What's new
By:
Filters

#SteerAndStuff buggy build

Just got back from Sand Hollow, met up with a few guys I've wheeled with before and met some great new guys as well. Thanks to Woody for showing us around a little and giving some good tips and spots. Still getting a feel for the new rig and everything seemed to work really well. Might add a return spring on the throttle since the added motion ratio of the cable peddle gives leverage on the internal spring on the OEM pedal and can get touchy. Also need to address fuel vent as it would burp at some angles. I picked up a GoPro 10 before the trip and let the Qiuk app do an automatic edit on some clips from Dekleined.

 
SteerAndStuff said:
Have only had chance to wheel it once so far, waiting for a few locals to get their rigs back together. We didn't take hardly any pictures either so nothing good to show. It worked really good out of the box, especially with dry, new tires. Not going to water tires till spring since I'll be putting the winter tires on here shortly.
PSC swapped out my CBR pump because half way through the day after steering into a notch hard it started howling super loud and never quieted back down. My feeling is the internal relief opened and stuck and never reseated fully. I ask the gentleman at PSC if that's a viable thought but he was just a salesman and had no tech input but shipped me out a replacement that day.
Also finished up the homemade assembled vehicle title works and got it licensed as a Multi Purpose Vehicle, same license as a side by side here. All that's required is two headlights, two taillights, brake lights, horn, and a mirror and the MPV plate is restricted from operating on interstate highways.
Also drove down to the local truck scale here and weighed the buggy. It came in at 3400 total and 1540 on the rear (equals 1860 front and a 55/45% bias). The truck scales weigh in increments of 20 pounds so a good chance of +/-20ish lbs. Ironically the weight is the same number issued on my license plate.
Found a cooler that fits in my truck area nicely and is a good size for all day wheeling. Its the 20qt Pelican. Also found a 3 gallon Risk Racing fuel can I fit next to the cooler when needed for long snow wheeling days that tend to use more fuel considering the 8 gallon fuel tank on the buggy.
Last thing is the simple side convenx mirror mounts I just finished. Did the same on my old buggy and worked good. Basically just a trick tab with a groove ground out and a piece of tubing with the ID to fit the chassis tube split in half and a wing nut hose clamp and heat shrink. Nice thing is they can be reinstalled with the mirror inside more if needed and easy to loosen and swing in when driving against a wall.

20211107_113133.jpg

20211202_184433.jpg

20211202_184353.jpg

20211204_072921.jpg
Click to expand...
With how much I examined your rig at Sand Hollow, I’m surprised I never noticed the harness shoulder belt hooks before. Haha Your rig has all the little touches. Freakin beautiful build Matt.
 
MattyJ said:
With how much I examined your rig at Sand Hollow, I’m surprised I never noticed the harness shoulder belt hooks before. Haha Your rig has all the little touches. Freakin beautiful build Matt.
Click to expand...
Haha, thank you. Looking at that picture reminds me, I need to get the headrest plates powdered black. Don't like the raw aluminum standing out.
 
Picked up a Midnight Metalworks Rock Box replacement case for the dana 300. Decided not to rush to install before Sand Hollow in case I ran into any issues. Swapping it now and about ready to go test drive. The case is slightly larger than the stock Dana 300 so had to clock front output up about 3/8" higher than before to keep about 1/4" air gap to the skid plate. Had to rework my transfer case shifter linkages and my center console because my mounting bolts ended up in a different set of holes. I messed with the detent springs and got them shifting pretty smooth but it still sluggish because of the new bushings in the case, the more I mess with it the better it is feeling. Will have to modify passenger seat from more than I had before because of the shifter location on the MMW case is right where the seat frame lives. On the stock 300 I just had to put a box in the seat frame previously. Hopefully next weekend do some driving tests.

Attached are a few more comparison pictures of the two cases to show size and orientations.


20220501_190618.jpg

20220429_135624.jpg

20220429_135629.jpg

20220429_135553.jpg
 
Couple updates, I Have added a spring on my throttle pedal, with the added ratio of the drive by cable over wire the throttle was super touchy and would sometimes get sticky since the electric pedal spring had so much leverage against it. Adding this spring gives me a ton more pedal control. In sand hollow it didn't take much buggy movement and would make me blimp the throttle, sometimes when you least wanted it.



Also rebuilt the master cylinder and cutting brakes. On my initial test drive I was testing the cutters and had both pulled hard when all of a sudden they both got loose together and never worked right again. I could hear fluid back feeding the master when I tried to engage them so initially thought something in the master maybe. It's seals looked good so went ahead and pulled the cutter and sure enough both seals had damage. Replaced them and reeled the brakes and ready to try them out again.

Also made see thru panels out of 3/16" thick polycarbonate. Was able to nest 4 panels out of a 4x8 sheet from home depot. Definitely a nice feature to see thru the panels. Did some vinyl wrap to give a little color and style.


20220527_173758.jpg


20220710_122945.jpg


IMG_20220703_095459_595.jpg
 
Little things, picked up a Terapump XL to fit in my 5 gallon fuel jug. So much easier that balancing on rear axle filling the gas tank with the Fuelworx can. Be sure to get the XL version that has the jug cap adapter and longer suction and fill hose.


20221022_090155.jpg
 
Adamwende said:
Any way you could post detailed engine mount pictures? I’m curious how you did it.
Click to expand...
Here is about the best picture I have that shows the engine mounts well. I can't take credit for them, a friend did these on his buggy and I really liked the design so I paid him to cut me a set. The thing I really likes is they are pretty minimal, doubles as accessory drive mounts, in front of engine to don't interfere with exhaust, and once removed to pull engine there is nothing hanging out from chassis to snag on. Wouldn't be hard to add a small poly bushing at the chassis side if someone wants isolated mount as well.

20210316_174857.jpg
 
Nice, I like simplicity. So is your entire drivetrain mounted in a tripod? Two engine mounts, and the one at the trans/tcase?
 
4Low Magazine did a subscriber spotlight on my buggy in this months issue. I do have to correct that I do not own Midnight Metalworks or invent the Rockbox 300, I think they got confused as Rob was supposed to have one of his chassis at that event they initially took clean shots and specs of my rig, although mine does have one of his cases in it. Also my tan color body is to be less seen from a distance. ;)

Be sure to check out the current issue and/or subscribe.

4Low Cover.jpg
 
Finally decided to add an oil accumulator like I had on the last buggy. After an outing a few weeks ago trying good summer wheeling notch line in 30 degree weather with a skim of snow and on my winter PBR tires I slid in and had to get pullout of sideways and backward. With my 3.4 Camaro oil pickup on the 3.9 I have great oil pressure pointing up but not so much when steep down. By the time I would start and assist with my recovery I had ran for a fair amount with little to 0 oil pressure and some loud lifters. I'm using Schaeffers 9000 engine oil that is high in moly that I feel helps with residual protection when no oil being pumped.

I used a Moroso 23676 oil accumulator filter adapter on the engine that is 1.25" thick. To compensate for the adapter I switch from the factory Napa 1522 filter to a Napa 1042 that is 1.125" shorter so the total setup is only 0.125" longer than original filter alone. The adapter has a -10 oring fitting so adapted to -8AN hose so to use same Aeroquip AQP -8 hose as I use for transmission cooler as well as firesleeve over it for heat and abrasion protection. Used a 3qt accusump accumulator with a solenoid valve tied into my fuel pump circuit so when I hit ignition the engine pre-oils when the fuel pump primes then is open when engine is running and closes when engine is off to lock in the full accumulator till next startup.

Because of the size of the accumulator the only spot in belly to fit it is where I originally has the ARB compressor so it got relocated forward more where it could just nest in the boatside in front of the driveshaft carrier bearing. The accumulator is a snug fit to the seat mount tube, t-case, skid, and passenger seat but she fits. Since I had to rewire and replumb the compressor I took the opportunity to change the fittings to allow me to use easy off the shelf 1/4" air line instead of the 5mm stuff from the Yukon Zip locker. The locker bulkhead and the air solenoid use 1/8 BSPT so sourced 1/8 BSPT to 1/4 air line push lock fittings.

Now just need the weather to get back above 0 and get it out and test the new setup.

20230222_134458.jpg


20230222_144325.jpg
 
I really like the idea of pre-oiling. So do you think the accumulator would add enough oil into the pan so it would pump when facing downhill? If not, how does it help? Does the accupump pump oil through the engine or just into the oil pan?
 
white-rhino said:
I really like the idea of pre-oiling. So do you think the accumulator would add enough oil into the pan so it would pump when facing downhill? If not, how does it help? Does the accupump pump oil through the engine or just into the oil pan?
Click to expand...
The accusump has a floating piston inside and I put a 5 psi pre-charge on the air side of the piston. When the engine starts it will pump oil and overcome that 5psi and move that piston back and hold oil in the accumulator until the air side and oil side have equalized pressure. Once buggy gets into position that it will loose oil covering the pickup and starts to pressure drop the air side of the accumulator is now higher PSI and the floating piston pushes oil out of the accumulator and into the engine oil galley to lube the bearings until either it uses up the stored oil or you pickup oil in the pan again. Because the filter has an anti drainback valve the accumulated oil will push forward into the engine oil gally. Had the same accumulator on oil buggy and one instance I ran for around 45 seconds straight on its side and still had oil pressure even though it was lower pressure than normal engine pump operation.
 
Why did you choose 5psi of pre-charge instead of 10 or 15? 5psi of oil pressure isn't much, but for sure better than zero.

Also, do you just overfill your sump by whatever the capacity of the accumulator is? Otherwise I'd expect the sump with normal fill (engine off) would be pretty low on oil after the accumulator fills up.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Why did you choose 5psi of pre-charge instead of 10 or 15? 5psi of oil pressure isn't much, but for sure better than zero.

Also, do you just overfill your sump by whatever the capacity of the accumulator is? Otherwise I'd expect the sump with normal fill (engine off) would be pretty low on oil after the accumulator fills up.
Click to expand...
I choose 5 psi to give me the most amount of oil in the accumulator at any given time. Since we live just off idle most the time I don't see the need for higher push back into engine but rather more volume for longer run time when the vehicle is upset. I ran last buggy at same 5 psi and worked good, could run for a long period.

Pretty much, overfill engine a couple quarts over full and start rig and let accumulator fill then shut off and trap that oil in accumulator and check oil level again and adjust as needed. I typically run engine a quart or so over on the dipstick anyways just for our applications.
 
The other benefit to an accumulator is when at higher rpm’s the oil will be pumped out of the pan and into the accumulator to store, so the pan oil level is correct for reduced crank windage. When the motor is off axis and the pump is sucking air and pressure is dropping the accumulator will start to over fill the pan until there is enough volume for the pump pickup tube to be submerged.
 
I am in love with this build. I have a bunch of newbie questions I hope you don't mind me asking.....

I'm a Toyota guy so I love the diff choice, but I have to wonder....it looks like these portals are the 2 gear kind that require the flipped diff. Why the Toyota 8" over the 9.5" Land Cruiser or even more common and stronger Ford 9"? Is it mostly to get the smaller pumpkin?

What about gear ratio on your 3rd member....I believe these are Hummer portal based so (from what I can tell 1.8:1 reduction in the boxes themselves)?

Now for the even more odd question: So when you flip the diff.....are you now driving on the drive side of the gear in a front diff application (assuming you used a standard Toyota rear 3rd)?
 
Most of why the smaller ring gear and driving on coast size are negated because of the downstream 1.92:1 gearing in the portal box. Using the 8" toyota stuff is small so less clearance loss under 3rd. With 4.88s in the 3rd and the portal gearing the axle is at like 9.37:1 so super low and hence why using the overdrive 700R4.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh