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The TRACTOR thread

[486] said:
I've had solenoid contacts weld multiple times doing this
gets "exciting"
I think the 24v solenoids usually have silver contacts in them

now when I'm doing that, I'll clunk the solenoid and hold it with one wire, then stick the starter wire onto a junky sacrificial terminal
the terminals on the battery don't last long otherwise lol
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I use jumper cables and always be ready to pull the clamps off. The only solenoids I’ve had stick are Cummins 24V starters. I used to have a work truck with 24V jump start station built into it. Made it way easy.
 
JR4X said:
I use jumper cables and always be ready to pull the clamps off. The only solenoids I’ve had stick are Cummins 24V starters. I used to have a work truck with 24V jump start station built into it. Made it way easy.
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oh, I was reconfiguring the two batteries in my truck, lol

pull the starter wire off the main battery and hook it to the positive of the second battery, hook the negative of that battery to the positive of the main battery
then only the starter sees 24v and nothing else, I was kinda worried about it backfeeding through the solenoid wire
you know how the pull in coil is grounded to the M terminal and the hold in coil is grounded to the body, I was figuring that the solenoid would act like a latching relay since the pull in coil would have 24v backfeeding against the 12v on the S terminal but that didn't turn out to be a thing?

I'd charge the battery hooked inline with the starter cable separately with a plug in charger
was gonna hook that battery up to a solar panel but finally ponied up and bought a new starter for it last year
 
[486] said:
oh, I was reconfiguring the two batteries in my truck, lol

pull the starter wire off the main battery and hook it to the positive of the second battery, hook the negative of that battery to the positive of the main battery
then only the starter sees 24v and nothing else, I was kinda worried about it backfeeding through the solenoid wire
you know how the pull in coil is grounded to the M terminal and the hold in coil is grounded to the body, I was figuring that the solenoid would act like a latching relay since the pull in coil would have 24v backfeeding against the 12v on the S terminal but that didn't turn out to be a thing?

I'd charge the battery hooked inline with the starter cable separately with a plug in charger
was gonna hook that battery up to a solar panel but finally ponied up and bought a new starter for it last year
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The only things I’ve ever tried it on are super simple machines. Like my little tractor, Electricity only goes a few places. Starter, glow plugs, headlights. Thats it. If the key is off it can’t back feed but being mechanically injected it still starts. I have remote start buttons to energize the solenoid and use jumper cables from the batteries to the starter only.

At work out compressors are even more simple than that. Our 3306 cats the alternator only exists to charge the batteries for starting it. They’re magneto solid state ignition. Some units don’t have alternators or batteries. Just a starter and jumper cables bolted directly to it.
 
Ok we’re back to the f2000 mower.

Got it reassembled, it runs kinda like shit with a bunch of white smoke and low power. It doesn’t seem to want to rev all the way, but I dont have a point of comparison for this machine. Compression is still good and no more milk shaking.


Fuel filter looks like shit so ordered a new one, but I’ve always thought white smoke was unburned fuel, not lack of.

Right track with fuel filter or looking at injectors/ something else?
 
Xicor said:
Ok we’re back to the f2000 mower.

Got it reassembled, it runs kinda like shit with a bunch of white smoke and low power. It doesn’t seem to want to rev all the way, but I dont have a point of comparison for this machine. Compression is still good and no more milk shaking.


Fuel filter looks like shit so ordered a new one, but I’ve always thought white smoke was unburned fuel, not lack of.

Right track with fuel filter or looking at injectors/ something else?
Click to expand...
White is usually coolant/water.

It would be very black if it was fuel smoke.
 
Xicor said:
Ok we’re back to the f2000 mower.

Got it reassembled, it runs kinda like shit with a bunch of white smoke and low power. It doesn’t seem to want to rev all the way, but I dont have a point of comparison for this machine. Compression is still good and no more milk shaking.


Fuel filter looks like shit so ordered a new one, but I’ve always thought white smoke was unburned fuel, not lack of.

Right track with fuel filter or looking at injectors/ something else?
Click to expand...
JR4X said:
White is usually coolant/water.

It would be very black if it was fuel smoke.
Click to expand...

I have a Grasshopper ZT with the Kubota D722 in it and it usually lets out a good puff of coal at/during startup and then blows a little white for maybe a minute or so during warmup. Doesn't loose coolant or anything.
 
They will white smoke with air in fuel or starved. Should be accompanied with low power and slow to gain rpm.
 
Got a leak on my old Kubota I picked up. Its coming from the relief valve in the diverter. I think that's the name of it anyway.

You guys that grew up around or work on this stuff daily, can I pull it apart and replace the crush washer or whatever o ring I find?

Its a pretty good drip when running the machine. Mine is a single four way stick, not dual sticks like in the diagram.
 

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got a local auto paint store/shop?

I have one that will color match and put it into a spray bomb can for like $20 here.
this looks to be the paint code.

Autocolor code GDG4

Paint code Autocolor GDG4 - brown : This brown automotive paint color is most commonly known as Adobe Beige. The color formulation has been used only in 1996, primarily by Company Fleet Vehicles.
paintref.com
 
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Wisconsin has alot of cool old tractors just sitting around in restaurant parking lots.

Even there lawn tractors here make my BX look like a hot wheels toy.
 
blthomas said:
Got a leak on my old Kubota I picked up. Its coming from the relief valve in the diverter. I think that's the name of it anyway.

You guys that grew up around or work on this stuff daily, can I pull it apart and replace the crush washer or whatever o ring I find?

Its a pretty good drip when running the machine. Mine is a single four way stick, not dual sticks like in the diagram.
Click to expand...
Yes. Pull that guard off and see if you can get a model # for the valve and just buy a rebuild kit.
 
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