Build 1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

Sean said:
ARB does this too? I thought it was just a Yukon thing. I have a NIB 35 spline D60 Yukon ZIP comp model that's locked unless you unlock it....got it as part of a package deal when I bought out a friend on his buggy project. Probably won't use it though.
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Seems like it's rare AF too
 
Bebop said:
I handle part supplies for 4 "no budget" race cars for the past 3 years. 30+ combined races together.
Very experienced race teams and mechanics prepping them.

3 started with ARBs. 1 with a spool.
All 3 ended up making ARB seal replacement a prep item in order not to loose the lockers half way through the season.
The 1 with a spool never had a problem.

If ARB (or yukon for that matter) was making a competition 14 bolt 40sp locker that stays locked when the air supply fails, I'd buy 5 right now. (4 for these cars + 1 for me).
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Racing is definitely on a different level with failures.

Like I said, I'm not "anti anti ARB" but at the same time. I think most issues you see on the trail are user error/poor install/lack of care, ect.

I currently have at least one of each type of locker (auto, lunchbox, air, electric and spool) and like them each for what they're for.

Wuz-A-zuk said:
So there's no selectable locker available that holds "locked" when there's a failure in either air supply or electronics?

Has anyone ever used the chillcat e-lockers manual cable conversion? In a world of everyone trying to keep it simple I've always wondered why I haven't seen a setup like this for other differentials besides the Toyota. Prone to pop out or?

www.lceperformance.com

E-Locker Manual Cable Conversion

At Chilkat we are 4WD enthusiasts, problem solvers by design, and enjoy a good challenge in the shop or on the trail. We designed, built, and bench tested our original cable conversion kit: naturally dubbed the E-Racer. The E-Racer replaces the OEM electric actuator.
www.lceperformance.com www.lceperformance.com

Why can't this be done on a Ford 9" elocker or any other e-locker?
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Toyota elockers suck real wheelin. Broke mine on 35s.

For that matter ox lockers are interesting for the fact you can get it in Cable air or electric plus you can buy a little piece that you can install with a crescent wrench from the outside that holds it locked. I also like the fact that even if you choose air all the seals are external.

I know the early ones had a bad rap for being weak but supposedly the newer generation is a lot stronger I'm very tempted to put one in the back of my current build but I'd also do a comp air Locker if I can find one.
 
Have installed a couple of OX lockers. They work great.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Because without spider gears you can't overdrive the outside tire. The only thing cutting brakes with an auto locker gets you over a simpler line lock/drift brake is that when you are doing front digs, you can sometimes get one of the rear wheels to freewheel, but usually you just end up dragging the one wheel you're braking if the other side is freewheeling. With a selectable rear, you can use cutting brakes all the time, not just when doing a front dig.
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I guess if your driving in 4x yeah.. most people don't do that or even need to. Auto locker with cutting brakes is just fine for 99.5% trail cars
 
Bebop said:
Also tried that, not true.
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Oh really?

Watch this, he uses the cutting brake to lock up the inside rear tire and stays in 4 wheel drive. Do you really think he could have turned this tight and fast using a front dig with an auto locker?
 
POR said:
I guess if your driving in 4x yeah.. most people don't do that or even need to. Auto locker with cutting brakes is just fine for 99.5% trail cars
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I'm confused, are you saying you are usually driving around in front wheel drive?
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Oh really?

Watch this, he uses the cutting brake to lock up the inside rear tire and stays in 4 wheel drive. Do you really think he could have turned this tight and fast using a front dig with an auto locker?
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Gosh, I got a ****box crawler build here. Let’s not get carried away with comparisons with $125,000+ comp buggies. :flipoff2:
 
Strange, I've watched guys in cars just like that fail at doing just that lol. The internet can be convenient at times. Just like a normal burn the situation has to be right for it to work perfectly.
 
94toytruck said:
Strange, I've watched guys in cars just like that fail at doing just that lol. The internet can be convenient at times. Just like a normal burn the situation has to be right for it to work perfectly.
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Exactly

You can do a front dig and just drag both tires straight

You can unlock the rear and drag one tire going straight.

You can also pivot off **** in 4wd locked.

It's all about reading the terrain and setting up for it. Either using gravity of a side hill or pivoting off rock or tree.

Imo, that video looked more like it was 80-90% sharp 4ws then really any kind of dig.
 
Well in other news. I ordered this today.
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Wilwood pull style slave got terrible reviews. So I’m opting to try this push style. Although I have no idea how big this is. It’ll be competing for space next to the driveshaft.

Fabricating this all up should keep me busy for a bit. :laughing:
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Oh really?

Watch this, he uses the cutting brake to lock up the inside rear tire and stays in 4 wheel drive. Do you really think he could have turned this tight and fast using a front dig with an auto locker?
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To be fair, comp
'84 Bronco II said:
I'm confused, are you saying you are usually driving around in front wheel drive?
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'84 Bronco II said:
I'm confused, are you saying you are usually driving around in front wheel drive?
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I thought you were talking about dragging a tire while rear end under power. Like helping hold in cracks at sand hollow.. but that about it as far as advantage. Mechanical locker is just fine for most atlas/300/205/20 twin stick cased cars. you can shift in and out your diffs pretty quickly.
 
Mounted my fuel cell tonight.

I’ll ask the masses: what’s more important at this point. Center of gravity or line of sight. Right now I can still see my rear tire and rear diff. If I move it lower and center I lose sight of both.

What’s Irate think? This is 5 gallons. I might be able get it slightly lower. Untuchable’s is about the same height, but dead center.

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Okay. Second time is better. This stupid buggy humbles me and makes me feel ******ed daily. :laughing:

Somehow this maintained my sight-lines. I have no idea how. I can’t see the rear diff strapped in, but oh well.

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Next on the to-do list this week is mount the cutting brakes and the slave cylinder.

Cutting brakes are pretty straight forward.

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Slave is a little more involved. Plan is to take off the throw out lever, cut it down, flip it over, and use the top starter bolt and battery bracket for a 3 point mount. Taking up more passenger space. :flipoff2:

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Mike Honcho said:
Jeeps are gay:flipoff2:

I like how small your buggy is, looks about golf cart size. Hurry it up and get this done!
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It’s pretty much the exact same size as a 4 door Tracker. Everyone not in the offroading world says, “This is way bigger than it looks in pics,” when they see it in person.

Hopefully I get back to the midwest sooner rather than later.
 
The way you have it mounted now, lower and centered is how mine is mounted.
 
I'd put tank behind your seat and move radiator over to passenger side.. or run radiator down the side of car.
 
Any opinions why this won’t work?

Throw out lever has to push back towards the seats. I tried setting this up over the starter like I wanted, but there’s no room for the nuts on the backside of the cylinder (running into the transmission bell housing bolt). The further from the starter this gets it starts to block my view of the bottom of the passenger tire.

The lever moves 7/8” inch. This slave is from an old Landcruiser and feels like it can push almost 2”. In this location all I have to do is weld a nut and tab/nut on the battery mount for installation.

I can’t see why this won’t work. But want opinions/ideas before I commit.

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FleshEater said:
I like how everything is now. But what do you mean side of the car?
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You could put tank behind you and run the radiator parallel with frame rail behind that. If that makes sense.. then you wouldn't have any obstructed view from drivers seat.
 
I know I’m just a web wheeler, but I think it’ll work fine with the slave mounted that way. I wonder if technically the mechanical advantage of the arm is reduced because it is no longer in line with the throw out bearing fork? (Someone who knows physics better chime in) But the hydraulic setup should be more powerful than the cable
 
SKULLYOTA said:
I know I’m just a web wheeler, but I think it’ll work fine with the slave mounted that way. I wonder if technically the mechanical advantage of the arm is reduced because it is no longer in line with the throw out bearing fork? (Someone who knows physics better chime in) But the hydraulic setup should be more powerful than the cable
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My thought was to keep it as long and as straight as it came from Suzuki. This takes a bit of force so if I start shortening it and or off setting it more force will be required. Trying to keep this as straight forward as I can.
 
First, you need something to deal with the misalignment. They way it is connected to the arm will bind up.

Second, I have a hard time seeing it only moving 7/8"? Do you have a complete rig you could climb under while someone pushes in the clutch?

You won't need the same leverage with hydraulic as clutch anyway.

Being that it's "custom" I'd build some adjustment into it also. At minimum, find a hiem joint that threads onto that slave, then you have the correct pivot.

If it were me, I'd try and plump the slave and master together, then bleed it, so you can test and make sure it's doing what you want. Then still have more adjustment for once it's running.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
First, you need something to deal with the misalignment. They way it is connected to the arm will bind up.

Second, I have a hard time seeing it only moving 7/8"? Do you have a complete rig you could climb under while someone pushes in the clutch?

You won't need the same leverage with hydraulic as clutch anyway.

Being that it's "custom" I'd build some adjustment into it also. At minimum, find a hiem joint that threads onto that slave, then you have the correct pivot.

If it were me, I'd try and plump the slave and master together, then bleed it, so you can test and make sure it's doing what you want. Then still have more adjustment for once it's running.
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That heim is a good idea. Tractor Supply should have one in stock.

I shoved a long punch in this lever, took up the slack, and used a tape measure behind it to confirm the 7/8”. The cable leaves too much slack when adjusting. This lever has play and then stops, then pushes the throwout bearing from there.

Plan is to tack it all up, run a line, and test it before fully committing. I also want adjust anywhere I can get it.
 
+1 on the heim, that is a good idea. What about mounting the slave with the one lower bolt so that it can pivot as it extends out, and correct the misalignment that way? would that work?

maybe that's too much of a Bubba/Jethro solution lol
 
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