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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

YotaAtieToo said:
Like I said, do some research. Some pillow blocks don't work well either

OK fine, I was curious a way, so I'll spoon feel it :flipoff2:

Home brew 2 piece driveshaft

irate4x4.com

Carrier bearing tech

So what is the consensus on carrier bearings...i know on the old site you had cast, rubber, BKR vs WOD Perks/ drawbacks to diff kinds?
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
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I have that link opened in another window. Read it last night. :flipoff2:
 
FleshEater said:
Slowly picking away at stuff. Got the battery box today. Going to mount the slave just forward of that on the battery mount. Got into the driveshafts from Wuz. Pulled apart the camper driveshaft thing he gave me for my mid shaft. Once all these are done it will feel good to knock them out. Also mounted the HP yesterday and dropped it down for measurements on shafts.

IMG_4549.jpeg
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I'd definitely trim that panel up with the top of the slider. Will get ripped off first trip out.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Like I said, do some research. Some pillow blocks don't work well either

OK fine, I was curious a way, so I'll spoon feel it :flipoff2:

Home brew 2 piece driveshaft

irate4x4.com

Carrier bearing tech

So what is the consensus on carrier bearings...i know on the old site you had cast, rubber, BKR vs WOD Perks/ drawbacks to diff kinds?
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
Click to expand...
So i am using a piece of driveshaft, some 1.75"x .120 and a turned down pinion with pinion yoke.
 
I run this on my Toyota driveshaft carrier bearing after blowing out every stock style. Holds up great but doesn't transfers vibrations. Fit right on a first gen Tacoma carrier bearing shaft.

Inland Empire 211590-1XS: Driveshaft Center Bearing Support Bearing ID: 1.181" - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Inland Empire Driveshaft Center Bearing Support Bearing ID: 1.181" 211590-1XS parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!
www.jegs.com www.jegs.com
 
Motiracer38 said:
I run this on my Toyota driveshaft carrier bearing after blowing out every stock style. Holds up great but doesn't transfers vibrations. Fit right on a first gen Tacoma carrier bearing shaft.

Inland Empire 211590-1XS: Driveshaft Center Bearing Support Bearing ID: 1.181" - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Inland Empire Driveshaft Center Bearing Support Bearing ID: 1.181" 211590-1XS parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!
www.jegs.com www.jegs.com
Click to expand...

I ended up ordering this.

The pillow block I got from Surplus Center doesn’t fit. So…just bought that. Also makes mounting easier.

Started messing around with driveshafts. Idea is to slug these into a 9” piece of 1.75” ID DOM. Going to see if the local supplier has any .188” wall at 1.75” ID. Not sure I want 2.25”x.250” wall.

IMG_4568.jpeg
 
FleshEater said:
I ended up ordering this.
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$140 for that? Over a $30 pillow block?

FleshEater said:
The pillow block I got from Surplus Center doesn’t fit. So…just bought that. Also makes mounting easier.

Started messing around with driveshafts. Idea is to slug these into a 9” piece of 1.75” ID DOM. Going to see if the local supplier has any .188” wall at 1.75” ID. Not sure I want 2.25”x.250” wall.

IMG_4568.jpeg
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I don't even understand what you're trying to do, but you don't need anything that heavy at all being above the belly pan. 120wall would be more than enough.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
$140 for that? Over a $30 pillow block?



I don't even understand what you're trying to do, but you don't need anything that heavy at all being above the belly pan. 120wall would be more than enough.
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That’s for the rear driveshaft. I’m making 3 driveshafts. The mid shaft will just be built with factory steel. It’s the front and rear I’m concerned about.

Also, that pillow block doesn’t fit what I have. So I can either spend money on new parts altogether or just get a bearing that works. Either way it’s money out.
 
FleshEater said:
That’s for the rear driveshaft. I’m making 3 driveshafts. The mid shaft will just be built with factory steel. It’s the front and rear I’m concerned about.
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I'd scrap those pieces and start with a normal rear. I think it's 2 1/2" schedule 40 pipe that works perfectly for Toyotas and is pretty cheap.

FleshEater said:
Also, that pillow block doesn’t fit what I have. So I can either spend money on new parts altogether or just get a bearing that works. Either way it’s money out.
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I guess I don't get it. All the info is out there for you to buy the pillow block that fits the Toyota stuff.

I don't see how that yellow thing is going to hold up very well to rock buggy abuse anyway.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'd scrap those pieces and start with a normal rear. I think it's 2 1/2" schedule 40 pipe that works perfectly for Toyotas and is pretty cheap.



I guess I don't get it. All the info is out there for you to buy the pillow block that fits the Toyota stuff.

I don't see how that yellow thing is going to hold up very well to rock buggy abuse anyway.
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Is schedule 40 going to survive turning in a sharp rock? Are you telling me to scrap this because my welds won’t hold or what? Give me a reason, not just you should. Why?

Well, I’ll keep looking for a pillow block, but this Toyota necks down on the outsides of the bearing. Other than a factory set up, I didn’t see any that did that.
 
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94toytruck said:
Yeah cause they never break. 5 hours from home, 1st day of a 3 day trip the stock tube in my midship left go and mangled the bearing and mount when it twisted off. My trip was done before lunch time.

FB_IMG_1730027446096.jpg


FB_IMG_1730027429535.jpg
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Good to know. I’ll build out the mid shaft as well.
 
I use a stock Toyota midship. I made a collar out of a chunk of DOM drop I had here to take up the step. The bearing grub screws tighten on the shaft and the nut holds it all tight. The collar is just there to take up space so nothing can wobble around.
 
94toytruck said:
I use a stock Toyota midship. I made a collar out of a chunk of DOM drop I had here to take up the step. The bearing grub screws tighten on the shaft and the nut holds it all tight. The collar is just there to take up space so nothing can wobble around.
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That’s a good idea, but the one I bought is too long. Can’t get the flange bolted down. I measured and double checked, but I’m thinking Surplus Center or me confused a measurement.
 
FleshEater said:
Is schedule 40 going to survive turning in a sharp rock? Are you telling me to scrap this because my welds won’t hold or what? Give me a reason, not just you should. Why?
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It's 200 wall, so thicker than 3/16, yes it holds up well.

I just don't understand what you're doing, typically you just replace the ~3" Diameter tubing with whatever length you need.

FleshEater said:
Well, I’ll keep looking for a pillow block, but this Toyota necks down on the outsides of the bearing. Other than a factory set up, I didn’t see any that did that.
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Like I said, the info is out there, people have been doing it for over 20 years.
 
Byro said:
I never realized there were so many NASA scientists on the board. Fuck. Build some shit. Wheel it. Find the weak link. Fix and carry on. Apparently I’ve built tons of wrong shit that will never work or whatever.
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Then what's the point of forums? Most of reason I'm here is to learn how to build something that doesn't break 5 feet into the first trail after towing it for 20 hours.

Not exactly my idea of fun.
 
Byro said:
I never realized there were so many NASA scientists on the board. Fuck. Build some shit. Wheel it. Find the weak link. Fix and carry on. Apparently I’ve built tons of wrong shit that will never work or whatever.
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No problem, I'll let him blow his shit up. Just trying to help him not make a mistake I made.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It's 200 wall, so thicker than 3/16, yes it holds up well.

I just don't understand what you're doing, typically you just replace the ~3" Diameter tubing with whatever length you need.



Like I said, the info is out there, people have been doing it for over 20 years.
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Well I accidentally cut off the splined side when I was trying to remove it from the factory tube. It was the first time I ever cut into a driveshaft. This is an attempt to save the splined end.

I also didn’t know the measurements of schedule 40, because every thread on Pirate has guys running .250” wall DOM. So, I was looking at DOM.

Now that I see schedule 40 at 2.5” OD has an ID of 2.469” it’s perfect for these slugged ends, which measure out at around 2 7/16”.
 
94toytruck said:
No problem, I'll let him blow his shit up. Just trying to help him not make a mistake I made.
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There is so much back and forth on the carrier bearings.

Some guys say cast housings aren’t reliable. Some say no to rubber encased bearings. Hard mount, soft mount. Only stainless steel (at the tune of $400+).

When it comes to that bearing I’m going to run that yellow thing, which looks like what Wide Open Designs offers and try it out. If it fails, I’ll re-work it.
 
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