I see, 10k force at 1G is not the end of the world....yes, would it be better to have more separation? Absolutely, but if you cant fit a taller upper link I would run that separation. Run 5/8 bolts, not 9/16th and make the frame upper brackets VERY strong with extra tie ins. Use quality stuff like FK heims and I think it will live. Having your AS up over 100% at ride height is too much and getting it in the 80% range is very beneficial.
 
Dude, thanks you for the quick and pointed feedback. looks like I attached a screenshot of the old version. New version attached

So that i am understanding things correctly, i need more separation at the axle side link brackets but i cant just move the lowers down lower b/c it increases the AS number. So I need to play with the axle side mounts to try and get as close to 10" of s separation as possible and keep the AS in the 80s.

Right?

as of now, leave the frame side alone?

5/8 bolts, check. Not to derail this this thread too much, i was looking at ballistic joints or just JJs all around. But i am undecided and open to suggestions.

Thank you

-Mike
 

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Last edited:
Correct. so your best case to get 10in of separation and keep your AS in the 80s is to lower your frame side lowers.

Also to get less Antisquat change through travel is to make your uppers shorter than your lowers.

If you can’t lower your frame side lower mounts then you live with high AS OR low separation.

I’ve tried em all but ballistic joints. Johnny joints, flex joints from parts Mike, Barnes joints, ruffstuff heims, Barnes heims, I kill em all. The only ones that stay in good shape is FK JMX16T. Pricey but they are good.

With that said, I’m 7k lbs, on 43s, have a 110:1 crawl ratio through an auto trans so my joints see load. I broke 9/16 bolts in the bracket. Going 5/8 has been problem free. Less separation will put more load on everything
 
I had to do some modifying on the rear axle links and truss after putting in atlas 4sp.
Here is the calculations I get, my first time do a 4link.
Some street driving around town and to/from trails.
No hard core rock crawling, will do Rubicon, Sand Hallow, Moab, and Naches.
not so sure about my Vehicle CG Height, I left the number that was in there

4link a.png


4link b.png

4link c.png
 

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Last edited:
Ovrez said:
I had to do some modifying on the rear axle links and truss after putting in atlas 4sp.
Here is the calculations I get, my first time do a 4link.
Some street driving around town and to/from trails.
No hard core rock crawling, will do Rubicon, Sand Hallow, Moab, and Naches.
not so sure about my Vehicle CG Height, I left the number that was in there

4link a.png


4link b.png

4link c.png
Click to expand...
Rear antis look high. And the front panhard bar is pretty short. It may be worth getting it from oversteer to understeer.
 
Treefrog said:
Rear antis look high. And the front panhard bar is pretty short. It may be worth getting it from oversteer to understeer.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback, having trouble making the oversteer be understeer.
I can fix the rear antis some by making links 6" longer.
Everything in the front is how I got the TJ, but I can get a 40" panhard bar to fit.
Will also make front links 4" longer.
What needs to happen to keep rear pinion from rotating as little as possible.

Here are the new calculations.
2nd time a.png

2nd time b.png

2nd time c.png
 

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Ovrez said:
Thanks for the feedback, having trouble making the oversteer be understeer.
I can fix the rear antis some by making links 6" longer.
Everything in the front is how I got the TJ, but I can get a 40" panhard bar to fit.
Will also make front links 4" longer.
What needs to happen to keep rear pinion from rotating as little as possible.

Here are the new calculations.
Click to expand...
From a quick glance, try going wider with the uppers at the axle. Generally, I view it as place the antis and adjust width to get roll.

I would check the length difference between the drag link and panhard bar. If they are similar and parallel, it may not be worth changing unless you can lengthen the drag link too.

Why do you want to keep the rear pinion from rotating? Try the driveshaft page to see how bad it actually is.
 
good afternoon. so gonna start the buggy links soon. by soon i mean soon. and this is a screen shot of the calc.

where do anti dive numbers show up? or do i need more info

1734375850024.png

and these are 100 percent not accurate. just need to put numbers in to see how things are effecting other things as i change one number here there so disregard.
 
Need to put 50% in for drive bias up top. Then remember its half of what it actually is so if your AD is 60% its really 120% when 50% drive bias is in there.
 
Something is odd. It shouldn't matter what the drive bias is set to for AD in the front. Front AD is reacting to braking torque, not drive torque. The numbers would change if you play with the front brake bias box.
Is it even giving you roll center heights? Cause there seems to be some other missing outputs.

1734378656838.jpg
 
here is some numbers front only top pic
bottom pic is rear. and i have a projected mount for the rear uppers out board more than the front just trying out numbers.

1734439647426.png



1734440042809.png



this is the way it would be if i went out board uppers frame side. on the outrigger for the boat side. but is it needed.
1734440179711.png


or can i just put them here on the subframe again uppers frame side.
1734440221018.png
 
chaplinfj60 said:
here is some numbers front only top pic
bottom pic is rear. and i have a projected mount for the rear uppers out board more than the front just trying out numbers.

1734439647426.png



1734440042809.png



this is the way it would be if i went out board uppers frame side. on the outrigger for the boat side. but is it needed.
1734440179711.png


or can i just put them here on the subframe again uppers frame side.
1734440221018.png
Click to expand...
I would suggest looking at the numbers for all options. From a quick glance at what is shown, rear antis might be a bit low and the front is quite a bit high.
 
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