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Picked up a shitbox!

My measurement was inside of flange to end of splines.

I get the cutting to length, and I figured that is the same way I'll do it. Slide em in, measure how far they stick out, cut that amount off... easy peasy...

I guess I could try to slide the tape into the housing and see if I can get a measurement from inside the carrier to the outside of the mounting face of the axle housing and see if I can get by with a little longer shaft.
 
i think thats how i measured mine too, inside. and whats funny as shit. i googled dana 70 rear axle 32 spline length and it pops up 36.71 inches. i wonder when you switch to 35 spline carrier if the axles dont go in as far or something. it might be worth a call to who ever you like in the gear and axle dept.
 
Mill 1/8 off the hub and turn 1/8 off the inside of the bolt flange? :lmao::homer:
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i think thats how i measured mine too, inside. and whats funny as shit. i googled dana 70 rear axle 32 spline length and it pops up 36.71 inches. i wonder when you switch to 35 spline carrier if the axles dont go in as far or something. it might be worth a call to who ever you like in the gear and axle dept
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That is a damn good point. I wonder if I put in a call to Yukon if they could help me out on this. Worst case scenario, I could just wait until I put the carrier in and then re-measure and see what changed.
 
DFW Rusty said:
That is a damn good point. I wonder if I put in a call to Yukon if they could help me out on this. Worst case scenario, I could just wait until I put the carrier in and then re-measure and see what changed.
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especially since that axles are not needed for anything till the carrier is in and gears are set. it still can be a roller if need be while you wait. and they are cut to fit so its not like you have wait for some special one off thing.
 
Only thing I would worry about with ordering the longer one and cutting it down would be bottoming out the splines depending on how much extra they give you. With the shorter one you are in theory giving up 1\4" of spline but you don't run the risk of the shaft not seating.
 
I think Dutchman, would make you custom length 1541 shafts for like 185 each, and you wouldn't have to put them in your chop saw.

I think getting the locker in the housing and measuring the 35 spline carrier is the best bet. I know my ARB has different shaft requirements than a Detroit.
 
If your first measurement was 34 3/4, then the second was 36 3/4 I’d measure a third time. I might even make sure I’m pushing on the tape measure instead of pulling so I can account for THAT extra little bit.

Second option is to order the 1/4” shaft and do a direct comparison to what you have now.
 
RunningProblem said:
If your first measurement was 34 3/4, then the second was 36 3/4 I’d measure a third time. I might even make sure I’m pushing on the tape measure instead of pulling so I can account for THAT extra little bit.

Second option is to order the 1/4” shaft and do a direct comparison to what you have now.
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The 34.75" measurement was a memory issue.... I measured and then didn't write it down, by the next morning I couldn't remember what the measurement was. 36.75 was the exact, I marked it down on my phone after I measured it.
 
Parts are starting to arrive.... im getting pretty damn excited!
20230106_170811.jpg
20230106_170912.jpg
 
Got the diff close to set last night. I am about .0035 of backlash, I typically like about 4-5, but this is on sloppy setup bearings so my thoughts are when I press on the actual bearings I should compress about .0005 or so out of it. My pattern looks pretty good. I just have to disassemble and install my permanent bearings and reassemble and I should be done with that tonight. I did grind a little clearence on the face of the diff housing, there was a little corner that was catching the teeth when I was trying to drop the diff in, I had to grind about 1/8" off.

Ordering my axles today, with the detroit, it measures 35.25". I have a question, while looking for axles... The cheapest outlet for Yukon 4340 shafts was on amazon for $232... But then I found these DuraSolid 4340 for $144 each... I googled reviews and on the old place people were saying there was some issues with some arriving broke but the thread was from 10 years ago. Does anyone have any current experiences with them? I could literally buy 2 and a spare for the price of 2 yukons.... I'm ordering the shafts and my PSC stuff today. Hoping to order my new rims on Monday.

That diff and ring gear take up a lot of room inside that housing, but I did some googling last night and the 1 or 2 pics of 7.17 gears installed looked like this. That ring gear is FAAAT.
20230119_173719.jpg
20230119_173724.jpg
 
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DFW Rusty said:
Got the diff close to set last night. I am about .0035 of backlash, I typically like about 4-5, but this is on sloppy setup bearings so my thoughts are when I press on the actual bearings I should compress about .0005 or so out of it. My pattern looks pretty good. I just have to disassemble and install my permanent bearings and reassemble and I should be done with that tonight. I did grind a little clearence on the face of the diff housing, there was a little corner that was catching the teeth when I was trying to drop the diff in, I had to grind about 1/8" off.

Ordering my axles today, with the detroit, it measures 35.25". I have a question, while looking for axles... The cheapest outlet for Yukon 4340 shafts was on amazon for $232... But then I found these DuraSolid 4340 for $144 each... I googled reviews and on the old place people were saying there was some issues with some arriving broke but the thread was from 10 years ago. Does anyone have any current experiences with them? I could literally buy 2 and a spare for the price of 2 yukons.... I'm ordering the shafts and my PSC stuff today. Hoping to order my new rims on Monday.

That diff and ring gear take up a lot of room inside that housing, but I did some googling last night and the 1 or 2 pics of 7.17 gears installed looked like this. That ring gear is FAAAT.
20230119_173719.jpg
20230119_173724.jpg
Click to expand...
Yeah, but the pinion is Itty bitty
 
Those Dutchman shafts I linked on the last page are about the same price as Yukon, and are made to length...

And Dura Solid shafts that arrived broken? How does that even happen? Usually if something is 50% of the going rate of cost, there is a reason.
 
Opiebennett said:
Those Dutchman shafts I linked on the last page are about the same price as Yukon, and are made to length...

And Dura Solid shafts that arrived broken? How does that even happen? Usually if something is 50% of the going rate of cost, there is a reason.
Click to expand...


I already ordered the Yukon axles. I thought about it after I posted that, I was like why even take a chance... It's not that much more and I put yukons in and forget about them for a long time. Says they will be here Monday.
 
I am ordering a set of battleborn 17x9x3.5 gate keeper beadlocks today.

My Yukon axles came in and I got them put in last night. I am waiting on my axle seals and spindle nut retainers and I can call this axle 100% done and ready to roll under the jeep and weld up my tabs.

My PSC ram and pump should be here today so I am planning on starting my front axle in the next day or so.


I was super bummed that I didn't get any yukon stickers, not the round ones that go on the axle or a yukon sticker that I can put on the shop fridge... :(
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20230123_183130.jpg
 
rear locker or spool? i ask because i have a spool and i go through axle flange gaskets like mad, also stage 8 fasteners will be your friend for the rear axle
 
chaplinfj60 said:
rear locker or spool? i ask because i have a spool and i go through axle flange gaskets like mad, also stage 8 fasteners will be your friend for the rear axle
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Could have bought a Sterling for what those fancy studs and nuts cost. :flipoff2:
 
this is very true, i only went dana 60 for 7.17 but hind sight i should have went 14 bolt or sterling. anf if this 60 breaks its 14 bolt time
 
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