DesertCJ
Name of Pheel...
I have friends who have blown off 5000PSI rated hoses with a non-reactive valve.
Pressure relief valves? I admit, I don't have them. I have a load reactive orbital though. I'm sure it's still a good idea...
I have friends who have blown off 5000PSI rated hoses with a non-reactive valve.
I have friends who have blown off 5000PSI rated hoses with a non-reactive valve.
For a trip through the wayback machine, those who remember my vehicular gymnastics at the WERock in Boyd TX... I didn't blow any hydro lines, but I did twist a rear high steer arm (kingpin 60 arm, 3/4" thick, about 2.5" wide) in the process of those two barrel rolls and a most-of backflip. Work line relief valves would have prevented that damage, but "it wasn't that bad".
Interesting
If you figured out what your pressure was in your system while idle, not turning, the back pressure is likely 150-200 psi.
mid you set a small accumulator at say 25psi, and it fills to 150psi, it could take up some slack in throttle lifts. Not much pressure, but flow yes. Even with open Center.
while racing your mostly going to be coming off 3500 or so rpm, 1 maybe two saws at the wheel, then back to WOT. It could make some difference. But the unpredictable nature of once it’s out, then it gets stiff, would concern me.
probably need to place a check valve between pump and any sort of accumulator
Pressure relief valves? I admit, I don't have them. I have a load reactive orbital though. I'm sure it's still a good idea...
yeah that would be a relief situation and not a damper situation
For a trip through the wayback machine, those who remember my vehicular gymnastics at the WERock in Boyd TX... I didn't blow any hydro lines, but I did twist a rear high steer arm (kingpin 60 arm, 3/4" thick, about 2.5" wide) in the process of those two barrel rolls and a most-of backflip. Work line relief valves would have prevented that damage, but "it wasn't that bad".
In my case, it has to deal with rockbouncers. They enter those rocks at a rate of speed that's really rough on components sometimes.
Seems like the PSS accumulator won't help that problem. Working line pressure reliefs are likely the answer.
I would say yes, working line relief would be a good idea in that case. If you're running balanced systems, you can crossport-relieve like HD noted, where your relief on one cylinder line goes to the other cylinder line; if you're running unbalanced, I would think things get a bit more complicated as you'd need to relieve to reservoir and also probably need to include a check valve for a vacuum breaker on each line as well.
Balanced system, yes.
Got a link / pic for a crossport relief valve ?
The aluminum block is a cross port relief body. It has two straight through parallel ports. The two ports are connected by a relief valve only going one way to dump pressure into the other passage way. I am only using one relief valve in the body as the other port is low pressure return. I used it to streamline plumbing rather ran running T's or multiple fittings.
Why aren't you running cross port relief for the cylinder hoses? That looks like pressure relief for the line from the pump to the orbital? What is that accomplishing? Doesn't the pump already have a pressure relief inside the flow control valve?
how is what you have different the what howe/psc offer?
how is what you have different the what howe/psc offer?
Why aren't you running cross port relief for the cylinder hoses? That looks like pressure relief for the line from the pump to the orbital? What is that accomplishing? Doesn't the pump already have a pressure relief inside the flow control valve?
relief between the pump and the steering valve prevents large spikes from blowing up the pump, which can happen if you are relying on the internal (small volume) pump relief that just loops back inside itself.
if you are using a non-regulated pump, then it is required to keep the pump from trying to add pressure to a spike and grenading itself that way.
big, or only, concern with a cross cylinder relief port would be a large hit at high speed turning your tires in (or out) when you don't want or expect them to, and now you'd need to react with steering wheel input that may or may not happen in time.
obviously if something blows up then you've found your limit. set your relief "too high" and something may blow up anyways.
The safest way to set the cross port relief would be to set the pressure to match the hose rating so the hose will not blow out. Granted most hoses are rated 4 times for actual burst pressure. Average hose working pressure would somewhere around 3000 PSI which is nearing the rating of aluminum bodies. I would guess that Sweet valves are even lower pressure rated and if the Sweet valve blows up then your steering is probably a lot worse than having the cylinder bypass a little.
If your steering mechanically breaks then that is also a lot worse than a cylinder bypass.
If you are dropping pressure down for comfort when hitting obstacles then you nearing the point of loosing control of the cylinder too often while not having the pressure high enough to burn up energy for a hard hit. Without burning up the energy at high pressure the cylinder will move too easy and the mechanical stops will take the full hit and possibly break.
Disclosure: I don't have his res. I don't have his system. I do have a (smaller) reservoir using a lot of the same separation dynamics, and I have two pumps feeding off of one res.Soooo, basically there's no need to bleed a system with your resi? Just plumb everything, add fluid and run the pump until it's ready ?
That's how I normally setup systems is with a remote mounted filter inline between the orbital or steering box and the reservoir return port. By doing this, I can let the filter do it's job of solids contamination removal and let the vortex reservoir do its job of de-aeration and fluid circulation.How about running the fluid through the filter first back to the reservoir? Like a Canton style filter.
Soooo, basically there's no need to bleed a system with your resi? Just plumb everything, add fluid and run the pump until it's done?
Miller is sponsored by Howe I think.there was a few years back where miller swapped a pump at the last pit for the finish, make sense now how they can swap the pump and not have any issues. swap pump, dump fluid, peel out.
Correct, you still need to be methodical about the process especially when filling the system for the first time but the process Scott described is all it takes. The pump should be spun slowly to initially fill the system and as he did, a hand drill is ideal for this purpose if you can get one in front of the pump. Make sure to keep the reservoir topped off while the system gets filled and you should be good to go after that.