ANGELO
Red Numb Skull
best thing I did to my trailer. Led cube Reverse light behind the wheels are almost just as good
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Trailer Tips, Tricks and things you would change.
- Thread starter Dan_Goodwin
- Start date
best thing I did to my trailer. Led cube Reverse light behind the wheels are almost just as good
Muckin_Slusher
****
These threads are awesome. I like when they get 20+ pages long and you can spend a little time going through the whole thing.
Seems this thread has the same intentions as the one I started a while back, which is about 3 pages I think (link in post #22 of this thread).
Can we merge these two threads so all the tech is in the same place?
Seems this thread has the same intentions as the one I started a while back, which is about 3 pages I think (link in post #22 of this thread).
Can we merge these two threads so all the tech is in the same place?
Dan_Goodwin
Red Skull Member
I built a 6.5 x 12' 4" trailer back in 2013 to be my swiss army knife of trailers since I didn't have a need for a car hauler at the time. The added 4" was a mistake but has been really handy when hauling 12' lumber since it doesn't rake across the tailgate and splinter the end. I built this to be the last trailer I'd ever need, so the frame is a 2x3 .120 tube with tandem 3500k axles and brakes on the front, 3/4" expanded metal on the sides and tailgate (and turned it the right way for traction), guarded tail lights and a 2" hitch on the front rail for a winch mount. It also has 9 D rings in the floor and 8 around the top rail. I've modified and added to it over the years to get it to this point.
We smashed more tail lights than I can count on our old trailer, so I originally built light buckets for standard trailer lights. After getting backed into by an Infinity, this happened:
So I built these:
And yes, I ran out of 3" flat stock to finish enclosing the box before I took the picture. The new light buckets have a grommet mount LED stop/tail/turn light and a flush mount LED light for reverse duty. Reverse lights at the rear were great, but didn't allow me to see where my tires were going, so I added 2 more lights at the front corners and guarded them as well. The LEDs at all 4 corners have been probably the single best thing I've done to this trailer.
We smashed more tail lights than I can count on our old trailer, so I originally built light buckets for standard trailer lights. After getting backed into by an Infinity, this happened:
So I built these:
And yes, I ran out of 3" flat stock to finish enclosing the box before I took the picture. The new light buckets have a grommet mount LED stop/tail/turn light and a flush mount LED light for reverse duty. Reverse lights at the rear were great, but didn't allow me to see where my tires were going, so I added 2 more lights at the front corners and guarded them as well. The LEDs at all 4 corners have been probably the single best thing I've done to this trailer.
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Dan_Goodwin
Red Skull Member
The tailgate is built from 1x3 .120 tube and 3/4" raised expanded mesh and its plenty strong but the expanded mesh might as well have been solid going down the interstate and the drag was crazy bad. Since most of the stuff I haul was either stuff I loaded by hand or a SxS, I ditched the tailgate for ramps but I modified the mounts so that the tailgate can still be swapped back on if I ever needed it.
The spare tire needed a home, so when the trailer got a refresh in 2019, I added a crossmember for the tire. It's held in place with a long 1/2" bolt and plate so all that's needed to release it is to turn the bolt until the tire falls. Its a PITA to get back on, but when you have a flat on the side of the road you need to access your spare tire east.... putting the flat tire back is irrelevant.
You can also see in this picture the junction box used to wire the trailer. Its the same unit linked earlier.
Also in the 2019 refresh, fender steps, waterproof junction box and all new wiring, new 2x8 floor and new rear transition were added. The floor is entirely bolt in, so the rear transition piece holds the floor down and gave me a place to mount tie downs.
Not pictured is an added a rear hitch that mostly serves as a mount to hold a 4' extension that pulls out to haul 16'+ lumber. Next on the list is to rebuild the fenders out of tube and diamond plate since these are getting pretty beat up.
The spare tire needed a home, so when the trailer got a refresh in 2019, I added a crossmember for the tire. It's held in place with a long 1/2" bolt and plate so all that's needed to release it is to turn the bolt until the tire falls. Its a PITA to get back on, but when you have a flat on the side of the road you need to access your spare tire east.... putting the flat tire back is irrelevant.
You can also see in this picture the junction box used to wire the trailer. Its the same unit linked earlier.
Also in the 2019 refresh, fender steps, waterproof junction box and all new wiring, new 2x8 floor and new rear transition were added. The floor is entirely bolt in, so the rear transition piece holds the floor down and gave me a place to mount tie downs.
Not pictured is an added a rear hitch that mostly serves as a mount to hold a 4' extension that pulls out to haul 16'+ lumber. Next on the list is to rebuild the fenders out of tube and diamond plate since these are getting pretty beat up.
DirtRoads
Uninformed
It seems obvious but if you do not have a tool box on your trailer for tie down storage, get one. It will change your life.
I wish I had wired for back up lights when I re-wired my trailer last year, that was dumb. Also, 3500# axles have no place in he off road world. Go bigger even if your rig is lightweight.
I wish I had wired for back up lights when I re-wired my trailer last year, that was dumb. Also, 3500# axles have no place in he off road world. Go bigger even if your rig is lightweight.
Wulf
Well-known member
I don't have enough space to add one on the tongue between the front rack and the jack but I'm planning to cut the rack and build a basket for a box so it sits partially on deck and partially floating over the tongue. I have a winch that ideally would be receiver mounted on the trailer rack but it will probably end up hard mounted inside the box with a battery for winching and running deck lights for loading trailer in the dark.
I’m in the same boat, not enough tongue space for a big box and don’t want to use any of the 18’ of deck
Wulf
Well-known member
I don't want to give up deck space for the worst case scenario but with an 18 ft and a habit of only hauling Yotas I have space to give up.
90supra
Red Skull Member
Anyone have any tips on drying out an enclosed trailer? Bought snowmobiles and an enclosed and trying to figure out the best way to deal with melting snow.
aczlan
Good Morning!
From a co-worker who has a pile of sleds: take the sleds out, shovel the trailer out (if needed), then park the sleds in the garage till the snow melts off and dries out.
Otherwise the sleds are liable to freeze to the floor of the trailer.
If your trailer will fit in the garage that will work as well, just open all the doors.
Aaron Z
ANGELO
Red Numb Skull
whats some good spare tire winches i can snag from the junkyard? I had those cheap rv ones on my last trailer and i was not impressed.
Chief Rocka
Red Skull Member
If/when my rv winch breaks, plan to replace it with a sub-$20 HF hand winch.
The current rv winch has a junk 3/8 drive socket welded to the crankshaft... no room to swing the handle and to make it harder for someone to help themselves to my spare.
Curbkrawler
Shitbox Connoisseur
I like the ones found under a Nissan Frontier or Pathfinder. They are a chain winch and very compact.
ParadisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
What about sinking the box into the floor in the front of the box? Or place a small box on the side, right in front of the tires?
I would epoxy paint the floor and maybe even the walls. That would keep the wood most sealed. With ATVs, we would hose out the mud and push broom the water out the back. Then maybe install a fan in to try and blow it dry. In the winter, warm water makes a huge difference for washing it off, as Im sure you know.
bgaidan
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2020
- Member Number
- 2322
- Messages
- 2,943
Any nissan pickup/frontier from '86.5 to now and any xterra will have the same style. I guess pathfinders from '96 and up had the same one too.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
People have been talking about load range E light truck tires instead of trailer tires. Are they the bees knees or are 17.5" trailer wheels/tires the shit everyone says they are?
My trailer needs a new set of wheels and tires. Wheels are rusted along the bead on the inside of the tire (never seen that before) so my options are wide open.
My trailer needs a new set of wheels and tires. Wheels are rusted along the bead on the inside of the tire (never seen that before) so my options are wide open.
Wulf
Well-known member
I swapped from 235/80R16 LR E trailer tires to 235/85R16 LR E General Grabber LT tires on the advice of this forum and they have been great over the last 700 ~ mi.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
Those tires are rated for 3000# each. Good option, but I need at least 3500# per tire, so load range F, which looks like trailer only.
Wulf
Well-known member
Both a possibility, I may build a small enclosure for the winch and battery then a box somewhere else for straps
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Been running the provider 235/85r16 G(4400lb) on my gooseneck. I'd love to go 17.5 Alcoa and 235s for the capacity, but cant justify the cost.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tir...BoCtxMQAvD_BwE
^^ that look right, about $200 a tire?
I found sets or 17.5 wheels with provider tires for $250 each. Thinking that is the ticket if my other option is tires at $200 a piece.
Here's what I found. $1500 shipped. For a set of 5 to my area.
https://trailerpartsunlimited.com/ti...k-wheel-8x6-5/
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TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Damn they went up! I paid $88 shipped each from walmart. Just saw they now say out of stock.
For whatever reason, I've never heard good things about the 215 in the 17.5 flavor.
Wulf
Well-known member
Interesting... I put a pair of 235/80R16 LR E on my trailer last summer and one broke a belt after about 500 mi. It was visibly poking through the tread
I dumped em for the LT Grabber 235/85R16 LR E tires afterwards. I did keep the one "good" provider from the pair as a spare.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Big difference between LRE and 14 ply. If the tire is re-groovable I figured the carcass can take the abuse. I never had luck with truck tires, I could blow out the sidewalls when they scrubbed under weight.
mdan
Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 560
- Messages
- 10
Several years ago I built a purpose built trailer and tried to keep it low and light. Ended up around 1600 lbs for the trailer and my rig sits nearly a foot lower than my previous trailer. Made a noticeable difference towing and slightly better gas mileage.
When I painted it, I poured a lot of sand into the wet paint. It has a consistency similar to 60 grit sandpaper. I no longer have to worry about slipping on the metal surfaces when it is wet. The sand has held up really well everywhere except the drive over fenders.
Added LED lights to the back as well as to the underside of the trailer (like rock lights) and tied them into the reverse lights. Makes backing into the driveway at night a hell of lot easier.
Built a storage box into the tongue for straps.
I thought I added lots of tie down points when I built it. I wish I had added more.
When I painted it, I poured a lot of sand into the wet paint. It has a consistency similar to 60 grit sandpaper. I no longer have to worry about slipping on the metal surfaces when it is wet. The sand has held up really well everywhere except the drive over fenders.
Added LED lights to the back as well as to the underside of the trailer (like rock lights) and tied them into the reverse lights. Makes backing into the driveway at night a hell of lot easier.
Built a storage box into the tongue for straps.
I thought I added lots of tie down points when I built it. I wish I had added more.
bgaidan
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2020
- Member Number
- 2322
- Messages
- 2,943
I've wondered if this would work well. Did you mix the sand with the paint or just sprinkle it on afterwards?
I usually buy a gallon of black rust-oleum at a time. Takes about a half gallon to paint my steel deck hauler. I just dump it on the deck and spread it with a roller. I'll grab a couple rattle cans to do the places I can't easily hit with a roller or brush.
Pic? I've wanted to do this too. I'd have to relocate my jack, but that's easy enough. Did you make it very weatherproof? I've been afraid that it'd just get loaded with water from tire spray when it's raining.
I got a dual compartment box from the trailer dealer (so might be a PJ part). Battery, straps, wood blocks in the rear section. Straps and tools in the front and easy to get to.
No gaskets, but there are slots for a charge cord to run and other wiring holes. Also holes in the bottom to drain. But I’m also in the desert, so I can’t remember ever towing this one in the rain.
Jack was obviously already far enough forward to clear the box, but not the truck tailgate. Makes it easier to reach the drop leg pin.
No gaskets, but there are slots for a charge cord to run and other wiring holes. Also holes in the bottom to drain. But I’m also in the desert, so I can’t remember ever towing this one in the rain.
Jack was obviously already far enough forward to clear the box, but not the truck tailgate. Makes it easier to reach the drop leg pin.