What's new

The black jeep - 1 ton XJ

Got the unibody stripped down and some steel it on the unibody and the frame stffeners.



Welded the 4 link and fronts.

20230103_200113.jpg


20230105_164936.jpg
20230105_164943.jpg
20230105_164948.jpg
20230105_165012.jpg
20230105_165029.jpg
20230105_165150.jpg
20230105_165107.jpg
20230105_165047.jpg
 
Wow! You defin give the rear a chop.
any plans for rear stiffeners?
 
Did you make those mid stiffeners or buy them? I’ve never seen a set integrate link mounts. Pretty sweet.
 
I would diy like my MJ build if I didn't already have this kit. Almost all the kits I've seen add a significant amount below the unibody rails and require a large amount of lift. Not for me.
 
I don’t think there are too many unique ways to make a 3 link or 4 link for a Cherokee. I guess the biggest factor in my limited experience is joint size. Not everyone goes with 2 5/8 wide joints, and not all 2 5/8” joints use the same hardware. I suppose it’s easier to drill a 1/2” hole to 9/16 or 5/8 than make multiple options.

Mine is as tall as I made it just because I don’t know what I was doing. The big difference is shock hoops to the hood, or just above the stock coil spring location. 12” shock with the upper mount at the hood will be pretty low. 16” coilover at the stock cool spring location will be tall.

The 4 link front is still my favorite part.
 
Just spent $110 dollars on bolts. Since when does TS charge $6.99/lb for hardware? FJB:mad3:

20230106_110205.jpg


This just showed up. Warn 12k:smokin:
20230106_104642.jpg
 
Check Fastenal. It might come out to the same since you're paying for things to be mailed, but you can get fine thread.

I bought bolts longer than necessary and cut more threads so the entire shoulder went through the joint, and then put washers on the end.

You could also buy bolts from a CAT parts store. the catalog is linked somewhere here. It's all Grade 8 or better.
 
I finished the rear frame stiffeners and rolled the rear axle under the jeep to see how it's gonna look. It's going to have a wide stance
20230107_091625.jpg
20230106_165747.jpg
20230107_091650.jpg
 
Are those the Ruffstuff rear frame sections? I kind of had to admit I’ll been needing them (actually a frame would be great) since it was the only section not covered. They didn’t exist when I started my build.

edit: it’s actually not MUCH wider than my stock Dana 35 and 33s. Depending on what backspacing you go with it almost feels about the same size, but you’re on one tons so you don’t worry too much about what is in the way. :lmao:
 
They are the iron rock offroad and the fittment wasnt good. I would recommend the Barnes4WD as the best bang for buck. The ruffstuff are also good but they are more expensive.
 
Good to know. discount code MUDDYBEARDS for 10% off cuts shipping just about in half. I. I guess the closes Ruffstuff could come is a discount code on a holiday weekend, and I don’t expect one of those until February. Maybe KOH in February.
 
Good to know. discount code MUDDYBEARDS for 10% off cuts shipping just about in half. I. I guess the closes Ruffstuff could come is a discount code on a holiday weekend, and I don’t expect one of those until February. Maybe KOH in February.

They do 20% every now and then. Also do free shipping over $250 and normal shipping is reasonable. Seems like ruffstuff charges 20 bucks to ship a weld washer:lmao:
 
Fastenal and that place were almost $11/ nut and bolt. TS was $6.87 per nut and bolt.
Good to know. I don’t have a tractor supply close enough to make it a viable source so I’m stuck with Home Depot or online sources
 
fl0w3n Do you have an Ace Hardware or True Value? I thought those have a good selection of bolts. Also, as I said above Caterpillar, the heavy equipment company, sells some good hardware.
 
I have ACE, haven’t been in a while to check for hardware though. Good to know. Never even looked a true value.
I could probably get CAT through the shop at work if I had a list of what I needed
 

Part numbers and sizes. I think bolts start around page 430.
 
Made a upper link mount for the front axle. Practicing my TIG :lmao: It's difficult to maintain even bead width. Hopefully by the end of this build i will be decent at it.

20230108_151409.jpg
20230108_151358.jpg
20230108_151421.jpg
20230108_151414.jpg
 
I always tel myself to slow down when I’m welding. It helps me relax. Also, I never set a deadline so it’s done when it’s done. Maybe get a beat or song in your head to make the timing match your TiG welding.



I can’t TiG weld. Never learned. It would also make my build probably take much longer.
 
You did a lot better job welding to questionable ChryCo sheetmetal coated in 20 years of 4.0 tears than I did.
 
Working this week so no real progress. Gonna work all next week on getting the axles in, links and build a ram mount for the d60.

The ram and cooler just showed up today 2.75"x8". Its YUGE:smokin:

20230114_131426.jpg
 
Got the front axle mocked up. Limiting uptravel factor is the lower links hitting the unibody. I'm gonna to redo the upper link mounts a little taller and move them inboard for a little more driveshaft clearance.

20230117_094632.jpg
20230117_094648.jpg
20230117_095253.jpg
20230117_095257.jpg
20230117_095326.jpg
 
Did you get the mandatory 10” link separation up front? 🤣

Looks good man. Just a reminder…DOM tube is JUUUUUUUST a bit bigger than PVC. So those lower links will probably be 1/2” lower if you’re using 2” tube for the bottom.
 
Top Back Refresh