What's new

Tuesday question: marine exhaust manifold.

If anyone has some slick tip for cleaning an engine block other than the usual soap + pressure washer now would be great because that's what I'm doing tomorrow.
 
You're gonna' blow through a hunner't bucks of abrasive & $200 of elbow grease to avoid having that mu'fugger decked :laughing:
Try ~$30 and I have enough left for another couple engines.

Part of being a cheapskate is that I don't grossly overpay for shit. :flipoff2:


you've been wasting your time since before the 100 grit picture
srs, it don't gotta be shiny, just reasonably flat
get you one of them fel-pro permatorque MLS gaskets they're making for 460s nowadays
Everything I know about MLS gaskets from working on Subarus says they really like smoothness.

Also I'm pretty sure only Cometic makes an MLS
 
Everything I know about MLS gaskets from working on Subarus says they really like smoothness.
4x 9/16" bolts per cylinder don't give a fuck
iirc spec on those is like 140 ft/lb for the stock bolts, prolly do 200 with ARPs or socket head cap screws
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
If anyone has some slick tip for cleaning an engine block other than the usual soap + pressure washer now would be great because that's what I'm doing tomorrow.
At my old shop we had a hose bib for hot and cold water. Turn up the water heater, pressure wash with soap and scalding hot water.
 
At my old shop we had a hose bib for hot and cold water. Turn up the water heater, pressure wash with soap and scalding hot water.
I have similar plans
crappy gas water heater placed out in the yard fed off a hose bib, plop a 100lb tank next to it
doesn't even matter if it leaks a little
placed so the runoff from washing stuff goes in the ditch out to the road because then it goes away from the well
 
If anyone has some slick tip for cleaning an engine block other than the usual soap + pressure washer now would be great because that's what I'm doing tomorrow.

Oh and I freed up stuck piston rings on my stove because I'm not whipped like some of you. :flipoff2:

What's the hold up, Big Daddy?

maxresdefault.jpg
 
Hosed it down with degreaser, hooked the garden hose up to the water heater and sent it. Took two rounds but came out great.
attachment(71).jpg


The WD40 really brings out the cross-hatch. And the dull beaver they used to carve out the taper. :laughing:

attachment(72).jpg

attachment(73).jpg

attachment(74).jpg


And #4 the special one. :laughing:
attachment(75).jpg


What's the hold up, Big Daddy?
The fact that I don't own a dishwasher. If I did I would have already ran it through a couple times already. I did make the girlfriend help me move the stand inside for what it's worth :flipoff2:
 
Looks like I mixed up the connecting rod caps when I stored the parts. Is there anything special to getting them matched or can I just measure with snap gauges until I find pairings that gets the hole within spec?
 
Looks like I mixed up the connecting rod caps when I stored the parts. Is there anything special to getting them matched or can I just measure with snap gauges until I find pairings that gets the hole within spec?
You should be fine if you're matching diameters up-down & side-side.
Make sure there's no step at the cap-rod transition. If in doubt, keep sorting.

A round(-ish) hole within the size tolerance should keep your rod happy :laughing:
 
You should be fine if you're matching diameters up-down & side-side.
Make sure there's no step at the cap-rod transition. If in doubt, keep sorting.

A round(-ish) hole within the size tolerance should keep your rod happy :laughing:
Yeah that's pretty much what I figured.

Internet said to get a magnifying glass and look at tool marks on the rods. I figured there had to be a more objective solution. :laughing:
 
Yeah that's pretty much what I figured.

Internet said to get a magnifying glass and look at tool marks on the rods. I figured there had to be a more objective solution. :laughing:

When you think you've got 'em right...torque them down and check the cap seam again to make sure.
 
Turns out they were all number stamped. :homer:

No wonder I let them get mixed up.

Also turns out I need to buy rod bolts because I apparently lost a bunch of the nuts. :homer:
 
Also, for some reason the connecting rod bolts were fairly magnetic. :confused:

I assume it has something to do with a bunch of steel spinning past them.
 
You springin' for new bearings or reusing "certified pre-owned" . . .

. . . or is casting Babbitt material next up on this ride? :flipoff2:
 
Something was stockpiling food behind the marine coupling in the flywheel. :laughing:

attachment(100).jpg
 
None of the journals passed the fingernail test. Everything from the thrust bearing forward was questionable. Everything behind the thrust bearing was a solid fail.

And of course there's surface rust because this thing sat with milkshake in outside for some unknown number of years.

attachment(104).jpg
attachment(103).jpg
attachment(102).jpg
attachment(101).jpg
 
30min with strips of 600grit and a scrap of nylon webbing later all journals solidly pass the fingernail test.

There's still a little bit of pitting in the center of main #5 but with full groove bearings that doesn't really matter. The oil seal had a hell of a lip on it that I wound up knocking down with the wire wheel before sanding.

attachment(105).jpg
attachment(106).jpg
attachment(107).jpg
attachment(108).jpg
attachment(109).jpg
attachment(110).jpg
attachment(111).jpg
 
So, next question for the class:

Can I get away with using blue marine or red wheel bearing grease as "assembly lube"?
 
So, next question for the class:

Can I get away with using blue marine or red wheel bearing grease as "assembly lube"?
Aren't those both lithium soap based greases? Got any moly grease instead?

Thinking about incompatible bases causing weird booger problems.
 
Aren't those both lithium soap based greases? Got any moly grease instead?

Thinking about incompatible bases causing weird booger problems.
Would that even matter for a single time usage? It's gonna get flushed out with a gallon of 10w30 in pretty short order and then changed within a few hours of operation after that.

it's all I use

"whatever grease happens to be nearby"
Noted.
 
Is it worth getting a new oil pump?

I'm thinking no because oil pumps go like 500k without issue and this one has fuck all hours on it and no abuse other than the whole "pumping milk shake" for the final hour thing.
 
Top Back Refresh