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Tuesday question: marine exhaust manifold.

Did you buy a engine gasket kit? They usually come with a new spring for them.
 
I used gear oil last time and just spun it over with no fuel or spark until I had oil pressure + 20 seconds. Seemed to work fine
 
Did you buy a engine gasket kit? They usually come with a new spring for them.
No I don't have one and it doesn't come with one anyway. The availible Mahle gasket kit is a waste of money. They basically charge you Modular V10 gasket kit money for a handful of the 460 gaskets you could get cheaply anywhere and a big sheet of gasket material.

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Anyone else I would say get a new oil pump. You, just run it. This motor is just dying for nitrous.
 
I've never swapped in a new pump and gotten more oil pressure out of the deal.

well, once, but that was a siezed pump that had twisted off a drive shaft... don't think that counts
 
Got the crank in. Still haven't sealed and torqued #5 because I don't have a solution for the sealing strips yet.

55ft*lb seems light for 1/2 hardware but it's what the manual says.

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bit excessive on the grease, but it'll prolly be fine
next time, don't pack the oil channels full because all of it has to be forced out through the bearing clearance before the bearing will have a proper oil film
 
I couldn't think of a good way to get water based degreaser totally out of the piston to pin joint so I wound up taking the ultrasonic cleaner outside and using gasoline. :laughing:

Lots of carbon in the ring areas. Hopefully it gets loose enough that I can just use a toothbrush. Tops got lightly wire wheeled to clean up the carbon.

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The ultrasonic cleaner wound up just spreading the rust everywhere but the gasoline cut the oil real well so it was easy to clean off. Ring grooves cleaned up real well. Carbon just flaked off.

Remember how I said I didn't have a solution for sealing the #5 main yet? Well after 2hr in warm agitated gasoline the OEM 1980s sealing strips felt like new. I installed them with a dash of RTV for good measure. They're almost 1/4" too tall now but that's an easy fix with a razor blade :laughing:

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Remember how I said I didn't have a solution for sealing the #5 main yet? Well after 2hr in warm agitated gasoline the OEM 1980s sealing strips felt like new. I installed them with a dash of RTV for good measure. They're almost 1/4" too tall now but that's an easy fix with a razor blade :laughing:
I don't know that I'd trust them not to shrink back when they get hot enough to evaporate the solvent back out
 
So, next question: head bolts.

OEM head bolts are ~4.25 long with 1-1/2 threaded. The aftermarket head is 4" thick on one side and 3-1/4 thick on the other side. The block is threaded 2"+ deep (except where the dowel pins go ~1/2" into the block).

So this means that my OEM head bolts are ~1/2" short on the low side and 1-3/4 short on the high side, more if I want to use hardened washers (which I should because aluminum).

So this begs the question, what application has 9/16 head bolts that are 6"+ long.


I don't know that I'd trust them not to shrink back when they get hot enough to evaporate the solvent back out
Replacement is $30 (and comes with a $6 rear main). I'll risk it. :laughing:

This engine won't go in for months so I have time to see what happens.
 

I get the feeling I can cut the cost at least in half if I find an application that isn't green.
 

I get the feeling I can cut the cost at least in half if I find an application that isn't green.
I couldn't find good descriptions, but ford diesel I-6s have 9/16 bolts from searching google...
 
What ring gap should I run?

Tables seem to vary widely. My application is "wide open for a couple minutes straight"

I think I'm gonna shoot for .07-08 per inch of bore (i.e. 0.030"-0.035")


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My application is "wide open for a couple minutes straight"
open deck block says "you'd best be running a little itty bitty carburetor"
I've been running around .007 (inch per inch) gap and .0013 (inch per inch) on piston/wall on street motors for a while, it really ain't terrible, you do get more blowby but...
 
Top ring gaps are 0.031", 0.030", 0.032" and 0.029" front to back.

I'm seeing conflicting information regarding the gap on the 2nd ring. Some sources say more. Some sources say slightly less. Seems like more gap is the modern way of doing things. Since the 2nd ring already sees less heat I'm gonna shoot for the same and the effective gap when running should be larger.

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open deck block says "you'd best be running a little itty bitty carburetor"
I'm going to be doing literally exactly what Mercrury intended to be done with the thing so should be fine. Especially since it's 2022 and off the shelf MLS head gaskets are a thing. I'm going to be running a 2100 clone. These originally came with Holley 2bbl and 4bbl carbs.
I've been running around .007 (inch per inch) gap and .0013 (inch per inch) on piston/wall on street motors for a while,
Turbocharged applications, correct?

it really ain't terrible, you do get more blowby but...
Yeah that's kind of what I'm thinking. This is an engine for me, not someone who wants an appliance car and will change the oil every 20k.
 
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