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Skidsteer knowledge needed

No rocks around you I suppose, this area is nothing but rocks. I knew a few operators who really took care of his they ran their machines but still never saw 2,000 hours out of tires. Mid to northern Missouri is dirt farm land and machines I saw traded in from up there had oddball tires on them most of the time.

Same with rubber tracks. Most I saw on a set of those was pushing 1,500 hours.
Got 1800 hrs on 1st set of tracks. Still easily 75% tread, but cables broke in one and kept coming off. Ended up doing both while at it. Also needed idler bearings.

We expected at least 3000hrs on them.
 
And there we have it folks, the best of the best for under $10k. Now, no worries, you’ll have $20k in one of them in no time so you’ll have that feel good going for you, plus think of all the new parts you have in them that you won’t have to re replace very soon. Happy skidding.


You can always find overpriced trash because that shit sits around on the market forever not selling because it's overpriced for what it is.

Being so stupid as to think the existence of overpriced trash implies much of anything about what's selling does not hurt nearly enough in this day and age.

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And there we have it folks, the best of the best for under $10k. Now, no worries, you’ll have $20k in one of them in no time so you’ll have that feel good going for you, plus think of all the new parts you have in them that you won’t have to re replace very soon. Happy skidding.
Man... I guess I stole mine at $4k in 2021.:homer:

Had less than 900 hours on it, too.:smokin:

The first 4 are from the sales ad. The last one is me using it after I got out of the hospital to clear fallen trees.

Costs so far:

$4k purchase
I didn't track the cost of the oil changes.
$80 for hydro filters, $30 for air filter, $8 for another oil filter at the same time.
$230 for Pertronix electronic ignition distributor conversion.
Unknown cost at shop right now for new hydro lines, change to Hi-Gard Low-Viscosity oil, and fabricate new fuel sender float.

I also put on a set of LED cube work lamps to replace the original incandescents (along with adding one in the rear) that I had laying around leftover from past projects, so I'm in those for nothing but time. A far cry from $20k.

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Mine had some sort of seat pressure switch on it I suppose. I dunno. someone wire nutted the wires together long before I bought it. Then I took that shit off of there, shortened up the wires back to the harness and properly soldered them together! :lmao: Fuck that safety Nancy bullshit!
Yeah, that’s what all those idiots say when off roading without wearing their seat belt too… until they get killed. Then it’s all - WTF wasn’t he wearing his seat belt?

I’m here because of a ROPS and a seat belt on a John Deere 5400 4 wheel drive tractor. But you do you.
 
Before Cat released high flow and two speed on their track machines we were installing Loegering VTS systems on 248B machines so customers could run mulchers and not get stuck. The dealer I was at pushed the Loftness Timberax which seemed to work very well at the time with Cats XPS system.


We looked at that system and another one that was out there at the time too and decided against it. The case dealership used the loeggering track system on their machines. It turned into a nightmare for them and case wouldn’t warranty the machine failures.

The front idler on the track I think spun free with bearings in the idler hub from the front drive axle. It was that or they had to remove the front drive chain to run the track system. A bit fuzzy on that part. Either way, the rear axle was the main drive for the track system. This put a tremendous load and stress on that drivetrain and drive motor. It started off good for the case dealership but soon turned into a huge $$$$$ mess and a bunch of pissed off customers who lost a bunch of money. They wanted me to trade that shit in on a Deere. Nope I wanted no part of it at all.
 
Man... I guess I stole mine at $4k in 2021.:homer:

Had less than 900 hours on it, too.:smokin:

The first 4 are from the sales ad. The last one is me using it after I got out of the hospital to clear fallen trees.

Costs so far:

$4k purchase
I didn't track the cost of the oil changes.
$80 for hydro filters, $30 for air filter, $8 for another oil filter at the same time.
$230 for Pertronix electronic ignition distributor conversion.
Unknown cost at shop right now for new hydro lines, change to Hi-Gard Low-Viscosity oil, and fabricate new fuel sender float.

I also put on a set of LED cube work lamps to replace the original incandescents (along with adding one in the rear) that I had laying around leftover from past projects, so I'm in those for nothing but time. A far cry from $20k.

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If you have patience to look for a long time or get lucky to find a good deal it can happen

Your machine has no industry value at all sorry to say. No contractor or business owner will buy it. Its value is for a guy like you that doesn’t want to spend much money on a machine to move dirt or gravel around the house or property and it beats a shovel. But you’re not going to go out using it on everyday jobs. Personally that machine to me is a $2k max value. The only attachment you can use on it is a bucket.
 
Got 1800 hrs on 1st set of tracks. Still easily 75% tread, but cables broke in one and kept coming off. Ended up doing both while at it. Also needed idler bearings.

We expected at least 3000hrs on them.
What machine are you running? Why would an idler go out so soon? Where are you using this machine to expect 3000 hours out of a set of tracks?
 
You can always find overpriced trash because that shit sits around on the market forever not selling because it's overpriced for what it is.

Being so stupid as to think the existence of overpriced trash implies much of anything about what's selling does not hurt nearly enough in this day and age.

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For me, I stay away from things like that as it’s a money pit for a low performing machine when it is up and running. Hard to find or expensive parts when you do find them. Hydraulic pumps, drive motors or steering clutches are deal killers if bad as those repairs will out value it big time.

Look, I’m not suggesting you not go out and buy stuff like this if it’s what you want to do. You’ll never convince me of it’s worth ever as I’d rent a machine before considering dealing with an old obsolete machine like these that in my mind, should be sold for scrap. That’s all I see when I look at that equipment - well the bobcat looks pretty clean and not abused and may be worth peeking at, but not that yellow pos. But you do you and if it makes you happy, more power to ya.
 
If you have patience to look for a long time or get lucky to find a good deal it can happen

Your machine has no industry value at all sorry to say. No contractor or business owner will buy it. Its value is for a guy like you that doesn’t want to spend much money on a machine to move dirt or gravel around the house or property and it beats a shovel. But you’re not going to go out using it on everyday jobs. Personally that machine to me is a $2k max value. The only attachment you can use on it is a bucket.
I guess I should throw the forks away, eh? After all, its not like I don't lift things up to my loft on them regularly, or drape the chain over the forks when pulling an engine because its easier than the cherry picker.
 
I guess I should throw the forks away, eh? After all, its not like I don't lift things up to my loft on them regularly, or drape the chain over the forks when pulling an engine because its easier than the cherry picker.
It’s uncommon to see older machines with forks and depending on how old it is, the bucket may be pinned to the unit. I think that old Deere used a single center pin for the quick tatch.

If it works for you, that’s great. But I’ve already explained the market for stuff like this. Get mad at me all you want but it is what it is. It’s no different than other antique equipment out there. They end up being used or setting in the weeds on someone’s property. Antique farm tractors or construction equipment. We have some older AG tractors we use on our farm. We will keep them maintained and use them just to maintain the farm (the fields are leaded out to a working farmer) but once an engine or drivetrain fails and will cost a lot of money to repair, it’ll be sold off and we’ll get another newer used tractor to replace it.
 
It’s uncommon to see older machines with forks and depending on how old it is, the bucket may be pinned to the unit. I think that old Deere used a single center pin for the quick tatch.

If it works for you, that’s great. But I’ve already explained the market for stuff like this. Get mad at me all you want but it is what it is. It’s no different than other antique equipment out there. They end up being used or setting in the weeds on someone’s property. Antique farm tractors or construction equipment. We have some older AG tractors we use on our farm. We will keep them maintained and use them just to maintain the farm (the fields are leaded out to a working farmer) but once an engine or drivetrain fails and will cost a lot of money to repair, it’ll be sold off and we’ll get another newer used tractor to replace it.
Yes, its a single center pin. No, I'm not mad.
 
For me, I stay away from things like that as it’s a money pit for a low performing machine when it is up and running. Hard to find or expensive parts when you do find them. Hydraulic pumps, drive motors or steering clutches are deal killers if bad as those repairs will out value it big time.

Look, I’m not suggesting you not go out and buy stuff like this if it’s what you want to do. You’ll never convince me of it’s worth ever as I’d rent a machine before considering dealing with an old obsolete machine like these that in my mind, should be sold for scrap. That’s all I see when I look at that equipment - well the bobcat looks pretty clean and not abused and may be worth peeking at, but not that yellow pos. But you do you and if it makes you happy, more power to ya.
You're peddling the same dumb "it's not worth doing if you can't do it high end" attitude as the people who think that anyone who doesn't have separate summer and winter tires should get a bus pass and anyone who can't afford a $700 gun and some classes should buy pepper spray or you shouldn't buy a tool if you can't justify buying it from Snap On or whatever.

Except the one week a year when you're moving a fuckton of dirt all at once for a project in no way is a rental is better than a crappy but working machine that you have on hand 24/7. Repairs and value don't matter if you're not trying to flip it and there isn't a plethora of machines that won't need those repairs in the price range of the machine plus the repairs you'll do. We're talking personal use here, obviously.
 
It's the trick mechanism that they use to reverse direction that I was trying (poorly and with low effort :laughing:) to convey. Not the principals of the fucking roller chain drive itself.



You're trying to find disagreement where there is none. All I said was solids are still popular. :shaking:
You mean like this, but with chains?

Video starts at 9:43 for the mechanism.

 
You're peddling the same dumb "it's not worth doing if you can't do it high end" attitude as the people who think that anyone who doesn't have separate summer and winter tires should get a bus pass and anyone who can't afford a $700 gun and some classes should buy pepper spray or you shouldn't buy a tool if you can't justify buying it from Snap On or whatever.

Except the one week a year when you're moving a fuckton of dirt all at once for a project in no way is a rental is better than a crappy but working machine that you have on hand 24/7. Repairs and value don't matter if you're not trying to flip it and there isn't a plethora of machines that won't need those repairs in the price range of the machine plus the repairs you'll do. We're talking personal use here, obviously.
It’s why I say you do you, my word is not law or the golden standard you must abide by at all. My point in all this is $ invested vs return. Old equipment can very much become a serious money pit and a rabbit hole once it starts. Sure you can get lucky and find a good old used machine like that old bobcat appears to be above. But even so, not counting your invested labor, parts on stuff is $$$ today.

Everything has a value on the market, it’s set by supply and demand for used equipment. Do you think it’s smart to buy a $4k machine and end up with another possible $4k in parts in it? Now you’re upside down in the machine. If you decide to sell it, are you gonna ask $8k for it since you put $4k parts in it now? Will you advise it telling about all these new parts you put into it like it adds some kind of value to it? <- those are the worst ads ever btw. That’s just typical maintenance you should do to your vehicles or equipment anyway, it ads no extra value to it. Unless it’s new tires or tracks or a seat which is visual, it won’t get a return.

I look at it from a different perspective than most on here and I get it that some take offense to it. I lolk at it as an investment side of things where you’re looking at it as a rat rod skid steer loader. If it works for you then great, you don’t need to convince me about it no more than I need to convince you to buy a better reliable machine. I worked on that old stuff decades ago and want no part of it.
 
Does Linkslide’s ego in this thread come off a little AlfredW-ish to anybody else? I sold skid steers 25 years ago and I know everything! A true skid steer legend!!!!1 :homer:
I sold skid steers for 25 years, not 25 years ago. Left in 2013 and came back in 2020 -2022. I apologize if you take offense to what I’m conveying on here and more than likely coming across wrong. But I do have a ton of first hand experience and knowledge in this industry.
 
It’s why I say you do you, my word is not law or the golden standard you must abide by at all.
I'm not saying you're presenting your way as the only way but I think you're discounting the low end way.

My point in all this is $ invested vs return. Old equipment can very much become a serious money pit and a rabbit hole once it starts.
That doesn't happen when you buy straight garbage.

It's non-running. You make it run, value goes way up. Every $100-200 seal kit is gonna up value by about that muh

But the catch is you gotta get in cheap enough and do your own work. Obviously none of this would pencil out paying for labor for anything more than hoses and maybe cylinder rod stuff.

Everything has a value on the market, it’s set by supply and demand for used equipment. Do you think it’s smart to buy a $4k machine and end up with another possible $4k in parts in it? Now you’re upside down in the machine.
That's why you buy the nearly scrap price garbage that needs all sorts of stupid shit after you drag it out of its hole instead of the $5k shit that's gonna have "oops I need an $2k unobtanium injection pump" in 10 monhts

My front end loader was a great buy at sub-1k.

You can't go wrong on a sub-1k Ford N or sub-2/3k backhoe.

I look at it from a different perspective than most on here and I get it that some take offense to it. I lolk at it as an investment side of things where you’re looking at it as a rat rod skid steer loader. If it works for you then great, you don’t need to convince me about it no more than I need to convince you to buy a better reliable machine. I worked on that old stuff decades ago and want no part of it.
You're looking at it like a flipper. Deals you can straight make money on with little to no work are going to be stupid few and far between.

The deals you can be in the black on while dumping large amounts of labor in are much more prolific.

Once you have a machine like this you do your best to never not have one again so making money when you sell shouldn't be a priority IMO. Just not losing too much when you get something bigger and better is a fine result IMO.
 
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We looked at that system and another one that was out there at the time too and decided against it. The case dealership used the loeggering track system on their machines. It turned into a nightmare for them and case wouldn’t warranty the machine failures.

The front idler on the track I think spun free with bearings in the idler hub from the front drive axle. It was that or they had to remove the front drive chain to run the track system. A bit fuzzy on that part. Either way, the rear axle was the main drive for the track system. This put a tremendous load and stress on that drivetrain and drive motor. It started off good for the case dealership but soon turned into a huge $$$$$ mess and a bunch of pissed off customers who lost a bunch of money. They wanted me to trade that shit in on a Deere. Nope I wanted no part of it at all.

The front hubs spun free and the salesman for them said other manufacturers were having issues you described.
 
IIRC I told you to drop everything and buy the fucking thing when you posted about it
And I did. Drove out there to see it was real and dropped a cash deposit in his hand, all while masked up feeling like ass during my first bout with covid. As I was walking down the driveway with him back to my car, a truck pulling an enclosed gooseneck trailer came over the hill with the intent on buying it on the spot. I just happened to get there faster in my car, then came back that weekend with the trailer to pick it up.
 
Stumbled across this 742B for 5k, and it followed me home. Little smaller than was hoping, but it will work. Engine/hydraulics are good, drives and dumps. Pretty much nothing else if functional outside of the starter circuit. Throttle cable is broken, so have to spool it up manually at the ass end. Two tires only hold air for about a day or so, probably bent/rusty beads. Within 10 minutes of getting it off the trailer, the wife jumped in it and bombing around laughing her ass off. So pretty much a strong win.

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Looks like most of the decals have been stripped, but there are still a bunch on it that were painted over. Hammered lil bitch, but should do what I need.
 
on these guys you don't really need the throttle all that much, just leave it at "max" and wear ear muffs

good price for "runs and operates"
 
on these guys you don't really need the throttle all that much, just leave it at "max" and wear ear muffs

good price for "runs and operates"
Yeah, that is what I have been doing. But it is one "convenience" that makes sense to me to fix. Bsides.... expecting my wife to remember how to spool it up the way it is now is one more reason ot avoid using the it. It is getting a throttle cable.

Does need a lift cylinder repacked, seeps and runs into the cab. Otherwise, pretty good to go.

Mess with it some more today. Yesterday got soaked up pulling a t-case and SYE install.
 
I have the same machine since 1995. Mine runs a ford 2.0L. Also starts and moves snow in the coldest weather we have. I have been told to make sure the tires are the same size on each side. So you may want to watch out for the miss match.
 
Yeah, that is what I have been doing. But it is one "convenience" that makes sense to me to fix. Bsides.... expecting my wife to remember how to spool it up the way it is now is one more reason ot avoid using the it. It is getting a throttle cable.
Do the gas motor ones not have a governed engine speed?

I'd just leave it wired/ziptied full speed. No need to idle it down for starting or stopping.
 
I have been told to make sure the tires are the same size on each side. So you may want to watch out for the miss match.
I've been told similar as though it'll wear out the drive chains, when the machine was built with the sole purpose of breaking traction for every turn. I dunno if I believe it is that big of a problem
 
The new units are hitting the dealers.
I am pretty excited about them. New models are good for my business :flipoff2:
But really these things are a couple levels up from the D series.

Time will tell on the new engine, it's much smaller than the outgoing Kubota but has better power and torque rise, I just need the wiring to be better. The Kubota use some 20 gauge wire that fails under fatigue at a spectacular rate. The bottom ends of the Kubota engines are garbage as well, nothing like the Mitsubishi or Perkins they replaced.
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The front hubs spun free and the salesman for them said other manufacturers were having issues you described.
I saw an old cat with this track system on it in a trailer on the hwy last week :laughing:
 
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