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Toterhome Build Dreams/Reality Check

CarterKraft said:
I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just adding some caution, you are getting on the edge of every parameter.
When you get out there, it gets a little sketchy and it gets really easy to exceed "safe" zones.
And with my family in the back seat is not a good time for me to find out how bad my disillusion is.

With the torsion axles you are smart for trying to get it as flat as possible, the downs side of torsions is they can't load share as well as equalized springs.
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No i really appreciate the input, jokes aside you hit the nail on the head my family is in the back seat. It needs to be safe.

I should only be at max max load 2x a year.

And if its too much


"Honey i have to get a peterbilt, its for the kids" :flipoff2:
 
Dejeeper said:
I was waiting on the blown tire pic as i was scrolling through your pics....and in NM so it all makes sense.
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By Far the worst highways of the drive. It was terrible, couldnt wait to get out of the state. The truck stops were chock full of tweaks and degenerates. And not my kind of degenerates....

CarterKraft said:
Class A is like CHL? Where you could be held to a higher standard cause training?
I have not got mine, I'm yoloing it but I do have a CHL :homer:
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This is the single biggest reason i put mine off for so long. Being held to "you know the law". I wanted plausible deniability for as long as possible. Now I just jump back and forth across the Commercial and Private line. Sometimes the load gets a little undeniable though, fuck em. If i want a custom 40 ton air handler at my property that's my business :flipoff2:
 
Alright, lets get that idea mill working

This configuration is the shortest i can get the two combined with not added parts (ramps/cutting things)

lhc9XSY.jpg



Using my super scientific 4x's laid on edge to farthest point this is 24'8" end to end...... (i measured tire to bumper on the truck and added it to the rear of tire wood, dont worry i didn't forget about that fat ass of hers:grinpimp:)

The back door to the French doors (garage doors) is 23'8" :shaking:

Now there is 2-4" to play with by leaving the doors open, and backing the can-am into the "kitchen" until i hit the slide out. Not enough, but for this game, every inch matters.


The can-am bumper is hitting the front truss on the axle, if i remove the bumper the Ramcharger bumper only has 1ish" until it contacts the shock tower on the can-am.

I looked pretty in depth at loading the can-am into the back of the ramcharger and hit two problems

1. The wheel wells wont let me get in farther than im currently able to drive over, so it would actually be longer even with the angle (i do want to redo the wheel wells anyways but i still doubt ill gain the distance)

2. Because of the height of the truck i would likely contact the belly of the can-am long before gaining overall length



In other good news, the generator is pulling fuel now (bad prime pump), i got my batteries in yesterday, and should be loading the living amenities in it today to hit Sand Mountain Friday. Only bringing the can-am this trip as my 17.5s aren't here yet and i don't need to touch that iron again to know its still hot...
 
I would remove the A-Bar on the ram bumper, back the ram up inside the toyhauler, put ramps so the can-am can drive up over the ram hood.

Done
 
I don't envy this game of Tetris you are playing

I'd try all the configurations you can think of, do what Bebop says and measure, don't rule anything out until you've tried it.
 
Bebop said:
I would remove the A-Bar on the ram bumper, back the ram up inside the toyhauler, put ramps so the can-am can drive up over the ram hood.

Done
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I'm game to try an alternative of this, the front of the garage area has a couch/cabinets that are around 82" I.D so the truck has to be at the back not the front. I'm also not in love with the A on the bumper and have almost taken a sawzall too it multiple times.

I wonder if i could ramp it up onto the hood outside the trailer and then just drive the truck in with the can-am in neutral...

I'm trying to get it under 23'6" outside the trailer so I'm not playing stupid-er games inside the walls of the trailer:grinpimp:

CarterKraft said:
I don't envy this game of Tetris you are playing

I'd try all the configurations you can think of, do what Bebop says and measure, don't rule anything out until you've tried it.
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I really don't want to play the game either friend. 80% of trips are going to be one or the other, but what's life without a little spice? :lmao:
 
Some quick math says if the front end goes up 5' life becomes happy again

I need to shorten 11" overall from the above configuration so just called it a foot

however i see height becoming factor, only have 84" clear to top of door, pretty sure the hood i more than 5' and the tires are 32" on the can-am

1729172840503.png
 
Can the trailer handle the weight of both of those vehicles in there? I thought it was going to be close just with the orange thing.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Can the trailer handle the weight of both of those vehicles in there? I thought it was going to be close just with the orange thing.
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We discussed this keep, it's going to be HEAVY a few times a year :stirthepot:
I was scared just having the RamCharger in it being a "RV" but OP is confident this is "industrial grade" RV and can handle it.
 
75RamRunner said:
Some quick math says if the front end goes up 5' life becomes happy again

I need to shorten 11" overall from the above configuration so just called it a foot

however i see height becoming factor, only have 84" clear to top of door, pretty sure the hood i more than 5' and the tires are 32" on the can-am

1729172840503.png
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Maybe build a simple cantilever arm off the ram charger to lift the ham up over the front.
 
Bebop said:
I would remove the A-Bar on the ram bumper, back the ram up inside the toyhauler, put ramps so the can-am can drive up over the ram hood.

Done
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Agree, have to put rollers on the RC anyway. May as well use baby ones

Then use the 2 43s to help support the ramp.

I wouldn't want the set up pictured. Huge pain to remove all 4 tire inside the trailer. Then you have to figure out how to keep the rotors from getting fucked up, and on top of all that, you have the suspension on the RC moving around and fucking up the hood of the sxs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Agree, have to put rollers on the RC anyway. May as well use baby ones

Then use the 2 43s to help support the ramp.

I wouldn't want the set up pictured. Huge pain to remove all 4 tire inside the trailer. Then you have to figure out how to keep the rotors from getting fucked up, and on top of all that, you have the suspension on the RC moving around and fucking up the hood of the sxs.
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Removing tires inside sxs is gonna bring the super suck
 
CarterKraft said:
We discussed this keep, it's going to be HEAVY a few times a year :stirthepot:
I was scared just having the RamCharger in it being a "RV" but OP is confident this is "industrial grade" RV and can handle it.
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I wanna see a straightedge on the axles and frame rails after he does this, lol.

I'd do ramps. No way I'd want to remove wheels inside the trailer.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I wanna see a straightedge on the axles and frame rails after he does this, lol.

I'd do ramps. No way I'd want to remove wheels inside the trailer.
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I just wanted to know what made these Dune Sports so much better than a Amish RV.
 
Use the winch in one of those big trees back there to lift the sxs up as far as your trailer will allow, can ratchet strap the rear suspension down to gain a little more. Then pull the ramcharger up behind it to see if you can get it to your mark.
Ramps are your only option I think.

Or putting a hitch on the back of the RV and going doubles.
 
CarterKraft said:
I just wanted to know what made these Dune Sports so much better than a Amish RV.
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12" O.C cross members, thicker C channel frame, 8k torsions. I had my 25k 40' diamond C pull up next to it yesterday and rolled under them both and from the bottom, you'd think they're the same trailer. Everyone has their opinion but Diamond Cs are pretty well regarded around these parts as the Gucci shit for deckovers flatbeds. Theyre stout. My previous Momentum toy hauler had thin gauge rails, 24" O.C cross members, 7k slipper spring axles. It was a very nice trailer fit and finish, but it was really a 5th wheel with some space for a toy. Our lifestyle doesn't dictate or really desire the fancy fireplace, hanging lights over and island, or so on in a trailer, so this build fits it better.

Totally understand the skeptism of the idea/load. And it may be perfectly rooted and true. But someone's gotta try :flipoff2:

rockota said:
That’s a dang good looking truck. Chevy mirrors?
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Yessir L5P mirrors from BoostAuto

YotaAtieToo said:
That hilarious, doesn't want the Moose look I guess :laughing:
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I drove one of my friends L5P high country's a few years back and couldn't get over how much better visibility was in the mirrors when not towing. Had to force upgrade the mirrors on my work truck (2020 2500, decided to roll some pipe off the ladder rack and took the mirror clean off when it dropped) and loved them so got them ordered for the personal too. Would never go back. And they integrated flawlessly, literally plug and play

BustedCrank said:
Use the winch in one of those big trees back there to lift the sxs up as far as your trailer will allow, can ratchet strap the rear suspension down to gain a little more. Then pull the ramcharger up behind it to see if you can get it to your mark.
Ramps are your only option I think.

Or putting a hitch on the back of the RV and going doubles.
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I'm agreed with ramps, no tires off inside the trailer (unless strapped to the truck and just pulled in), and the general consensus of the tomfuckery going on with this load.
 
I guess it helps to reference that this is a semi "normal" load for me that i took last night for a fly by night crane set. So thinking of some shenagingns to get both rigs in the trailer doesn't really feel out of the norm but i do understand a lot of what i do doesn't really align with, well anything normal really.

0dk921P.jpg
 
I'm curious about what you do for a living?
 
75RamRunner said:
12" O.C cross members, thicker C channel frame, 8k torsions. I had my 25k 40' diamond C pull up next to it yesterday and rolled under them both and from the bottom, you'd think they're the same trailer. Everyone has their opinion but Diamond Cs are pretty well regarded around these parts as the Gucci shit for deckovers flatbeds. Theyre stout. My previous Momentum toy hauler had thin gauge rails, 24" O.C cross members, 7k slipper spring axles. It was a very nice trailer fit and finish, but it was really a 5th wheel with some space for a toy. Our lifestyle doesn't dictate or really desire the fancy fireplace, hanging lights over and island, or so on in a trailer, so this build fits it better.

Totally understand the skeptism of the idea/load. And it may be perfectly rooted and true. But someone's gotta try :flipoff2:



Yessir L5P mirrors from BoostAuto



I drove one of my friends L5P high country's a few years back and couldn't get over how much better visibility was in the mirrors when not towing. Had to force upgrade the mirrors on my work truck (2020 2500, decided to roll some pipe off the ladder rack and took the mirror clean off when it dropped) and loved them so got them ordered for the personal too. Would never go back. And they integrated flawlessly, literally plug and play
Click to expand...

Interesting.

I have thought that the ram mirrors were not just stupid looking, but functionally suck. Who thought it was a good idea to make a mirror flip 90*? Cool, so now my adjustments are no where close every time I flip them :homer:

The 08+ish gm and ford mirrors are great. I'll probably do the gm mirrors on my 97 eventually.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Interesting.

I have thought that the ram mirrors were not just stupid looking, but functionally suck. Who thought it was a good idea to make a mirror flip 90*? Cool, so now my adjustments are no where close every time I flip them :homer:

The 08+ish gm and ford mirrors are great. I'll probably do the gm mirrors on my 97 eventually.
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It's always made my head spin that Ford largely figured out tow mirrors in 1999, then perfected them in 2008....Meanwhile GM couldn't even get close until 2006 and didn't even bother to not make them level until 2008 on the GMT900's. But then Dodge/Ram can't produce a tow mirror worth a fuck until goddamn 2023.
 
Snowy said:
It's always made my head spin that Ford largely figured out tow mirrors in 1999, then perfected them in 2008....Meanwhile GM couldn't even get close until 2006 and didn't even bother to not make them level until 2008 on the GMT900's. But then Dodge/Ram can't produce a tow mirror worth a fuck until goddamn 2023.
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Same here :laughing:

Even the ~2015 gm mirrors have a blinker IN THE FUCKING MIRROR that just blinds you at night. Dumbest shit ever
 
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