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Picked up a shitbox!

I'm not sure if it will happen.... But I am working on the wife to let me upgrade to a better tire. Inventory is still limited on most tires.

I am looking at the Mickey thompson Pro XS 38" tires... Summit has plenty in stock.
Also looking at the Patogonia black label 38" tires. Northridge4x4 has them in stock.

The patagonia tires are a sticky compound, but I dont know shit about them.... Mickey tires look sick, but I've actually kind of heard bad stuff about them.

For now I'll buy a cheap set of steelies and make my own bead locks if I do this.

This is all depending on my wife saying yes though! Because I've only wheeled my jeep 3 times so far and the tires are practically new. However I feel I could get all my money back on them and that will cover 70% of the new tires.
 
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Damn, I've never checked out this thread because the title said shitbox. Just went through all 6 pages.

Not seeing the shit in your shitbox:flipoff2:

Well done Sir
 
Thanks for the comments y'all!

Took it to Barnwell Mountain for the day Saturday. The thing just flat out works. I am liking the boggers less and less though, even aired down to 5 psi, they just dont bite very well on rocks! I really hope I get stickies before NYE run.


The only things this jeep needs is a new mastercylinder (leaks really bad), power steering hose to the cooler, I might beef up the high steer (it's not as ridgid as I would like on the rocks). Other than that, the jeep feels very complete and solid!


Not sure the link will work (my first time linking a fb video in a thread). But here is a vid of the jeep!



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Looked like a gnarly drop in.

It was a pretty good one. We didn't know it at the time, but supposedly a 2 door JK rolled going down it just a couple hours before we did it. We noticed a bunch of plastic and stuff at the bottom, but didn't think much of it.
 
You found rocks at Barnwell? All I ever find when I go there is red mud that takes weeks to clean off. :flipoff2:


Btw..... Jeep looks killer. :smokin:
 
Ok, so after much much talk with the wife she agreed-ish to letting me buy new tires. I have to sell my current ones first, so they will be going on the marketplace tonight probably asking 1300 for the tires and 400 for wheels or 1500 for the entire set if someone buys it together. I'm hoping that moves them pretty fast that is $1500 less than if someone tried to order all that new and it practically is new.

For now, unless I can find some used I am going to just make my own beadlock wheels. I'll buy a cheap set of steelies and just make my own 32 bolt beadlocks. I've done a lot of them back when I was in my 20's.

I am looking at my options and asking for opinions- I am only looking at tires that are good and in stock which isn't a ton. I know there are some people out there that will tell me that d44 wont hold up to 38" tires, but I will make them work. I am a crawler guy, and barely ever use the skinny pedal, and I have chromoly axles front and rear w/ spares for the front and I'm about to order spares for the rear. I have a buddy that is pushing me really hard to go BFG reds, but at 39" tall and $900 a tire I am pretty sure that wont happen.

First option and my only sticky tire on the list is the Patagonia black label. 38x13.5r17 list on NR4x4 for $434 a tire. I like the price, but have heard that they are about 2" shorter than advertised.
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Maxxis Creepy crawlers bias ply 38x13r15 for $643 a tire on summit racing. I like them, but they are the most expensive option and still use a 15" rim kind of takes away a little.
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39.5x13.5r15 irok bias ply for $496 a tire on summit (summit doesn't show a quanity in stock, it just says limited stock, but ships tomorrow). No one has 16.5 in stock and 4wp told me it could be 6 months before they have a set. I dont like the looks of these tires, but they are a tried and true tire that work well and are light for a 39.5" tire and are also a really cheap option.
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38x13.5r17 Mickey thompson xs bias ply for $607 a tire on summit. They also have the 40" tire for $696, but as much as I want them I know that is too much for my d44 axles.
MTBPXS.jpg
 
Personally I like the Creepy Crawlers the best cost aside, and if you are sticking with 1/2 ton axles, I prefer 15" wheels. The only reason to go with 17" wheels on a 1/2 ton axle in my opinion is to have more options in the future, but if you upgrade to one tons, you're going to need new wheels any way.

The black labels aren't bad for the money, but in my experience, they have pretty thin sidewalls. The ones I've seen were true to size, but I can't say I've seen the 38s in person, mostly 35", 37", and 40" versions. They are probably the worst for the mud of all the tires you posted if you care about that sort of thing.

Iroks are okay, but I've never been particularly impressed by them. I think 38s are at the ragged edge for Dana 44s, but you wouldn't be the first person I've seen running 39.5" Iroks on a Dana 44. 39.5" is getting to be too much sidewall on a 15" wheel in my opinion.

I don' like the Micky Thompsons, but that's just because I think they look stupid :flipoff2: Haven't really seen the non-stickies in action, so I can't comment on those.
 
Got some new shoes comin! Really excited..... Not gonna say what they are just yet...

I need a little help though... I am making my own beadlocks and my new 17" steel wheels came in yesterday. I have DXF files for 15", 16" and 16.5" beadlocks but not 17" beadlocks. Does anyone know the standard bolt centerline for 17" beadlocks?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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Just my opinion having run weld on beadlocks and alum beadlocks....go buy a set of dirty lifes, or RBP cobra wheels. The weight savings alone is worth the cost.
 
If I could sell my weld on beadlocks and get these I would. I have weld on beadlocks and they’re probably going to work great. They’re just heavy with a 40” tire.


They’re steel (cheap) and the company doesn’t have their new aluminum ones in stock.
 
I appreciate the insight, but I have already purchased and taken receipt of my new 17" steelies.... My tires are supposed to be in tomorrow, and I plan to do all my welding and putting together this weekend... hopefully....
 
I doubt there is a ‘standard’ bolt centerline. If you’re making your own beadlocks you can pick your own centerline.
If you want, I can measure the DIY rings I have at home and post a photo later tonight. I assume you’re asking for how far in from the edge the bolt holes are.
 
I went with a 16" bolt centerline.

Got the wheels welded up, painted and installed the new Mickey Thompson Baja boss pro XS tires.

I have one little issue. I under estimated the back spacing on my old wheels vs my new wheels. I swore that my h1's were 3.5" back spacing, so when I got my new wheels at 4" back spacing I though eh... 1/2" isn't that bad. But turns out my h1's were 2.5" back spacing which is kind of a big deal. My front tires rub my control arms horribly now and my rears are tucked up under the fenders. I'm looking at cutting the centers out and move them in as far as I can go.... Kinda bummed right now, knowing I have to take it all apart again and do more cutting and welding!

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yes crazy wide. what was your outside of tire width from side to side?
I’ll check tonight, or when I mount 40s up again. It’s currently on some Dodge 18” wheels and 35s. It’s stock width with no spacers and I cut what I needed to make tires fit. Sadly, they’re worn out 40s so I’ll probably have to cut more if I ever buy brand new tires.
 
yes crazy wide. what was your outside of tire width from side to side?
I think it was right around 81" before... I'm going to measure tonight and start figuring my best plan of attack. It'd be nice to take advantage of this mishap and maybe moving my spacing enough to get rid of the wheel spacers all together, but I dont think I have that much movement in the rim.
 
lol.... Not yet. I am keeping an eye on the market place for a pass drop 60 to build though. Those things are becoming as rare as unicorn jizz... May end up buying a pre 2000's ford 60 and modify the tubes into a pass drop.
i have seen this done and one guy here local did that also and its not crazy hard once you get past cutting a dana 60 in half :lmao::lmao:
 
I think Nate from Dirt Lifestyle or something on Yourube did it as well. He bought some fancy $14k custom axles, they didn’t work, so he bought a Super Duty and flipped the tubes then cut it to fit his vehicle. It probably costs $2,500 to build one if you get Reid/Crane parts involved from the Inner Cs going out.


SOMMUHMUH BITCH
Guess I paid attention that day.
 
I think Nate from Dirt Lifestyle or something on Yourube did it as well. He bought some fancy $14k custom axles, they didn’t work, so he bought a Super Duty and flipped the tubes then cut it to fit his vehicle. It probably costs $2,500 to build one if you get Reid/Crane parts involved from the Inner Cs going out.


SOMMUHMUH BITCH
Guess I paid attention that day.
I think you have that backwards.....
 
I think you have that backwards.....
Apparently I do. He took a Ford Super Dury Dana 60 and made it passenger drop. After that he bought the custom axles because the passenger drop Ford Dana 60 didn’t work.

The point of the post was to offer some info on making a newer, and easier to find cheap, axle to work with this project.
 
In this thread here


CJKnoll96 made a passenger drop modern d60, with pics...
 
In this thread here


CJKnoll96 made a passenger drop modern d60, with pics...


Thank you!

I have a buddy that claims he will sell me some mud truck axles for the cheaps. He said the rear is a sterling 10.5 with factory disc brakes and the front is a 95 f350 dana 60 that has single ended ram, redneck high steer. He said rear is leaf setup and front is 4 link. He said both axles are complete brake to brake and supposedly both had detroit lockers and 4.88 gears, but front is completely locked up and doesn't know if it's brakes or something broke inside. But he said he will take $500 for both if I help him dig them out from behind his shop...

This may be the perfect setup to start cutting and chopping on....
 
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