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Sore Dick Deals

In what year?

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This one the value starts they’re 69 now it appears only see a group 35 though but would probably work
 
Walmart every day for 50.

Don’t get too excited they are crap . Any of those cheap trans jacks are flimsy and hydraulically Jack to about 4 foot off the ground it seems and you’ve got to lower the truck half a mile to get the damn thing rested on the transmission pan . I’d damn near give the cheap one I bought away I picked up from northern tool when I first got my lift .
And even if they do go high enough, the valve to lower them is a fucking lever that swings side to side down on the cylinder, not a pedal like normal. We just got a couple at work and they're awkward as fuck to use any time you have something that has to do anything but go straight down out of the vehicle.
 
And even if they do go high enough, the valve to lower them is a fucking lever that swings side to side down on the cylinder, not a pedal like normal. We just got a couple at work and they're awkward as fuck to use any time you have something that has to do anything but go straight down out of the vehicle.
Exxxxxactly!
 
So whats a good one?
Well these are my favorite, anything but a sore dick deal though, looks like they're getting around $3k for them now.


Really to get a good one new anymore you're 1000-1500 minimum to have a 2 stage and a foot pedal for the lowering valve or a valve on the head like the Gray.
 
Nope. Another wired unit. No clue why, as all I requested was my $150 rebate and the $100 Warn credit.
Got a e-mail from Warn asking how many winches I purchased. They wanted to know how many remotes to send me.

I only filled out the credit and rebate forms.
 
Got a e-mail from Warn asking how many winches I purchased. They wanted to know how many remotes to send me.

I only filled out the credit and rebate forms.

I wonder if they fucked up on putting the $100 credit slip on some of the boxes and now have no idea what they're doing.

It looked like the original intent was if you get the original remote and had to disable the wireless part yourself, they'd give you the credit. The one I got came with the "new" wired remote that didn't have any trace of the wireless control in it.
 
I wonder if they fucked up on putting the $100 credit slip on some of the boxes and now have no idea what they're doing.

It looked like the original intent was if you get the original remote and had to disable the wireless part yourself, they'd give you the credit. The one I got came with the "new" wired remote that didn't have any trace of the wireless control in it.
Did you ever figure out if that winch has an old fashioned albright contactor, or more stupid circuit board bullshit?
 
Coupon is auto applied on their website. Somehow Harbor Freight can ship a floor jack to me for $6.99, I decided it was well worth $6.99 to not have to be around people.

 
Did you ever figure out if that winch has an old fashioned albright contactor, or more stupid circuit board bullshit?
I haven't opened mine up any further but from the pic someone posted earlier, it looks like it just a simple 3 wire contactor.
 
Did you ever figure out if that winch has an old fashioned albright contactor, or more stupid circuit board bullshit?
It has both. Stupid circuit board controls the Albright.

Looks to me that you could ditch the controller and go to an old style remote with just the contactor.

Mine just showed up...

Obligatory box photo:
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Didn't have the paper inside about the $100 store credit. :confused:


Plug is the same proprietary plug as the old remotes. Remote for my old 9.5k on left, Evo on right:
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I tried probing the plug to see if I could figure out the pinout. On the old style, it's pretty simple - power (or ground?) comes in on one pin and then goes out on one of two pins for in/out....which just activate your solenoids. I think the two other wires in the 5-pin plug are for the thermal protection built in to some of the winches....I ripped all that shit out and replaced the solenoids with a contactor on mine, so it only uses the 3 wires.

New remote, I couldn't find any continuity between any of the pins with buttons pressed.....


So I did what any reasonable idiot would do to a brand new toy....opened it up to see how it works. :laughing:

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Dumb and completely unnecessary circuit board.
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Gonna have to unbox the rest of the winch and power it up to see exactly what's going on here. I'm assuming it's just 12v coming in on the red/black, but I'm curious if it's a simple 12v out or if it's lower voltage and there's another brain box in the winch itself that gets that signal. If it's the latter, it'll rule out using any 3rd part remote.

So far it looks entirely unnecessarily complicated. :shaking:

I'm guessing they did it this way to intentionally make sure the accessories from higher end winches wouldn't work on these.

 
It has both. Stupid circuit board controls the Albright.

Looks to me that you could ditch the controller and go to an old style remote with just the contactor.
Thanks, I missed that post.
Nice to know you can fuck around with it, I don't know how many times I've ran my winch with just a jumper wire because I lost or forgot my remote (or was too lazy to dig it out).
 
Today's deal at Harbor Freight is 20% off your entire ICON purchase:

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Also today is the last day for the 30% off of five items $10 and under - or $20 and under if you're an ITC member.

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Also a few other discounts:

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Be careful if you're trying to combine different offers. I had a couple ICON items that were $20 and under and others that were over $20, so the under $20 items should have gotten the 30% discount, but the register tried to just give them the 20% ICON discount. I ended up having to do two separate transactions - one with the 20% ICON coupon for the higher priced items and a second one with the 30% $20 and under ITC price.

Also, the cashier tried to scan the 30% off coupon and then the register just wanted to apply it to the $10 and under items. If you're an ITC member, they don't have to scan the coupon. It should just give you the 30% off for being an ITC member.
 
I've got a Porter Cable pancake that's like Rick's butter robot, it's only job in life is to lend to the neighbors so they quit bringing their junk to me to air up. Other than that I haven't had an oil less compressor in 20+ years, before I knew any better. Have they improved? I had a 20 gal, upright Craftsman that would wake the dead and ran so hot it eventually melted itself.
 
The best! I did a engine swap a few years ago with my BIL and did not use a single air tool. It was awesome and I no longer want to plumb my shop with air because I don't care or need it! I now have a few hundred feet of copper pipe now which from what I paid I think is worth quite a bit more.
Imo battery powered tools have replaced 99% of air powered tools. The only things I use my compressor for is blasting, the big 1in impact, painting, blowing things off and die grinders.
 
trans jack for under $132. Yes it's Chinese. But if you have a lift in your shop it's probably worth it! On sale through the weekend

Don’t get too excited they are crap . Any of those cheap trans jacks are flimsy and hydraulically Jack to about 4 foot off the ground it seems and you’ve got to lower the truck half a mile to get the damn thing rested on the transmission pan . I’d damn near give the cheap one I bought away I picked up from northern tool when I first got my lift .

Mine was delivered and I found some time to put it together. Although it mostly goes together in a straightforward manner, there are no assembly instructions and you have to look at the online pictures on a few things to figure out assembly. I have to take the legs and casters back apart and reverse them. Images online show them either way, but reversing them will gain two more inches of height and have less interference between the casters and legs.

The only other issue I had was that the leg bolts are 12mm socket head cap screws. It seems a lot of basic sets only go to 10mm, so I had to pick up a 12mm hex socket. I'm also a bit concerned about these fasteners loosening up from squeezing the tube. I'll probably sleeve the holes just to be on the safe side.

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With the two stage mast, it lifts to 5'-6" (5'-8" once I reverse the legs and casters). As you can see in the photos, it's about six inches shy of the bottom of the transmission with the car at the highest point on the lift, but I don't see bringing the car down one notch as being an issue.

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The base is fairly heavy and stable, but I think I'm going to gusset the cradle assembly a few places. For being rated at 0.6 ton, I do have some questions about having a fullsize pickup/SUV transmission or trans/t-case on it. I need to experiment with that and report back.

And even if they do go high enough, the valve to lower them is a fucking lever that swings side to side down on the cylinder, not a pedal like normal. We just got a couple at work and they're awkward as fuck to use any time you have something that has to do anything but go straight down out of the vehicle.

Yeah, I can't say I'm excited about that. Particularly with it all the way up, there is no way you can control that valve and steady the transmission at the same time. It's going to be a two man operation. If I were doing this regularly I'd want better control. For the infrequent use I'll make of it, I think this will be more than worth the $100 I put towards it.
 
I stepped around the box for my transmission jack this weekend. Didn't have the gumption to assemble it.
 
It goes together pretty quickly - except for the pause until I got around to picking up a 12mm hex socket...

And, as I said, I now need to reverse the casters from this:
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To this:
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Looking at the two photos like that, I now see the first version doesn't have the wheel locks and I've found that they bind with the legs if you set them up the first way.
 
Also, one of the other guys at the shop said he paid more than twice what I paid for one of this style and mine looks to be multiple times better.

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That is the style I unfortunately have . Yours does look much better but also looks flimsy in areas and some of the same pain points such as the manual adjustments on top . However , wonderful review and appears to be a great buy .
 
Yeah, obviously at this kind of price there are going to be limitations. But for $100~$132 there isn't a lot of room to complain. As mentioned, I'm going to make a couple modifications to it that I think will help a bit. The release lever is likely to be the most critical point because there isn't much one can do to change that.
 
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