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Random stuff you made.

Here's a few

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Nothing like a good health scare to motivate you to finish shit while you can. Hammered thru the first door panel and I’m kinda proud of it. 3 more to go and this bitch is gonna be on the road. Scavaged some chrome trim off a 90’s Jaguar in the junkyard that fits good enough to separate the carpet and vinyl

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Got an idea to build something random---replaceable tip scribe and/or center punch.

If I made a handle with a 1/4-20 threaded hole at one end, could thread in Hilti studs like shown, with the pointy bit sticking out.

Would it work?

I've been sharpening up used SDS drill bits for center punches for years and they work great. Not sure if the studs are sufficient steel.

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Wanted an Island for our kitchen; I couldn't find anything that was the size I wanted, and they all were too short (regular counter height). I'm 6'2", getting older and bending over to use a normal height countertop hurts my back. I ordered two 42" tall "wall cabinets", mounted them back to back (screws + glue), added a butcher block top (30" wide, so it has a nice work surface). I also mounted caster wheels on the bottom (along with 8" x 8" 1/2" plywood to help spread the load since the cabinet bottoms weren't made for this).

Total cost $430 + tax. Ended up being cheaper than the islands I was finding and it's exactly the size & height I wanted.

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Funny, the seam between the two cabinets is way more noticeable in the picture than it is in real life; probably because of the flash from the camera. In reality you can't really see it, although if you run your hand across it, you can feel it. Good enough.
 
Wanted an Island for our kitchen; I couldn't find anything that was the size I wanted, and they all were too short (regular counter height). I'm 6'2", getting older and bending over to use a normal height countertop hurts my back. I ordered two 42" tall "wall cabinets", mounted them back to back (screws + glue), added a butcher block top (30" wide, so it has a nice work surface). I also mounted caster wheels on the bottom (along with 8" x 8" 1/2" plywood to help spread the load since the cabinet bottoms weren't made for this).

Total cost $430 + tax. Ended up being cheaper than the islands I was finding and it's exactly the size & height I wanted.

1712865377658.png


Funny, the seam between the two cabinets is way more noticeable in the picture than it is in real life; probably because of the flash from the camera. In reality you can't really see it, although if you run your hand across it, you can feel it. Good enough.


Great idea, you could always put a sheet of material over the side and reset the corner moldings, you'd never know it was 2 cabinets. Looks great the way it is tho'.


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Wanted an Island for our kitchen; I couldn't find anything that was the size I wanted, and they all were too short (regular counter height). I'm 6'2", getting older and bending over to use a normal height countertop hurts my back. I ordered two 42" tall "wall cabinets", mounted them back to back (screws + glue), added a butcher block top (30" wide, so it has a nice work surface). I also mounted caster wheels on the bottom (along with 8" x 8" 1/2" plywood to help spread the load since the cabinet bottoms weren't made for this).

Total cost $430 + tax. Ended up being cheaper than the islands I was finding and it's exactly the size & height I wanted.

1712865377658.png


Funny, the seam between the two cabinets is way more noticeable in the picture than it is in real life; probably because of the flash from the camera. In reality you can't really see it, although if you run your hand across it, you can feel it. Good enough.

I'm guessing you needed two spreader bars pushing against opposing walls to get them screwed together, am I right?
 
I'm guessing you needed two spreader bars pushing against opposing walls to get them screwed together, am I right?
Cabinet back is 3/8" particle board and the cabinets are designed to screw directly to the wall through that back panel (These are just cheap Home Depot cabinets from "Hampton Bay" or something like that). I just put them back-to-back (one face down on the floor, then the other one face up on top, align and screw together) and ran about six 3/4" long screws from one cabinet into the other and then flipped them over and did the same in the other cabinet. The screws were long enough to almost penetrate into the other cabinet (you could see a dimple in some places where I ran it a little deep). Both cabinet tops are then screwed into the butcher block; it'd take some work to get these apart. I wouldn't make this for a tool cabinet in a garage/shop where it's going to get knocked around/abused a lot, but it works great rolling around in the kitchen.
 
Cabinet back is 3/8" particle board and the cabinets are designed to screw directly to the wall through that back panel (These are just cheap Home Depot cabinets from "Hampton Bay" or something like that). I just put them back-to-back (one face down on the floor, then the other one face up on top, align and screw together) and ran about six 3/4" long screws from one cabinet into the other and then flipped them over and did the same in the other cabinet. The screws were long enough to almost penetrate into the other cabinet (you could see a dimple in some places where I ran it a little deep). Both cabinet tops are then screwed into the butcher block; it'd take some work to get these apart. I wouldn't make this for a tool cabinet in a garage/shop where it's going to get knocked around/abused a lot, but it works great rolling around in the kitchen.

According to Yota Up, you did it wrong.:flipoff2:

Need the wrong tool for the job.
 
I've always thought someone needs to make a kit to convert a high-lift jack into the same geometry as an old school bumper jack for those kinds of uses.

They existed along side each other for the first 50yr but the latter died out with no good replacement.

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Funny, I have both of those jacks and some other similar ones. One I have almost exactly like the one on the right quit working last week. I noticed bearings falling out of it, got a magnet and picked them all up, took it apart, it has small ball bearings in the threads and a little U pipe screwed on outside the threaded block letting the bearings move back and forth in the threads and return end to end. Who knew? One of the screws had fallen out and let the bearings go. Shortened a new screw for it and loctited them both in, should last longer than I do now.
 
The one above for the center punch.

This one for the scribe:

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Been using these punches for years...
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best scribe i've had is just like shown above, but with a carbide insert brazed for the scribe edge.


and a center punch sharpened correctly will continue to work harden until it hardly needs sharpening.


no way I'd be using threaded insert
 
This is not a proud inventor brag post :laughing: but it saved me ~an hour of fucking around:

Needed to add a missing countersink to a lock screw detent hole in the handle of an otherwise GTG Hazard Fraught plate compactor
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because the tapered section of the spring loaded locking bolt on 1 side couldn't drop in far enough to let threads under the knob engage :shaking:

Could only get an inch of radial clearance unless I disassembled the folding handle . . . yeah, nah
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I present to you the fuckit-let'smakethisafiveminutejob-o-matic:
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Janky contraption = 1/4 hex impact driver + extension + 1/4 hex to 3/8 square adapter + 3/8 sq. drive to V-jaw tap chuck (:homer:, I know) holding a round-shanked countersink I got in the '80s from my grandpa. That ridiculous combination of egregiously misused tools took 1 minute to assemble & 2 minutes to git 'r' dun . . .
. . . before I could even wise up and/or feel ashamed of myself
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1 more door panel done and 1 to go. I had planned on using screws to hold it in place but after seeing it I want to use a hidden fastener. I may try to use the plastic trim pins if I can cut the holes in the backing board without fucking the fabric up. After the door panels are done this fucker is coming out of the shop under its own power after to many years.

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