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Sore Dick Deals

PAToyota said:
If you haven't seen the banner on their website, Harbor Freight has deals on their ICON boxes that were damaged in shipping: Scratch and Dent Sale - Harbor Freight Tools

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If you want a roll cab, you pretty much have to haunt the site because they go quickly. The top boxes and overhead cabinets are fairly frequently available. The end cabinets a little less so.

They rate them as Excellent (minor scuffs), Great (minor scratches and dents), and Good (moderate scratches and dents) and some of them are missing items, but they're 30% to 45% off and they describe and photograph the damage. If I was in the market, I'd take 30% off for minor scuffs and would consider 45% off for moderate scratches and dents - a lot of the time it's on the back or sides anyway.

This is from a top chest at 45% off that I saw - damaged top corner, scuffs on top, and dented back panel:


Chances are that you won't even notice the top corner of a top chest in your shop, put down a rubber mat to cover the scuffs, and you'll never see the dented back panel.
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Along this vein, sometimes the stores themselves have scratch and dent models. It's worth asking.

I got my us general boxes from a store when I tried to buy one new. The store had a scratch and dent 56" top box and the largest rolling bottom box with the keys missing (locked) together for the price of a single 56" top box. Smokin deal imo.
 
AlxJ64 said:
I don't know how they can mfg and sell that thing for the price. The piece of material needed to machine the shells from would cost half that these days. I understand its scale based and import labor but sheesh. I hope that the shells are actually decent steel.
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Can someone confirm the construction of the Vevor shells? From the pictures/video, they don't quite look machined? Forming or casting them would be cheaper, but may be a longevity issue.
 
RunningProblem said:
www.yukongear.com

The Yukon Carrier Bearing Puller | YT P22 | Yukon Gear & Axle

These bearing pullers simplify bearing removal for those without a press. They feature different clamshell sizes and will work on 1-ton applications including Dana 70HD, Dana 80, Ford 10.25 & 10.5, or GM & Chrysler 11.5. No returns.
www.yukongear.com www.yukongear.com

Yukon’s website doesn’t list the Sterling 10.25 or 10.5 rear end as a possible option their tool works on. They list the Extra Large clamshell as being 6”x6”x3” and the Vevor one only says 4.45”. I assume Vevor is a typo. A buddy has the Yukon puller so I’ll see if he will take measurements of the parts for his.

edit: this YouTube guy apparently owns it and is using the white cup on the sterling 10.5.

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I've helped set up both the 10.25 and 10.5 with the Yukon. Pretty sure then knock offs are identical.
 
Ford Sterling 10.25 factory carrier bearing measures about 3.8” and the race measures 4.125”. So perhaps the larger 4” clamshell measurement is correct, and it’s just deeper or something. Mine should be here soon if someone else doesn’t post measurement photos and start a new thread.

1675140621320.jpeg
 
If I think of it tonight, I'll go slap my Vevor on one of the 10.25 carriers in the garage...

Here are some of a 10.25 pinion.

10.25puller1.jpg


10.25puller2.jpg


10.25puller3.jpg


10.25puller4.jpg


10.25puller5.jpg
 
I didn't realize the cups engage on the cage of the bearing. I've always been taught that's a no-no if you intend to reuse them.
 
I haven't done it, but I've read that most people pull on the cage without a problem. The cups grab uniformly, so the cage isn't deformed like a 3-jaw puller would. Cage -> rollers -> race load path...
 
I'm thinking more for d60 diffs where you have to press on and pull off the carrier bearing multiple times to make the shims right.

I've got a setup bearing, but not everyone does.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I've got a setup bearing, but not everyone does.
Click to expand...

But they should....

How else do you remove a bearing that sits on a shoulder that's the same size or larger than the inner race?



I had a bigger problem with the 10.5 we were setting up a couple weekends ago and we're we're having to hammer the yoke on and off. I'm way more comfortable with pulling against the race vs. beating the shit out of the race with a hammer via the pinon.
 
Huh. One of the small ones fits if you lose the outer race. Still barely grabs the inner race, though.

20230131_195433.jpg


20230131_195459.jpg
 
RunningProblem said:
www.yukongear.com

The Yukon Carrier Bearing Puller | YT P22 | Yukon Gear & Axle

These bearing pullers simplify bearing removal for those without a press. They feature different clamshell sizes and will work on 1-ton applications including Dana 70HD, Dana 80, Ford 10.25 & 10.5, or GM & Chrysler 11.5. No returns.
www.yukongear.com www.yukongear.com

Yukon’s website doesn’t list the Sterling 10.25 or 10.5 rear end as a possible option their tool works on. They list the Extra Large clamshell as being 6”x6”x3” and the Vevor one only says 4.45”. I assume Vevor is a typo. A buddy has the Yukon puller so I’ll see if he will take measurements of the parts for his.

edit: this YouTube guy apparently owns it and is using the white cup on the sterling 10.5.

Click to expand...


Video dude: "I had to grind out the inside of the shell to fit over the bearing."

He was pulling on the cage.

Screenshot 2023-01-31 at 21-11-07 VEVOR Carrier & Pinion Bearing puller review.png
 
bgaidan said:
But they should....

How else do you remove a bearing that sits on a shoulder that's the same size or larger than the inner race?
Click to expand...
You're right, you can't. I just didn't realize it was safe to pull on the bearing cage with this tool.
 
The Vevor works for Ford Sterling 10.25 carrier bearings. You have to ‘give her the beans’ though.

image.jpg
 
Can we get back to deals and stop talking about a bunch of guys trying to get their bearing off and playing with their shafts?
 
kf4zht said:
And to not be a hipocrite

Decent deal, they dont go on sale often: https://www.amazon.com/VT-001-SS-Aluminum-Resistance-Silicone-soldering/dp/B0849MCLDW

Good size vs power, short enough when you are trying to work on something in a cabinet or not on a bench.
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I've been pleased with this one, bought it to replace my 10+ year old Radio Shack brand one. Radio Shack one had a plastic plunger end. After years of sucking, it stripped the plastic threads off and shot the plunger across the room. I went on the hunt for an all metal replacement, and settled on this. It happens to be on sale too.

 
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