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What did you do for your ford today?

nOOB question:
What should I use on the threads of the bolts for water pump and timing cover?
Anti-seize?

Because I found way too many loose bolts I'm going to use Nord-Lock wedge locking washers.
Thoughts?
Anti seize, Lots of it, all over the bolt and the holes of the timing cover.
I've never had those bolts loosen, really the only way would be a bent or out of balance fan.
 
Death wheel is entertaining when it grabs. No longer feeding 2 3"intake tubes with 2 1" straws and a field of holes


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Pressure washed an inch of mud that was caked on to my F350 from the current spring thaw/freeze/mud fun of living in the woods on a dirt road, and swapped out my winters for the Factory aluminum wheels and all seasons. Not impressed with the tread depth of my stock Good year tires that came on the truck, and having only been ran maybe a total of 9 months so far and only a small portion of the 25k miles on the truck. My General grabber winters, with studs have more tread and they are softer tire and have spent 2/3 of the time on the truck vs the All season good years.
 
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Tracked a hot no start down to a flattened and stiff oring at the hpop to branch line union on the 6.0. Dummy plugs and standpipes going in tomorrow.

Just had an hpop put in 4 years ago....looks like they didn't reseal a damn thing, just slapped it back together. :homer:
Did you have a dealership or a private mechanic shop do the work last time?


"A man's got to know his limitations."- Harry Callahan
Regarding your makeshift worktable;
If I attempted that; I would accidently launch every item on said makeshift worktable into orbit!:laughing::homer:

I use my HMMWV trailer, that's stationed 6ft away from the workstation, as my worktable.
I'm a bull in a China shop...:homer:

Trailer/worktable on the left:
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Yesterday I rebuilt the heater and got it put in the 67 Bronco. Need to find the switch and controls and get it all hooked up.

Found the rear inline fuel filter leaking from a loose clamp. Tightening that solved the weird problems with dying coming off of choke and coming to a stop after cruising.

I STILL have the stumble under light load at 2200 RPM or so but I had a revelation: it could be the Pertronix Ignitor unit that came with the engine when I bought it. I had to replace the Pertronix Coil that came with the engine which could indicate the condition of the unit itself. Maybe the previous owner of the engine left the key in “on” without the truck running for too long and damaged the unit. Got a new one coming tonight. I hope that solves it because the carb rebuild changed nothing.
 
Yesterday I rebuilt the heater and got it put in the 67 Bronco. Need to find the switch and controls and get it all hooked up.

Found the rear inline fuel filter leaking from a loose clamp. Tightening that solved the weird problems with dying coming off of choke and coming to a stop after cruising.

I STILL have the stumble under light load at 2200 RPM or so but I had a revelation: it could be the Pertronix Ignitor unit that came with the engine when I bought it. I had to replace the Pertronix Coil that came with the engine which could indicate the condition of the unit itself. Maybe the previous owner of the engine left the key in “on” without the truck running for too long and damaged the unit. Got a new one coming tonight. I hope that solves it because the carb rebuild changed nothing.

Funny I have a 59, 430 Bird w/pertronix and the same issue. Again, full carb rebuild and "carb" electric fuel pump by tank, have not fixed it.
 
Did you have a dealership or a private mechanic shop do the work last time?


"A man's got to know his limitations."- Harry Callahan
Regarding your makeshift worktable;
If I attempted that; I would accidently launch every item on said makeshift worktable into orbit!:laughing::homer:

I use my HMMWV trailer, that's stationed 6ft away from the workstation, as my worktable.
I'm a bull in a China shop...:homer:

Trailer/worktable on the left:
1000001972.jpg
A private "diesel performance" shop.

The same one that left the glow plug controller unplugged after doing injectors.

Also found that the turbo pedestal had 2 bolts just chilling in the valley and the other two were less than finger tight.
 
A private "diesel performance" shop.

The same one that left the glow plug controller unplugged after doing injectors.

Also found that the turbo pedestal had 2 bolts just chilling in the valley and the other two were less than finger tight.

Bedsheets + flammable liquid + O'dark hundred = __________
 
I bought the next project wheeler.
05 explorer sport trac 4wd. Heated electric leather seats, remote fob, decent stereo. Needs a transmission.
I have also gathered a complete 5.0 v8 explorer for the engine and misc parts, a zf5 sbf pattern, a set of steel beadlocks and 08 f350 diffs that are being geared and locked in the next month or so. Also a set of 42” iroks.

Going to get the engine and tranny swapped and running, then move onto suspension and diffs.

I still haven’t decided whether to use modified factory arms for a 3 link or do a 4 link. Going to depend on cash availability probably. If I do the 4 link it will get coil overs right away. Modified 3 link will get coils and separate shocks.

Rear will probably remain leaf for now, unless I fall into a bucket of cash and enthusiasm. :laughing:

This is being built as primarily a snow wheeler with an annual rock trip to Moab or sand hollow. The gf and I are getting older so I’m going to build it as low as possible so I don’t have to put electric steps on it:laughing:
Edited to add pic.
 

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I bought the next project wheeler.
05 explorer sport trac 4wd. Heated electric leather seats, remote fob, decent stereo. Needs a transmission.
I have also gathered a complete 5.0 v8 explorer for the engine and misc parts, a zf5 sbf pattern, a set of steel beadlocks and 08 f350 diffs that are being geared and locked in the next month or so. Also a set of 42” iroks.

Going to get the engine and tranny swapped and running, then move onto suspension and diffs.

I still haven’t decided whether to use modified factory arms for a 3 link or do a 4 link. Going to depend on cash availability probably. If I do the 4 link it will get coil overs right away. Modified 3 link will get coils and separate shocks.

Rear will probably remain leaf for now, unless I fall into a bucket of cash and enthusiasm. :laughing:

This is being built as primarily a snow wheeler with an annual rock trip to Moab or sand hollow. The gf and I are getting older so I’m going to build it as low as possible so I don’t have to put electric steps on it:laughing:
Edited to add pic.

You going to start a build thread on it?:grinpimp:
 
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