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What makes a pistol do this?

aron82 said:
Dickweed, your name seems to be fitting.
Three of my friends have had to send their rifles back to Christensen for poor accuracy.
You will get the most life out of A barrel if you do not shoot it very rapidly the heat accelerates wear. Depending on barrel material machining process and coating have a lot more to do with accuracy and longevity than some bs process of shooting 1 round running a patch. Shooting two rounds another patch, ect.
Most of the worn out or failed barrels I have seen are from corrosive ammo and not properly cleaning after it. The next most common failure is from shooting "hot" or very high velocity loads which burn their powder in the barrel and creat more heat and wear than tamer cartridges, but that doesn't have anything to do with barrel break in.
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Yeah, I am an asshole for breaking in my barrels. Did you say the same thing I did about heating barrels? Did I say breaking in a barrel would make it last longer? Did I mention hot or high velocity loads?

You don't agree with me and that is fine but stick to the merit and facts of the original conversation. Don't start throwing in a bunch of other factors that weren't part of the original equation. As previously stated, I am not trying to convert anybody and don't care what you do with your guns. Just simply stating every manufacturer has a break in procedure for a valid reason. And if you want to start shit talking Christensen Arms or any other custom gun maker, you better post up what shit hot rifles you buy or make yourself that you just go out and sling rounds with and get sub-MOA accuracy out of the box. I do believe you stated you have expansive experience in this field.

Don't be a snowflake and resort to name calling or alluding that I am an idiot because you don't agree. You my friend, are beginning to act like Paragon and just shit post.
 
Anytime I get a new gun, pistol or rifle, I clean and lube it before shooting, I think that's the minimum that should be done. I also do break in new rifle barrels and can see my loads speeding up sometimes as much as 100fps, between 100 and 150 rounds. I try not to run my loads too hot, but the lowest SD/ES seem to always come about 90-95% of max, (I know most mfg max loads are conservative). Shooting a 12 round/90 second string of fire on a 110* day is going to put some heat into a barrel and will shorten its life, I got 2700 out of my 6.5CM Krieger barrel before accuracy fell off the cliff, and I expect my 6GT to do about the same, it's just part of the cost of admission.
 
Dickweed, name is definitely fitting at this point.
I have more firearms experience than you ever will. You want to to be an obnoxious know it all and disregard knowledge from myself and the other very knowledgeable forum members then go for it.
Sounds like you just like to see yourself post from the ak thread without actually reading.
There are a ton of ignorant know it alls in the gun world, including you.
I'm done messing up the op's pistol thread. A good clean and lube seems to have gotten him where he needs to be.
 
Roc Doc said:
Anytime I get a new gun, pistol or rifle, I clean and lube it before shooting, I think that's the minimum that should be done. I also do break in new rifle barrels and can see my loads speeding up sometimes as much as 100fps, between 100 and 150 rounds. I try not to run my loads too hot, but the lowest SD/ES seem to always come about 90-95% of max, (I know most mfg max loads are conservative). Shooting a 12 round/90 second string of fire on a 110* day is going to put some heat into a barrel and will shorten its life, I got 2700 out of my 6.5CM Krieger barrel before accuracy fell off the cliff, and I expect my 6GT to do about the same, it's just part of the cost of admission.
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I tend to be attracted to fast accurate calibers and have a particular fondness for Roy Weatherby's rifles. And yes I baby their barrels so they do what I expect them to do when I shoot them. I have a MKIV 257 weatherby mag that is also range certified which means it was a shooter off the line. You can bet your ass I broke in that barrel and never shot more than 3 shot strings with it before I let it cool down. I only use it for long range hunting so it doesn't get shot a lot. 1 shot to confirm zero, cleaned and only shot at an animal until the next season. I have other guns to just sling bullets with and they normally start with AR or AK (new to the collection) or .22's and pistols. I also have several rifles that were "accurized" by a prominent gunsmith to wring out every last every bit that rifle could give.
 
I'd like to know what exactly does one think is happening by doing a break-in routine on a new rifle barrel, vs. just shooting it? A barrel will typically speed up a bit after 100-200 rounds, and a load may need to be tweaked a bit, but on a hunting rifle that probably won't see more than 200 rounds in a life time, what exactly do you think you are breaking in?
 
For the record, my break-in procedure for my latest 6 Creedmoor, I chambered the barrel, pushed a patch through it, screwed and torqued the receiver on, torqued it into the stock, mounted the scope, shot a few rounds to get a zero, shot a few more to get a velocity, shot a few 50 round matches, shot a couple hundred rounds at a buddy's ranch, then cleaned it. Well, I think I cleaned it...
 
300sniper said:
For the record, my break-in procedure for my latest 6 Creedmoor, I chambered the barrel, pushed a patch through it, screwed and torqued the receiver on, torqued it into the stock, mounted the scope, shot a few rounds to get a zero, shot a few more to get a velocity, shot a few 50 round matches, shot a couple hundred rounds at a buddy's ranch, then cleaned it. Well, I think I cleaned it...
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Yeah, I clean mine...whenever. PRS is not the gnats-ass shooting of those BR guys. I would venture to say that any of the rifles that show up at a typical club match are capable of winning in the right hands.
 
300sniper said:
I'd like to know what exactly does one think is happening by doing a break-in routine on a new rifle barrel, vs. just shooting it? A barrel will typically speed up a bit after 100-200 rounds, and a load may need to be tweaked a bit, but on a hunting rifle that probably won't see more than 200 rounds in a life time, what exactly do you think you are breaking in?
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If break in doesn't matter, why do manufacturers and custom gun makers recommend them? Conspiracy to make you run through more ammo? As previously stated, I believe it laps the barrel and seasons the steel without overheating the barrel.

I just do what I have been taught and it works for me. I also weigh each charge, and bullets and casings into groups before I reload them in an effort to get consistency. Maybe it may seem to be wasted time but it works for me. I only do this for my shooters that get shot at a distance such as 22-250, 204, 220 Swift, 221 Fireball, 257 Wby etc... I also have a Walmart 300 Wby Mag that will consistently knock down Ram and Pig silhouettes at 1,000yds. I did have the barrel and action cryogenically relieved though so maybe that is cheating. Is cryo a must do? No, but it sure as hell helps the life and accuracy of a fast shooting barrel.

I think confidence is an important factor of long range shooting. Confidence in your equipment and yourself. I just like to know that when I put the crosshairs on my target, it is game over.

I also own a few 6.5 CM's. A short barrel Weatherby that would probably shoot forever without being cleaned and Kimber that will start slinging bullets around the 5th or 6th shot. It has only been out twice now so I may lap the barrel after I borescope it and see how it does then.
 
So
If after said 150-200 ish rounds velocity goes up, does this indicate anything to those naysayers:flipoff2:
Of course it REALLY means the chronograph needs replacement:stirthepot:
 
Clb said:
So
If after said 150-200 ish rounds velocity goes up, does this indicate anything to those naysayers:flipoff2:
Of course it REALLY means the chronograph needs replacement:stirthepot:
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It's going to do what it's going to do, regardless if you do some break-in voodoo or just shoot it. To say you can't zero or do load development until it is broken in is absolutely absurd.
 
Yessir
I just love the drama of the 2 schools of development :flipoff2:

Remember this one?

New engine breakin, brand new car.
If you want to race it run it hard.
If you want milestones of distance baby it.

Now with 100k valve adjustment :lmao: I dunno

The op asked what caused it?
We went to ibb:lmao:.

One of ya's need to make an
"Offishul" IBB BICKERING thread:flipoff2:

Op any updates?
 
I always thought the break-in period was so they could ay you didn't follow it correctly when it doesn't work. :confused:

On a car it sorta makes sense as you might have some wear, debris, or lube from the assembly that would end up in the oil. But that would be covered in the first 10 or 100 hours of use and a an oil change.

Gear require a break in as they have to surfaces that are meshing but it's also a low time period and a oil flush is all that's maybe needed. Unsure if anyone even does that anymore.

Brakes can have bed it periods for optimal performance. But again probably seldom done.
 
Wow this thread took a turn!

Hopefully I will have time tonight to tear it down, and look. Not even all that concerned about it. Just hadnt seen a gun peel rounds outta the mag like that before.... For a plastic gun, I kinda like it. Might actually hold on to this one for a while. I doubt if I will even swap out the trigger.

As to the barrel break in....I think its a bunch of B.S.
 
DICKWEED said:
If break in doesn't matter, why do manufacturers and custom gun makers recommend them? Conspiracy to make you run through more ammo? As previously stated, I believe it laps the barrel and seasons the steel without overheating the barrel.
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The original barrel break-in myth came from a barrel maker who got tired of people asking him what they should do with their new barrel, so he came up with the ridiculous shoot, clean, shoot, clean, shoot, clean, in snake-oil-ish increments and also he figured while people were improperly and obsessively over cleaning their barrels then he would get to sell more of them as they wore them out pre-maturely.

Its easier to fool someone than to convince them that they have been fooled.
 
Steve300xcw said:
Just hadnt seen a gun peel rounds outta the mag like that before....
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I wanna say it's short stroking, just dragging the round outta the mag with the bolt face halfass caught in the extractor groove.
stovepiping is same shit, not enough slide velocity generally

Lots of american made 9x19 is loaded like .380 it seems.
try some wolf/wpa/tcw/tulammo 115 gr cheap shit next time, I've found it to be loaded way hotter than remington or winchester 9x19 (without going to +p loadings)
 
One of the few things that I "believe" require a break-in period are ridiculously high lift flat tappet cams pushing on ridiculously high pressure valve springs. And that is like a twenty minute procedure (I have seen rounded lobes). When I raced MX/SX there was a break-in procedure outlined in the manual for the bike. Actual break-in was dump in some 115 octane/HIGH quality synthetic 2-stroke oil and then beat on it like it owed you money...

I have never "broke-in" a barrel nor do I know what that even means. I remember a while ago someone posted up somewhere about dipping the actual bullet in some magical powder and then shooting. I thought it was good for a chuckle...
 
FrankenToy said:
One of the few things that I "believe" require a break-in period are ridiculously high lift flat tappet cams pushing on ridiculously high pressure valve springs. And that is like a twenty minute procedure (I have seen rounded lobes). When I raced MX/SX there was a break-in procedure outlined in the manual for the bike. Actual break-in was dump in some 115 octane/HIGH quality synthetic 2-stroke oil and then beat on it like it owed you money...

I have never "broke-in" a barrel nor do I know what that even means. I remember a while ago someone posted up somewhere about dipping the actual bullet in some magical powder and then shooting. I thought it was good for a chuckle...
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Or you could get the David Tubb magic bullets. :laughing: 224 FinalFinish + TMS Complete Care ProPack
 
Are we talking about high precision competition rifles or ccw pistols here?

I have a few hundred rounds threw my sig 365xl with absolutely nothing done to it and no malfunctions. I should probably clean it, but we'll see :laughing:
 
aron82 said:
If you have to soak your bcg in oil for it to work, then something is wrong.

Barrel break in is also a myth. You should clean any firearm before using it.
I have had and shot a ton of ar type rifles and never had to soak the bolt in oil.
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I like breaking in ARs wet with oil, too.
 
aron82 said:
If you have to soak your bcg in oil for it to work, then something is wrong.
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I dunno man, they just seem to run a little better when they're juicy. Especially when real fouled from a few thousand rounds, you just dunk the bolt head in your drain pan to about cam pin depth then drop it back in there.

I've had one lock up tight with the bolt about halfway back forward because the CLP had evaporated and the cam pin decided to grab the aluminum upper when it was picking up a round from the mag. I wanna say that was an actual surplus NOS A1 upper, too, so it had good anodizing and all.

when it is actually cold out, excessive lube does gum the shit up though
 
I can’t say for the M&P’s, but my shield45 has a ramp surface on the bottom of the slide that looks like they cut it in steps instead of tapering it. I’ve noticed that it chews on the top of the cartridge in the mag and have been tempted to stone it down smooth, but it runs fine and has never malfunctioned so I leave it alone.
 
[486] said:
I dunno man, they just seem to run a little better when they're juicy. Especially when real fouled from a few thousand rounds, you just dunk the bolt head in your drain pan to about cam pin depth then drop it back in there.

I've had one lock up tight with the bolt about halfway back forward because the CLP had evaporated and the cam pin decided to grab the aluminum upper when it was picking up a round from the mag. I wanna say that was an actual surplus NOS A1 upper, too, so it had good anodizing and all.

when it is actually cold out, excessive lube does gum the shit up though
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As you probably know, CLP is shit.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Are we talking about high precision competition rifles or ccw pistols here?

I have a few hundred rounds threw my sig 365xl with absolutely nothing done to it and no malfunctions. I should probably clean it, but we'll see :laughing:
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You somehow expected this to stay on topic? :laughing:
 
Roc Doc said:
As you probably know, CLP is shit.
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oh, yeah, anything that evaporates to totally dry isn't really doing much, see also: wd-40

I've just been using ATF for a while now.
Used to use motor oil and a grease-gun tube of white lithium grease, but then I learned about what happens to those when it is 10F outside and switched to the ATF
 
[486] said:
oh, yeah, anything that evaporates to totally dry isn't really doing much, see also: wd-40

I've just been using ATF for a while now.
Used to use motor oil and a grease-gun tube of white lithium grease, but then I learned about what happens to those when it is 10F outside and switched to the ATF
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WD40 is mostly kerosene, so it's much more of a solvent than a lube. I figured that out when I was about 10 and needed to lube the chain on my bike. I like Lucas grease on my bolt lugs, and Spartan for my AR's and pistols. Certainly there are lots of good options, but CLP is not one of them.
 
Roc Doc said:
I like Lucas grease on my bolt lugs, and Spartan for my AR's and pistols.
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if you're using grease, just use whatever you've got in your grease guns. (like you'd use for greasing equipment) You'll never notice a difference.
 
[486] said:
if you're using grease, just use whatever you've got in your grease guns. (like you'd use for greasing equipment) You'll never notice a difference.
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I have a tube of Lucas I got at SHOT maybe 5 years ago as a sample...I probably have 95% of it left.

Edit; It's like a 1oz tube.
 
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