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Slowpoke attempts to kill himself in a golfcart!

That sounds like a hell of a plan.

How long until you start chopping? I have been wanting to make these in 1.5"! I haven't used them very much yet to see if they are even worth the time it takes to print.

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They have two bubble levels on them, 1" top boss, and the straight sides match the tubing OD. I THINK it might make measuring a little easier, rather than trying to eyeball the tape on the tangent of the tube.
 
And, someone would probably love to buy your current stuff. It is a sweet looking car!!!

Unfortunately the cage that's on it now is part of the chassis and cutting it off would basically ruin it. If I could find someone willing to swap chassis and some cash with me for a stock Talon R chassis I'd be all over it. New they are $5k so that's not even an option.
 
The good thing, and the reason I'm considering this is because racing doesn't start until the end of May and I'm bored as fuck, so why not.
Before I answered Good Idea or Bad Idea, I was going to ask when the the first race was. But then I remembered it's KOH crunch time, so deadlines don't matter. Get to cuttin' and weldern'!
 
You can borrow my JD2 model32 1.5" die and JD2 notch master notcher.

The notcher is on loan now but he's almost done with it.
 
That sounds like a hell of a plan.

How long until you start chopping? I have been wanting to make these in 1.5"! I haven't used them very much yet to see if they are even worth the time it takes to print.

SAdtr3MhdZqot83urz9E=w719-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


They have two bubble levels on them, 1" top boss, and the straight sides match the tubing OD. I THINK it might make measuring a little easier, rather than trying to eyeball the tape on the tangent of the tube.
You don't use the little digital level boxes?
Those bubble levels would be nice for regular on plane bends.

This is what I use, diy version of course.
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You can borrow my JD2 model32 1.5" die and JD2 notch master notcher.

The notcher is on loan now but he's almost done with it.

Thanks for the offer!

I have a Pro-Tools One Shot bender and I doubt the JD2 die will fit. It would probably work in my home made 180° bender though. I'll keep you in mind if I have any issue getting my die from Pro-Tools.

I ordered the exact same notcher along with the Swag reach around and GOAT last night Hopefully the JD2 website is off by a few weeks and it's not going to take 3-4 weeks to get the notcher. If so, I may take you up on that offer if it doesn't come in on time.
 
Thanks for the offer!

I have a Pro-Tools One Shot bender and I doubt the JD2 die will fit. It would probably work in my home made 180° bender though. I'll keep you in mind if I have any issue getting my die from Pro-Tools.

I ordered the exact same notcher along with the Swag reach around and GOAT last night Hopefully the JD2 website is off by a few weeks and it's not going to take 3-4 weeks to get the notcher. If so, I may take you up on that offer if it doesn't come in on time.

It's here just collecting dust. I have the swag arm and homemade GOAT. The arm is really nice to have.
 
I was just glancing at the 2024 rules and came across their per round payout sheet........

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$1500 to win an amateur class (VET40+) and Honda paying $200 contingency for per round for a win is pretty decent money to race a golf cart!
None too shabby, assuming they payout of course. During the Dave/MAO public statement battles, I saw several different U4 racers commenting on not being paid from MAO/Ultra4USA.
 
These are the two Talons I've been staring at the past few months getting ideas from and want to redo my chassis combining ideas from both of these builds.......

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That Hess Motorsports car in the last picture is trick as fuck. Notice the shock tower sticking through the hood and how narrow the car looks? They moved the driver over to the right almost a foot, made the cage much lower and narrower and dropped the body waaay down. The radiator is also in the passenger seat area above the fuel tank for better weight distribution side to side. That car just doesn't have enough cage for me and I think it needs a cage more like the car in the first picture.
 
That Hess Motorsports car in the last picture is trick as fuck. Notice the shock tower sticking through the hood and how narrow the car looks? They moved the driver over to the right almost a foot, made the cage much lower and narrower and dropped the body waaay down. The radiator is also in the passenger seat area above the fuel tank for better weight distribution side to side. That car just doesn't have enough cage for me and I think it needs a cage more like the car in the first picture.
Pretty cool stuff, but agreed on not having enough cage for my liking either.

Other than a minimum weight, I assume there aren’t any restrictions in your class in terms of chopping up the body etc?
 
Picked up all new safety gear for the new race season at the Smiley's Racing Products pre-season sales event that started yesterday. I ended up saving 20% on the Nexgen and saved 25% on the K2 suite, gloves and shoes. It hurt the wallet but is what it is.......

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I was browsing FB Marketplace the other night and came across a set of Longacre race scales that had just been posted and for a great price so I messaged them hoping they were not spoken for already......


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They were not, and I picked them up this morning. I weighed the car as raced last season so I have a base line to compare what it weights after I put all the lightweight parts on it and pull some more weight out of it. These numbers are with me in it and the car full of fuel.

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I need to loose about 85lbs to be at minimum race weight and I need to figure out how to take most of it off the left side, particularly the left rear.
 
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Still plugging away at it......

Ordered up a set of Keizer Wheels without beadlocks for the front that's going to save me 3.5lbs per wheel. They are build to order so I won't be seeing them for a few weeks.

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I also ordered titanium beadlock hardware for the rear wheels that save me another 1/2 pound per wheel. I think taking another 8lbs total from the rotating weight side of things should help some. :smokin:
 
Also, I think I'm going to go to my first race of the season on March 30th. The Texas Outlaw Series has a new facility up in Bowie, TX and as much as I'm not a fan of the owner or politics involved with the series (and no fawkin payouts) I need the seat time so I'm going to take advantage of it.
 
Chasing those ounces to turn into pounds :smokin:

Yep, I also forgot to mention that I ordered a 2.5lb Antigravity lithium battery last night to replace the 14lb battery that's in it now. Getting the car down to 1650lbs shouldn't be a problem.

Getting it balanced better left to right is my only real concern at the moment. I may experiment with adding weight to the right side of the car to get the left and right percentages as close to 50/50 as possible and see if it handles better than it being left side heavy but at the 1650lb minimum weight. My mind tells me that being slightly heavier than 1650lbs but balanced side to side will be the way to go...

Now that the weather is warming up I'm motivated to work on it again so things should start happening quickly.
 
And this 4 x 10 sheet of black aluminum somehow ended up in the back of my truck while I was there also. :laughing: I'm going to make a new lighter roof, possibly doors and some new interior panels under and in front of the seat so I can get the computers and wiring out of there, drop the new seat down a few more inches and then move all the stuff that was previously under the seat waaaaay over to the right side.....

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