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Pick an engine, 66 Fairlane edition

Is a “power pack” style ECM and stand-alone harness to cost prohibitive?

I have a friend here in town that swapped a coyote 5.0 and 6 speed manual from a wrecked mustang into an old ford station wagon. It’s a rad little car.

I used the ford Motorsports powerpack on my ecoboost and it was so easy it was stupid. They’ve went up in price since I bought mine but everything dam thing is ridiculous.
 
351c witha stick, stroker 429/460 with Kaase wedge heads, or some kinda turbo inline something, maybe a turbo 2.3. I believe there was a silver 2.3 fox body in drag week several years ago that ran eights, I believe. We always went the big block route but they are a pain with the fit and heat. A straight motor has more room for air around it and
 
Penetrode Offroad said:
Why on earth would you purposely swap a jag motor into anything?


OP, I was going to suggest doing the same thing the one guy did with the other old car until I realized you were that same guy. :homer:
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They are actually very good motors. The issues with any 'real' Jags were Lucas electrical and electronics, and dumb-ass long-way-around-the-block Englishman design of peripheral components.
 
Aisin said:
I was thinking the same thing. That pile of shit Jag motor makes less power than the engine the car came with in 1966. The only thing I would put a jag motor in is a dumpster.
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How many and which type have you owned?
 
3.5 Ecoboost and 6R80, I spied a yellow 64 T-bird the other day that could rock that combo like a boss. This one could too.
 
ANGRYBLACK said:
I'm going to do it eventually. I really want to do an old pre plastic bumper MG or spitfire but im 6'3 so it would be useless for me.:shaking:I have my eye on something else thats later and has room though. I'd just need the body, build a chassis from 2" chromo tube and set the body onto it. Meh, thats at least 8-10 years away if im still alive and kickin
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?? I'm 6' 5" and once had an MGB. Top off no problem and had the removable hard top, which had tons of headroom inside.
 
plym49.2 said:
?? I'm 6' 5" and once had an MGB. Top off no problem and had the removable hard top, which had tons of headroom inside.
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There were two i tried to buy when i was 15. My eyes top down are at the windshield frame:shaking:. Back then i wanted to swap in my hopped up Toyota 3TC.
 
JR4X said:
Is a “power pack” style ECM and stand-alone harness to cost prohibitive?

I have a friend here in town that swapped a coyote 5.0 and 6 speed manual from a wrecked mustang into an old ford station wagon. It’s a rad little car.
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I’m not familiar with a “power pack”. It’s not necessary though. As long as I’m starting with something port injected I can run it and tune it.

Coyote is probably the right answer. Big and expensive are the things killing it for me though.
 
70 tp said:
351c witha stick, stroker 429/460 with Kaase wedge heads, or some kinda turbo inline something, maybe a turbo 2.3. I believe there was a silver 2.3 fox body in drag week several years ago that ran eights, I believe. We always went the big block route but they are a pain with the fit and heat. A straight motor has more room for air around it and
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Did the turbo 4 cyl thing in a falcon before if you follow the link in my first post. It was great but I’m thinking more for this car
 
mjlogan88 said:
I’m not familiar with a “power pack”. It’s not necessary though. As long as I’m starting with something port injected I can run it and tune it.

Coyote is probably the right answer. Big and expensive are the things killing it for me though.
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Big is the problem. More hp per cid than any LS and even more so with boost. Those little guys are pretty cheap as a junkyard motor but the power pack is $2,000.

I’m not familiar with megasquirt. Can it run the cam phaser’s for the variable cam timing? I would never have attempted to self tune my ecoboost. But Ford sells a stand-alone kit that lets you keep all the fancy shit like variable vane turbo, variable cam timing, DBW, etc. it was legit plug and play. Powers, grounds, plugs that matched the engine and ancillaries.
 
roundhouse said:
They made several years with a OBD 1 and mass air I think

Mine is a 89 or 90 mustang and it has mass air .
The pickups had speed density .
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Was referring to the 351, so yeah trucks and Bronco's which were all SD with the exception of that one MY Cali trim
 
What did they butcher the fastback mustang in Fast Furious Tokyo Drift with? There is your answer:homer:

I've thought about doing turbo 4.3L Vortec(think 2000ish) for another project. I think it is semi-unusual and has enough 'base power' to overcome turbo off idle issue. Helps that I've already got engine:shaking:
 
mjlogan88 said:
Last thread turned into a good one Modern 4 cylinder swap options

So lets try it again with a bigger car and more cylinders but similar execution. Car is a 66 Fairlane that is just the right amount of gone that I don't mind hacking it up

Things I would like:

  • Boost, which I will add
  • 3 pedals, prefer factory bolt together option
  • modern enough to have decent flowing factory head
  • cheap and plentiful
  • port injection

Things I don't want or care about
  • Factory PCM, I will megasquirt it or maybe holley terminator it
  • Antiquated oil leaking boat anchors with wheezing cylinder heads
  • LS engines
  • Brand loyalty
  • direct injection
  • Diesel

Candidates, in order of what i'm thinking

1. 3.7 V6 out of a '11+ mustang or F150 using mustang 6 speed. Only thing I don't like is that it will probably sound like garbage
2. Atlas 4200 out of a trailblazer, questionable manual trans adaptation
3. Mod motor, not crazy about the size
4. SBF, 351, kinda fails bullet point #2 on things i dont want
5. wild card, bmw straight 6, N50 something or other non vanos. I know nothing about them but a friend recommended them?


Lets hear what you've got

Here's a pic of the victim
IMG-7341.jpg

IMG-7009.jpg
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my first car was a 66 Galaxie 500. Grandpa bought it new, handed down to uncle, then mom, then brother, and finally me. I got it in 1980. Had a 352 V8. Was a 4 door. Same color originally, but somewhere was with battleship grey (grandpa worked in the PSNS shipyard).

Big heavy car NEEDS big heavy torquey engine.
 
ANGRYBLACK said:
I'm going to do it eventually. I really want to do an old pre plastic bumper MG or spitfire but im 6'3 so it would be useless for me.:shaking:I have my eye on something else thats later and has room though. I'd just need the body, build a chassis from 2" chromo tube and set the body onto it. Meh, thats at least 8-10 years away if im still alive and kickin
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MG MGB GT and push the seat back.

2 decades ago a guy in Tucson showed up with one that they swapped a turned 2jz in. He had to mini tub the rear and run drag radials for any kind of traction :smokin:
 
or an EFI 300 with a 240 head and some kinda junkyard turbo, E-85 because high compression plus boost means you're gonna be pulling a lot of timing regardless

fuck an SBF, they're worse than LS motors imo
at least the chevy is 'the easy button' where the ford needs all manner of higher dollar parts to make enough scoot to be interesting (because no generi-v8 is impressive to look at)
 
Roc Doc said:
Was referring to the 351, so yeah trucks and Bronco's which were all SD with the exception of that one MY Cali trim
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Oh yeah
Sorry bought the confusion

But its easy to swap
The mustang mass air onto the roller 351 from the trucks

Some bronco place makes an adapter to use the mustang upper intake on the 351 truck lower intake .
 
The one that makes the most sense is to buy a 95-01 explorer or mountaineer with 5.0 4r70w and 31spl 8.8 disc for the rear

Gt40 intake and heads, gtp 98 and up.

You buy the whole thing for like $700 then add boost as needed. The factory cam and "headers" leave a lot to be desired, but it's the fastest cheapest way to get to 300hp and lockup overdrive.

Not nearly as wild as the rest of the stuff out there, but turn key and go
 
Projectjunkie said:
The one that makes the most sense is to buy a 95-01 explorer or mountaineer with 5.0 4r70w and 31spl 8.8 disc for the rear

Gt40 intake and heads, gtp 98 and up.

You buy the whole thing for like $700 then add boost as needed. The factory cam and "headers" leave a lot to be desired, but it's the fastest cheapest way to get to 300hp and lockup overdrive.

Not nearly as wild as the rest of the stuff out there, but turn key and go
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c2c807c5d170c3e007a10945d7afaaa0e5035678492f1d5bbb.jpg
 
Roller cam 5.8 with decent heads would be the easiest fun option.

V10 modular would be the most unique if it fits. They sound pretty good wound out. Could do something fun with the intake manifold if you're megasquirting it. Plenty of donor trucks out there.

20210908_180117.jpg
 
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JR4X said:
Big is the problem. More hp per cid than any LS and even more so with boost. Those little guys are pretty cheap as a junkyard motor but the power pack is $2,000.

I’m not familiar with megasquirt. Can it run the cam phaser’s for the variable cam timing? I would never have attempted to self tune my ecoboost. But Ford sells a stand-alone kit that lets you keep all the fancy shit like variable vane turbo, variable cam timing, DBW, etc. it was legit plug and play. Powers, grounds, plugs that matched the engine and ancillaries.
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Yes you can control vct with all manner of aftermarket ecu. Not usually the cheap versions of them, but it's available.
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
Or 5.7 Hemi and turbo. Drive it everywhere with lots of power on tap.
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$3500 for powertrain combo, and then get to deal with tranny problems, no free lunch:homer:

The turbo ls is the proven 3k 500hp option but he doesn't want it. The last sbf was the most improved, and is a sweet swap into old Fords. It's cheap, like way cheap and reliable 300hp and 20mpg. China turbo and reasonable tranny work to 500hp, then you gotta pay to play :laughing:
 
Projectjunkie said:
Yeah, but then he can add boost till the block splits like they do at 600:usa:
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Everyone thinks they need 1k hp now a days.

I'm at about 550 now in theory in the above mentioned explorer 5.0 and it's fucking stupid. Without some real thinking while driving, it is stupid easy to get in trouble.

I can honestly say that without some major chassis work I don't want more powa in my setup.
 
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