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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

FleshEater said:
I’m back to debating on diffs.

I have to buy a high pinion gear set for the front. Wuz is hooking me up with an FJ80 HP front third member. But now I’m wondering if I shouldn’t just run Detroits or a Grizzly front and rear. I could add a driveshaft disconnect later and utilize cutting brakes more.

Currently I’m welded in the rear and Grizzly in the front.

Any input on running front and rear Grizz/Detroit set up? I don’t want to run air lines for an ARB and deal with an air tank or compressor. So that’s currently not an option.

Opening up a can of worms here.
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Did you end up concluding the current grizzly won't swap into the HP?

I do like grizzly front /welded rear for simplicity, but grizzly front and rear will turn better.

If you can't put the current grizzly into the HP 3rd, then may as well run it in the rear.

If you can, then ya, just leave the rear welded and maybe think about a selectable rear down the road after a wheelin season or 2.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Did you end up concluding the current grizzly won't swap into the HP?

I do like grizzly front /welded rear for simplicity, but grizzly front and rear will turn better.

If you can't put the current grizzly into the HP 3rd, then may as well run it in the rear.

If you can, then ya, just leave the rear welded and maybe think about a selectable rear down the road after a wheelin season or 2.
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I think my current plan is to leave the diffs (I can get the Grizzly into the HP 3rd), install a rear driveshaft disconnect with cutting brakes. Using both cutting brakes will still help it front dig.

Future upgrade toss a Grizzly in the rear.

Anyways, no parts, and I was bored. So I hacked together a crappy looking marshmallow on a stick. Quality shifter knobs are just too pricey. :flipoff2:

IMG_4303.jpeg

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FleshEater said:
I think my current plan is to leave the diffs (I can get the Grizzly into the HP 3rd), install a rear driveshaft disconnect with cutting brakes. Using both cutting brakes will still help it front dig.
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Does anyone even make a rear disconnect anymore?


FleshEater said:
Future upgrade toss a Grizzly in the rear.

Anyways, no parts, and I was bored. So I hacked together a crappy looking marshmallow on a stick. Quality shifter knobs are just too pricey. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

I remember years ago a few of use made shift knobs out of aluminum on shitty HF benchtop lathe. Was kinda fun at the time.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Does anyone even make a rear disconnect anymore?




I remember years ago a few of use made shift knobs out of aluminum on shitty HF benchtop lathe. Was kinda fun at the time.
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Trail Tough carries one.

I used the aluminum I bought to slug the rockers. A lathe would be super handy.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I wonder if you bent those shifters way forward it would be easier to shift? Like at almost a 45*?
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I considered that, but they’re not bad to shift now. I use my fingers, and it’s comfy. No idea how hard they shift when loaded up.
 
I use 2 low a lot, either for rear dig or just between obstacles to help the front locker stay unlocked. Its pretty common for it to be hard or basically impossible to shift from 4 to 2 with out rocking it a bit while on an obstacle.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
You're loosing the majority of the benefit of cutting brakes with an auto locker. Personally I wouldn't bother with left-right cutting brakes unless you have a selectable.
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What?.... lol I'm confused, why would you?
 
FleshEater said:
I’m back to debating on diffs.

I have to buy a high pinion gear set for the front. Wuz is hooking me up with an FJ80 HP front third member. But now I’m wondering if I shouldn’t just run Detroits or a Grizzly front and rear. I could add a driveshaft disconnect later and utilize cutting brakes more.

Currently I’m welded in the rear and Grizzly in the front.

Any input on running front and rear Grizz/Detroit set up? I don’t want to run air lines for an ARB and deal with an air tank or compressor. So that’s currently not an option.

Opening up a can of worms here.
Click to expand...
Do grizzly/grizzly. Air lockers in the rear seem to always be plagued with problems.
 
POR said:
Do grizzly/grizzly. Air lockers in the rear seem to always be plagued with problems.
Click to expand...

Could always do an E-locker

tre4x4bc.com

Suzuki E-Locker

The E-Locker is equipped with re-developed gears. The locking depth has been increased from 2mm for the regular air locker products, to 5mm, which fundamentally solves the problems of automatic unlocking or insufficient locking effect found in similar products. The gear adopts a nickel-plated...
tre4x4bc.com tre4x4bc.com
 
POR said:
What?.... lol I'm confused, why would you?
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Because without spider gears you can't overdrive the outside tire. The only thing cutting brakes with an auto locker gets you over a simpler line lock/drift brake is that when you are doing front digs, you can sometimes get one of the rear wheels to freewheel, but usually you just end up dragging the one wheel you're braking if the other side is freewheeling. With a selectable rear, you can use cutting brakes all the time, not just when doing a front dig.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Because without spider gears you can't overdrive the outside tire. The only thing cutting brakes with an auto locker gets you over a simpler line lock/drift brake is that when you are doing front digs, you can sometimes get one of the rear wheels to freewheel, but usually you just end up dragging the one wheel you're braking if the other side is freewheeling. With a selectable rear, you can use cutting brakes all the time, not just when doing a front dig.
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I had a detroit and a spool in the rear of my buggy so I tested both.
The autolocker netted much better front digs so I'd say he's gonna be fine.

I ain't doing an ARB and dealing with the BS associated with that.
 
Bebop said:
I had a detroit and a spool in the rear of my buggy so I tested both.
The autolocker netted much better front digs so I'd say he's gonna be fine.

I ain't doing an ARB and dealing with the BS associated with that.
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I am not saying he won't be fine, just that I personally wouldn't go through the trouble and expense of plumbing in cutting brakes without a selectable rear because you are missing the majority of the benefit. A selectable rear is going to turn better regardless and you might not even need to screw with cutting brakes and digs in places you would with a spool or automatic locker. Add cutting brakes to the mix, and you're going to be able to turn tighter just pulling a cutting brake lever while you turn vs. stopping and taking the rear in and out.

Trust me, I understand the air locker hate, but after running a Zip locker for the last year, it has worked fantastic outside from a bone head mistake during a rushed installation. I am still a fan of electric lockers, it is just a shame Eaton has been putting out such shit designs.
 
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Well Byro’s buddy is hooking me up with a cutting brake handle and Front Range Off Road big brake kit for a steal. So it’s not a whole lot now to plumb them in. Just more bending.

Plus it’s there and done if diff upgrades happen in the future.
 
You guys have a hard time keeping functioning brakes also?

I just find it funny how people think 100 psi air lockers are so hard to keep functional, but have no problem keeping thier 1200psi brakes working....

I get the idea behind just keeping a rig more simple and not using selectable lockers, but they can also be totally reliable. You just don't know the guys running them without issues because they just work.

I know a few guys who've ran them for 20+ years on multiple rigs with little to no issues.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I know a few guys who've ran them for 20+ years on multiple rigs with little to no issues.
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That's me....my only reason for not running them in drag axle cars much anymore (IMO, in 4WS cars it makes sense to run one in the rear just for the maneuverability with twin stick and cutting brakes) now is simplicity and if you're not using the ARB enough b/c the vehicle sits a lot, I do worry about the orings failing due to lack of lubrication which is why I run my vehicles that sit usually weekly or every other week and turn on the air lockers to pressurize the system at the very least.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You guys have a hard time keeping functioning brakes also?

I just find it funny how people think 100 psi air lockers are so hard to keep functional, but have no problem keeping thier 1200psi brakes working....

I get the idea behind just keeping a rig more simple and not using selectable lockers, but they can also be totally reliable. You just don't know the guys running them without issues because they just work.

I know a few guys who've ran them for 20+ years on multiple rigs with little to no issues.
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I handle part supplies for 4 "no budget" race cars for the past 3 years. 30+ combined races together.
Very experienced race teams and mechanics prepping them.

3 started with ARBs. 1 with a spool.
All 3 ended up making ARB seal replacement a prep item in order not to loose the lockers half way through the season.
The 1 with a spool never had a problem.

If ARB (or yukon for that matter) was making a competition 14 bolt 40sp locker that stays locked when the air supply fails, I'd buy 5 right now. (4 for these cars + 1 for me).
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Add cutting brakes to the mix, and you're going to be able to turn tighter just pulling a cutting brake lever while you turn vs. stopping and taking the rear in and out.
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Also tried that, not true.

'84 Bronco II said:
Trust me, I understand the air locker hate, but after running a Zip locker for the last year, it has worked fantastic outside from a bone head mistake during a rushed installation. I am still a fan of electric lockers, it is just a shame Eaton has been putting out such shit designs.
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If they made electric lockers that hold, I'd agree with you. But I've legit seen 2 Dana60 e-lockers that shattered themselves to pieces. Housing cut in half etc.
 
Bebop said:
If ARB (or yukon for that matter) was making a competition 14 bolt 40sp locker that stays locked when the air supply fails, I'd buy 5 right now. (4 for these cars + 1 for me).
Click to expand...

Bebop said:
Also tried that, not true.


If they made electric lockers that hold, I'd agree with you. But I've legit seen 2 Dana60 e-lockers that shattered themselves to pieces. Housing cut in half etc.
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So there's no selectable locker available that holds "locked" when there's a failure in either air supply or electronics?

Has anyone ever used the chillcat e-lockers manual cable conversion? In a world of everyone trying to keep it simple I've always wondered why I haven't seen a setup like this for other differentials besides the Toyota. Prone to pop out or?

www.lceperformance.com

E-Locker Manual Cable Conversion

At Chilkat we are 4WD enthusiasts, problem solvers by design, and enjoy a good challenge in the shop or on the trail. We designed, built, and bench tested our original cable conversion kit: naturally dubbed the E-Racer. The E-Racer replaces the OEM electric actuator.
www.lceperformance.com

Why can't this be done on a Ford 9" elocker or any other e-locker?
 
Wuz-A-zuk said:
So there's no selectable locker available that holds "locked" when there's a failure in either air supply or electronics?
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Dana60 and Ford 9 comp lockers from Yukon and ARB.
Nothing for 14 bolts. I wish.
 
Bebop said:
Dana60 and Ford 9 comp lockers from Yukon and ARB.
Nothing for 14 bolts. I wish.
Click to expand...

I got one of the last Yukon d60 comp lockers AFAIK and was a warranty replacement. Pretty sure they stopped production in them a few years ago now.
 
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