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Random stuff you made.

Really trying to get some organization stuff done this fall...

Rack I made for some fencing materials out of an old truck frame and a bunch of other random steel I had lying around. Welded up with some 6011 from an auction that was on an entire shelf of stuff I bought for $15.

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Sheet metal rack. Started with a wire spool rack I bought for $50. then had to basically completely cut it apart and re-build it into what it is now. :laughing:

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Loaded up with sheet metal. Yeah I cut up old appliances and get the good sheet metal from them before scrapping them out.

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And had to re-build my chain rack. It was in the ground, but I'm taking out a fence next to my shop to open that area up wider and give me more room, so it had to come out, shorten the legs, and put feet on it, and then I added more receiver tubes for hitches, pegs for shackles, and some places to hang chain binders off the backs of the legs. Also added some angle iron to make the chain "basket" bigger for longer chains (it was pretty much overflowing before). Then painted it up and anchored it to the concrete.

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Made this one a long time ago, but I'll throw it in too. Another sheet metal rack for thicker stuff. I moved it today as it was also along that same fence line by the shop. The ol' V80D (8000lb capacity) was able to move it full of steel, but it was struggling a bit...

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665.0coupe said:
I like that chain rack also, but I wonder, could all of the hitches be replaced by something like this?

Tow & Stow Adjustable Ball Mount | B&W Trailer Hitches

The Tow & Stow adjustable ball mount trailer hitch gives you the versatility to swap ball sizes, adjust the height in seconds, and stow it under your vehicle when you're not towing.
www.bwtrailerhitches.com www.bwtrailerhitches.com
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Those are just my "overflow" and rarely used hitches. The ones I use most are on my pickups at all times. :laughing:
 
I love the map! Back in high school and college I had topographic maps taped together on my wall and would trace routes for hikes and bike rides and such. Having that in 3D would be awesome!
 
Kilkenny4130 said:
I knocked out these two signs in the last month or so. Pretty happy with them. Also finally finished my giant map and border, have had the map since last black friday haha...
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Impressive! :beer: Is all that wood carving done on a CNC router or hand-carved or a mixture?
 
PAToyota said:
I love the map! Back in high school and college I had topographic maps taped together on my wall and would trace routes for hikes and bike rides and such. Having that in 3D would be awesome!
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Thanks man, it's something I've wanted to put together for a long time. I bet I could do it in 3d, I have some topographic jobs coming up and I might make a personal usa one. The trips need filled in, I have 7 to pin up there and many more to come. Almost have all the boarder lake routes done between the US and Canada.
ExWrench said:
Impressive! :beer: Is all that wood carving done on a CNC router or hand-carved or a mixture?
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Appreciate it! Most of its done on my shopsabre router, will eventually be an early corporate exit career change I'm hoping. Plenty of hand chisel cleanup and fine sanding, difficult to find the stopping points haha. Watching some carving ideas on the youtubes makes me want to try more of it soon. Really want to do some creature coming out of a tabletop.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Do you have to rotate them to keep the fabric from wearing out at the bends? :laughing:
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If I recall correctly, there is a 5 year replacement interval recommended, or based on condition. I’m still learning Piper as 99% of my maintenance experience is on Cessna. They also have a color code in them that runs in a 4 year cycle, so assuming you keep up in he maintenance, you should have a good guess how old they are. Chafing at the corners generally isn’t a problem I’m aware of though.
 
YJLOPES said:
The finest tech of early aviation. I don’t understand your question though. The ends of the bungees? They look like this.

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Ok, so they're "endless" like slings. In other words they're factory spliced inside the outer jacket, likely with many wraps of small cord (making the splice smaller and all cords better able to equalize).
 
Concrete blocks and some leftover redimix. Box weights around 175#. Should have something around 400# extra in blocks and redimix.

Beast said:
Dead hookers and lime.
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This should make it easier to dig a hole to bury that.
 
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Gasketed cap with a fill and drain plug? At 8 pounds per gallon can add a lot weight with water. When done using drain the thing for easy handling.

May be a stupid idea but sounded good after e a few beers lol.

Could also use for remote watering if you have a need...
 
Flatbed said:
Gasketed cap with a fill and drain plug? At 8 pounds per gallon can add a lot weight with water. When done using drain the thing for easy handling.

May be a stupid idea but sounded good after e a few beers lol.

Could also use for remote watering if you have a need...
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that was my first thought too. looked it up, concrete is ~2.4x as heavy as water for the same volume. so maybe he needs more weight than the water would do?



that grate rack is smart
 
yep, plan was always for concrete for the weight.

This is a loose copy of the crappy fleabay ballast boxes.
 
JohnnyJ said:
yep, plan was always for concrete for the weight.

This is a loose copy of the crappy fleabay ballast boxes.
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Is it worth the extra cost to actually put cement in there? What's the benefit?

If you fill with sand then you can always dump it for easy transport or whatever then fill it on location. You'd also always have sand for traction if needed.

You could always add a bolt on lid to keep the sand in there if it were to fall over.
 
A buddy bought a Diamondbox XL2 and I don't have the money for that so I bought some plans from BFM for the Omni 12 TallBoy and converted it to battery power via M18 battery and a 100x4 KABD-4100 DSP Amp.
Everyone is floored when I give them a Demo, fidelity at distance is crazy, due to the 6.5" mid Horn.
Made out of 1/2" baltic birch.
Has rear 36v DC jack for running off 120v external battery etc.
Remote DSP tuning port in rear panel as well.
No buttons except power to keep the drunks from finger fucking...

92 Green YJ made me laser cut badge and business card emblem​

First test, no tuning, terrible video shot by 17 year old...
​




Video from the football field for my daughters powder puff game, 75 yards away.
photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Weldon C

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

My daughter and I playing pickle ball.
photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Weldon C

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

P.S. I don't tell my kids what kind of music to listen to...



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Muckin_Slusher said:
Is it worth the extra cost to actually put cement in there? What's the benefit?
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Usually strength.

You make a really shitty OSB or rotten plywood box with some mesh suspended in it and the 3pt attachment points poking out of the form, pour it full and you're GTG.

The concrete comes out cheaper than the steel if you were to buy new steel and even if you don't the steel you have gets saved for more deserving projects.

I'd honestly never seen a steel box until he posted his. I just assumed everyone did concrete. :laughing:
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Is it worth the extra cost to actually put cement in there? What's the benefit?

If you fill with sand then you can always dump it for easy transport or whatever then fill it on location. You'd also always have sand for traction if needed.

You could always add a bolt on lid to keep the sand in there if it were to fall over.
Click to expand...

I've had a pile of concrete blocks from the PO that I've moved around since I bought the place in 2004 and this will reduce the pile by 9 and still leave me with too many. I have 3 80lb bags of quickrete in the corner from a past project that I'll fill the voids with (will be shocked if I use more than 1 bag). So this is a project of leftover crap. I don't have a sand pit on property, so that would be the extra cost.
 
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