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Superduty 60 passenger side drop

But welding it into the C an housing doesn't?

You have a 3.75x275 tube sleeved with a 250 wall tube, I think you'd have a hard time warping that with weld unless you were trying to.
Weld is uniformly distributed around the tube. Not gonna deform much even before you account for the sleeve.
 
That's what I'm saying.

If he prefers to retube over cut and sleeve, that's fine, I'm just not understanding the thought process.
Mostly boomer logic. A properly cut and sleeved tube will be stronger as stated earlier. Some people like to do things the hard way.
 
Mostly boomer logic. A properly cut and sleeved tube will be stronger as stated earlier. Some people like to do things the hard way.
If I was a boomer. I would pay some other slum to do it for me. I understand what everyone is saying, I just wanted to do it the way that I chose. I don't do this for a living, so I can afford to do it the hard way.
 
I posted it more for the pics hoping it would answer some of your questions.

Pics were a bit lacking but it was something.
 
Anything wheelin related is grossly overpriced in norcal, so I wouldn't give that much thought. Probably won't sell for anything close to that.
I'm hoping to sell my 93 dodge kp60 once the sd60 is finished. Be interesting to see what it will fetch in my area.
 
I'm hoping to sell my 93 dodge kp60 once the sd60 is finished. Be interesting to see what it will fetch in my area.
I sold mine for $500 bare w/o knuckles or brakes. The money is in the SRW hubs and spindles, but the dodge hubs are gay anyway. Noone wants them.

And the one I sold even had the 70 outer C's
 
I sold mine for $500 bare w/o knuckles or brakes. The money is in the SRW hubs and spindles, but the dodge hubs are gay anyway. Noone wants them.

And the one I sold even had the 70 outer C's
93 dodge hubs are same as GM.
 
Just a little update. I got the tube machined down and plunked it in today. Used a tiger torch to heat the housing. The tube just fell in and it shrunk faaast. I didnt take the pinion races out and paid for in. The inner one is a little discolored, will have to replace it.
 

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ok this is where we are at. started stripping axle... should we trim this amount off each side of the pumpkin casting and do the cut and sleeve here? and make out measurements from where to were. i was thinking the spreader hole
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I would trim 2in from the end of the casting off. Depending on what 05+ 60 you have it will either have a single press size or 2.
 
I would second the 2” trim on the short side. It’s what everyone does to link them.
If you keep the top and bottom dimples you could measure from those if they’re perfectly machined. Two spots are better than one.
 
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I would second the 2” trim on the short side. It’s what everyone does to link them.
If you keep the top and bottom dimples you could measure from those if they’re perfectly machined. Two spots are better than one.
i would have to trim both sides of the housing to cut and sleeve. ?
 
Seems like you could just knock that inner C off the drivers side, then sleeve and extend with new tubing however far you need. Do the same and get the inner C off the pass side, then just cut the tube to length and put the C back on. Not as easy as a cut and sleeve method, but with the way the long side tube is drawn it doesn't seem like thats going to work.
 
i would have to trim both sides of the housing to cut and sleeve. ?
Who would you need to trim the passenger side? It seems to have enough tube for you to sleeve it if you wanted.
For the driver side I know everyone cuts 2” to fit link bars. You could do as stated above and sleeve it, and move the diff closer to the passenger side if you wanted to get crazy about custom length axle shafts.
 
Who would you need to trim the passenger side? It seems to have enough tube for you to sleeve it if you wanted.
For the driver side I know everyone cuts 2” to fit link bars. You could do as stated above and sleeve it, and move the diff closer to the passenger side if you wanted to get crazy about custom length axle shafts.
no not crazy same factory
 
Who would you need to trim the passenger side? It seems to have enough tube for you to sleeve it if you wanted.
For the driver side I know everyone cuts 2” to fit link bars. You could do as stated above and sleeve it, and move the diff closer to the passenger side if you wanted to get crazy about custom length axle shafts.
Making the drivers side longer was more in response to making the axle a pass drop instead of driver drop. Of course you could lengthen it to 78-79 axle specs or whatever also.
 
Making the drivers side longer was more in response to making the axle a pass drop instead of driver drop. Of course you could lengthen it to 78-79 axle specs or whatever also.

I'd maybe do F550 length on the short side, then whatever length to get the width you want on the long side. Then you could buy F550 shafts and shorten the long side.
 
Who would you need to trim the passenger side? It seems to have enough tube for you to sleeve it if you wanted.
For the driver side I know everyone cuts 2” to fit link bars. You could do as stated above and sleeve it, and move the diff closer to the passenger side if you wanted to get crazy about custom length axle shafts.

Read the thread title :flipoff2:

I'm guessing maybe just to get enough room to cut, sleeve and weld.
 
Finally got my passenger side drop SD60 together tonight. It's been pretty hot here, so I just did it after sun down. Both side are basically bang on 5.6° of caster. I hope it's enough, should be fine. Width will be right around 67.5. Sorry but not sorry for the potato pic :flipoff2:
 

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Finally got my passenger side drop SD60 together tonight. It's been pretty hot here, so I just did it after sun down. Both side are basically bang on 5.6° of caster. I hope it's enough, should be fine. Width will be right around 67.5. Sorry but not sorry for the potato pic :flipoff2:
What did you set the pinion to?
 
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