Nothing ever prepares you for your best friend to cross over the rainbow bridge. I remember her from way back in your PBB threads. Damn allergies…
Also worth noting, Those that have followed my builds for a while (clear back to my house remodel, & Peterbilt builds on pirate) probably catch the random Weimaraner photo bomb, Unfortunately she suffered a pretty sudden kidney failure & won't be gracing any more pics with her presence,
It was a rough day saying goodbye to one of the best shop dogs I ever had.
Purdie Ray,
May the sun forever shine on your nap, & you never have to get up & move because of sparks or a broom.
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The Jeffersons trailer
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Kunker
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Also worth noting, Those that have followed my builds for a while (clear back to my house remodel, & Peterbilt builds on pirate) probably catch the random Weimaraner photo bomb, Unfortunately she suffered a pretty sudden kidney failure & won't be gracing any more pics with her presence,
It was a rough day saying goodbye to one of the best shop dogs I ever had.
Purdie Ray,
May the sun forever shine on your nap, & you never have to get up & move because of sparks or a broom.
My condolences on your loss - beautiful dog, and I can only imagine how much of a hole that leaves in the family.
Elvis-n-texas
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.. I feel your pain. 4 of my best freinds lost renal organs, due to a supplier mistake in formulation in topical flea medications.
Skipped_Link
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Well I’m going to attempt an update with my phone, normally I do my updates on a desktop while on break at work,
But,,,,, after nearly 22 years I decided to try out a different company, not really a career change as I’m doing the same thing, (small vehicles fleet mechanic at a gold mine)
I’m just at a different mine for a different company,
Lots of life changes the last few weeks.
As of the middle of this month I don’t have the internet access I used to,
So anyway, progress on the hell project continues,
The roof/ceiling in the lounge area was insulated, then finished off with a little Home Depot paneling that was selected by the wife & kiddo. With the ceiling finished the interior walls were done up with a bit of bead board.
The toilet bathroom got the same bead board treatment on the walls, while the shower got waterproof FRP board.
Before the front wall in the lounge area could be completed I needed to make a decision on the AC unit,
I finally decide it wasn’t going in the hole was left behind from removing the original heater/AC,
Instead that hole was plugged with a small window.
A little stainless cleaner should have the front of the trailer looking pretty good after the weather warms back up.
But,,,,, after nearly 22 years I decided to try out a different company, not really a career change as I’m doing the same thing, (small vehicles fleet mechanic at a gold mine)
I’m just at a different mine for a different company,
Lots of life changes the last few weeks.
As of the middle of this month I don’t have the internet access I used to,
So anyway, progress on the hell project continues,
The roof/ceiling in the lounge area was insulated, then finished off with a little Home Depot paneling that was selected by the wife & kiddo. With the ceiling finished the interior walls were done up with a bit of bead board.
The toilet bathroom got the same bead board treatment on the walls, while the shower got waterproof FRP board.
Before the front wall in the lounge area could be completed I needed to make a decision on the AC unit,
I finally decide it wasn’t going in the hole was left behind from removing the original heater/AC,
Instead that hole was plugged with a small window.
A little stainless cleaner should have the front of the trailer looking pretty good after the weather warms back up.
Skipped_Link
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I decided the AC unit would be best mounted completely inside, & fully supported on the floor,
To do this the unit would need to be able to pull fresh air in, in order to push air through the condenser, that air then would have to go back outside,
The cargo trailer conversion & van life guys normally just cut a few holes in the exterior wall, then cover them with some type of vent, or louvered panels,
I couldn’t find coverings I liked, but I did have a set of shutters out in the “semi truck parts pile.
A little heavy & about twice as big as I needed,
But after a few hours I had them cut down to a better size & removed the extra hardware I didn’t need.
Next was actually chopping the hole in the front of the trailer,
But first, obviously the structure needed some rework.
The new tube work was installed so both the shutters would mount properly on the front of the trailer, & the AC unit could be fit up tight with some weather strip to keep hot condenser air headed outside while running,
After cutting the hole up front the shutters were mounted.
To do this the unit would need to be able to pull fresh air in, in order to push air through the condenser, that air then would have to go back outside,
The cargo trailer conversion & van life guys normally just cut a few holes in the exterior wall, then cover them with some type of vent, or louvered panels,
I couldn’t find coverings I liked, but I did have a set of shutters out in the “semi truck parts pile.
A little heavy & about twice as big as I needed,
But after a few hours I had them cut down to a better size & removed the extra hardware I didn’t need.
Next was actually chopping the hole in the front of the trailer,
But first, obviously the structure needed some rework.
The new tube work was installed so both the shutters would mount properly on the front of the trailer, & the AC unit could be fit up tight with some weather strip to keep hot condenser air headed outside while running,
After cutting the hole up front the shutters were mounted.
Skipped_Link
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The shutters are actually functional & can be closed when the AC is not in use,
Inside the trailer the front wall has always been the intended location for a couch/sitting area that would double as the kiddos bed, a couple hundred dollar couch from Walmart would have been the easiest, but with the AC unit now in the way, that option was out,
Instead a bench/storage compartment was framed up around the unit.
Rigid insulation was also used to construct the ducting needed to keep the condenser fan pulling air from outside,
With the cool outside air again insulated out of the lounge area, the front wall was finished off to match the rest.
The bench too was insulated & finished,
Next will be topping the bench off in 3 sections, the center will be semi permanent while each side will be fairly easy to remove for access to the storage areas,
Inside the trailer the front wall has always been the intended location for a couch/sitting area that would double as the kiddos bed, a couple hundred dollar couch from Walmart would have been the easiest, but with the AC unit now in the way, that option was out,
Instead a bench/storage compartment was framed up around the unit.
Rigid insulation was also used to construct the ducting needed to keep the condenser fan pulling air from outside,
With the cool outside air again insulated out of the lounge area, the front wall was finished off to match the rest.
The bench too was insulated & finished,
Next will be topping the bench off in 3 sections, the center will be semi permanent while each side will be fairly easy to remove for access to the storage areas,
The re-purposed metal vent idea is slick.
Thanks for trying the phone updates out for us. Much appreciated!
Thanks for trying the phone updates out for us. Much appreciated!
Skipped_Link
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Now that the AC is in, northern Nevada has reached its annual month of sub freezing temps, 😆
So I figured I’d work on the heater,
The mounting tabs for the old front jack hydraulic unit made for a decent place for the heater unit itself,
The combustion air intake is plumbed into the right front stabilizer/jack, (plenty of adjustment holes to pull air in from) both jacks/stands were previously plugged with more carpet padding, 🙄
As seen in the pic above, the exhaust is run through the aluminum floor & has the muffler mounted outside the trailer.
I still need to tie up the duct tubing, but it’s simply routed up under the stairs, then Tee’d with one leg passing through under one of the stair treads & blowing directly into the lounge area, the second passes through the side of the stair box & can be directed in several directions, (lower/kitchen area, bathroom with door open, lounge area, or even upstairs in the bedroom area)
Probably the most challenging part was figuring out where to mount the fuel tank,
I know there’s going to all kinds of gas, methanol, & oils in the trailer, but I just didn’t like the idea of having to bring diesel fuel into the living area for the heater,
After a little messing around I was able to fit the 15L tank under the bathroom floor, ahead of the black tank, but still visible from the cabinet under the kitchen sink,
The fuel cap is accessible from outside through one of the original locking panels
So I figured I’d work on the heater,
The mounting tabs for the old front jack hydraulic unit made for a decent place for the heater unit itself,
The combustion air intake is plumbed into the right front stabilizer/jack, (plenty of adjustment holes to pull air in from) both jacks/stands were previously plugged with more carpet padding, 🙄
As seen in the pic above, the exhaust is run through the aluminum floor & has the muffler mounted outside the trailer.
I still need to tie up the duct tubing, but it’s simply routed up under the stairs, then Tee’d with one leg passing through under one of the stair treads & blowing directly into the lounge area, the second passes through the side of the stair box & can be directed in several directions, (lower/kitchen area, bathroom with door open, lounge area, or even upstairs in the bedroom area)
Probably the most challenging part was figuring out where to mount the fuel tank,
I know there’s going to all kinds of gas, methanol, & oils in the trailer, but I just didn’t like the idea of having to bring diesel fuel into the living area for the heater,
After a little messing around I was able to fit the 15L tank under the bathroom floor, ahead of the black tank, but still visible from the cabinet under the kitchen sink,
The fuel cap is accessible from outside through one of the original locking panels
Skipped_Link
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In the heater pics you probably notice most of the water plumbing is done as well,
Pretty standard PEX install, hopefully it’s fairly trouble free,
Maybe after the holidays I can get the gray water tank mounted & plumbed along with the batteries, then maybe gets a heater running & start working on A LOT of wiring.
Pretty standard PEX install, hopefully it’s fairly trouble free,
Maybe after the holidays I can get the gray water tank mounted & plumbed along with the batteries, then maybe gets a heater running & start working on A LOT of wiring.
arse_sidewards
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You should be ashamed of those 90deg fittings. PEX bends for a reason.
Skipped_Link
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😆
I suppose I could have skipped those two at the water heater.
I doubt they’ll impede the flow capabilities of that RV water pump much,
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
For those that don't know where the thread title and theme came from:
Hard to tell but make sure u have access to the heater and its fuel pump. U will have to change the glow plug and screen in the heater and a filter in the pump. I do this once a year in the wifes grooming van as a pm but her heater runs from oct-march. When it starts blowing white smoke at start up its time.
shredator
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Sweet build. Your thread on the other site inspired me to jump into an HDT project too, for better or worse..
I recall you mentioned your tribulations getting licensed. I'm now in a similar situation, trying to get my non-commercial class A license in northern NV. I'm wondering did you end up getting a non-commercal class A license, or a CDL? How did you end up taking your driving test? I have a truck but no trailer that seems would qualify for the class A test... I'm looking at trying to rent something, possibly from a CDL school. Expensive though.
Thanks for posting the great content, I'll be following...
I recall you mentioned your tribulations getting licensed. I'm now in a similar situation, trying to get my non-commercial class A license in northern NV. I'm wondering did you end up getting a non-commercal class A license, or a CDL? How did you end up taking your driving test? I have a truck but no trailer that seems would qualify for the class A test... I'm looking at trying to rent something, possibly from a CDL school. Expensive though.
Thanks for posting the great content, I'll be following...
Skipped_Link
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I ended up getting a non commercial class A
I took the test in winnemucca using my truck and trailer,
As far as locations you will have to find a DMV that does commercial driving tests to do your skills test,
The written portion can be done at any DMV.
I believe any trailer with a weight rating of 10k or more will work,
What part of northern NV are you in? Besides the northern part, 😆
shredator
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Did the trailer that you tested with have air brakes? I was under the impression that it would in order to avoid some sort of restriction, but maybe I'm reading in between the lines too much here. Anyway, thanks for the info.
I'm in Carson City, which i think is still considered the northern part?
I'm in Carson City, which i think is still considered the northern part?
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
If the truck you take the exam in doesn't have certain equipment, you end up with a restriction.
Automatic transmission = you're restricted to only automatics, no manual transmissions
No air brakes = you're restricted to vehicles without air brakes
No combination vehicle = you're restricted from driving a truck tractor/semi-trailer combination
My understanding of the last one would be if you took the test in a dump truck/trailer combination where the truck is 26,001 or more pounds and the trailer is 10,001 or more pounds. To legally drive that, you'd need a Class A license but since you're doing it in a truck and trailer instead of a truck tractor/semi-trailer you'd get a restriction against combination vehicles on your license.
Automatic transmission = you're restricted to only automatics, no manual transmissions
No air brakes = you're restricted to vehicles without air brakes
No combination vehicle = you're restricted from driving a truck tractor/semi-trailer combination
My understanding of the last one would be if you took the test in a dump truck/trailer combination where the truck is 26,001 or more pounds and the trailer is 10,001 or more pounds. To legally drive that, you'd need a Class A license but since you're doing it in a truck and trailer instead of a truck tractor/semi-trailer you'd get a restriction against combination vehicles on your license.
rockota
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Sounds like Europe
FordFascist
Ford Bigot
Did the trailer that you tested with have air brakes? I was under the impression that it would in order to avoid some sort of restriction, but maybe I'm reading in between the lines too much here. Anyway, thanks for the info.
I'm in Carson City, which i think is still considered the northern part?
In NV it's based on the vehicle you take to the test. If you want the full Class A ( Commercial or Non) without restrictions you have to take the skills test in the respective combination that you want to be tested on. That means if you want air brakes and manual transmission you are going to need to find something with that combo when you test. Doubles and Triples require a special endorsement.
So my restriction is Auto trans only on CMV (E), and (J) no air brakes, no doubles / triples - because I took the test in my dually and 5th wheel combo.
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
Well, there is a "Get your CDL" thread here: GET YOUR CDL NOW! - What You Need to Know About New Entry-Level Driver Training Rules for Truckers
Most of the regulations are the same state to state for the CDL since it is Federal requirements.
Most of the regulations are the same state to state for the CDL since it is Federal requirements.
Skipped_Link
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Looks like an update every couple weeks works out pretty good for this project, since progress is so slow 😆
A while back I had an idea for a bathroom light, then I thought about it enough I had to try it out.
I ordered up a couple ft of 1.25x.120 wall clear polycarbonate tube, then took a couple strip LED lights from the river section at Walmart & stuck them together back to back, splicing the wires together into a deutsch plug,
After capping one end of the tube, & hanging the LED strip from the other end, I used a hobby grade 2 part resin & filled the tube,
Probably could use some refinement, since the air bubbles makes it look like solidified Sprite. But it’ll do for testing purposes,
Probably some percentage increase in lumens due to internal reflection, or something.
Anyway, this is the curtain rod for the shower curtain,
Later I found out that 1.25” diameter is not what is commonly used, & quality hangers are pretty much impossible to buy,
So I made some.
7075 aluminum should probably handle the task.
The mounts were fit, & a hole drilled through one wall in the center for the plug to pass through.
To finish it off a stack of curtain rings were slid on the light before installing for good,
Not going to get a sunburn, but plenty of light to take a leak, or rinse the dirt off at night.
A while back I had an idea for a bathroom light, then I thought about it enough I had to try it out.
I ordered up a couple ft of 1.25x.120 wall clear polycarbonate tube, then took a couple strip LED lights from the river section at Walmart & stuck them together back to back, splicing the wires together into a deutsch plug,
After capping one end of the tube, & hanging the LED strip from the other end, I used a hobby grade 2 part resin & filled the tube,
Probably could use some refinement, since the air bubbles makes it look like solidified Sprite. But it’ll do for testing purposes,
Probably some percentage increase in lumens due to internal reflection, or something.
Anyway, this is the curtain rod for the shower curtain,
Later I found out that 1.25” diameter is not what is commonly used, & quality hangers are pretty much impossible to buy,
So I made some.
7075 aluminum should probably handle the task.
The mounts were fit, & a hole drilled through one wall in the center for the plug to pass through.
To finish it off a stack of curtain rings were slid on the light before installing for good,
Not going to get a sunburn, but plenty of light to take a leak, or rinse the dirt off at night.
Skipped_Link
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With the shower plumbing, light, switch & associated wiring done in the bathroom wall I was able to finish off the last of the bead board in the upper lounge area.
Next I moved on to the grey water tank & plumbing,
I had originally planned on standard ABS pipe & glue in fittings, but then decided to go with a flexible PVC hose & barb fittings,
Seems to be pretty common with the “van lifer” crowd, aside from adapting the sink & shower drains to barb fitting it was all pretty simple,
As for the adapters I just took a couple 1” barb to 1.5” pipe fittings, cut the threads off & machined a face flange similar to any stub out that would go to a pee-trap.
I did t really get a lot of pics, but plumbing I plumbing, & for the most part it’s about done, (aside from grey & black tank drains.
More bead board was put up on the lower walls,
For 6 volt deep cycle batteries will be mounted right in front of the tank,
This will be the main battery bank for the trailer.
Then the last couple days were spend building a stair box to go over the tank & allow access to the lounge area & bathroom.
The whole assembly is removable, but it is definitely a 2 person project.
The sides, framework, & top two steps are all glued & screwed, the next step down is just screws/fastened in place for relatively easy access to the batteries.
The bottom step is clearly different, since I had run out of the cheap stair step material & there was a pretty good spot for storage if I could make it easily accessible.
So I bought an oak stair tread, then attached it to the star box with a long piano hinge at the back,
Once the batteries are installed I’ll put in a divider in to keep the two sections separated.
That’s pretty much it this time around
Hopefully be wrapping up the carpentry pretty soon & get on to wiring .
Next I moved on to the grey water tank & plumbing,
I had originally planned on standard ABS pipe & glue in fittings, but then decided to go with a flexible PVC hose & barb fittings,
Seems to be pretty common with the “van lifer” crowd, aside from adapting the sink & shower drains to barb fitting it was all pretty simple,
As for the adapters I just took a couple 1” barb to 1.5” pipe fittings, cut the threads off & machined a face flange similar to any stub out that would go to a pee-trap.
I did t really get a lot of pics, but plumbing I plumbing, & for the most part it’s about done, (aside from grey & black tank drains.
More bead board was put up on the lower walls,
For 6 volt deep cycle batteries will be mounted right in front of the tank,
This will be the main battery bank for the trailer.
Then the last couple days were spend building a stair box to go over the tank & allow access to the lounge area & bathroom.
The whole assembly is removable, but it is definitely a 2 person project.
The sides, framework, & top two steps are all glued & screwed, the next step down is just screws/fastened in place for relatively easy access to the batteries.
The bottom step is clearly different, since I had run out of the cheap stair step material & there was a pretty good spot for storage if I could make it easily accessible.
So I bought an oak stair tread, then attached it to the star box with a long piano hinge at the back,
Once the batteries are installed I’ll put in a divider in to keep the two sections separated.
That’s pretty much it this time around
Hopefully be wrapping up the carpentry pretty soon & get on to wiring .
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
I assume you've heard of uniseal fittings for tank connections. Makes all tank connections super easy.
Skipped_Link
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I have not, but I’m interested,
The black tank got standard grommets,
The grey tank had threaded ports that I used.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
Uniseal Holding Tank Slip Fittings | Plastic-Mart
Our high-quality Uniseal Holding Tank Slip Fittings are made in the USA. Order today for the best plastic tanks & accessories at the best prices!
m.plastic-mart.com
Can buy them from anywhere including Amazon in pretty much any size. That link has a nice diagram.
I used them for my fresh tank connections and will use them for all of my Grey tank connections as well.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Mind blown
This link better explains them
Uniseals Tank Fittings
Uniseals Tank Fittings, grommets, skin fittings, water tight seals
Skipped_Link
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With good access to all 3 levels now, I decided to continue working my way up & try to get the walls finished,
That meant building a new wall for the upper bedroom area, to separate it completely from the garage area.
1” light wall square tube, with 1” foam insulation, & bead board on both sides worked out great for a 1.5” finished thickness, which fit nicely with the RV window I had purchased just for this part of the project.
Looking forward/up from the garage area.
Looking back from the lounge area into the bedroom.
Both walls behind the stainless backsplash countertops were done with FRP board, & ready for trim work.
And a little more bead board finished up the exterior of the bathroom walls, (also to be trimmed out later)
I think the upper stairs is the last of the bead board work to do,
But wiring has to be complete before I do that,
That meant building a new wall for the upper bedroom area, to separate it completely from the garage area.
1” light wall square tube, with 1” foam insulation, & bead board on both sides worked out great for a 1.5” finished thickness, which fit nicely with the RV window I had purchased just for this part of the project.
Looking forward/up from the garage area.
Looking back from the lounge area into the bedroom.
Both walls behind the stainless backsplash countertops were done with FRP board, & ready for trim work.
And a little more bead board finished up the exterior of the bathroom walls, (also to be trimmed out later)
I think the upper stairs is the last of the bead board work to do,
But wiring has to be complete before I do that,
Mr. Mindless
Well-known member
Thanks for the inspiration. Glad someone linked to this thread from the buggy build. I filled half a page with notes and thoughts on how I want to start actually executing on my outfitting instead of continuing to just use my big dumb box as a dumb empty box. Extremely nice work!