CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Both!You mean on the pedal? Or the brakes actually quit working?
Approx. 80+%~ pressure is gone.
After about 3-5sec brake pressure returns.
Both!You mean on the pedal? Or the brakes actually quit working?
nOOB academic questions:Guessing he's loosing vacuum assist for some reason.
I am assuming that he is dead heading the pump and bogging the engine down.
Dead head? Making the pump build maximum pressure and no or low flow. The result would be trying to turn off the engine by overloading it at idle.What's that?🤔
nOOB academic questions:
1) What would happen if I pulled the brake booster vacuum tube and plug the connection at the vacuum tree?
2) How would the brake work/feel with no vacuum assist?
After seeing the vacuum line going to your throttlebody, I would suggest checking all of your vacuum lines to be sure they're not leaking. You'll likely find that there is more of them to be to be replaced.I've discovered a phenomenon after installing the Saginaw PS pump:
When I do tight/near-locked continuous turns or many turns (like backing in a trailer), I completely lose brake pressure for several seconds.
After several seconds I regain full brake pressure.
When I'm driving around doing normal turns; everything is good.
It's when I do tight turns or a series of tight turns that I lose brake pressure.
nOOB question:
What the flyin' fug?!!
You don't want to do this as you'll lose most of your braking power.nOOB academic questions:
1) What would happen if I pulled the brake booster vacuum tube and plug the connection at the vacuum tree?
2) How would the brake work/feel with no vacuum assist?
No. All it would do is make it run slightly shitty because the air is not passing the MAF and not being metered.nOOB academic question:
If I drilled a .25" hole in the rubber intake tube; could/would it affect vacuum pressure?
Ok.No. All it would do is make it run slightly shitty because the air is not passing the MAF and not being metered.
That statement makes me want to make sure you understand vacuum is only created on the engine side of the throttle blade. Anything in front of it will have no vacuum.Ok.
The reason for the query is;
Where the two rubber tubes connect to the throttle body, is mangled/torn/worn and shows signs of leakage.
Ah; good point.That statement makes me want to make sure you understand vacuum is only created on the engine side of the throttle blade. Anything in front of it will have no vacuum.
For like 130 bucks just gonna replace it.i dont get why folks keep buying turbo pedestals.
It takes 30 mins, tap and a 1/4" brass pipe plug to delete a stock pedestal.
I haven't had my '99.5 7.3 PS since 2010; so I'm out of date on its' tech.i dont get why folks keep buying turbo pedestals.
It takes 30 mins, tap and a 1/4" brass pipe plug to delete a stock pedestal.
What's wrong with the current one?For like 130 bucks just gonna replace it.
Deleting the leaky EBPV actuator rod and butterfly. You can convert your factory pieces for little cost vs spending $200 on non ebpv parts from china (van application). It doesn't take very long if you have the tap and pipe plug ready to go. Im typically a time is money type guy, but the 4 trucks I've done over the years I just have chosen this route to put more $ towards other goodies.I haven't had my '99.5 7.3 PS since 2010; so I'm out of date on its' tech.
Please expand/explain your two points.
Deleting the leaky EBPV actuator rod and butterfly. You can convert your factory pieces for little cost vs spending $200 on non ebpv parts from china (van application). It doesn't take very long if you have the tap and pipe plug ready to go. Im typically a time is money type guy, but the 4 trucks I've done over the years I just have chosen this route to put more $ towards other goodies.
These pictures are 94-97 turbo but same thing applies to 99-03.
How do you like it?Installed the Oz omega tune on my 2018 5.0.
Also actuator rod in pedestal assembly. Look at rod coming out of pedestal in first photo. Remove the snap ring and plate and pull out from the back once you remove/cut off the piece that attaches to the butterfly. Only the bottom hole needs plugged. There is a core plug that fits this but this time everywhere was out of stock so I just cut piece of shaft and welded.So you simply remove the butterfly and plug the holes?
What does the butterfly do?Also actuator rod in pedestal assembly. Look at rod coming out of pedestal in first photo. Remove the snap ring and plate and pull out from the back once you remove/cut off the piece that attaches to the butterfly. Only the bottom hole needs plugged. There is a core plug that fits this but this time everywhere was out of stock so I just cut piece of shaft and welded.
I have heard is keeps the oil pressure up but am not sure. I can message Osborne and ask.How do you like it?
Do you happen to know if it turns off the bs computer controlled oil pressure reduction at hot idle and subsequent vct issues?
.
I'm going to guess my '99.5 had one.Parameters of Exhaust Back Pressure - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Parameters of Exhaust Back Pressure - I have a 1999.5 7.3 power-stroke. Can anyone tell me what conditions must be met in order for the Power Control Module to activate the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve. When the truck is first started in cold weather, it...www.ford-trucks.com
Some people do offer tunes to use as an exhaust brake.
I have the turbo out since it decided to piss oil out of the orings. I have already dropped coin on a new front bumper, banks intercooler and Marty's efuel just this year. whats another 130ish more. LOLWhat's wrong with the current one?
Got pics of the efuel setup?I have the turbo out since it decided to piss oil out of the orings. I have already dropped coin on a new front bumper, banks intercooler and Marty's efuel just this year. whats another 130ish more. LOL
Thats good news. I looked into the tuning a bit before I sold my 19' f150 lemon for many reasons. It was on its third VCT solenoid in 58k miles.Levigarrett76
The response from Oz
”Oil pressure can’t be raised via tuning. Oil pressure is a product of the oil pump and engine RPM. What can be done via tuning is adjusting how the oil pressure control solenoid works, and not allowing it to bleed off as much pressure like it does on the stock tune, which is something we do in our tunes”
So it looks like it keeps higher oil pressure at idle. I read that it does that somewhere else as well.
I knew what you meant. Ken Osbourne probably deals with retards regularly enough that he needs to ne extra clear.Thats good news. I looked into the tuning a bit before I sold my 19' f150 lemon for many reasons. It was on its third VCT solenoid in 58k miles.
I guess my wording was confusing, thanks for sharing with us.