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Tuesday question: marine exhaust manifold.

Amazon had four cometic MLS head gaskets left in stock in my size. I ordered one, because I4.

Someone is gonna get a screaming deal when the algorithm realizes they have a single in stock of an item sold in pairs and reduces price accordingly. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Amazon had four cometic MLS head gaskets left in stock in my size. I ordered one, because I4.

Someone is gonna get a screaming deal when the algorithm realizes they have a single in stock of an item sold in pairs and reduces price accordingly. :laughing:
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Buy 3, then when the price drops buy the other one and return the 3
 
2nd Ring gaps are 36, 37, 37, 38 (thou) in that order.

IDK if you can see but I've been writing the cylinder and the gap on all the rings so far.

attachment(130).jpg


Lbhsbz said:
Buy 3, then when the price drops buy the other one and return the 3
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That's a lot of effort to save $20 when there's a decent chance the supplier will restock before the price drops. Sure I could return them anyway but still.
 
arse_sidewards said:
2nd Ring gaps are 36, 37, 37, 38 (thou) in that order.

IDK if you can see but I've been writing the cylinder and the gap on all the rings so far.

attachment(130).jpg



That's a lot of effort to save $20 when there's a decent chance the supplier will restock before the price drops. Sure I could return them anyway but still.
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I'd still do a poor mans girdle on that block (salt/epoxy). The advantage of this over the off the shelf aluminum pieces is that it doesn't move the tops of the cylinders around. I can't really think of a downside.
 
I really don't wanna fuck with it. I'm not going for higher power or harder use than the stock application. This engine's head gasket problems come from pinging and lifting the head leading to gasket failure not from cylinders moving around at high RPM. And the failure mode is the water jacket to lifter sealing area, not combustion gas leaking into the water jacket. Between flattening the head and block to the extent the factory never could, an aluminum head (no more differential expansion rates and less propensity for detonation) and an MLS head gasket (better tolerance of the head lifting and movement in general) I should be good fine. That's more solutions than get thrown at most head gasket problems.

3/3 of my cores had milkshake in the crank case. 2/3 of my cores had the weep hole for the water pump plugged (which WILL push coolant into the crankcase since the water pump is driven off the cam).
 
Got the pistons in. For some reason the rods are tight to the crank when I snug the bolts. I guess I have to take them off and actually measure them. They're all equally tight so I'm thinking it's probably a bearing issue rather than caps being wrong.

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87manche said:
man those are some goofy pistons.
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one of the sets of valve reliefs is rather redundant since it is no longer a v-config engine, but...

arse_sidewards said:
Got the pistons in. For some reason the rods are tight to the crank when I snug the bolts. I guess I have to take them off and actually measure them. They're all equally tight so I'm thinking it's probably a bearing issue rather than caps being wrong.
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just tighten them to proper bearing clearance and then tack the nuts on :flipoff2:
 
Still haven't measured the connecting rods to figure out what the problem is. Made some clearance in the bell-housing so the starter nose fits. Only got it tacked up with the brazing rod. I'm waiting on the real ni-55 in the mail.

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M92PV4U said:
I saw that, but is your starter mounting in the upper left?
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Yeah. It's specific to this engine. I knew I'd have to deal with it.

Still doesn't explain WTF is going on with that 2:00 bolt hole on the bell though.
 
Learn how to braze with oxy/acetylene and return the nickel rod.
 
M92PV4U said:
What transmission are you going with?
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That will be a later part of this thread.

Twankie said:
Learn how to braze with oxy/acetylene and return the nickel rod.
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If I wanted to braze I could use the brazing electrodes I tacked it with and be done with this already. The nickel rod is less stupid proof but if done right the results should be stronger. The shape of this joint really doesn't lend itself well to brazing anyway.
 
Your “brazing electrodes” are not what I’m talking about.

You obviously suck at welding so you probably wont get the strength results you expect with the cast rod. The cast rod is going to make the metal extremely hard.

Braze with a torch and bronze filler
 
Twankie said:
Your “brazing electrodes” are not what I’m talking about.

You obviously suck at welding so you probably wont get the strength results you expect with the cast rod. The cast rod is going to make the metal extremely hard.

Braze with a torch and bronze filler
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:lmao::lmao::lmao:

Stop projecting. I'm not gonna pull some yokel farmer move like burning in a mulit-pass weld in one go with no preheat.

It's not hard to get good results with the nickel rod. It just takes some give-a-fucks.

[486] said:
this
borax is flux

but you know assman is too much of a pussy to own an oxy-fuel torch :flipoff2:
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I own one. Somewhere. Which tells you how much I use it. My O2 tank has been empty for years.
 
arse_sidewards said:
:lmao::lmao::lmao:

Stop projecting. I'm not gonna pull some yokel farmer move like burning in a mulit-pass weld in one go with no preheat.

It's not hard to get good results with the nickel rod. It just takes some give-a-fucks.


I own one. Somewhere. Which tells you how much I use it. My O2 tank has been empty for years.
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it's just a dust cover over the starter hole, you could go ahead and rivet some sheet metal into place and be fine :flipoff2:
 
Make a weld on some cast iron with that rod and send it through your mill. Report back with your results
 
Provience said:
it's just a dust cover over the starter hole, you could go ahead and rivet some sheet metal into place and be fine :flipoff2:
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The missing bolt deserves something substantial.

Yeah would probably be fine with 5/6 bolts but still...
 
arse_sidewards said:
The missing bolt deserves something substantial.

Yeah would probably be fine with 5/6 bolts but still...
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I was reading as you were doing this to cover up the clearance for the starter snout, not to make a mounting hole for the misaligned 2 o clock bolt.

5 bolts will be plenty for the amount of stress and power this will put out. however, if you are running a bolt through it, brass and lower heat will make for a more vibration and shock resistant repair.

though, it'll be fine either way. have at it, there is no wrong way forward :beer:
 
Twankie said:
None. I’m saying the rod makes cast extremely hard and borderline unmachinable. Op is arguing the nickel rod is stronger..
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A carbide end mill is gonna laugh at either.

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What this graphic doesn't tell you is that NI99 runs like a normal electrode whereas NI55 needs the full set of tricks (pre and post heat, hammer peening, etc) thrown at it but for the effort you get a much stronger result.

Provience said:
I was reading as you were doing this to cover up the clearance for the starter snout, not to make a mounting hole for the misaligned 2 o clock bolt.
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I'm doing both those things. I didn't touch the bolt hole yet.

Maybe I'll build up a boss and machine a hole in it just to prove a point.
 
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