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Tuesday question: marine exhaust manifold.

I spent the extra $15 on a genuine Cloyes chain.

Still didn't fit great on the crank sprocket. I think they size these on the small side with the expectation that if you're buying a chain its because yours wore out and your sprockets are a few thou under to match.

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After applying amounts of force one shouldn't need to I was able to get it on.

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And it has enough slack that I can deflect it if I push hard with my thumb so I'm gonna call that good enough.

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How do you guys think I did on the timing marks? They don't look 100% perfect but they look tons closer than a full tooth either way would so I think it's fine.
 
Jesus fuck I forgot how much I hate shopping for aftermarket valve springs.
 
Exhaust spring installed height is 2 or thereabouts. Intake is the same.

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Valve to valve interference requires a hair over .750 of lift. So valve will have met piston long before that can happen.

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Jesus fuck I still hate shopping for valve springs. It's like unless I wanna spend $100 on retainers and $100 on valves I can't put parts together that fit.

Fuck it. I'm gonna turn down the ID of some junkyard retainers so that I can use a $40 set of LS ".600 lift" valve springs.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Exhaust spring installed height is 2 or thereabouts. Intake is the same.

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Valve to valve interference requires a hair over .750 of lift. So valve will have met piston long before that can happen.

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Also, unless you're running one of those 3/4 race cams....I don't see the overlap being such that both valves will ever be 3/4" off the seat at the same time.
 
Lbhsbz said:
Also, unless you're running one of those 3/4 race cams....I don't see the overlap being such that both valves will ever be 3/4" off the seat at the same time.
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don't worry, he's got this:
arse_sidewards said:
Jesus fucking christ. If you're going to sell a line of valve spring retainers why not make them that fit your fucking valve spring.

I want to give you my money but I can't do that if you can't be bothered to build parts that actually fucking fit together better than a hotdog down a hallway.

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Took apart my two oil pumps to find the less used one. Answer was obvious.

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Used the fancy oil pump aliment tool. Frankly a distributor would have worked but I saw this on eBay a year ago for like $10 so why not.

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Whoever electro penciled this must have done it after the last time they used it because it caused interference in the bore.

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Installed pickup with new O-ring. Pump to block just got aviation form-a-gasket. Probably could have got away with nothing but whatever.

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JB welded up the cam and slapped some stainless speedi-sleeves over where the seals ride. Always amazes me how easily the lip of the sleeve comes off when hit lightly with a screwdriver yet it doesn't come off when I hit the thing way harder the whole way around to install it.

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One of the guys on HAMB who's also building these offered me a deal on springs and retainers which showed up in the mail today so I got that done.

The 1.25" OD beehive springs are so dainty. They look like Subaru parts compared to all the Ford 300 and 460 stuff I have kicking around. :laughing:

They're 125lb @ 1.750. My installed height is 1.875. Rocker ratio is 1.8 so I think the spring has enough leverage over the push-rod and lifter for that to be fine despite being very much on the low side even for a stock revving engine.

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So when I spray galvanize this head gasket how long do I let it tack up?

Edit: expert says let it dry but don't let it 'cure'. I'm going to do nothing because I have a new gasket that still has the OEM silicone on it.
 
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Spacers installed. Random hardware store washers reamed to 37/64ths. Heads torqued to 130 ft*lb

This un-gates so much more important shit, like making sure my cheap-ass headers fit.
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Got my shitty header on with a little help from the blow torch and the hammer. Thank god I bought them when I did. Stainless prices have gone crazy and all the cheap $100 sets of eBay headers have disappeared. Not sure I like the corrosion potential of having the stud stick out an extra 1/2 but whatever...

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Rocker arm geometry with the stock ~8.620 push-rods the base circle checks out so I just ordered a set of hardened 8.650 push-rods (because that's what they made that fit my guide-plates).

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Got started on the transmission tailhousing. Gotta make this fit a married transfer case. OD of the machines part now fits inside the pipe I'm gonna use. Only took like 3hr.

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Aaaaaand back to this stupid project.

Pump impeller didn't want to clear once I deleted the gaskets in favor of RTV.

Spent $30 on Send Cut Send to solve that problem. CAD file attached for posterity.

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Kept going on the tailhousing. Not gonna weld the transfer case end on yet because I don't know exactly what length it'll wind up being.


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Also picked up a pair of stud girdles for about half price. Only wound up costing me $30 after I sold the other one to someone else building one of these engines for less than half the cost of the cheapest girdle on the market.

Of course now my valve covers don't fit so I need to either spend $$$ on a tall one or find a pair of steel ones I can weld up. :shaking:

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CarterKraft said:
I think I might semi-permanently glue the spacer to the valve cover, possible zero leak deal.
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if I did a spacer that's what I'd do.

87manche said:
just send cut send you a spacer. only downside is two gaskets.
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I priced out a block plate and it was ~$100. I assume spacers would be about the same because similar thickness and overall dimensions. I can get a pair of spacers for $130.

Tall valve covers are ~$100 and I can probably go 50-50 with someone on a pair.

I kinda like the idea of welding up a set because it's a very "classic hot rod/shitbox" thing to do and because I can then use my preferred oil filler neck (80s-90s Ford). However I don't like the idea of spending $50 on a pair of steel valve covers to weld up and the junkyards near me don't have any 460s right now...

I'll probably just ignore the problem for now. :laughing:
 
I feel like I'm chasing my tail with this indicator.

No handles were touched between these videos and in one it's riding around 8 plus or minus half a tick (0.01mm each) and in the other it's riding between 7 and 8. You can even see a jump as I go from twisting the spindle between left and right in one of the videos.

In any case, hopefully it's good enough to bore my harmonic balancer to the right size because it's what I'm going with. :laughing:


 
arse_sidewards said:
I feel like I'm chasing my tail with this indicator.

No handles were touched between these videos and in one it's riding around 8 plus or minus half a tick (0.01mm each) and in the other it's riding between 7 and 8. You can even see a jump as I go from twisting the spindle between left and right in one of the videos.
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Eh, 4 tenths could be from your paws putting heat into the collet chuck while you were fucking with it.

Note: Coaxial indicators are not too spendy - fuck chasing an indicator around with a mirror or your head / phone / camera, and dialing in + locking it down w/ constant feedback is a schweet luxury.

arse_sidewards said:
In any case, hopefully it's good enough to bore my harmonic balancer to the right size because it's what I'm going with. :laughing:
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You'll likely beat factory runout tolerances, fuknrunnit.
What's your max expected RPM?
 
ExWrench said:
Note: Coaxial indicators are not too spendy - fuck chasing an indicator around with a mirror or your head / phone / camera, and dialing in + locking it down w/ constant feedback is a schweet luxury.
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I'll look into that.
ExWrench said:
What's your max expected RPM?
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Somewhere in the 7s. So like 2/3 of what the fancy pants Ford Motorsport damper I'm about to modify is good to. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
I'll look into that.
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Just make sure you're at a low RPM setting before turning on the spindle.

I watched a ~6k RPM spindle start w/ a coax. installed & it doesn't end well :laughing:

EDIT: you can hand-spin the spindle to read a coax., but that's like . . . work :flipoff2:
 
Craigslist or FBMP used BBF valve covers bet you can buy a set of tall ones for next to nothing !
 
arse_sidewards said:
I feel like I'm chasing my tail with this indicator.

No handles were touched between these videos and in one it's riding around 8 plus or minus half a tick (0.01mm each) and in the other it's riding between 7 and 8. You can even see a jump as I go from twisting the spindle between left and right in one of the videos.

In any case, hopefully it's good enough to bore my harmonic balancer to the right size because it's what I'm going with. :laughing:


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Just turn up a slug on the lathe with with one end that fits in that balancer and the other end that fits in a 3/4" collet (turn both diameters in one fixturing) ...throw the slug in the collet and move the table around till it fits, then lock 'er down.
 
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