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Hummer H3 Build

06h3

Red Skull Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2020
Member Number
2843
Messages
1,489
Loc
SW Idaho
Hey guys, came over here from pirate. I originally was going to copy and paste everything over but decided not to. I have a build thread going back to day 1 on Hummer4x4offroad.com and going back about 6 years ago when I did a SAS on my H3 on pirate. I’ll just highlight the main points, but for details on certain things you can go back to one of those threads or ask here and I’ll go into detail.

My dad bought a 2006 Hummer H3 brand new back in 2005. Luxury package, no adventure package unfortunately (4:1 t case and rear locker.) It’s drivetrain was a 3.5L 5 cyl/4L60E/BW4493 (2.64:1) IFS with a 7.6in diff up front and a 10 bolt rear

Years later I got his H3 and started hitting dirt roads. I was a black sheep immediately with people outside my typical friends that went on dirt roads with me. Typical comments like Hummers are gay, your mom gave me a hummer, blah blah blah, it didn’t bother me much except when I had one Jeep guy who wouldn’t acknowledge me. Years later I realize he’s one of those idiots who bolted on a bunch of crap and was all about “Jeep life” but really a clueless poser. It kind of motivated me to use an H3.

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So I wheeled it with stock IFS for years and 35s. Broke the typical ifs crap. 1 Tie rod, 1 CV, and was on my 4th front diff when I pulled it for the SAS.

I did do a 4in rancho lift, swapped out the 2.64:1 case for the H3 4:1 t case, added a factory rear locker and for a short time I had added the factory front locker. It was a nice improvement over stock in terms of capability but the drivetrain strength still suffered.

The rear rancho lift springs sucked and the factory hangers are huge so I did a spring over conversion with the factory leafs. That was a huge gain in performance.

Anyways, being tired of breaking shit and just running my first hammers trail (clawhammer) with IFS I was ready for a solid axle up front. I actually picked up a Chevy D44 with 5.13s and a locker on my way home from hammers. I did a 3 link up front, 14in travel shocks, coil springs from a ZJ, custom Crossmember for longer links then left the rear alone with the spring over and threw 5.13s in it. I kept the factory front brakes because the kicked ass and ran tone rings to keep the ABS happy then threw 37s on it.

That D44 lasted a year or so but I had issues with it from the start. I found out the housing was junk. I did find a retubed ford HP44 to Chevy specs, bare housing so I swapped everything over and ran that with some success for a few years on 37s.

I then blew up the 5 cyl and swapped in a 5.3L V8. I lived in so cal at the time so I had to do a CA smog legal engine swap which I did. The H3s did come with 5.3L’s in 08 and up but mine was an 06 and wasn’t plug and play. It wasn’t a horribly difficult swap but not plug and play either.

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This entire time the H3 was my daily driver and weekend wheeler. In 2015 I finished school and then in 2016 I got a job that had a company car so that’s when I stopped daily driving it. Around this time I was hitting Hammer trails as much as possible. Around that time I put RCVs up front with the ford HP44 and swapped in an Eaton HO72 rear axle and ran 40s. I did that for about a year but changes happened for Ultimate Adventure.

I always wanted to go on Ultimate Adventure, it was a dream of mine since the beginning and I felt I finally had a chance. So I applied in 2017 and I got into the dirty dozen. They were concerned about the D44, 40s and a V8 powering a heavier rig. I told them I had a 1 ton axle I could swap in before UA. Well they called back and said I’m in! I now had less then a month to do a cage. Which was done by my buddy and I had to not only swap in this 1 ton axle but put it together which happened to be a D70 centersection, Chevy 60 outers and Chevy shafts. So those few weeks were a THRASH but we got it done, drove to UA (so cal to AZ) then ran UA, drove back to so cal, then the next weekend from so cal to the rubicon, I logged 3k miles in a few weeks on a rig with 40s, it’s what I had dreamed to be able to do.

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Early 2018 I moved to Nor Cal for work and I ended up getting to work on the Hummer in a garage for the first time, until that point all modifications were done in a driveway and learning as I went along. Only rear change I did early 2018 was mini boat sides. They weren’t even really boat sides but I cut out the pinch seam, closed it all back up and built heavy beefy sliders that gained me quite a bit more clearance.

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I got invited back to UA as the returning reader for 2018. It started in Maine and ended in Pennsylvania. I never trailered the H3 before but it was 3k miles away and I had a wedding the day after UA so I had to fly out. I drove the H3 about 350 miles from Nor cal to so cal, met up with him so we could use his truck and I found a POS 8 lug dual axle trailer we had to fix up and drove across country!

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That UA was a blast and opened me up to a whole different type of wheeling, hit the gas hard early and don’t stop, I struggled with it but it was a learning experience. We logged about 1k total miles on UA, I took off for the wedding, he drove back to so cal. Then I drove the H3 350 miles back up to Nor cal.

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After that UA the rig needed some love, I bent some frame side motor mounts, changed a bunch of bushings, Johnny joints, new shocks and springs, I did a high clearance Crossmember, clocked the factory H3 4:1 t case and then drove from Nor cal to so cal for Christmas, then went to sand hollow with my friends, then stopped back at my parents house in so cal then drove back up north. It was a little over 2k miles in a couple weeks. 20 min from home I had a weird knocking noise. I chipped a piston on my 5.3

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At this point My fiancé and I knew we were going to move again for work and I was traveling a lot so I picked up a 6.2L on eBay, had a weekend or two to swap it in, add some wires for VVT, gingerly drive it 10 miles to a tuner and get it tuned. From there I then drove to KOH and pre ran the first 90 or so miles of the race course. It was a blast!

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We ended up moving to Meridian, Idaho and its been great. At this point I was tired of the lack of uptravel and coil springs. So after we got settled in I ripped out the coil spring setup and went to 14in travel fox 2.5in DSC coilovers and air bumps. The Hummer now does so much better in desert whoops then it ever has. I actually think with outboarding the coilovers as much as possible for stability and less uptravel it actually worked better in the rocks with the old setup but for overall performance this is 100% better. I also ditched the H3 4:1 t case for an NP205 doubler during this time. The chain case was just not holding up anymore.

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So where am I at now? Well the current setup is

6.2L from an 08 Escalade/ 4L60E from an 08 H3 alpha, NP205 doubler, D70 front to Chevy 60 specs Selectable locker, Eaton HO72 with a Detroit locker, 5.14 gears.

3 link up front, 14in 2.5 fox coilovers, air bumps, rear spring over with factory leafs, crappy bilsteins and light racing air bumps.

Hybrid cage, part exo part internal, finally did a storage system in the back for longer wheeling trips. Premier power welder, have a set of regular full doors and then half doors I can bash up on.

It has done its job very well. It ain’t a buggy doing buggy stuff but I think it does well for a big SUV that can drive 800 miles to the trail and 800 miles home.

What’s next?
I’d like a 6L80E and link the rear, I think linking the rear can be a game changer if I can do the geometry right. The 6L80E is just another thing to further it’s on road comfort and ease of driving.

Since moving to Idaho I have learned that the trails are TIGHT. Much tighter then hammer trails, and everyone I have run with are in smaller rigs with 39-42in stickies. Making my 40 in DOT tires not so big anymore. I believe a TJ on 37s or a Toyota on 37s is an equivalent setup to me on 40s due to my bigger rig and that’s what all my friends ran. I think 43s will help a lot with the people I have run with here and the trails I’m doing. I need to think of ways to make the rig act smaller and more nimble.

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I totally get that at the end of the day the guys I’m running with are either buggies or juggies and my H3 won’t ever be that and I won’t cut this into a “huggy.” If I ever wanted a Hummer Buggy id do that with another H3 not this one but with that said watching Stephen Watson of Offroad design wheel his big Chevys he makes a big rig work so damn well and behave like a smaller lighter rig even though it isn’t and I think that’s the goal. I’m happy with what it can do but I’m ready to take it to the next level when funds allow.
 
Nice to see your build over here! It is really cool to see the progression of your rig :smokin:

It is interesting that it sounds like they were on the fence about having you along for the Ultimate adventure with the Dana 44. Out of curiosity, did you ever have any issues with the Dana 44 with the RCVs?
 
Nice to see your build over here! It is really cool to see the progression of your rig :smokin:

It is interesting that it sounds like they were on the fence about having you along for the Ultimate adventure with the Dana 44. Out of curiosity, did you ever have any issues with the Dana 44 with the RCVs?

I didn’t have any issues with the D44 R&P or RCVs I did however have an issue with the D44 Ox locker. The bolts that hold the case half together are tiny and backed out. I have seen this issue happen numerous times with other people. I hope OX fixes it, it doesn’t seem to have that design on every locker but I’ve seen it on a few. When the bolts backed out it did cause a tiny chip in the R&P. Not the R&P’s fault due to abuse. I actually ran it with that chip without issue till I pulled the axle. I still have the axle and would put in a new R&P, ditch the Ox for a grizzly locker and not be hesitant on running 40s with it again. The ford HP44 seems to just take abuse like no other D44 can. I remember watching multiple rigs from 38-40s beat on the Ford HP44 without issue. This is just opinion but my thoughts on front D44s in terms of strength are TJ44, Chevy 44, JK44 with trussing, Ford HP44. RCVs in a LP Chevy 44 will just take out the R&P IMO.

I kind of understand their concern but if someone’s driving style allows a smaller part to live and they have a track record of it living for many years I don’t see why they should let that determine if you go or not. On the other hand, having your rig stout and sorted is very important. It’s a big group and they keep moving. If you break, the group keeps moving, they will leave you with a crony but a big repair can take a day and next thing you know they are 350 miles away from you and you gotta play catch up so having your rig bombproof is probably appealing to them for that reason.
 
Nice! Good to see you here. Glad you started a thread too. Can't wait to see this thing linked in the rear, that will help a bit.

Thanks! It will be a little bit. I need to get started on my F550 build. I’ll start a thread on that soon.
 
watching Stephen Watson of Offroad design wheel his big Chevys he makes a big rig work so damn well and behave like a smaller lighter rig.

Stephens rigs are usually pretty cut up modified for the harder trails. The full size look seems to be removable panels or sacrificial panels that can be easily replaced. H3 looks awesome.
 
Stephens rigs are usually pretty cut up modified for the harder trails. The full size look seems to be removable panels or sacrificial panels that can be easily replaced. H3 looks awesome.

Yeah, that is true, even then I would be hard pressed to believe his rigs are smaller then the H3 except for Wally. Everyone thinks H3's are huge but they are about the size of a JK or FJ80.
 
A little update, not much going on, I took it out for a drive 2 days this week. I have been slowly working on the half doors.

Laying out the cut lines

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I got these doors for free from an H3 that was in a fire, I do plan to paint them nicer but needed to spray it black quickly to get a visual and the charred part threw me off. I had my B pillar bar off and was uneasy on not being symmetrical with the front and back door. A few notes on why I am not symmetrical...

-I kept the front portion of the back door higher then the front portion of the front door so that the end of the front door and start of the rear door were the same height.
-The angle of the back door cut isnt the same as the back portion of the front door because the rear door is so much shorter the arm rest would be useless unless you had the worlds shortest forearm.
-The back portion of the door is lower then the back portion of the front door because I was trying to get the lowest possible height for the best visibility I could get. That's my reasoning, I was unsure of it at first but its growing on me.

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The latch mechanism was charred and destroyed, I ordered up some new ones off of ebay and got those installed. I started skinning the top of the door, still need to finish the 1 door and do the other side. From there paint and a cushion armrest like I did on the front.

I was also asked to participate in Idaho Tuff Truck Challenge. I never intended to race or compete in this H3, it's just a trail rig but they said its more fun then competing. It is a rock course, a short course (dont wanna jump it lol) sand drag race and sled pull. I plan to drive it there like an idiot (1 hour away.) Its on the 26th of Sept. We shall see how that goes.
 
Awesome update! glad you transitioned over. You do you have to have the upsweeps at the middle of the doors? Could you just make it a flat transition? Of is that because of the latch and striker on the front door?
 
Awesome update! glad you transitioned over. You do you have to have the upsweeps at the middle of the doors? Could you just make it a flat transition? Of is that because of the latch and striker on the front door?

Yep, I would go flat if I could but that is as low as I can go for the latch and striker.
 
Well tomorrow is Idaho Tuff Truck! I'm kind of nervous but also excited. The sand drags and sled pull I am not too worried about. The rock course has big rocks but I like rock crawling. The short course has me the most worried. I used to jump the H3, back when it was stock. I haven't gotten air born since the SAS.
 
Got back from Idaho Tuff Truck Challenge around 10pm last night. It was local and only about 50-55 miles from my house one way.

It was a long day and I am tired! I left around 5:30 AM, once there I unpacked my rig to lighten it up as much as possible and we started with the sled pull.

There are 4 events, sled pull, short course, drag race, rock course. 40 rigs total, a 37in tire and under class, 38-43in tire class, 44+. The overall winner is usually 44+ but technically someone could win the overall 44+ class and a smaller class.

So sled pull was first.

I wasn't sure what gear to pick but ended up on doubler box in low, 205 in high, 1st gear. I had it in 1st gear but it ended up shifting into 2nd unfortunately and that really hurt me and it bogged. I had the gear selector in 1st the whole time too. It did end up downshifting back to first and let me pull the sled to the finish. Less then half of the 40 rigs completed a full pull. With the 6.2 and a heavy rig it felt at home. The sled is homebuilt and cool. It starts rolling on 4 tires and after 4 feet it drops and then your dragging it. From what I am told its somewhere around 6-7k lbs, and once it drops you can feel the dead weight.

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If I can do it again next year I think I would run double low and let it shift through 1-2-3 and hold 3rd.

I finished 15th out of 40 on this overall.

Off to the 2nd event, which was definitely my most nerve-racking event was the short course. I used to jump my H3 when it was near stock. I haven't gotten it air born since the SAS back in 2014. I definitely didn't get it airborne per say but I did get 2 tires off the ground like 1 inch, so baby steps, maybe next time I will get all 4 off the ground. I was truly amazed at how some of these guys sent 8k lb rigs in the air and some rigs on leafs weren't soaring!!!

My boring pics.

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Now for the crazy guys

Full size jeep on 44in PBR's. 1 tons and leafs

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an old UA rig, leafs up front, linked out back.

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S10 running a naturally aspirated 600 HP 6.0 with an additional 300 shot of nitrous.

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As you can see I was boring. I finished 28th of 40.

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It is amazing you can send this much weight into the air and not break anything.

From there we went on to the dirt drags.

I made a mistake, it was such a short drag that I should have been in 2.72 but I was in 1.96:1 I still finished decent but a learning experience. The buggy obviously beat me. I dont know if he was running nitrous but I know a lot of these guys were.

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From there it was the final event of the day, the rock course. It is a random order and as the course changes it is left alone. What may be easy now can be difficult later. You go down a rock section, turn then go over a "roller" section which is a bunch of 46in military tire runflats with a telephone poll in between the hole. They are stacked, you gotta hit it hard or you wont make it. Even a rig of 54s got stuck on it if you dont carry momentum. then up the big rock course, then over some AG tires.

the 6 rigs before me were all 44+ in tires and dug big holes! I was in a tough spot.

The big rock section before the big rocks were moved by big rigs lol

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I went down the small rock section with ease.

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Here I am going over the runflats. I had to hit it with some good momentum but made it.

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Here I am at the big rock section

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Ultimately, I timed out, I got so stuck that I couldn't winch forward. Other smaller tire rigs were in a similar boat.

It was a great day and if you aren't a normal competitor but want to have fun I recommend it!

In the end I finished 22nd out of 40 and 7th out of 11 in my class.

Best of all, here I am rolling over 173k driving home in the rig I beat on all day.

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Hummer looks wicked out there!! Some of those dudes went HARD on the jumps!

The hummer looks killer with race numbers on it... just saying..."first Hummer Ever to compete in and finish King of the Hammers- 2022"
 
Hummer looks wicked out there!! Some of those dudes went HARD on the jumps!

The hummer looks killer with race numbers on it... just saying..."first Hummer Ever to compete in and finish King of the Hammers- 2022"

Maybe one day! It would have to be able to turn back into dad mobile though for when I have kids and want to take them on the rubicon.

I was amazed at how these guys launch rigs on leafs and how they launch heavy rigs. It was awesome!
 
Subscribed, finally! Didn't see you started a thread over here.

Your rig is continually an inspiration. ITTC looks awesome and you clearly beat on the rig hard.

​​​​​​​I do have a question actually - because I have a spare set of doors in my backyard. Now that you live somewhere with weather, do you swap between half doors and full doors very often? If so, how do you deal with the wiring harness? Since our trucks aren't too far apart in years I'm guessing the harness connector on your full doors is quite sizeable and I'm trying to figure out how to easily plug and unplug it when swapping doors.
 
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Subscribed, finally! Didn't see you started a thread over here.

Your rig is continually an inspiration. ITTC looks awesome and you clearly beat on the rig hard.

I do have a question actually - because I have a spare set of doors in my backyard. Now that you live somewhere with weather, do you swap between half doors and full doors very often? If so, how do you deal with the wiring harness? Since our trucks aren't too far apart in years I'm guessing the harness connector on your full doors is quite sizeable and I'm trying to figure out how to easily plug and unplug it when swapping doors.

Thanks, I appreciate that! I enjoy watching your rig as well. I envy the storage space lol. Yes, I do switch between doors often and probably switch between doors just as often as I did when I lived in CA. When I first had the half doors I didn't have a garage to keep the Hummer in so half doors were on for wheeling trips and that was about it.

Now they may stay on for a few more days because its in the garage.

The swapping of doors isn't bad. For me it is just a 10mm bolt that attaches the door strut to the door jamb and 2 10mm bolts that keep the door bolted to the hinge and honestly you can ditch the 2 bolts that hold the door to the hinge. The door will stay in the hinge when the door is closed and would only allow itself to come up if you lift the door when the door is open. Its kind of how most jeep guys don't put the little bolts back on their door hinges.

With that said, I totally prefer the half doors for wheeling over no doors or full doors. No doors probably come in 2nd and are fine but sometimes I get worried about the vulnerability of door jambs and rocks. Another thing with no doors is just putting an empty water bottle on the floor means it will probably fall out so that can be a pain. Everything needs to be strapped down. Also anything other then perfectly dry terrain you will get hit with sand, mud, etc. Half doors do a good job protecting you from most things. I gutted the half doors so I have ton of storage space where the window used to slide up and down which is a huge plus and definitely more storage then full doors. Full doors suck for me, and probably suck more for me then you. The windows are TINY on an H3 and it makes seeing things hard. Another plus when ditching full doors is that all 4 doors weigh in at 330 lbs combined. I ditch some weight going with half doors.

Now the down sides to highway driving. Doing long miles on the highway with no doors is miserable, half doors are tolerable and full doors are the best obviously.

No doors suck because you are watching the ground below you at 70+ mph with no protection. anything and everything can fly out. Half doors are ok, ideally I would like to make soft upper doors for my rig like the TJ's have. It wouldn't be as quiet as full doors but at least block the wind, hopefully retain some heat or cool air and cut down on wind noise. I am sure half door uppers would look ugly.

For base camp trips like the hammers driving out with full doors and taking the doors off at camp seems to work well but the lack of doors offroad isn't my favorite. Driving to a trail 200 or less miles away with half doors is fine. 800+ miles does suck if it isn't hot out. 90 degrees or more is tolerable when moving at highway speeds.

I've wheeled with all 3 setups, done highway with all 3 setups and done the full door/no door setup to and from the trail and all have pros and cons.

I think the soft uppers give me the best on the trail and the soft uppers would make it more tolerable enough but still not luxury, or maybe it would be "luxurious" I haven't tried it yet lol.

Lastly, a big positive is that I try and keep my doors somewhat nice. When I run half doors I dont give a shit if I dent them and ruin them. They are easy to hammer out and fix. Your windows seem to have a ton of visibility, but your doors are also larger so I am not sure if you are ever wanting more visibility. If you aren't wanting more visibility, I'd leave the doors alone and if you ever destroy one wheeling you can swap it out with another door. If you are wanting more visibility then maybe you can do half doors but beware of the pros and cons.

It would be cool to make a cut straight across with the window up, box the bottom and top half of the door and have 2 holes on the bottom portion of the door and 2 studs on the top portion of the door and they just pop in and out. Best of both worlds. You would need to ditch the door panels though.
 
I guess I didn't fully get my point across - I definitely will be moving to a half-door setup at some point. You make a lot of good points! I like the idea of having the jambs still protected, especially in the really tight wooded trails we have around here - those rubber seals would get annihilated if they weren't protected. More visibility is the main goal here.

I also like the thought of ditching some weight when installing the half doors - that didn't occur to me before. I'll definitely gut mine like you did to save some weight, though with only two it probably won't be hundreds of pounds. Every little bit counts, though.

To your last point with the pinned components: I know that there are some pretty custom jeeps that do that with the B-pillar so that they can run full convertible (with a cage of course) and still run a hardtop if they know the weather will be crap. I don't think the top portion would ever properly seal again after making such a cut, though. One thing I considered here is doing a lexan window that can screw into place from the inside (at least to prevent thieves of opportunity from stealing stuff and offer some rain protection) and still be removed so I can lean out the door and have better visibility on the trail. Still working out that idea though. It helps that my doors will likely retain the top portion of the window area.

Anyway, the main point of my questions was: how do you easily get the full doors un/plugged into the body harness when removing/reinstalling them. I'm not sure what the wiring harness is like on an 06 Hummer H3, but my truck has a ~3"x3" square plug for each door and it won't simply slide out through the hole in the body - it needs to be unpinned and then removed which is a pain in the ass. I suppose I could try to cut the hole in the body larger or shave the plug down a bit - but was curious if you ran into the same issue and if you solved it a different way. It's especially tight on the driver's side due to the parking brake pedal and the roll cage a-pillar bar being right there.
 
I guess I didn't fully get my point across - I definitely will be moving to a half-door setup at some point. You make a lot of good points! I like the idea of having the jambs still protected, especially in the really tight wooded trails we have around here - those rubber seals would get annihilated if they weren't protected. More visibility is the main goal here.

I also like the thought of ditching some weight when installing the half doors - that didn't occur to me before. I'll definitely gut mine like you did to save some weight, though with only two it probably won't be hundreds of pounds. Every little bit counts, though.

To your last point with the pinned components: I know that there are some pretty custom jeeps that do that with the B-pillar so that they can run full convertible (with a cage of course) and still run a hardtop if they know the weather will be crap. I don't think the top portion would ever properly seal again after making such a cut, though. One thing I considered here is doing a lexan window that can screw into place from the inside (at least to prevent thieves of opportunity from stealing stuff and offer some rain protection) and still be removed so I can lean out the door and have better visibility on the trail. Still working out that idea though. It helps that my doors will likely retain the top portion of the window area.

Anyway, the main point of my questions was: how do you easily get the full doors un/plugged into the body harness when removing/reinstalling them. I'm not sure what the wiring harness is like on an 06 Hummer H3, but my truck has a ~3"x3" square plug for each door and it won't simply slide out through the hole in the body - it needs to be unpinned and then removed which is a pain in the ass. I suppose I could try to cut the hole in the body larger or shave the plug down a bit - but was curious if you ran into the same issue and if you solved it a different way. It's especially tight on the driver's side due to the parking brake pedal and the roll cage a-pillar bar being right there.

I will get videos or pictures of the door removal and the plug setup but it isn't bad. It is a quick disconnect but definitely doesn't sound like the setup you are referring to. Let me get pics or a video and go from there.
 
Sounds good man, I'd appreciate it!

Here is a picture of the wiring harness female plug in the door. (grabbed it off my half door for ease but its functional and the same)

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In the picture below you can see the wiring harness and that gray lever. When you pull the lever down, it locks male plug into the female plug in the picture above. I usually lift the door off the hinges rest the door on my thighs, then unplug the harness.

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In the picture below you can see the strut that I unbolt to get the door off.

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If you look at the bottom of the pic above you can see there is a spot to bolt the door to the hinge so it locks the door on the hinge, since I swap doors quite a bit I leave those off, I figure the door isnt coming off if its closed and pressed up in the door jamb and it hasnt come off yet lol. I know jeep guys leave the hinge bolts off too without issue.

Is your door wiring like mine?
 
Ohhhhh yeah that's WAYYYYYY easier than what I'm dealing with. Unfortunately mine is nothing like yours. My door's wires go directly into the door without a connector and all the way into the cab on the inside of the footwell behind a plastic trim piece.

Maybe I can figure out a way to add a female connector into the doors so it works like yours. That'd be a lot easier.

I wonder if GM anticipated H3 owners removing the doors since it was a quasi-Jeep competitor. I also wonder if the GMT3XX platform is like this across the board or if H3s are special.
 
Ohhhhh yeah that's WAYYYYYY easier than what I'm dealing with. Unfortunately mine is nothing like yours. My door's wires go directly into the door without a connector and all the way into the cab on the inside of the footwell behind a plastic trim piece.

Maybe I can figure out a way to add a female connector into the doors so it works like yours. That'd be a lot easier.

I wonder if GM anticipated H3 owners removing the doors since it was a quasi-Jeep competitor. I also wonder if the GMT3XX platform is like this across the board or if H3s are special.

That is odd! Honestly, I am surprised yours is like that. I thought all doors were easy to get on and off including ease of wiring strictly due to car crashes and body repair. If someone with a stock truck (or car) gets t boned and it's fixable I thought they can swap doors with ease and the real work is fixing the b pillar and rocker panel.
 
I should clarify, it's not impossible to do, you can thread the connector out of the body to remove the door - it's just not a 30 second job - it's probably like 3-5 minutes per side, especially with the cage in the way.
 
An update: I was chasing axle problems for years, from IFS to 1/2 tons to upgraded 1/2 tons but when I went to 1 tons my problems went away so a normal person would be happy and move on with life. I am an idiot, so lets take that reliable drivetrain and put it through more hell so I jumped from 40's to 43's. I may grab another set of beadlocks or put my 40in Cooper STT Pros on the H2 wheels I have laying around but I went with 43/15/17 Mickey Thompson Baja Pro XS (non sticky version since I still drive it to the trail)

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THEY ARE BIG!

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Weight is going up....

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134.7 to 173.8...39.1lb gain per corner

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Fender off to show the space in the front of the wheelwell. I dont think that will be an issue. The issues will probably be chopping that rear tube and possibly near the frame. We will see...

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Ride height clears the front and I think that is where it ends lol

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So now I have lots of trimming to do but it hasn't been started yet.

Took off to go see some dirt roads and some scenic views with another H3. I spent friday night busting my ass to get the 43s on for dirt roads where I dont need even 35's but that's ok, I couldnt wheel in the rocks with 43s before the trimming and I wanted to just get out a little and don't mind any time on the dirt.

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Topping off...

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It has been years since I have just gone out to put around on dirt roads and it was fun. Scenic views and had some optional climbs.

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On the way home we stopped at Napa to get brake fluid, this has been pissing me the fuck off. I have had this rear axle in for about 4.5 years now and its been problem free. About 3 months ago I sheered the brake caliper bolts on the passenger rear caliper on the rubicon. I ziptied it to the leaf spring and drove 500 miles home. I replace the pins and go wheeling locally in the rocks. I sheer the pins again, destroy the caliper as in completely sheer the bolt holes off and this time I bent the caliper mount. I cut it off, weld on a new one and replace the caliper again, now I am on a dirt road and sheer the fucking bracket!!!! What the fuck is going on????? The hub doesnt have any play but under load maybe the hub bearings allow enough play to cock the hub and misalign it with the brakes? I am not sure...has anyone had this issue before?

So I drove it back home and now have a lot of trimming to do along with brake caliper investigation and repair AGAIN.
 
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