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TG vs Diamond vs ???

Fwiw, there is still FJ80 outters as an option. Little bit bigger birf, knuckle ball trunions, ect and the big benefit, actual steering angle. I ran 39 stickies on mine and blew a few 3rds without hurting the rcv's. Biggest thing I liked was the massive knuckles and arms. If my current diamond front had FJ80 outters, I'd probably keep it just to see what it would take, but my plan is to use the 60s simce I sank a bunch of money into them and my rig being a 5 seater, isn't exactly dainty.
 
width has nothing to do with scrub radius... technically. But it allows for components to be used/not used that DO impact scrub radius...
 
rockota said:
width has nothing to do with scrub radius... technically. But it allows for components to be used/not used that DO impact scrub radius...
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Well yes :flipoff2:

My point is, add up the cost of ifs hubs, wheel spacers, 2" bs wheels, 6 shooters, fancy trunion shit, and you could have just bought a 64" wide axle, ran 4.5" bs wheels and sa hubs with no issues.

I used to wheel with a guy who had an 85 toyota, all the same parts are everyone, but he has 2.5" bs wheels, 36 iroks, sa hubs, no spacers. He was the absolute worst driver and would put that thing through hell. 240:1 and 5k rpm everywhere, truck was beat to fuck. Broke very little parts over like 10 years of beatdown.

So even just the dumb offset wheels were OK without being combined with all the other dumb spacers.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I think the aftermarket housing does help solve a lot of issues.

Obviously helps with bending the actual housing.

Less gear deflection.

The one I think people overlook is increased width which helps with scrub radius. Should take stress off steering components big time.

Obviously won't help with birfs, but I think the rcvs are pretty tough if you're not trying to push the rig as hard as you can.

If a guys looking to have a street diving rig that can still tackle decent trails. Built Toyota axles and 37s are a solid combo.

If you want a rig to hit all the hard lines and beat on, just skip Toyota axles all together.
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All I'm saying is if you build a custom Toyota axle your pretty much at the end of upgrades if you have issues. Sure there's a ton of little upgrades but at the end you're limited to a 30 spline drive train. Also all those little upgrades add up fast, add up all the little stuff you're going to toss at a Toyota axle and it's not really a cheap option.
 
94toytruck said:
All I'm saying is if you build a custom Toyota axle your pretty much at the end of upgrades if you have issues. Sure there's a ton of little upgrades but at the end you're limited to a 30 spline drive train. Also all those little upgrades add up fast, add up all the little stuff you're going to toss at a Toyota axle and it's not really a cheap option.
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I agree, but if he already has a decent set of toyota axles, the housing isn't a big cost compared to a full 1 ton swap.

Like I said, I'm pulling a nice set of 9.5" toyota axles for D60s, so I get your side. I just can see how not everyone wants or needs 1tons to cruise through the rubicon.
 
94toytruck said:
IMHO if your building from scratch do a 609 up front if you're planning 37s+. Room to grow, easy to find most parts, price isn't much different in the end.
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YotaAtieToo said:
I agree, but if he already has a decent set of toyota axles, the housing isn't a big cost compared to a full 1 ton swap.
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Where did I say anything about scavenging parts from a old used axle? Damn you can't read and like to argue.
 
94toytruck said:
Where did I say anything about scavenging parts from a old used axle? Damn you can't read and like to argue.
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You didn't, but this is what the op is doing. Who can't read? So why bring up building from scratch?

It's a discussion, I've said I agree with your points multiple times, but I also can see how tons and 40s aren't for everyone. What a crazy thought. :homer:
 
Yes, my plan was to reuse my old parts on a new housing. I'd like tons and 40's, I just don't think I need them for what I do. In the future maybe but if I can get a better housing setup for cheaper I can wheel for awhile I'll go that route.
 
kschaper75 said:
I'd also like to hear options on just upgrading the front all together. I'd like to do tons and run 40's but it seems to be difficult to find passenger drop axles for a decent price. I know several here have run both or run custom axles and just looking for some advice on what potential route to take.
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YotaAtieToo said:
You didn't, but this is what the op is doing. Who can't read? So why bring up building from scratch?

It's a discussion, I've said I agree with your points multiple times, but I also can see how tons and 40s aren't for everyone. What a crazy thought. :homer:
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From the first post, want to try and read this part again?:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 
I've got tg's front and rear, taco width front and ifs rear with spacers

They've been good to me, I'm always tempted to switch to a 9" rear whenever I look at brakes and diffs :homer:

Cost is pretty similar if you're starting from scratch
 
They are now building the axle. Went 64 wide. Next question is axle shafts. Since it will be 5" longer on the short side, wheres the best place for a new shaft? Same for steering. Already have high steering, just need new tubes. Ruffstuff the best?
 
Best bet is to just order new rcv's, they don't charge much extra for custom length when buying a whole axle set vs buying custom axles by themselves. No one will buy your stock shafts by themselves, but selling a whole set of shafts and birfs should be somewhat easy.

Edit: you only added to one side? 55"+5" doesn't equal 64"?

Are you running hiems od FJ80 tre?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Best bet is to just order new rcv's, they don't charge much extra for custom length when buying a whole axle set vs buying custom axles by themselves. No one will buy your stock shafts by themselves, but selling a whole set of shafts and birfs should be somewhat easy.

Edit: you only added to one side? 55"+5" doesn't equal 64"?

Are you running hiems od FJ80 tre?
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I told them 64" so whatever that comes out to. Fj80 tre
 
kschaper75 said:
I told them 64" so whatever that comes out to. Fj80 tre
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I'd imagine they're going to add to both sides. So 2 custom shafts are usually expensive enough to justify what I mentioned.

The common toyota high steer are 1 1/4" tube that's tapped for the FJ80 tres. I don't know if ruffstuff sells fj80 inserts or not.

Google shows lots of results for bugs

www.yotamasters.com

Steering Rod Weld Bungs 23mm (for FJ80 tie rod ends)

23mm Bungs are designed to fit 1.25" x .25" wall steering rods. Machined from 8620 solid billet steel and are sold individually as RH or LH.
www.yotamasters.com
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'd imagine they're going to add to both sides. So 2 custom shafts are usually expensive enough to justify what I mentioned.

The common toyota high steer are 1 1/4" tube that's tapped for the FJ80 tres. I don't know if ruffstuff sells fj80 inserts or not.

Google shows lots of results for bugs

www.yotamasters.com

Steering Rod Weld Bungs 23mm (for FJ80 tie rod ends)

23mm Bungs are designed to fit 1.25" x .25" wall steering rods. Machined from 8620 solid billet steel and are sold individually as RH or LH.
www.yotamasters.com
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Makes sense. Didn't know if there were other options.

Appreciate the help
 

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seriously looking at selling my fully everything done to can't upgrade anymore super wiz bang Toyota mini truck axles and go to FJ80 stuff
 
Stingray said:

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seriously looking at selling my fully everything done to can't upgrade anymore super wiz bang Toyota mini truck axles and go to FJ80 stuff
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That's a pretty decent deal.

Those housings are much better than a stock mini truck, but no where near a diamond. I bent my trusted housing in the middle :laughing:

Also, it's a pain to mount leafs. My first one I did 29" mini truck space and it was a huge pain. The 2nd was 31.5" and better, but still a pain.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That's a pretty decent deal.

Those housings are much better than a stock mini truck, but no where near a diamond. I bent my trusted housing in the middle :laughing:

Also, it's a pain to mount leafs. My first one I did 29" mini truck space and it was a huge pain. The 2nd was 31.5" and better, but still a pain.
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That's why I'm not guarding it to buy for myself,
personally I have two minitruck fronts that are maxed out one is a stock housing reinforced as best as possible with every bolt on, the second is the same but a TG housing,
I'm going to 40's on my 85 4runner and feel the larger FJ80 stuff would be a good swap rather than going to tons. Just looking at how to package it.

plus fj 80 width.
 
Stingray said:
That's why I'm not guarding it to buy for myself,
personally I have two minitruck fronts that are maxed out one is a stock housing reinforced as best as possible with every bolt on, the second is the same but a TG housing,
I'm going to 40's on my 85 4runner and feel the larger FJ80 stuff would be a good swap rather than going to tons. Just looking at how to package it.

plus fj 80 width.
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Agree, just expressing pros and cons. Could always grab a custom housing for the FJ80 and have the best of both worlds :flipoff2:

I'd go to 66-67" ish for 40s personally if spending the money.

One overlooked thing I really liked way steering angle, very noticeable over the mini truck stuff.
 
The general consensus seems to be go wider up front than rear.

In my case I am building a 1st gen Taco for 37’s. I’d like to be about 6” wider front than a taco width rear. I’d also like to implement cutting brakes on the rear.

Being a street driven truck (no trailer) I have fibreglass fenders to match the increased width up front. I’m in the PNW so the advantage weaving through trees would be desirable.

Am I missing anything by not having a wider rear end? And major disadvantages?
 
here is another option for a fab 9 inch. never used them myself. or know anyone who has. just ran across them when i was doing some searching.

1697825666704.png
 
4runner666 said:
The general consensus seems to be go wider up front than rear.

In my case I am building a 1st gen Taco for 37’s. I’d like to be about 6” wider front than a taco width rear. I’d also like to implement cutting brakes on the rear.

Being a street driven truck (no trailer) I have fibreglass fenders to match the increased width up front. I’m in the PNW so the advantage weaving through trees would be desirable.

Am I missing anything by not having a wider rear end? And major disadvantages?
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Being that much wider in the front just looks goofy.

When I first long traveled my 1986 IFS 4Runner, I was 6-3/4" wider in the front (3-3/8" per side) and it cornered at speed very, very good. You could not get the back end to slide in a corner, it was very stable, BUT it just looked a little goofy. I later went to 2" spacers in the back, which made it look much better and made it easier to flick the ass out on corners.
 
Tech Tim said:
Being that much wider in the front just looks goofy.

When I first long traveled my 1986 IFS 4Runner, I was 6-3/4" wider in the front (3-3/8" per side) and it cornered at speed very, very good. You could not get the back end to slide in a corner, it was very stable, BUT it just looked a little goofy. I later went to 2" spacers in the back, which made it look much better and made it easier to flick the ass out on corners.
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An important detail! I do like pretend I’m a WRC driver from time to time.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
here is another option for a fab 9 inch. never used them myself. or know anyone who has. just ran across them when i was doing some searching.

1697825666704.png
Click to expand...

I have built on of these. Not my wisest decision..but you can use these as a base and use 05 D60 outers. The D60 tubes slide right over. Makes for a very heavy axle.
 
I run a front rock assault taco width with IFS hubs and a IFS width rear rock assualt. Way wider in the front but that was the look I was after. Just need to install the fiberglass fenders I have. Trucks a 87 4runner and I'm happy with the way it rolls down the road/performs.
 
Probably a noob question but I'll ask anyway. Trying to order custom shafts for the axle. Emailed front range a few times and got a price but never a response when I wanted to order them. Reached out to Branik and they can do the inner shaft just need to supply outers. Here's Brandon's response:
Spline Count on both ends
Length of splines on each end
retaining ring details
Overall shaft length
Seals you are using

Spline length isn't an issue as I can measure my stock shafts. My question is how to measure the overall length. It's probably obvious and Im overthinking it. Also, what retaining ring is it?
 
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