The Rental Truck on tons - 1999 Tacoma

[RunningProblem]

Setup bearings seem to make the Dana axles a little more bearable to setup.

 

[Grronk]

Setup bearings seem to make the Dana axles a little more bearable to setup.

Setup bearings and a proper bearing puller set made it muuuch better for sure

 

[RunningProblem]

Setup bearings and a proper bearing puller set made it muuuch better for sure

Post in thread 'Sore Dick Deals'

https://irate4x4.com/threads/sore-dick-deals.48599/post-1145196

 

[Grronk]

Got the high steer arms welded on this weekend, I think my wrists are broken after drilling out the knuckles for the 1" bolt

Used these washers as shims to help keep the arms from closing up too much when they cool, worked perfectly

Didn't get pics of the other side, flip your phone over and look at them again if you want to know what it looks like

 

[Grronk]

Got a little bit of work done this weekend.

Steering 50% done

Pulled her in on the IFS one last time

Sawzall slipped and the front fell off...

chays2464 talked me into doing the whole frame chop + engine lift combo when I bought my coil overs, which is also where I "borrowed" the design inspiration from

All said and done it was probably way easier than cutting off all the stock mounting from the frame and cleaning it up. I hate grinding, so the less I have to do the better

Tube

Cut and stacked tube

 

[Grronk]

I need (want) a car lift

Ol' Yella was watching my do things correctly this time around, she was not amused

booger weldz

Frame plate filler

 

[Grronk]

This mirror helped me see where my big ass head couldn't fit

 

[Grronk]

Oil pan swap is next

 

[chays2464]

I would rework that truss on your front axle to be as tight as possible to the diff, I had to notch my artec truss to get more uptravel. You will gain like 2-3" of uptravel if you chop that truss down or just ditch it all together.

 

[Grronk]

I would rework that truss on your front axle to be as tight as possible to the diff, I had to notch my artec truss to get more uptravel. You will gain like 2-3" of uptravel if you chop that truss down or just ditch it all together.

Yeah I'm going to have to rework it for sure, I'll see how I can make it work, if not just ditch it

 

[chays2464]

Yeah I'm going to have to rework it for sure, I'll see how I can make it work, if not just ditch it

Your frame plates that tie into the existing frame came out way cleaner than mine lol. Nice job nocking that out so quick!

 

[Grronk]

Your frame plates that tie into the existing frame came out way cleaner than mine lol. Nice job nocking that out so quick!

Thanks! I'm deadly with some cardboard, sharpies, and a China plasma cutter ahaha

 

[Grronk]

New oil pan in, and measuring for links

 

[chays2464]

my lowers are 38.5" and uppers are 36.5" if that helps for reference

 

[Grronk]

my lowers are 38.5" and uppers are 36.5" if that helps for reference

That does help a lot actually! I don't have my axle side lower link mounts on yet to get exact measurements (cant find the box lol), but my rough measurements were Lowers: 39" and Upper: 36" so pretty much identical lol

Other measurements (rough) were Wheelbase 129", and link separation ~11"

 

[chays2464]

That does help a lot actually! I don't have my axle side lower link mounts on yet to get exact measurements (cant find the box lol), but my rough measurements were Lowers: 39" and Upper: 36" so pretty much identical lol

Other measurements (rough) were Wheelbase 129", and link separation ~11"

I am at 128" wheelbase and I think I did 8" of seperation on the axle. Once you set it up at full bump there really isn't much wiggle room where it bumps out and doesn't take out the AC pulley or the headlights with the tires. I'm sure

Malburg114​

can chime in but I think his links were like 40" on the lowers

 

[Grronk]

Yeah I got my separation number without actually moving the axle up so it's more of a guesstimation for now

 

[Grronk]

Had some left over links from a different axle I am using for mock up mixed with some pvc pipe. Clamped the steering box in place to see what kind of clearance issues I got.

Don't mind the plate behind the box, just there for spacing it off the frame for mock up

Ride height. The WFO frame end trackbar mount puts the track bar at 3" shorter than the drag link. Trackbar: 40" & Drag link: 37". So it's 93% of the length which some places of the web says is okay. Is that 3" important? I could modify it o get a longer reaching bracket if so


Some clearance stuff

Tight fit but doesn't hit

This is one little spot. Steering is at max but bonks into the nut

Upper link mount at almost full bump. Not pictured is the pvc rubbing the frame a bit. Will need to bend the link to clear it

Still more to do, hoping to have it "done" by Thanksgiving

 

[chaplinfj60]

wow this is really a game of milameters

good job on sorting it all out

 

[Boomtacoma01]

Maybe try to push the box back a hair to get the TR and Drag link a bit more parallel to each other? If there is room that is.

 

[chays2464]

I would kick your frame side track bar bracket out to get it as close to the same length as the drag link. I had to make mine pretty long but only ended up with 3 degrees of bump steer. Could also throw a bend on either side of the tie rod to clear that nut or trim those misalignment spacers down and flip the bolt

 

[Grronk]

Maybe try to push the box back a hair to get the TR and Drag link a bit more parallel to each other? If there is room that is.

If you're referencing this pic

The steering is at full left turn, so the pit man arm pulled the drag link upper forward more. When centered (wheels straight) the drag link is pretty close to parallel with the pan hard at that angle. I will double check though just to be sure.

My steering box mounting bolts also want to live right where my radiator is, so I have little wiggle room unless I move the radiator a bit.

I would kick your frame side track bar bracket out to get it as close to the same length as the drag link. I had to make mine pretty long but only ended up with 3 degrees of bump steer. Could also throw a bend on either side of the tie rod to clear that nut or trim those misalignment spacers down and flip the bolt

Once I get the pitman arm fully seated on the box it should bring it up a bit, then I will also be trimming down the mis alignment spacers to get it to clear, should be easy.

Extending the pan hard mount seems like the consensus, so it shall be done

 

[Grronk]

Extended the panhard to match the drag link, took off the old mock up links and burned in the new links, also got the shock towers tacked in place and the coil overs mounted. I cycled it a few times late last night and everything seemed to clear fine. Going to do it again when i'm fresh to make sure nothing is missed.

Tight

Upper link

 

[Grronk]

I plan on running some support to my panhard mount to the shock tower once its all finalized to give it some extra reinforcement. At the moment I dont think I will be modifying the truss, other stuff has clearance issues before the truss has any issues of its own, so how it is now works.

 

[Grronk]

Well I did the thing. Burned everything in and turned her into a roller

 

[chays2464]

Looks good! What did frame height end up at?

 

[Grronk]

POV: Night ride flex shots (Just imagine more)

Doing this 3 Link was a fun learning curve. I guess I'm no longer just a leaf spring guy, does my cool guy club sticker automatically ship to me? Or??

 

[Grronk]

Looks good! What did frame height end up at?

Totally forgot to measure that last night lol I'll get that after work today

 

[CMT2.0]

That thing is a monster truck now. Also posting truck build updates from the office

 

[Grronk]

That thing is a monster truck now. Also posting truck build updates from the office

Shhhhhhhh I was on smoko