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School me on 9" ratios

bdkw1 said:
Same, but that isn't an issue in my opinion. Going 1" larger on the BC isn't going to cut down on flex that much. A load bolt pretty much eliminates any difference in strength anyway. If you're running a spool, carrier size isn't an issue either.
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Spools definitely have their place, but for 4WS trail/crawler cars, a tcase with front dig and a selectable rear locker are huge assets...and that's where the 9" falls short.

Granted, I'm not sure there's a big enough market any more to cater to that crowd by building a bigger/stronger 9", but like TechTim said, if you're already beefing up everything else and basically custom making all the components for the 9" why not go the whole way?
 
Got around to setting up my 3rd member Saturday with a buddies help. The ecgs spool (probably yukon) does not work with the gearworks load bolt case without major grinding on the spool for the load bolt to be effective. Moral of the story is dont be a cheap ass and buy gearworks spool.
 
Yeah they gotta be a certain OD on the flange for the load bolt to clear
 
Wfoyota said:
Got around to setting up my 3rd member Saturday with a buddies help. The ecgs spool (probably yukon) does not work with the gearworks load bolt case without major grinding on the spool for the load bolt to be effective. Moral of the story is dont be a cheap ass and buy gearworks spool.
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I have a 35 spline GW spool on the shelf if you need one or a measurement.
 
Wfoyota said:
Got around to setting up my 3rd member Saturday with a buddies help. The ecgs spool (probably yukon) does not work with the gearworks load bolt case without major grinding on the spool for the load bolt to be effective. Moral of the story is dont be a cheap ass and buy gearworks spool.
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Good to know.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
some silly questions. lets say i found a carrier can i just change it to a 35 spline spool and reuse the gears.
1715889623605.png
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I’m bumping this post into the correct thread there Chap.

I know you’re trying to do this on the cheap. But I cannot recommend enough that you avoid that pos. That’s a car case. One web, no N. You can build what you want for that kind of money. That’s a car part not a 4x4 part.

This is post #32 from page 2. Of why I recommend against that case for $350 bucks.

JR4X said:
Here’s a few pictures from the old place of broken factory cases. The main caps are terrible as well.

IMG_5299.jpeg
IMG_5300.jpeg
IMG_5301.jpeg
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For my budget 609 I went down the same path as you chaplinfj60 and came to the realization that for less than $1500 shipped a Quick Performance fully assembled Yukon nodular 35 spline with grizzly locker was hard to beat.

It just is going to take 3 months to get :lmao:

www.quickperformance.com

F9YNC-Ford 9" Yukon Nodular Iron Complete Center Sectio

www.quickperformance.com www.quickperformance.com
 
Sean said:
Just make sure you opt for the 35 spline pinion too over the 28 spline. I fucked up and ordered 28 spline.
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Thanks, I don’t see it called out in my order confirmation so I’ll check with them because I don’t remember.
 
fl0w3n said:
Thanks, I don’t see it called out in my order confirmation so I’ll check with them because I don’t remember.
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Yeah, if you talk to them....and don't mind asking....what do the LW, AX, SP Pro and BP Pro prefixed ratios designate?
 
Sean said:
Yeah, if you talk to them....and don't mind asking....what do the LW, AX, SP Pro and BP Pro prefixed ratios designate?
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This was answered in the other thread but in case someone sees this thread in the future….

LW = lightweight Yukon gears
AX = motive lightweight gears
SP = small pinion
BP = big pinion
 
Trying to shift the discussion over here as JR4X was apt to point out it is better suited to this thread

Based off the last few posts in the other thread I’m now torn / confused

QP did confirm my current order, which just selected the regular 5.14 gear with no suffix, would be a 28 spline pinion.

Now if I switch to the 5.14 SP PRO for $300 it would be 35 spline but small pinion? What part of the pinion are we talking about here that’s “small” or “big”?

If I read correctly the other thread comments it sounds like there’s no 5.14 35 spline big pinions available in 9”, at least from QP

AgitatedPancake points out his success with 28 spline, so it sounds like maybe I’m better off keeping big pinion 28 spline? And just making sure I don’t have some soft racing gear set?

I’ll talk it through with QP tomorrow too to see what they think.
 
Small pinion is 28 spline

If you need 35 spline pinion 5.14 gears then you need to look for 10” gears. They are all pro gears so not recommended for street.
 
benw said:
Small pinion is 28 spline

If you need 35 spline pinion 5.14 gears then you need to look for 10” gears. They are all pro gears so not recommended for street.
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Damn I just switched from 4.86 to 5.14 because I just picked up a 5.14 rear.

I guess I’ll stick with the regular 5.14 gears in small pinion cuz I’m not switching out the rear
 
benw said:
Small pinion is 28 spline

If you need 35 spline pinion 5.14 gears then you need to look for 10” gears. They are all pro gears so not recommended for street.
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You seem the most knowledgeable about these gears....are the pro gears not well suited to offroad only either, e.g., are they really only for the track/drag strip?
 
Sean said:
You seem the most knowledgeable about these gears....are the pro gears not well suited to offroad only either, e.g., are they really only for the track/drag strip?
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I don’t know that. I just happen to already have done the research on what quick performance has for sale and I looked all over for big pinion gears in lower ratios awhile back.

FYI QP has 9.5” gears which to my understanding is what everyone else calls 10” gears. They just don’t list them in the configuration for the assembled thirds. F9.5-BP-PRO-Ford 9.5 Inch Drag Race 35 Spline 9310 Big Pinio
 
fl0w3n said:
AgitatedPancake points out his success with 28 spline, so it sounds like maybe I’m better off keeping big pinion 28 spline? And just making sure I don’t have some soft racing gear set?
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Looks like you have things figured out, but just to expand on what I was saying in the other thread - I definitely don't deny the large 35 spline pinion gears are going to be inherently stronger, I just don't think they are an absolute necessity for all builds if you're trying to go low budget bling.
 
AgitatedPancake said:
Looks like you have things figured out, but just to expand on what I was saying in the other thread - I definitely don't deny the large 35 spline pinion gears are going to be inherently stronger, I just don't think they are an absolute necessity for all builds if you're trying to go low budget bling.
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I would agree with that. Not every rig necessitates the big pinion. If you’ve got an LS + 40’s and a heavy right foot you might find you need to upgrade the rear. But you can always start with 28 spline and run it till you either have problems or find that you never do.
 
benw said:
I don’t know that. I just happen to already have done the research on what quick performance has for sale and I looked all over for big pinion gears in lower ratios awhile back.

FYI QP has 9.5” gears which to my understanding is what everyone else calls 10” gears. They just don’t list them in the configuration for the assembled thirds. F9.5-BP-PRO-Ford 9.5 Inch Drag Race 35 Spline 9310 Big Pinio
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Yowza...$1295 for the gears. Ouch. Pay to play, I guess.
 
JR4X said:
I would agree with that. Not every rig necessitates the big pinion. If you’ve got an LS + 40’s and a heavy right foot you might find you need to upgrade the rear. But you can always start with 28 spline and run it till you either have problems or find that you never do.
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That is the beauty of the 9"....swapping it out is pretty damn fast and easy.
 
Sean said:
That is the beauty of the 9"....swapping it out is pretty damn fast and easy.
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I just ran a couples thirds through the prep bench the last couple days. Had to change a R&P for wear on the big car. Took the exact same shim stack in the pinion support to be exactly the same gear mesh from the old gears to the new ones.
 
I'm still scratching my head as to if any of the BP (Big 35 spline Pinion) 9" gears from ECGS or QP are rated for anything but track use; i.e., are they going to hold up to offroading or is this a mismatch in terms of gear application?
 
Sean said:
I'm still scratching my head as to if any of the BP (Big 35 spline Pinion) 9" gears from ECGS or QP are rated for anything but track use; i.e., are they going to hold up to offroading or is this a mismatch in terms of gear application?
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What do you mean mismatch?

IMO “track use” gears are the correct gears for our off road use. How many miles a year do you think you are going to put on that thing?

The harder heat treated gears that are meant for a couple hundred thousand miles of highway use are the ones that break from shock load.

The race gears we’ve been running do not. We shock load them and are not suffering breakage. Broken shafts and exploded lockers, R&P look brand new. The set I just retired was on its 3rd partial season of actual racing. High pinion gears in the wrong orientation because of being ran in the rear of a 700 horse U4 car. That’s two KOH’s all the little races and just have pinion tooth wear. That same R&P came out unscathed when a shaft and spool got broken in it last year.

I wouldn’t want hardened street gears for a crawler (any more). You can find my installments of those in the carnage share thread with teeth shattered off of them from broken u-joints axles drivelines etc.
 
JR4X said:
What do you mean mismatch?

IMO “track use” gears are the correct gears for our off road use. How many miles a year do you think you are going to put on that thing?

The harder heat treated gears that are meant for a couple hundred thousand miles of highway use are the ones that break from shock load.

The race gears we’ve been running do not. We shock load them and are not suffering breakage. Broken shafts and exploded lockers, R&P look brand new. The set I just retired was on its 3rd partial season of actual racing. High pinion gears in the wrong orientation because of being ran in the rear of a 700 horse U4 car. That’s two KOH’s all the little races and just have pinion tooth wear. That same R&P came out unscathed when a shaft and spool got broken in it last year.

I wouldn’t want hardened street gears for a crawler (any more). You can find my installments of those in the carnage share thread with teeth shattered off of them from broken u-joints axles drivelines etc.
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I just didn't know if the track gears are similar hardness to what you'd want for offroad since I'd think the shockloading might be different...though shockloading on slickrock is probably a lot like pavement.

IIRC, you're running GW and Mega Hi-9 gears....and your experience says the formulations are likely the same as the drag R&Ps (if I'm understanding you correctly)>
 
Sean said:
I'm still scratching my head as to if any of the BP (Big 35 spline Pinion) 9" gears from ECGS or QP are rated for anything but track use; i.e., are they going to hold up to offroading or is this a mismatch in terms of gear application?
Click to expand...

JR4X said:
What do you mean mismatch?

IMO “track use” gears are the correct gears for our off road use. How many miles a year do you think you are going to put on that thing?

The harder heat treated gears that are meant for a couple hundred thousand miles of highway use are the ones that break from shock load.

The race gears we’ve been running do not. We shock load them and are not suffering breakage. Broken shafts and exploded lockers, R&P look brand new. The set I just retired was on its 3rd partial season of actual racing. High pinion gears in the wrong orientation because of being ran in the rear of a 700 horse U4 car. That’s two KOH’s all the little races and just have pinion tooth wear. That same R&P came out unscathed when a shaft and spool got broken in it last year.

I wouldn’t want hardened street gears for a crawler (any more). You can find my installments of those in the carnage share thread with teeth shattered off of them from broken u-joints axles drivelines etc.
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so I just got off the phone with QP, and I’ll say they have great customer service- they called me this morning because they saw my missed call after hours yesterday.

after talking it through with them I wound up staying with my 5.14 SP “regular” gears

But after the call I saw what you just posted and that does make sense, but I don’t think I’m going to change my specific order for this build. Partly because I don’t want to be annoying and change my order a bunch of times, and partly because I don’t want to fall down the “for just a couple hundred more” rabbit hole.

I’d like to think for the junkyard style build I’m doing, with budget in mind, I’m going to be alright with the 28 spline and “regular” gears.
 
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