Build 1989 Jeep Cherokee 1 ton swap

This seems better. Just added 1 gallon of coolant.
 

Attachments

  • 72746351517__95E5BD42-F148-493F-BA89-151E06C5A55A.MOV
    1.2 MB
Functional tail light with blinker and reverse. I made a housing you’d expect to come from a house smelling like acetone and MAPP gas because a long time ago (last year) I smashed the stock one. I didn’t want to buy the $350 fabricated ones.


Edit: the turn signal indicator does NOT flash. It is static. Perhaps unwired it incorrectly, or perhaps the light is designed this way. It is an orange color even if the picture doesn’t appear to be.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1472.mov
    29.9 MB
The led doesn't have enough resistance for the flashers to work properly. Long story short, easiest way to do it is to leave the stock bulbs in place (zip tie em out of the way) and wire the LEDs parallel. Some say the LED compatable flasher relay work well but they didn't work for my renix.


1000004205.jpg
 
Thanks. I’ll look into this. I typically don’t use my turn signals so as long as the green arrows on the dash go away I’ll be happy. Leaving it inline would work until the bulb breaks.
 
Someone told me to make things removable so you can fix them. I decided to use disconnects so when I smash this into a rock it’s easier to fix. Maybe this means I won’t smash it up.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1540.jpeg
    IMG_1540.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 64
  • IMG_1541.jpeg
    IMG_1541.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 69
Will Scarlet im pretty sure I need those same things for my daily driver to slow down the fast blinker speed. It would probably work best. If I don’t ever use blinkers in this thing I won’t have to worry about anything besides both blinker lights being on in the dash when I turn the lights on.
 
I didn’t ground my new tail light after wrapping things up enough to drive it. I turned the lights on and blew a fuse. I soldered all the connections, and now it just keeps blowing fuses. The brake light works, but as soon as I turn on the running lights it blows a fuse. Up to 30 amps because it’s what I had. I don’t know what the **** I did but I did something good. Oh and when I soldered everything back together I didn’t have the housing on so I have to untuck this mess AND figure out what I broke to cause me to blow every fuse I put in there.

EDIT: One idea I have is I possibly wired 12 volts straight to ground. I think this might explain blowing every single fuse. Perhaps I didn't pay enough attention to the wires. |

WIRING DIAGRAMS :: 1984 - 1991 :: Jeep Cherokee (XJ) :: Jeep Cherokee :: Online Manual Jeep

jeep-manual.ru jeep-manual.ru



1710798584117.png


I think the dark blue/black wire is ground according to this wiring diagram.

Orange would be driving
Light Blue would be brakes/stop
Gray or Brown would be turn signals maybe.
Brown-T (white stripe?) would be reverse/back up lights


black brown is ground for turn signals AND black blue is ground for everything else?
 
Last edited:
Since I hate electrical so much I chopped up a 90 amp flux core welder and made this. It uses 6 gauge battery cables, a 50 amp anderson plug (probably wrong) and a PWM connector. Since I haven't used it yet and I hate electrical I have convinced my self the 50 amp connector is wrong, and I should have gone with 4 awg and a 175 amp connector.


1710799205116.png




Edit: I need to go over the wiring. I think the bare wires I twisted together are causing a short I can’t see. I blew out two pwm controllers, and tested a third straight to the battery. It works connected straight to the battery, and the wiring seems to match the diagram. All I can think of is the bare wires are touching something as soon as I pull the trigger.
IMG_0320.jpeg


I also tried to check the wiring on the brake light. Unsoldered everything and tested voltage with my last 30 amp fuse. It blew the fuse with no brake light connected. I’m at a total loss right now.


Thick white is (-) from batteries
Thic blue is (+) from batteries
Red and blue coming in from the top are the torch trigger wires.

It feeds wire the correct direction when connected.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1791.JPG
    IMG_1791.JPG
    2.1 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_1825.jpeg
    IMG_1825.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 48
  • IMG_1828.jpeg
    IMG_1828.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 59
  • IMG_1839.jpeg
    IMG_1839.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 55
  • IMG_1848.jpeg
    IMG_1848.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 54
  • IMG_1850.jpeg
    IMG_1850.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 53
  • IMG_0319.jpeg
    IMG_0319.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 47
  • IMG_0318.jpeg
    IMG_0318.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 53
Last edited:
Taped the wires up. It worked for about an inch of welding. I dialed the speed down and the PWM blew up at the next spark.


Also, blew a 30 amp fuse on the brake lights trying to test for voltage. I removed the light to check, and it had a few moments of working then eventually blew up so I shorted something somewhere.
 
Find your shorted wiring? You can always install a head light bulb in the place of the fuse to find the short. That way you don't keep blowing fuses.
 
Chkn said:
Find your shorted wiring? You can always install a head light bulb in the place of the fuse to find the short. That way you don't keep blowing fuses.
Click to expand...
I connected a (+) directly to a (-) on the hatch. It must have been disconnected, and must be something from the factory a previous owner removed. It was melted and pretty obvious.
I could post photos, but I took off the rear inner driver side panels and kept disconnecting things all the way to the fuse panel, made a test light from a light bulb, and then randomly looked at the black (-) and dark blue (+) connected in the tailgate.

Now my reverse lights don’t get a (+) signal when I shift to reverse. Maybe I messed up the Neutral Safety switch.
 
I even removed the switch thinking it was possible destroyed by what I did.

Soldered the connections and hid my soldering job as best I could.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1913.jpeg
    IMG_1913.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 63
  • IMG_1914.jpeg
    IMG_1914.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 66
  • IMG_1915.jpeg
    IMG_1915.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 58
  • IMG_1918.jpeg
    IMG_1918.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 61
  • IMG_1919.jpeg
    IMG_1919.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 60
I never fully liked my in cab winch controls and when I swapped over to a Warn XD9000i winch I improved things. I now have a master on/off switch to control power to the winch control button, and I added two USB plugs because in 2024 it is common to use USB for charging cords. This also has a volt meter. This is a benefit because the one in the gauge cluster is known for reading low, and I’ve witnessed it first hand showing about 12 volts when the battery is showing 13.8.

IMG_2231.jpeg


The winch control discussion is in another area. I only grounded one spot on the switch because two wasn’t necessary after more reading about a 6 or 7 pin double pole double throw momentary switch.


theautomobily.com

7 Pin Rocker Switch Wiring Diagram [Explained]

Bought a 7 pin rocker switch but does not know how to wire it. Well, you can find different types of 7 pin rocker switch wiring diagrams here. Let's see.
theautomobily.com theautomobily.com

After all this I had another overheating issue. I drove it up a nearby hill in 60 or 70 degrees then let it idle and it blew radiator fluid everywhere. I’ve no clue why after I’ve added so much fluid to the cooling system it’s probably all fresh.
I still need an overflow tank but that wouldn’t prevent the overheating. Just the mess.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2200.jpeg
    IMG_2200.jpeg
    5.5 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_2189.jpeg
    IMG_2189.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 53
  • IMG_2190.jpeg
    IMG_2190.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 51
  • IMG_2230.jpeg
    IMG_2230.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_2229.jpeg
    IMG_2229.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 56
  • IMG_2214.jpeg
    IMG_2214.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 57
  • IMG_2211.jpeg
    IMG_2211.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 59
Brake leak fixed. The copper washer must not have been crushed enough. I bled both the rears again, took it on the same hill drive, and confirmed the Ruffstuff kit will lock up the rears before the fronts using a Ram 2500 master and WJ booster on a dirt road.

Also, the overheating must have been a bubble in the closed loop cooling system. I didn’t see anything leaking from underneath when I checked after driving it 20 minutes so if it leaks then it must only be when it’s cooled down.

The transfer case has a very tiny leak out of the rear slip yoke housing. Nothing I’m worried about. I just never confirmed where it came from.


Ready to take it out wheeling now unless I get a sudden urge to install the crawl box and buy new driveshafts. I don’t know if I’d need a carrier bearing up front, or to notch the crossmember at full droop.
 
It’s another point of failure, an extra u-joint to buy, and the bearings just don’t seem to last.

We had to run one on a friends build and I’m going to see if I can add a zerk to the bearing somehow to help it live longer.
 
Understood. I don’t know if moving the front yoke back 8” is going to cause a big problem or not. I’m hoping having high pinon stuff makes it LESS of a problem.
 
Went wheeling. It does fine. For some reason I’m always slowest but maybe I need to embrace that much more.
I’d like to have my crawl box it. I think it would help wheel smoother. Everyone looks so graceful whereas I think I look like I’m bashing everything. Even when I’m trying to go slow.

On guy said it looks like my axle favors the passenger side. Must be a long track bar or something. Also the steering box is the ‘not so great one I don’t really like all that much.’
I should put my hydro assist and cooler on. It would probably make wheeling better.

I turned Around at this point. It was about 10pm, I had just a few u joints, and without hydro assist with a fresh memory of ripping the track bar bracket off I wasn’t about to be here all night. To me this is a Saturday trail with friends. Not Friday night with random guys who might leave me if they get bored/tired/run out of beer. Also, I’ve never been night wheeling. I don’t have rock lights. It was on a list of things to do before I quit my job for a better life.

This was the gatekeeper. What you can’t see is the boulder on my passenger side, and the tree on the left requiring some careful sidehilling.
IMG_2606.jpeg
 
How the hell are you wheelin 40s with no hydro? My MJ on 35s was almost impossible to turn with a stock box.


Im guessing you look something like this:flipoff2:
1000005630.jpg
 
Mike Honcho said:
How the hell are you wheelin 40s with no hydro? My MJ on 35s was almost impossible to turn with a stock box.


Im guessing you look something like this:flipoff2:
1000005630.jpg
Click to expand...

Learn how to pick a line instead of trying to buy skill. :flipoff2:

Now you know why the track bar bracket ripped the stiffener off the thin sheet metal frame. It wasn’t JUST the lack of front stiffener. There was some uneducated skill in there.
 
Mike Honcho said:
I don't turn around at the gate keeper. I run the entire trail:flipoff2:

Seriously, do hydro assist. Your gonna need it for the Fordyce trip:smokin:
Click to expand...
Cylinder and chiller are in the garage with the ported box already installed. It’s just been less of a priority, and the lines I bought were for going from the box to the cylinder.


Perhaps if you had kids and a party with a sweet BMX jump you were planning on driving 5-6 hours for in the morning you might turn around at the gate keeper around 10pm. 😘 maybe you just wheel harder and better than me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar Threads

  • Question Question
Jeep Cherokee 4.1 I6 engine
Replies
5
Views
838
Motorcharge
Motorcharge
Jeep WJ 1 Ton swap speedo issue
Replies
13
Views
2K
dav1dmiller
low buck 1 ton swap
Replies
20
Views
4K
JeepinLee
JeepinLee
Jeep TJ 1 ton swap 05+ dana 60 steering conundrum.
Replies
22
Views
1K
Winchested
Winchested
1990 Cherokee XJ Build
10 11 12
Replies
359
Views
24K
Opiebennett
Opiebennett
Top Back Refresh