Skittles aka: Timber Tiger

[Mr Stubs]

Just read through all 16 pages, enjoyed the tech info with the build updates along the way. Nice work on the rig too.

What size ori's do you run?

And you mentioned you were actually considering a wider WMS, what widths would you pick if you were to do it all over?

I have 14” ORI’s.

As for WMS? That is so dependent on location and capability of your rig, it makes it truthfully hard to answer.

Crawling terrain...
Tire size..
Tire width..
Steering ability..
Trailer width..

There is no right answer

 

[Wuz-A-zuk]

I have 14” ORI’s.

As for WMS? That is so dependent on location and capability of your rig, it makes it truthfully hard to answer.

Crawling terrain...
Tire size..
Tire width..
Steering ability..
Trailer width..

There is no right answer

I get all that, I was more asking your personal 2¢ on your own buggy lol...I saw video of tight trails with trees and pics with open rock trails where width looked like it would come in handy. I was just curious what number you would go with now since you said more would be nice.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I have 14” ORI’s.

As for WMS? That is so dependent on location and capability of your rig, it makes it truthfully hard to answer.

Crawling terrain...
Tire size..
Tire width..
Steering ability..
Trailer width..

There is no right answer

Seems like the pnw, maybe slightly narrower is better for maneuvering through trees. But I can definitely see how wider would help in sand hollow. I like your idea of just running wheel spacers just when you go there. I don't see the extra scrub causing issues with the weight your at.

I think a lot of people dismiss backspacing more than they should when talking wms. Outside of tire to outside of tire, I was slightly wider with 2.5" bs on an FJ80 (63.5) than I was with 4. 75 bs and a gm 60 (69.5") the 2.5" bs wheels were only a little wider as well as the tires.

Anyway, are we done with the derails?

 

[Mr Stubs]

Rolled out this Ol’ girl to see if I remembered how to bend tube.

Sleeved some 1.50 with 1.25 for the extra thickness.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Not sure what others do but this is how I keep my bends in the same plane.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Spent a bunch of time messing around with this. I would have liked to have attached it lower on the housing tube but I messed up and cut my pieces just a touch to short.

Oh well, It will work the way it is. It’s heavy tacked and now I can start on the skid and ram mounts.

 

[Mr Stubs]

I had a good friend turn down some tube for my ram cradles. Then I began to do what I’m good at... hacking up perfectly good stuff to make something else.

Got out the trusty bandsaw that never cuts straight and used it to make some angled cuts.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Got both ends finished.

 

[00nissanguy]

Not sure what others do but this is how I keep my bends in the same plane.

Here's how I did mine. Old vice grips with a plate welded to them

 

[Mr Stubs]

Removed the breather that was located in the housing tube. Cut down a bolt, threaded it in and welded the hole shut.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Breather got relocated up into the center section of the housing.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Had to cut off my load bolt protector for a second to be able to install set screws for my axle seals. Ended up using a 10-32 set screw for both sides.

 

[vetteboy79]

Looks like you're going to be flinging oil directly at that breather when the diff is rotating. Maybe throw a baffle of sorts in there while it's apart?

 

[Mr Stubs]

Looks like you're going to be flinging oil directly at that breather when the diff is rotating. Maybe throw a baffle of sorts in there while it's apart?

Thanks for the idea, never thought about that.

I didn’t have very many places that relocating the breather would work.

 

[Wuz-A-zuk]

Do you use a setup bar for all and any welding on your housings? Do you have aluminum pucks or anything? I'm looking at the last few pics and don't see any pucks in the inner seal area, just curious, I've always wondered what guys with removable 3rds do compared to when I see something like a dana 60 with aluminum pucks bolted into the carrier bearing area.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Do you use a setup bar for all and any welding on your housings? Do you have aluminum pucks or anything? I'm looking at the last few pics and don't see any pucks in the inner seal area, just curious, I've always wondered what guys with removable 3rds do compared to when I see something like a dana 60 with aluminum pucks bolted into the carrier bearing area.

I had another piece of tube machined down that could have went through the spool in my third but I didn’t use it.

Truthfully I don’t know if a alignment bar is really needed when you sweat fit on the C’s (never used one for my front when I built it and didn’t use it on this one either). You sweat fit on a set of C’s and it’s all you can do to get them on in the right location in the small amount of time allowed.

I think they are required when building the axles that have C’s that get tapped on.

 

[Wilson]

Do you use a setup bar for all and any welding on your housings? Do you have aluminum pucks or anything? I'm looking at the last few pics and don't see any pucks in the inner seal area, just curious, I've always wondered what guys with removable 3rds do compared to when I see something like a dana 60 with aluminum pucks bolted into the carrier bearing area.

it is the same for all housing types. “Straight” should be referenced through the bearing journals. The bar that I used had pucks that bolted into the main caps, then you drop the third in, and the bar should slide through. The bar is a reference tool and should not be used as a fixture to “hold things straight” while you weld. The bar can get stuck in the housing.

This was a brand new f9 housing from Currie, after then before straightening.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Worked on my CAD skills..

 

[Mr Stubs]

Still have a little bit of fine tuning but for the most part I’m in a holding pattern waiting for my AR plate to show up.

 

[Aisin]

Nice work man.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

This was a brand new f9 housing from Currie, after then before straightening.

I remember you posting pictures of that on the old site. Im still shocked that for the kind of money the charge for housings that something like that is acceptable to let out the door.

 

[WaterH]

I was wondering how that was getting mounted. Looks good.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Made my lower link mounts. Used 1/4 for the sides and 3/16 AR for the bottom.

 

[Adamwende]

That ram mount is some pimp juice if I’ve ever seen some. 🤘

let’s see your dual propane line setup.

 

[Mr Stubs]

That ram mount is some pimp juice if I’ve ever seen some. 🤘

let’s see your dual propane line setup.

I have this ball valve setup between the seats. Each line goes to one of the two tanks with them both opened. As one tank runs out I close that valve and then open the other. If I leave both valves open then the two tanks will equalize between the two.

 

[Gotpropane]

Good to see this again! Hows things?

 

[Mr Stubs]

Good to see this again! Hows things?

Things have been good, missed ya last TH.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Finally got the final burn in. Had a hell of a time with porosity in two areas. I spent hours grinding it out in one tight spot. Four shitty passes and grinding each one till I finally got a good weld.

 

[Mr Stubs]

Link tabs heavy tacked on and shock tabs are next on the list.

I made some adjustable lower links for my mock up. I had to go inboard from my last link tab location so they will be a bit shorter and I need to make sure that I don’t rub my links while turning.

 

[Mr Stubs]

1” dom sleeves 3/4” heim joints great. Tack welded the jam nuts on and made up my mock up tie rods.

Looks like it’s time to trim the stops...