Deleted Member
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So you are going to shoot primer, then clear coat it? Not sure I am following here.
If that's the case, then still go with the 1.8 tip to lay the primer down and give it a sand with some 400-600 grit.
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If that's the case, then still go with the 1.8 tip to lay the primer down and give it a sand with some 400-600 grit.
Java230
???
- Joined
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- 2303
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Tiha
Red Skull Member
Started a thing.
this excursion is going from Black to white.
We are gutting it. Going to have to cut in the door frames, window frames, fenders, hood. All that crap.
Question. What to use?
The exterior will be base coat clear coat. But what about the door jambs and such?
I was thinking single stage. Kind of thinking acrylic lacquer because of the fast drying aspect.
Or should I use acrylic enamel?
Is there any other way to prep these miserable areas other than hand scuffing them?
Not sure if it was a gimmic or not but back in the day we used a product called XIM or something like that. It was clear, you spray it on, it was an adhesion promoter. Spray it, put your color over the stop. It eliminated the need for scuffing.
We used it on construction equipment. seemed to hold up okay. Can't really recall if the final finish was nice or not.
this excursion is going from Black to white.
We are gutting it. Going to have to cut in the door frames, window frames, fenders, hood. All that crap.
Question. What to use?
The exterior will be base coat clear coat. But what about the door jambs and such?
I was thinking single stage. Kind of thinking acrylic lacquer because of the fast drying aspect.
Or should I use acrylic enamel?
Is there any other way to prep these miserable areas other than hand scuffing them?
Not sure if it was a gimmic or not but back in the day we used a product called XIM or something like that. It was clear, you spray it on, it was an adhesion promoter. Spray it, put your color over the stop. It eliminated the need for scuffing.
We used it on construction equipment. seemed to hold up okay. Can't really recall if the final finish was nice or not.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/xim/bonders/flash-bond-400c-ntStarted a thing.
this excursion is going from Black to white.
We are gutting it. Going to have to cut in the door frames, window frames, fenders, hood. All that crap.
Question. What to use?
The exterior will be base coat clear coat. But what about the door jambs and such?
I was thinking single stage. Kind of thinking acrylic lacquer because of the fast drying aspect.
Or should I use acrylic enamel?
Is there any other way to prep these miserable areas other than hand scuffing them?
Not sure if it was a gimmic or not but back in the day we used a product called XIM or something like that. It was clear, you spray it on, it was an adhesion promoter. Spray it, put your color over the stop. It eliminated the need for scuffing.
We used it on construction equipment. seemed to hold up okay. Can't really recall if the final finish was nice or not.
This stuff. It's awesome, never noticed any issue with final finish if applied correctly. Remember, you need to put paint on it before it's fully cured...
speed bump
Red Skull Member
Nice little trick I picked up on the paint job I just did. A gallon freezer bag fits in a gallon paint can nicely. Then you can mix up as much paint or primer as you need in one shot, and seal it up without the cleanup of individual batches.
maveric
Squirrel Spotter
Unless you want the paint to peel off, it needs to be sanded with at least an 800 grit paper, if not a little courser. The adhesion promotor was more of a gimmick than a shortcut. They way we were instructed to use it was to scuff around the edges with a red scotch brite pad, then spray the promotor on, then right over it with color. Think of it like a feather pillow. As long as the seams are intact, the feathers will stay IN the pillow. Get a little tear (scratch, chip, etc) and if falls apart. The chip or scratch (from a rivet on a pocket, or a key, or catch it with a grocery bag) will start the peeling. Then there is nothing to stop it until it all peels off.Started a thing.
this excursion is going from Black to white.
We are gutting it. Going to have to cut in the door frames, window frames, fenders, hood. All that crap.
Question. What to use?
The exterior will be base coat clear coat. But what about the door jambs and such?
I was thinking single stage. Kind of thinking acrylic lacquer because of the fast drying aspect.
Or should I use acrylic enamel?
Is there any other way to prep these miserable areas other than hand scuffing them?
Not sure if it was a gimmic or not but back in the day we used a product called XIM or something like that. It was clear, you spray it on, it was an adhesion promoter. Spray it, put your color over the stop. It eliminated the need for scuffing.
We used it on construction equipment. seemed to hold up okay. Can't really recall if the final finish was nice or not.
If you are planning to spray base/clear on the exterior, I would get with the paint store and figure out what single stage you can spray the interior with that wont have issues when you come over it with base/clear. (I've been out of it for a while, but sprayed jambs on a vehicle with single stage. When we came over it with the base, the reducers in the color wrinkled the single stage under it. Had to strip and start over)
I’m stealing thatNice little trick I picked up on the paint job I just did. A gallon freezer bag fits in a gallon paint can nicely. Then you can mix up as much paint or primer as you need in one shot, and seal it up without the cleanup of individual batches.
YMMV but I’ve painted greasy old tractors just by power-washing them and spraying flashbond. 15 years later all the paint is still on them.
Edit: these weren’t show tractors that sit inside either. These are working tractors
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
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- 7,908
See that's the difference. You didn't give a fuck.
When you don't give a fuck and don't try and do a good job that shit ain't ever coming off.
If you care, that shit is guaranteed to peel.
Only time brake fluid removes paint as wellSee that's the difference. You didn't give a fuck.
When you don't give a fuck and don't try and do a good job that shit ain't ever coming off.
If you care, that shit is guaranteed to peel.
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
Used to use brake fluid to take the paint off of scale models when I was a kid.
And the kid in the shop that didn't clean up the mess he made while bleeding brakes peeled all the paint off the brake shield and frame...
And the kid in the shop that didn't clean up the mess he made while bleeding brakes peeled all the paint off the brake shield and frame...
Tiha
Red Skull Member
I have pretty much decided to use base clear on the door jambs. I know it is the smartest, even though I don't want to make that extra trip around the truck.
As well as scuffing/sanding. Probably got to do it all by hand. It will probably go faster than i think it will. I can probably use a sander on more of it than I think as well.
But what really made the decision for me was the rockers. they get a lot of abuse and don't want to shoot myself in the foot there.
As well as scuffing/sanding. Probably got to do it all by hand. It will probably go faster than i think it will. I can probably use a sander on more of it than I think as well.
But what really made the decision for me was the rockers. they get a lot of abuse and don't want to shoot myself in the foot there.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
Quart of single stage not including the required reducer and hardener (for single stage anyway).
Depends on how many coats you need though. I wouldn't believe it would take more than 2 quarts of color with the reducer and hardener.
Depends on how many coats you need though. I wouldn't believe it would take more than 2 quarts of color with the reducer and hardener.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
- Joined
- May 28, 2020
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- 3,648
two stage... thinking about a ready to spray with a urethane clear.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
IIRC two stage base coats still need reducer and hardener, but the ratios are different. Again, depending what color you're going with and painting over, I can't imagine needing more than two quarts. I bet one quart will be enough.