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Shop canopy build.

On to the next issue, panel sealing. I'm thinking this deck will need to install inverted. That will give me a full 1.5" height at the panel nested joint vs the .75" lip installed the normal way. Installed with small rib up instead of large rib up. I plan to weld the deck in to avoid fastener leaks, but I will have the unsupported side lap joint without a clamp load to properly seal so it may need screws there. Not sure if I should use a butyl seal or a gun dispensed product. This is not usually used as the finished roof surface like I want to do. I picked structural metal deck so I can make a small garden on top with some planters.
 
Here is a closer view of the panel profile.
20201118_090711.jpg
 
3M panel bond maybe to seal the seams. Either that or a 2 part urethane seam sealer.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
On to the next issue, panel sealing. I'm thinking this deck will need to install inverted. That will give me a full 1.5" height at the panel nested joint vs the .75" lip installed the normal way. Installed with small rib up instead of large rib up. I plan to weld the deck in to avoid fastener leaks, but I will have the unsupported side lap joint without a clamp load to properly seal so it may need screws there. Not sure if I should use a butyl seal or a gun dispensed product. This is not usually used as the finished roof surface like I want to do. I picked structural metal deck so I can make a small garden on top with some planters.
Click to expand...

Yes, I would install inverted from your pic. (Although I think your pic is upside down from what the factory intends) Basiclly, you want wide valleys to carry the water away before it gets deep enough to go over the seam. I don't know about welding the seams. I think you will have warp and rust issues. The only issues you can have with that will be "dams". Either dams created by leaves or ice. From what I see in the pics, piles of leaves don't seem to be an issue. Ice dams in the spring could be an issue if your area is prone to that.

The experts say the best way to avoid ice dams is to have a cold roof. Meaning you need really good insulation. If you have a warm section in the middle, it melts first and the water runs down till it hits the ice dam. (At your eve) Then it backs up to a joint or gets deep enough to go over the seam. If the roof is all cold, it melts at the same time and runs off. So you might want to invest in more insulation.

When i I lived in Canada, I hovered a helicopter over the roof of our shop every now and then. It would blow the snow off in seconds. Then I would hover it in the parking lot for a few minutes. It really worked good. So that's an option.
 
WaterH said:
Yes, I would install inverted from your pic. (Although I think your pic is upside down from what the factory intends) Basiclly, you want wide valleys to carry the water away before it gets deep enough to go over the seam. I don't know about welding the seams. I think you will have warp and rust issues. The only issues you can have with that will be "dams". Either dams created by leaves or ice. From what I see in the pics, piles of leaves don't seem to be an issue. Ice dams in the spring could be an issue if your area is prone to that.

The experts say the best way to avoid ice dams is to have a cold roof. Meaning you need really good insulation. If you have a warm section in the middle, it melts first and the water runs down till it hits the ice dam. (At your eve) Then it backs up to a joint or gets deep enough to go over the seam. If the roof is all cold, it melts at the same time and runs off. So you might want to invest in more insulation.

When i I lived in Canada, I hovered a helicopter over the roof of our shop every now and then. It would blow the snow off in seconds. Then I would hover it in the parking lot for a few minutes. It really worked good. So that's an option.
Click to expand...

Not going to weld the seams, just panel to the perlins. I think I'm forced to use screws to get the side and end laps to seal up. Then I can use butyl tape.

Helicopter is a great idea, I think I will use that as a backup plan for when this leaks everywhere. :grinpimp:
 
Chevron brackets built for one of the bays. Lightweight beams will bolt to these.
 
For some reason I thought you were closer to Syracuse.
 
Built two columns to fit mid span on the back wall, welded on the girt brackets, and the angle girts. Also put one on the bottom edge of the overhanging perlins. Then started to sheet it. What a pain it is moving a 4x10 sheet of 16g, and putting it up on the wall. I got half way and I was beat. Floppy, 100lbs, and awkward. Each joint will get a hat channel attached which will cover the 1/8" gap and also give rigidity to hold the panel straight.

20201128_164922.jpg
 
Put the other sheets up today, built the hat channels for in between and started installing them until I ran out of daylight.

20201129_171835.jpg
 
4Eyedturd said:
Are you planning on insulation?
Click to expand...

No insulation. One side and doorway will be open, looking into a strip curtain wall.

Important * If it was to be insulated the wall detail would need to be different. Like a rain screen design.
 
Is that steel not painted/powdered? Why not? You could sprayfoam insulate if you want to later.
 
45acp said:
I dont understand... what is the point of insulation if 2 sides are open? Is this a yankee thing or something? :confused:
Click to expand...

He's obviously not insulating now because of the two sides open. But later if he chooses, he can install some doors/walls and sprayfoam.
 
WaterH said:
Is that steel not painted/powdered? Why not? You could sprayfoam insulate if you want to later.
Click to expand...

Weathering steel. It gets a rust patina that seals the metal and prevents further corrosion. To insulate something like this it should have a drainage plane behind it and vapor barrier. No plans on insulation for this canopy.
 
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