trailer build thoughts

V30crewcab

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I've been planning on building another trailer for a long time, and I've been collecting stuff for it forever. thinking about getting on it soon, and looking for ideas.
Basically, its gonna be a 20ft gooseneck, built out of 7" channel iron, and I want to make it were I can add a 10ft section to the back once in awhile, and the axles will be on a slideable setup so they can move back for that purpose. 8lug axles of course. 99% of the time it will be 20ft, low deck. the 10ft section would come into play if I need to haul 2 cars or something from a long ways off. don't have room for a 30ft trailer here all the time, and 20ft would get used mostly.
I need to draw my ideas out I guess. but I think the 10ft section would have pieces that slide up in the 20ft channel section, and bolt in. also think the back cross section of the 20ft would be removeable for the 10ft to bolt into it.
possibly even running a torque tube down the middle, that ends a couple feet before the 20, and having the 10ft with a extended tube to hook into it to kinda bridge the joint were they meet in a different spot. any thoughts?
the 20 ft section will have two metal pieces about 2 ft wide down either side for tracks or tires, and will help keep it kinda light instead of a full floor.
I'll try to sketch up something tonight.
 
I'm all ears, have thought the same


Though my thinking was the middle would telescope and pin, and maybe the extra deck pieces would come out of the middle of the 20 foot trailer, and become the drive on portion of the 30 ft trailer

20ft solid deck, or 30 ft open center

Though I'd be more looking for 25/35. Build a little trolley under it that the axles ride on that gets moved forward or back


There's been some professionally built trailers with these features, it'd be worth looking for them for inspiration
 
the thinking on the 20ft being the main trailer is it will be strong enough to haul my excavator or bobcat, but when I lengthen it, doesn't quite need to handle as much. maybe two light wheelers, etc. that way there no joint when in the short setup. less weight to remove it rather than make it collapseable a well.
 
Sliding axles are going to add weight, ride height, and complexity. More **** to wear out. I’ve got a float with sliding axles but hardly ever slide them.

I’d do a pin on 10’ section like on a big lowboy. 20’ trailer pins directly to the neck. If you want it 30’ drive the pins out and add the 10’ in between.
 
I'm all ears, have thought the same


Though my thinking was the middle would telescope and pin, and maybe the extra deck pieces would come out of the middle of the 20 foot trailer, and become the drive on portion of the 30 ft trailer

20ft solid deck, or 30 ft open center

Though I'd be more looking for 25/35. Build a little trolley under it that the axles ride on that gets moved forward or back


There's been some professionally built trailers with these features, it'd be worth looking for them for inspiration
That way would be way better than trying to slide axles back. Think of it like a table with a leaf. Trying to slide axles onto a bolt on section sounds like a challenge.
 
Sliding axles are going to add weight, ride height, and complexity. More **** to wear out. I’ve got a float with sliding axles but hardly ever slide them.

I’d do a pin on 10’ section like on a big lowboy. 20’ trailer pins directly to the neck. If you want it 30’ drive the pins out and add the 10’ in between.
its only going to add 1/2" of height. and only the weight of two pieces of angle iron. not the first trailer we've had with adjustable axles. don't plan on sliding them around loaded.
 
This sounds awesome, also a little of a engineering nightmare.

IMO I think I might want to make it slide apart, with the axles in the correct location in the extended length, but when slid together they are correct for the short mode too.

Have some built in flip over treads to to bridge the span. Might be a awesome project to really learn CAD on.
 
I think you'll be happier with two trailers.

But if you absolutely must build something I like carterkraft's suggestion.

Sliding apart also lets you use the tow rig as motive power for the operation so you don't have to **** around pinning something on while it dangles from a forklift or whatever. Maybe have the middle flip outboard so that it's closed center when short and open center when long.

Reconsider the exact lengths and make all the dimensions work out nicely.
 
What about a tilt deck over where a section pulls out forward once it’s tilted and rests on the gooseneck frame? Would be easy to slide out with a winch mounted up there. If you could get 7’ or so on the front I’m sure you could get the rear ramps to pin in place somehow to extend it the other 3-4’, and don’t have to mess with any extra pieces, equipment to set it up, or sliding axles. Spread the two axles out a bit to handle the weight difference. They will scrub a little bit more but I had a triple axle gooseneck you could zero turn with and it wasn’t horrible.

In long mode it would be run with the deck tilted, like one of the arched hotshot car haulers.

IMG_2633.png
 
30 is not all that useful when it only take 24ft to haul 2 cars. I would just build a 24 light as you can.
 
Buddy had one were the tongue of the gooseneck slide 10’. It worked okay, but really not practical. He went with a longer lighter trailer after that one.

IMG_6863.jpeg


If I ever build one, I’m just going to use semi steer axles, but realistically, that’s just to fit in 2 tight places I shouldn’t be putting a trailer like that into anyways.
 
This sounds awesome, also a little of a engineering nightmare.
I know Tennessee has less stringent vehicle inspection laws, but do you still need to have a "homebuilt" trailer inspected initially?

I know that here in Pennsylvania you'd likely have a real hassle getting them to approve your "engineering" on something like that.
 
I know Tennessee has less stringent vehicle inspection laws, but do you still need to have a "homebuilt" trailer inspected initially?

I know that here in Pennsylvania you'd likely have a real hassle getting them to approve your "engineering" on something like that.

Most of the south only wants their tax $ on anything home built. Show receipts for the steel and lights, you’re good to go. If they do inspect it, it’s just a 20’ trailer, you can add the slide out later.
 
no inspection, and no trailer tag.

I knew before I posted this that nobody would think it was a good idea. I'm just gonna build it, and then maybe you'll see what I meant. no biggie, I do stuff all the time nobody thinks will work til its done.

I don't have anywhere to store a 30ft, especially one that'll get used maybe once a year, so not gonna have 2 different trailers. Its not gonna be a slide trailer, as it needs to be as light a possible in the 20ft length, in order to haul my excavator.

I'm not hauling anything that two of would fit on a 25. not happening with 50's cars! 30 might actually be slightly short. my current gooseneck is 20ft and my shortbed crewcab hangs off the back.
 
I've had an idea for a lightweight trailer I could use for hauling bikes, kayaks, and camping gear (maybe a rooftop tent?), but that would also have an expandable tongue to be able to haul lumber and steel for projects (like a dozen 16' boards or a few hundred pounds of 20'~24' steel lengths) that gets sketchy trying to fit in an 8' pickup bed. Like you, I don't have the storage space for every conceivable option I need. So I totally get the idea of something multi-purpose. However, there is a difference between half a ton of weight (max) and a couple vehicles or pieces of equipment. I'd want at least some level of assurance that the "slide" wasn't going to come apart in the middle of transport. Moreso as the weight/value of the load went up. Over the years I've seen enough trailer carnage just from blown tires or hitch failures (mostly due to people not knowing WTF they are doing) to be adding more failure points.

My idea is something along the lines of a scaled down version of a utility pole trailer with some removable racks for either kayaks/bicycles or steel/lumber.
Felling.60903472f27da.png


Holding a straightedge up to the screen of bad zuki's image shows a change of direction at the joint of that slide that gives me pause... I find myself making the statement "everything's fine until it isn't" more and more lately as people explain their ideas to me. It's not just about figuring out how something would work, but also looking at the ways it could fail. Lord knows I've done my share of sketchy things over the decades, but in hindsight I start looking at what could have gone wrong if the stars weren't aligned for me - and thankful things weren't worse when they did go wrong.
 
Holding a straightedge up to the screen of bad zuki's image shows a change of direction at the joint of that slide that gives me pause...
once you had everything strapped down, it wasn’t bad, unloaded it would bounce a lot while extended.

I mean, most ultra heavy load semi trailers have slideable decks. It’s pretty common on the dot side of things.

IMG_8653.webp
 
As I said, it gives me pause - not necessarily that it is a problem, but I'd look at it more closely. The "kink" makes me wonder if there is enough support between the two segments? Is there motion at that kink? Or is it solid? You mention bounce. Does that increase wear? Fatigue? I've seen a lot of things that weren't maintained and "were fine" up until they broke doing the same thing that was done every time before that.

I agree that such things are possible and (as you say) are regularly done. The trailer you show likely has specific tolerances and a calculated "overlap" between the two members and has some inspection interval to make sure everything remains in tolerance. That doesn't necessarily mean that a homebrew setup has been properly engineered and verified.
 
As I said, it gives me pause - not necessarily that it is a problem, but I'd look at it more closely. The "kink" makes me wonder if there is enough support between the two segments? Is there motion at that kink? Or is it solid? You mention bounce. Does that increase wear? Fatigue? I've seen a lot of things that weren't maintained and "were fine" up until they broke doing the same thing that was done every time before that.
It was pinned in place with 2-4 1” pins located (roughly) 4’ inboard of the edge. They had slop, but even in a wreck, I doubt it would seperate. Mainly it didn’t have any adjusters and would flop up and down a bit. It was weird, but it worked.

Biggest thing I remember about it was learning about how it was an open front deck on the sliding bit, at night, after putting my foot down on the bit that should have had floor…. 0/10, would not recommend getting another concussion.

OP, build it, but put some delrin or Uhmw in there to help it slide.
 
It was pinned in place with 2-4 1” pins located (roughly) 4’ inboard of the edge. They had slop, but even in a wreck, I doubt it would seperate. Mainly it didn’t have any adjusters and would flop up and down a bit. It was weird, but it worked.

Biggest thing I remember about it was learning about how it was an open front deck on the sliding bit, at night, after putting my foot down on the bit that should have had floor…. 0/10, would not recommend getting another concussion.

OP, build it, but put some delrin or Uhmw in there to help it slide.

Do you have anymore pics of that, or can you scratch us out a drawing, please?
 
I know Tennessee has less stringent vehicle inspection laws, but do you still need to have a "homebuilt" trailer inspected initially?

I know that here in Pennsylvania you'd likely have a real hassle getting them to approve your "engineering" on something like that.
don't even need tags in TN... so no need to involve gov't at all.
 
Brian @ Front Range did an extending bumper pull many years ago... Not sure if there are pictures still floating around??
 
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