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Trailer Tips, Tricks and things you would change.

I'm likely building a 10k 20' trailer this fall and am seriously considering building it 102" wide. Has anyone regretted going (or not going) full width on a trailer?

I’d go 102” wide again with metal deck if I got another trailer.
 
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Spares mounted under the trailer. Nissan Frontier spare tire carriers are a compact chain design that have two bolt holes. Welded all thread to the winch and ran the all thread through side of trailer and welded a lug nut to it on each side.
 
Spares mounted under the trailer. Nissan Frontier spare tire carriers are a compact chain design that have two bolt holes. Welded all thread to the winch and ran the all thread through side of trailer and welded a lug nut to it on each side.

That's a fucking great idea.
 
Spares mounted under the trailer. Nissan Frontier spare tire carriers are a compact chain design that have two bolt holes. Welded all thread to the winch and ran the all thread through side of trailer and welded a lug nut to it on each side.

That works great until you think about the trailer sitting lower with a flat and on a soft shoulder on the side of the road. I had an incident where I blew both tires on one side. The trailer sat so low that we couldn't even get a bottle jack under the axle. We ended up having to do multiple lifts on the trailer frame and blocking it till we got the axles high enough to get under. I don't think I could have even crawled under to unhook the spare. I carry 2 spares and want them accessible.
 
filedata/fetch?id=278838&d=1611149753 filedata/fetch?id=278837&d=1611149751 filedata/fetch?id=278836&d=1611149750 Spares mounted under the trailer. Nissan Frontier spare tire carriers are a compact chain design that have two bolt holes. Welded all thread to the winch and ran the all thread through side of trailer and welded a lug nut to it on each side.

I need to file this away if I ever go to a wood deck. I drilled 4 holes each through the steel deck for a pair of Tacoma hoists. Then drilled for a hitch pin so the rod is still removable. Bushing in the frame and lug nut welded on the end, so one tool change.

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That works great until you think about the trailer sitting lower with a flat and on a soft shoulder on the side of the road. I had an incident where I blew both tires on one side. The trailer sat so low that we couldn't even get a bottle jack under the axle. We ended up having to do multiple lifts on the trailer frame and blocking it till we got the axles high enough to get under. I don't think I could have even crawled under to unhook the spare. I carry 2 spares and want them accessible.

Then run 1 on each side

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That works great until you think about the trailer sitting lower with a flat and on a soft shoulder on the side of the road. I had an incident where I blew both tires on one side. The trailer sat so low that we couldn't even get a bottle jack under the axle. We ended up having to do multiple lifts on the trailer frame and blocking it till we got the axles high enough to get under. I don't think I could have even crawled under to unhook the spare. I carry 2 spares and want them accessible.

I run a spare on each side. My trailer sits up much higher than a normal steel deck too. I installed 5200 on axles, springs, and went much larger on my tire size.
 
-17.5s\\\\n\\\\nAdjustable coupler just so it\\\\\\\'s easy to replace, adjustment helps too but it\\\\\\\'s a pita.\\\\n\\\\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...h_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20\\\\n\\\\nmounted fold down ramps instead of slid outs\\\\n\\\\nSealed pigtail and junction box. Makes diagnostic much easier and replacement of the pigtail if you rip it, cut it, etc.\\\\n\\\\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...h_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20\\\\n\\\\nBattery box with a charge indicator. Easy to check, easy to replace.\\\\n\\\\nhttps://www.amazon.com/Universal-Po...+top&qid=1615415873&sr=8-5&tag=91812054244-20\\\\n\\\\n10k drop leg, spring return jack. More leverage and not spindly like the 3-5k junk.\\\\n\\\\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...h_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20
 
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Run 1 what on each side? That doesn't address the issue of not being able to get under the trailer to retrieve a spare when it's too low because of 2 flats on one side. If you are talking about spares, I always carry 2 spares on my trailer deck.

I’m not seeing the issue here. You have to jack the trailer up to normal height to get the tires on anyways :homer:
 
I’m not seeing the issue here. You have to jack the trailer up to normal height to get the tires on anyways :homer:

When I hit a pothole and blew both tires on one side the entire trailer was low to the ground. We had to do multiple stages of jacking and blocking the trailer with SOFT GROUND. Crawling under 14,000 pounds sitting on blocks of wood with soft ground is not my idea of a safe thing to do. Dry conditions with hard ground - no problem. But Murphy's law dictates that you will always have trailer problems in shitty conditions.
 
When I hit a pothole and blew both tires on one side the entire trailer was low to the ground. We had to do multiple stages of jacking and blocking the trailer with SOFT GROUND. Crawling under 14,000 pounds sitting on blocks of wood with soft ground is not my idea of a safe thing to do. Dry conditions with hard ground - no problem. But Murphy's law dictates that you will always have trailer problems in shitty conditions.

That sounds like it sucked, but you jacked it up. You could have had tires under the trailer that you retrieved once the trailer was jacked.

I understand you may not have wanted to get under there to get the spares I those conditions. Is that your point?
 
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Buy plenty of trailer to start with. I always weld on plenty of "D" rings so I don't pull the stake pockets off.

I have a 7k trailer and now feel like I should have gone 10k at least:homer:. I also welded 5 D rings along each side and there are still times they are not in the right spot when needed.


Based on past threads on this subject I welded a receiver hitch at the front of the trailer to allow a winch, my tow pig has 1/0 leads to an Anderson plug at both ends for power.
Just bolted a truck bed tool box at the front for storage. Now after reading this I think I will weld on some drop legs at the back to make loading it easier.
 
That sounds like it sucked, but you jacked it up. You could have had tires under the trailer tHt you retrieved once the trailer was jacked.

I understand you may not have wanted to get under there to get the spares I those conditions. Is that your point?

Yes that is my point. Sketchy conditions. Spares up top - easy peasy.

That said, the concept of having the crank down system with the tires under the deck is great. Tires are out of the way and not vulnerable to theft. All good. I was just pointing out one detraction to it. Everything is a trade off.
 

x1000 the last trailer i upgraded i put everything you just listed on it :smokin:

im putting 17.5s oil bath hubs new wiring and deck boards on a horse trailer at the moment

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R4PUZKO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CCYWBS5 10g ground and 10g auxiliary wires :smokin:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OLUYCIQ
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Way.../dp/B07QDQRX7P

horse trailer got this jack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KKR4SH
 
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x1000 the last trailer i upgraded i put everything you just listed on it :smokin:

We have a couple dozen equipment trailers with skids mounted on them that go to sites up and down the West coast, those changes are about the only way I can keep them in service with constant road mileage and operator abuse. That and throwing away the wiring from the factory before anything else, scotchloks are junk.
 
For those with stake pockets and are like me who ended up with dozens of the typical 2" hook type straps - I've been sticking them in the hydro press and squishing the hooks down so they'll fit through the pocket and/or rub rail. I really prefer them to loop around the the pocket so that if they get a little loose they don't just fall off completely.


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I've been running these on the ratchet side for years. Chain is great at the attachment points to take away any possibility of rubbing through on the rails.
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The bonus with those is you can pin them through any link along the chain to make them the perfect length. You can also mount them in the middle of a double hooked chain and make sort of a bridle for tieing down big/weird stuff.



I recently switched to these for my primary straps and I'll use the old hook ones one I need more than the 4 of these I have.

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^^ Those junction boxes are a lifesaver. I think everyone I've shown mine to has gone out and bought one for their trailer.


Link ? I'm literally buying one when you post it !
 
Pro tip: keep a couple of alligator clip test wires handy - you can pop the cover of the j-box and jump the hot to the other terminals to test and troubleshoot lights and brakes.
 
For those with stake pockets and are like me who ended up with dozens of the typical 2" hook type straps - I've been sticking them in the hydro press and squishing the hooks down so they'll fit through the pocket and/or rub rail. I really prefer them to loop around the the pocket so that if they get a little loose they don't just fall off completely.

That's a fucking great idea. I'm going to do that this week.
 
For those with stake pockets and are like me who ended up with dozens of the typical 2" hook type straps - I've been sticking them in the hydro press and squishing the hooks down so they'll fit through the pocket and/or rub rail. I really prefer them to loop around the the pocket so that if they get a little loose they don't just fall off completely.




I've been running these on the ratchet side for years. Chain is great at the attachment points to take away any possibility of rubbing through on the rails.


The bonus with those is you can pin them through any link along the chain to make them the perfect length. You can also mount them in the middle of a double hooked chain and make sort of a bridle for tieing down big/weird stuff.



I recently switched to these for my primary straps and I'll use the old hook ones one I need more than the 4 of these I have.


I've never seen the ratchets with a chain end. I just replaced a batch of straps I bought a year and a half ago because one broke from rubbing through. Fortunately it happened when I was strapping down so no accident happened.

I have some d rings to weld on but I think I'll save them and weld these flat hooks on the corners of the deck for hauling rigs https://www.offroadanonymous.com/pro...tie-down-hook/


I wanted to make some stake pocket drop in d ring mounts but my stake pockets are all fucked and inconsistently sized.
 
I've never seen the ratchets with a chain end. I just replaced a batch of straps I bought a year and a half ago because one broke from rubbing through. Fortunately it happened when I was strapping down so no accident happened.

I have some d rings to weld on but I think I'll save them and weld these flat hooks on the corners of the deck for hauling rigs https://www.offroadanonymous.com/pro...tie-down-hook/


I wanted to make some stake pocket drop in d ring mounts but my stake pockets are all fucked and inconsistently sized.

The chain adapters on the ratchet side will retrofit in to your every day 2" ratchets. Just remove the bolt, drop the old strap/hook and then slide the bolt through the adapter and tighten. The pin that goes through the chain is held on by a hairpin cotter so you can change the length quickly. I discovered those back on PBB when I had a post about straps, tie downs, etc. Those were the perfect solution to what I was doing at the time.

You can get the adapters on ebay - 10 for $35 and then get a bucket of 3/8" chain and extra hooks from HF. Should run you about $12 total per ratchet.

THESE were the best deal I could find on the straps with chain ends. $48 shipped for 4 was by far the cheapest I could find. They'll be my go-to now. I really like being able to loop the chain around the stake pocket or rub rail and not worry about it getting cut on the edge of the trailer.
 
^^ Those junction boxes are a lifesaver. I think everyone I've shown mine to has gone out and bought one for their trailer.

i keep a spare box on hand :laughing:

ive installed 3 of them so far, including one on my truck when i rewired the utility bed/trailer hookup
 
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