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Ran when parked

be careful with that thing man. my buddy has one (and I have a ford 555c) and lemme tell you, I will NEVER get on his again. those models are DANGEROUS (extremely) because they are so mis-proportioned. the hoe is WAY to heavy and the front loader is WAY to light. it seems extremely tippy to me.
 

thanks, I'd happily trade it for a compact track loader :grinpimp:

You have your whole neighborhood dug up yet?

not yet, it's stored at my friends, I need to get out there and put a checklist together, study diag and ordering parts

be careful with that thing man. my buddy has one (and I have a ford 555c) and lemme tell you, I will NEVER get on his again. those models are DANGEROUS (extremely) because they are so mis-proportioned. the hoe is WAY to heavy and the front loader is WAY to light. it seems extremely tippy to me.

huh, I have minimal time on backhoes, but this one didn't look or feel disproportionate, maybe your buddy has an extenda hoe? Longer stick? Soft rear tires? I'll be working on flat ground, but I'll keep it in mind though, put an engine block in the loader bucket if needed:smokin:
 
be careful with that thing man. my buddy has one (and I have a ford 555c) and lemme tell you, I will NEVER get on his again. those models are DANGEROUS (extremely) because they are so mis-proportioned. the hoe is WAY to heavy and the front loader is WAY to light. it seems extremely tippy to me.

If you set the outriggers and the bucket, the machine won't move at all.
 
Projectjunkie, if its sat for 4yrs be ready for all the had cyl to start leaking once they start being used and building heat.
 
There are full tractor \ hoe hyd cyl kits available online. Get it running and moving good and then plan on doing every cyl. First couple of cyl suck, but then it gets way easier. The kits will usually have the special pieces to make it way easier. You will find settled out crud in bottom of cyls. By doing them all, it helps get the whole hyd system clean. My last jd ate the trans frictions after sitting for a few hrs before we got it. Done all cyls and a trans kit and good to go. Pretty much like dozer dans experience. Hoses are expected also.
 
There are full tractor \ hoe hyd cyl kits available online. Get it running and moving good and then plan on doing every cyl. First couple of cyl suck, but then it gets way easier. The kits will usually have the special pieces to make it way easier. You will find settled out crud in bottom of cyls. By doing them all, it helps get the whole hyd system clean. My last jd ate the trans frictions after sitting for a few hrs before we got it. Done all cyls and a trans kit and good to go. Pretty much like dozer dans experience. Hoses are expected also.

In my experience with Deere and Cat stuff, dont waste your time with non-OEM packings and seals for cylinders, seems like its about a 50% leak rate after getting them back together, OEM is close to 100% success rate.
 
be careful with that thing man. my buddy has one (and I have a ford 555c) and lemme tell you, I will NEVER get on his again. those models are DANGEROUS (extremely) because they are so mis-proportioned. the hoe is WAY to heavy and the front loader is WAY to light. it seems extremely tippy to me.

Exaggerate much there mate? It's got ROPS, and as long as don't drive like a complete moron it's hard to tip over. Yah, it might be light on the front end, but it's not going that far or you could just carry some dirt around. Put the stabilizers down to about 6" off the ground if you're that worried.....
 
The old 410 hoe we have not sure on other models. Has a park slot on the hi-lo side of transmission when its in park 1-2-3-4 which ever gear its in its locked in. Forward left on hi-lo side on ours is park which is not marked where the 1-2 is... hopefully thats what is going on with yours. Simple fix:rolleyes: if so. Good luck
 
The old 410 hoe we have not sure on other models. Has a park slot on the hi-lo side of transmission when its in park 1-2-3-4 which ever gear its in its locked in. Forward left on hi-lo side on ours is park which is not marked where the 1-2 is... hopefully thats what is going on with yours. Simple fix:rolleyes: if so. Good luck

Good info, I was thinking it was something stupid, and I remember getting it into a gear once, engine off, while messing around with levers trying to sort it out
I'll check it out, thanks
 
be careful with that thing man. my buddy has one (and I have a ford 555c) and lemme tell you, I will NEVER get on his again. those models are DANGEROUS (extremely) because they are so mis-proportioned. the hoe is WAY to heavy and the front loader is WAY to light. it seems extremely tippy to me.

I'm going to look at one tomarrow. I saw it last week on a drive. I sware it had 555 on the hood. It was yellow though. Not sure if Ford painted theirs yellow. Can you give me any info I could use while looking at it?

sorry about the hyjack, Project
 
I'm going to look at one tomarrow. I saw it last week on a drive. I sware it had 555 on the hood. It was yellow though. Not sure if Ford painted theirs yellow. Can you give me any info I could use while looking at it?

sorry about the hyjack, Project

Tractordata or Ritchie Specs should have info.

Aaron Z
 
Tractordata or Ritchie Specs should have info.

Aaron Z

Thanks, reading specs, it appears it weighs too much for my trailer. (It looked big) If I decide to buy it, would I I be crazy to drive it 25 miles home?
 
If it's a sound machine, I'd drive it 25 miles, that's a 90 minute drive versus fucking around with a trailer out paying $400

just have fuel and air ready
 
Their are times roading any hoe is better than trailering. At times we end up doing both on same job. All depend on the roads their conditons..the weather.. and access 25miles is nothing, whether its our old 410 or 410E... I live and work in Pikes Peak area.we alwasy have strobe and blinkers front and rear lights on as well as chase truck strobes and blinkers as well.. oil air hyd fluid tools ..
 
Chadwick DozerDan82

I'm under this thing now, still unable to shift the 4 speed box

I verified mine has no handbrake, it is the model with the park position in the hi lo box. That box seems to shift freely, and when running, I get some mesh rowing the hi lo between gears

I popped the 4 speed shifter stick out the top, there's no ball on the end, and it's rough, but according to parts blow up, it's right

at this time I'm thinking that park position has a linkage/ interlock ?

also my buddy convinced me to pull the clutch return spring and the pedal drops to the floor, it's not a standard diaphragm clutch, so not sure what exactly it's supposed to do, I'm not going down this path right now


thoughts?
 
Working thru book now

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you should probably consider power washing that thing before you start dropping crap into non-crap-friendly spaces
 
Projectjunkie

Nice you have a book. I was ready to take pics. I dont remeber which ger you said this old girl is stuck in.that being said it could be as easy as the ball and dent are tusted on that rod... were the cup covers rubber boots on shift still ?does it look as if moisture inside? Sorry screen is cracked on my phone hard to tell.
 
Well, I'll take lucky over good any day

I pulled the cover off the tranny and diff and found the 4 speed rods rusted, sprayed some magical stuff in there and started tapping on the ends of the rods and got them both free

I worked them a bunch and put it halfway back together, I fired it up, it pulls against the buckets forward and reverse, I'm stoked :grinpimp:

I covered everything back up and an gonna be off it for a week.

I'm gonna order a front tire

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I suppose you got more sharp rocks down there to get the sidewalls with
up here that front would get whatever garbage car tire was on the pile
 
[486 said:
;n172295]I suppose you got more sharp rocks down there to get the sidewalls with
up here that front would get whatever garbage car tire was on the pile

If it's a 16 I have had good luck at the local shop digging a LT tire out of their pile.

Aaron Z
 
Honestly after spending 850 on transport, $125 for a new tire is a drop in the bucket:laughing:

I'll keep this for a while, I'll try to do it right
 
I forgot to mention i found a couple drops of black oil in coolant when I first got to the dead machine, now after maybe thirty minutes of run time there's substantially more, a few ounces at least, but no coolant milkshake in the crankcase, it's got the mini oil cooler under the filter like the one pictured, i suspect it's bad, I may eliminate it and check before dropping $200 on a guess:laughing:

while following coolant lines from the cooler, I saw some coolant dripping from water pump, add that to the list

Anybody got a supply house they like?

also ordered my tire:smokin:

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I'm going to look at one tomarrow. I saw it last week on a drive. I sware it had 555 on the hood. It was yellow though. Not sure if Ford painted theirs yellow. Can you give me any info I could use while looking at it?

sorry about the hyjack, Project

Yes, Ford did paint them yellow, and 555 is a common Ford hoe.

They've been made for something like 50 yrs though, so what year/series it is matters.

Should weight about 15k.

A backhoe in good shape shouldn't have any real issue with a 25 mile drive, though it's not the most comfortable way to go, and you'll want to avoid busy roads. However, I'd be very cautious with an unknown machine. Lots of things that can go wrong, and entirely possible that steering is loose, brakes fade, power is low, etc. and it becomes much more painful that you think. Also, driving down the road for a number of miles is a different load than normal operations, so there's no real good way to know how it will behave until you start driving.
 
I forgot to mention i found a couple drops of black oil in coolant when I first got to the dead machine, now after maybe thirty minutes of run time there's substantially more, a few ounces at least, but no coolant milkshake in the crankcase, it's got the mini oil cooler under the filter like the one pictured, i suspect it's bad, I may eliminate it and check before dropping $200 on a guess:laughing:
looks almost like 3/4" hoses on that image
mid-2000s and later ford E-series vans got one in a reasonably similar configuration, if you're looking for a junkyard solution
 
[486 said:
;n173498]
looks almost like 3/4" hoses on that image
mid-2000s and later ford E-series vans got one in a reasonably similar configuration, if you're looking for a junkyard solution

This is my favorite junkyard oil cooler but new aftermarket ones are so cheap (IIRC $20-something) that I stopped going to the junkyard. The bolt is like $10 online and has enough meat that you can drill and tap it for whatever thread your block has after you cut off the male threads you don't need.
 
[486 said:
;n173498]
looks almost like 3/4" hoses on that image
mid-2000s and later ford E-series vans got one in a reasonably similar configuration, if you're looking for a junkyard solution

As did Volvo on their turbo 4 cylinder cars and their 6 cylinder 960/S80/V90 cars. They might have also had them on their 850/S70/V70/XC70s.

Aaron Z
 
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