The black jeep - 1 ton XJ

Mike Honcho said:
The 6 gear is twice as strong? They are also easy to find and cheap at the junkyard. I used the NWF cable shifter for the t case and made my own direct link shifter for the doubler. Here's some pics of the MJ.

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True, input tq won't be a problem for me but I guess I need to source a 23 spline input anyways so might as well just grab a 6 gear while I'm at it for future proofing. Speaking of not as strong, I see you're still using the cast housing. NWF advised me to go with the billet cover plate if I was going to stick with the cast.

Thanks for sharing the pics, good inspiration and a clean setup.
RunningProblem said:
4 link with mechanical steering? This is going to be interesting.


Edit: what did you find your 6 gear planetary out of? I’d love to put one in my NP231.
Did you do a wide chain yet or not?
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The mid 90's Chevy 242 cases or JB fab sells the 6 gears. He isn't using a chain anything with a Ecobox and 205 setup
 
fl0w3n said:
True, input tq won't be a problem for me but I guess I need to source a 23 spline input anyways so might as well just grab a 6 gear while I'm at it for future proofing. Speaking of not as strong, I see you're still using the cast housing. NWF advised me to go with the billet cover plate if I was going to stick with the cast.
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In the NWF doubler install instructions they recommend the 6 gear also. I haven't had any issues with the stock cover. I will do a midnight metal works d300 case if I ever blow mine up.
 
Getting ready to do a NWF integrated eco box and D300 setup for a customer. Real anxious to see how it all goes together.
 
Mike Honcho said:
In the NWF doubler install instructions they recommend the 6 gear also. I haven't had any issues with the stock cover. I will do a midnight metal works d300 case if I ever blow mine up.
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Good to know, whoever I spoke to on the phone at NWF mentioned I am probably fine getting away with the 3 gear from my 231 and the stock 4.0 power… but I want a 23 spline input so I may as well grab a 6 gear while I’m at it since I’ll be at the JY anyways.
Is your 300 setup stock gearing or 4:1? 06H3 was pointing out he know people with 300s that have gone boom, but I wonder if it’s from the cast casing flexing and if a thick inspection cover could solve it.
I’d love to go with a full housing for my 4:1 300 guts but not in the budget right now.
 
Byro said:
Getting ready to do a NWF integrated eco box and D300 setup for a customer. Real anxious to see how it all goes together.
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Goes together real easy. The quality of their stuff is amazing. Only complaint is the shifter is not clockable, it's fixed at around the 230-3 o clock position.
 
Byro said:
Getting ready to do a NWF integrated eco box and D300 setup for a customer. Real anxious to see how it all goes together.
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Can you post some on it? Not to derail this thread into a d300 NWF thread… but their website is a little lacking on the info about it. Is the planetary the only thing you need, or are more parts needed to harvest for the integrated box?
 
fl0w3n said:
Can you post some on it? Not to derail this thread into a d300 NWF thread… but their website is a little lacking on the info about it. Is the planetary the only thing you need, or are more parts needed to harvest for the integrated box?
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All parts are listed in the instructions. You can download them off their site.

Engine Adapter | Installation Manuals | Northwest Fabworks

Need help with you engine adapter? Support with your 4x4 gear box? Contact Northwest Fabworks for installation manuals or at [email protected].
northwestfab.com northwestfab.com

You need the annulus gear, planetary, input shaft and the front oil seal housing. All can be used from a np231. There is a gear pitch change in annulus gears at around 1995 so don't mix and match those.
 
Thanks, I must have missed that on their site.
I’ll do some research to make sure the 231 input shaft I grab matches the 242 planetary and annulus, I do recall reading about the pitch change somewhere now that you mention it. Originally I was just going to rob my 21 spline 231 guts that are in the Jeep now, but if I’m going through the work to build the ecobox I may as well future proof it and go 23 spline with the 6 gear planetary.

What are you doing about mounting, using one of their mounting foot brackets or just making your own?
 
fl0w3n said:
Good to know, whoever I spoke to on the phone at NWF mentioned I am probably fine getting away with the 3 gear from my 231 and the stock 4.0 power… but I want a 23 spline input so I may as well grab a 6 gear while I’m at it since I’ll be at the JY anyways.
Is your 300 setup stock gearing or 4:1? 06H3 was pointing out he know people with 300s that have gone boom, but I wonder if it’s from the cast casing flexing and if a thick inspection cover could solve it.
I’d love to go with a full housing for my 4:1 300 guts but not in the budget right now.
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  1. OP - Run hydro with a dual triangulated 4 link, or if you must run a steering box run a 3 link with a track bar. Plenty of guys drive around with full hydro on the street. It's not illegal. Just make sure your system is functioning well before you drive it around.
  2. Dana 300s crack at the corner between the main shaft and the intermediate gear. I had to score a spare Dana 300 to keep wheeling a few years ago because my case broke during the summer. I ultimately ran that bonus D300 until my Atlas showed up.

I picked up this cover from Trusted Designs . It was high quality and easy to install. Definitely a requirement. As far as money to be spent on a D300 - that is about the extent I would spend. You already own a Cherokee, so you know what shoveling money at a lost cause looks like. When you price out a case upgrade, upgrading the outputs and then doing the gears you are money ahead to simply buy an Atlas.

In short, put the cover on and run it. Save money to buy Atlas.

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FordFascist said:
  1. OP - Run hydro with a dual triangulated 4 link, or if you must run a steering box run a 3 link with a track bar. Plenty of guys drive around with full hydro on the street. It's not illegal. Just make sure your system is functioning well before you drive it around.
  2. Dana 300s crack at the corner between the main shaft and the intermediate gear. I had to score a spare Dana 300 to keep wheeling a few years ago because my case broke during the summer. I ultimately ran that bonus D300 until my Atlas showed up.
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Good job grenading that 300! Guessing v8 power from your exhaust?

I feel like I beat on mine but its a stock 4.0 and I haven't had any issues.
 
I went ahead and ordered the psc 2.75x8 XD ram and a 9.76CI-160ML orbital valve.

Got some monster forged 1410 yokes for the 205 and the 14b from busted knuckle. 😎

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Mike Honcho said:
Good job grenading that 300! Guessing v8 power from your exhaust?

I feel like I beat on mine but its a stock 4.0 and I haven't had any issues.
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Yes, a slightly-warmed 351W. It lasted 9 years surprisingly - though I don't drive like an asshole. You don't need a lot of power to flex that case grenade it.
 
1410 rear yokes? Damn. What do you think the weakest component in the rear will be now? Ring gear?
 
FordFascist said:
  1. OP - Run hydro with a dual triangulated 4 link, or if you must run a steering box run a 3 link with a track bar. Plenty of guys drive around with full hydro on the street. It's not illegal. Just make sure your system is functioning well before you drive it around.
  2. Dana 300s crack at the corner between the main shaft and the intermediate gear. I had to score a spare Dana 300 to keep wheeling a few years ago because my case broke during the summer. I ultimately ran that bonus D300 until my Atlas showed up.

I picked up this cover from Trusted Designs . It was high quality and easy to install. Definitely a requirement. As far as money to be spent on a D300 - that is about the extent I would spend. You already own a Cherokee, so you know what shoveling money at a lost cause looks like. When you price out a case upgrade, upgrading the outputs and then doing the gears you are money ahead to simply buy an Atlas.

In short, put the cover on and run it. Save money to buy Atlas.

1670950979255.png


20180812_180344-1.jpg

20180817_180956.jpg
Click to expand...
Good to know. I’ve been gathering the weak spot with 300 stock case is the flex. I’ll definitely be going with the billet cover to stiffen it up.
My Cherokee certainly is a pile, but I got the 300 with 4:1 gear set and 1310 yokes already for $600 and the guy threw in a 23 spline AW4, so even with throwing some money at the billet cover and the ecobox-i I should be way ahead of a brand new atlas 2spd and a deeper ratio
 
Got the orbital valve and some barnes parts in the mail the other day.
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I think that catches me up from the reset.

I found out I was sent the wrong gears for the d60 a few days ago. They sent the correct gears out and I got them along with my hydraulic reservoir in the mail today.

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I finished setting up the dana 60 gears today and removed the t case.

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NickMaul said:
Looks a lot like my build. Your going to want a top of the line transmission jack for the tcase combo. That sum a bitch is heavy!
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Oh I know! Hopefully my HF will be up to it. Your red interior looks just like my MJs 89/ 90? :smokin:
 
I hated the inner upper link mount so much I left part of it there. Also, on MINE the throttle cable needed to be mounted to a rigid spot using the bolt/nut setup it came with stock in order fo fit to work. it took me a few drives to figure out why my speedometer no longer worked.
 
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