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Dethmachinefab

Dethmachinefab

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
96
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1,253
A year ago I poured a 40x60 pad and loading dock outside my house/shop. Below I put a large footing and piers knowing covering it was something I'd probably end up doing.

Now I've got some more equipment and the need for a roof is coming quickly with the changing seasons so it's time to get building.

Here are some pics of the just finished pad last year.
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Here is the basic layout of the canopy steel. I'm going to start with doing one half first, the back tward the knee wall.

20200922_195304.png
 
Started to build the columns. W10x33 with a .75x12x12 base plate, 1/2" cap plate and stiffeners welded in. Still need to cut and drill for the angles that tie the web of the girder into the column.

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So did you make the columns so that you can attach walls later?
 
bdkw1 said:
So did you make the columns so that you can attach walls later?
Click to expand...

It's getting one wall on the back side now. If I want to enclose it all i need to do is attach an angle to them. Im going to order some a606 type4 weathering steel to skin it.
 
Not much progress, columns are all in. Leveled and heights are set. A laser makes it quite easy, but I needed to mark them at night. Then the today day I adjusted the heights and checked tonight that it's correct.
20200927_190231.jpg
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Not much progress, columns are all in. Leveled and heights are set. A laser makes it quite easy, but I needed to mark them at night. Then the today day I adjusted the heights and checked tonight that it's correct.
Click to expand...

You can get receivers that will pick up the laser beam in the middle of the day, and are sensitivity adjustable. Dewalt and hilti are two makes, but I'm sure there's a ton more. Worth every penny.
 
I never liked having the beams sit above the concrete on nuts like that. I always preferred having a flange on the concrete reinforcement that holds the studs, leveling those with shims and then bolting the beam flange tight to that.

What are you going to be doing for triangulation/wind bracing?
 
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arse_sidewards said:
I never liked having the beams sit above the concrete on nuts like that. I always preferred having a flange on the concrete reinforcement that holds the studs, leveling those with shims and then bolting the beam flange tight to that.

What are you going to be doing for triangulation/wind bracing?
Click to expand...

It gets packed with no shrink grout when done.

A few bay's will have cross braces. 3" sch 40 with fin tabs welded in the ends. The back will have a wall for shear, and the open front should be fine because all the cross girder to beam attachments are moment connections.
 
Little more work done today. Welded on the end plates and installed two of the side beams. Got the beams for the other side cut. Once they are in i can set the rear girder.

The big beams that span the 40' direction are too long for my trucks. I borrowed a cutside truck from my local steel supply to bring it home. Still have to pick up the remaining w21x62 beams this week sometime.
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Dethmachinefab said:
It gets packed with no shrink grout when done.
Click to expand...

Still not sold, seen way to much of that shit cracked and coming out from under columns.

Better to set them all on piers below grade and pour over them
 
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The w18x35 beams are up. I need to pick up the w21x62 beams and install them next. Im thinking of just running the steel to the end of the pad. That way its finished and i can put the overhead crane up. Its not much more work. Still plan to only cover half with the corten roof, and the other will have a cool steel pergola look.

A 12x12 grouted plate far exceeds any loads this structure can apply. Grout failure is usually caused by poor application, or things like earthquakes.
20201005_182124.jpg
 
Fuck that. Cover it all with a roof. Keeps the rain snow and leaves off of shit.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
x2, cover it all
Click to expand...

I need to retain this open look to get a favorable decision from the town should an issue arise. Fully covered goes much closer to a steel building without 3 walls, than a pergola with canopy section. I don't plan to stay here forever.
 
With all that structure, you should put a beam in for a gantry crane. Your the kind of guy that will use it all the time.

edit, how tall will the door/ceiling be?
 
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WaterH said:
With all that structure, you should put a beam in for a gantry crane. Your the kind of guy that will use it all the time.

edit, how tall will the door/ceiling be?
Click to expand...

Already got the hoist and trolleys for it. :grinpimp:

Top of steel is about 12' 9" underside of the big beams is 11'. It's low but I can make it work by building the bridge beam to fit up inside the rail beams.
 
Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
That cover's not gonna be flat roofed is it?
Click to expand...

Its going to be pitched away from the building. I will be making my own c channels to make the pitch. Taller channels at the house side, and progressively getting smaller in depth as it gets to the driveway side.
 
Didn't get much done, had a few jobs to do this week. Put up one of the big beams. Might get around to the other tomorrow.
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Dethmachinefab said:
Its going to be pitched away from the building. I will be making my own c channels to make the pitch. Taller channels at the house side, and progressively getting smaller in depth as it gets to the driveway side.
Click to expand...

That makes sense. Hadn't thought of graduated purlins. What made you choose that instead of angled beams?
 
Need moar pics of that loader-jib-crane-whatever the fuck that is. Look awesome.

Edit: Nevermind...2nd page wasn't showing up when I posed. :laughing:
 
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