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Panzers: I break rocks thread

budget76 said:
quoting for next year:flipoff2:
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If it’s worth doing once it’s worth doing 3 times :lmao::homer:. Finally got it :smokin:.
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TiTRD said:
Quick tour of a mobile operation.

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Nice little video. Kinda sucks they didn’t get any good shots of the screens, cone jaw working. My best day was 7000 ton making wash gravel for our washplant. Typically it’s more along the lines of 2500- 3000 ton a day for most stuff.

Side note I took the cheapest milling machine powerfeed off Amazon and adapted it to my line boring rig. So pumped. No more cranking handles all day.

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ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Nice little video. Kinda sucks they didn’t get any good shots of the screens, cone jaw working. My best day was 7000 ton making wash gravel for our washplant. Typically it’s more along the lines of 2500- 3000 ton a day for most stuff.

Side note I took the cheapest milling machine powerfeed off Amazon and adapted it to my line boring rig. So pumped. No more cranking handles all day.

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So you are Ron Popeil now? You can set it and forget it? Nice, how much time will this save you? Watching the video above it is cutting that fast? for some reason I would have thought it would be slower.
 
Louis Winthorpe III said:
So you are Ron Popeil now? You can set it and forget it? Nice, how much time will this save you? Watching the video above it is cutting that fast? for some reason I would have thought it would be slower.
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lol cannot do that yet. You can see in my hurry to get it functional the limit switch is conveniently laying on the ground as not to interfere with anything :lmao:.
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As for speeds it’s about right. The Milwaukee loses lots o torque if you vary the speed down. It’s not chattering or making any rookie noises so we go with it. Everything gets machine by braille in these parts :lmao:. I don’t even know the correct feeds and speeds for anything. Just wing it. :lmao::homer:.
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The tool is an absolute beast. It’s a solid carbide super sharp positively ground tool. I think they are used in Swiss machines where the parts rigidity is an issue.
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She is making beautiful chips so I roll with it.
 
that drill motor's strange, it doesn't have the socket and collar for the bit like most of them have
they musta had to make it proprietary for some stupid bean counter reason
 
[486] said:
that drill motor's strange, it doesn't have the socket and collar for the bit like most of them have
they musta had to make it proprietary for some stupid bean counter reason
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:confused:
Looks like a standard drill chuck with an adapter in it to connect to a rod with a through bolt to me (I assume the "shroud" comes off with you pull the bolt):
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Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
:confused:
Looks like a standard drill chuck with an adapter in it to connect to a rod with a through bolt to me (I assume the "shroud" comes off with you pull the bolt):
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Aaron Z
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Super half assed. Just one bolt through the key chuck hole that get threaded into a slug in the middle:lmao:. Not very fancy but it works.
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This was the cheapest real deal line boring kit I could find at the time. Not one of those really halfass use actual mag drill units. I wanted one I could easily adapt a power feed onto.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Super half assed. Just one bolt through the key chuck hole that get threaded into a slug in the middle:lmao:. Not very fancy but it works.
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This was the cheapest real deal line boring kit I could find at the time. Not one of those really halfass use actual mag drill units. I wanted one I could easily adapt a power feed onto.
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So does it not use the chuck other than a bolt through the hole that you would normally use for the chuck key?
Seems like that could induce a lot of slop into it, but I guess if there's a bearing on each side of the bore that you're actually drilling it doesn't really matter.

Aaron Z
 
huh, all of mine like that got a #3 morse sleeve with a collar, kinda assumed that was the only way they came
aczlan said:
but I guess if there's a bearing on each side of the bore that you're actually drilling it doesn't really matter.
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lots of setups put a driveshaft inline with two universal joints
so that the motor weight doesn't drag the bar out of line with the holes
 
[486] said:
huh, all of mine like that got a #3 morse sleeve with a collar, kinda assumed that was the only way they came

lots of setups put a driveshaft inline with two universal joints
so that the motor weight doesn't drag the bar out of line with the holes
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That would be the best way as it I’ll get tight if I don’t get the bar to bearing to hub adapter all in a line. That driveshaft however would make it pretty long.

The best is a pass through setup where the bar pass completely through the motor and feed assembly. That way I could put it inside between the arms and not just solely on the ends. Those are the 18-45k units :lmao:.
 
aczlan said:
So does it not use the chuck other than a bolt through the hole that you would normally use for the chuck key?
Seems like that could induce a lot of slop into it, but I guess if there's a bearing on each side of the bore that you're actually drilling it doesn't really matter.

Aaron Z
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You need the slop:lmao:. Nothing is perfect in this setup haha. But even though it’s far from perfect with a little attention and some intelligence you can turn out far more accurate holes than actual accuracy of tool.

Surface finish is actually better than the hole I fucked up 2 times in the Bridgeport. This bar is a hell of alot stiffer than that setup. The marks you see is me rapidly traverse the tool out as it was spinning. Just cutting the hole round so I can weld it up. Final pass will get all the effort.

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[486] said:
remember that gear reducer you were offering me because it had a straight bore hub?

you know what must be done
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Way way overkill with that guy. :lmao: Plus the damn box weighs close to 100+ pounds:lmao:. That thing can take 10hp all day.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Way way overkill with that guy. :lmao: Plus the damn box weighs close to 100+ pounds:lmao:. That thing can take 10hp all day.
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Something more like this then (with an appropriate 56C motor attached to it and bolted in place of the drill, then a hollow keyed shaft reducer of the appropriate size to match the shaft that goes to the boring head): Aluminum Right Angle Worm Gear Reducer, 40 mm C.D., 7.5/1, 56C Input Flange, Hollow Bore Output Worldwide CALM40-7.5/1-56C | Aluminum Worm Gear Reducers | Right Angle Gear Reducers | Gear Reducers | www.surpluscenter.com
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Aaron Z
 
Your chips are silver, not cutting fast enough.

Welds are hard on tooling, uncoated carbide you should stick to around 200sfm. Feed rate, till the motor starts to bog.
 
aczlan said:
Something more like this then (with an appropriate 56C motor attached to it and bolted in place of the drill, then a hollow keyed shaft reducer of the appropriate size to match the shaft that goes to the boring head): Aluminum Right Angle Worm Gear Reducer, 40 mm C.D., 7.5/1, 56C Input Flange, Hollow Bore Output Worldwide CALM40-7.5/1-56C | Aluminum Worm Gear Reducers | Right Angle Gear Reducers | Gear Reducers | www.surpluscenter.com
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Aaron Z
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I have an assortment of those laying around work.
 
aczlan said:
then a hollow keyed shaft reducer of the appropriate size to match the shaft that goes to the boring head)
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you want slop between drive and bar

something like a pipe with a pin through one of the bar's holes
then that pipe pinned to the reducer with a couple SHCS riding in clearance holes that fit the head of the screw, positioned 90 deg out of sync with the cross pin
think of it like one of them tap holders that lets the tap move around
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
You need the slop:lmao:. Nothing is perfect in this setup haha. But even though it’s far from perfect with a little attention and some intelligence you can turn out far more accurate holes than actual accuracy of tool.

Surface finish is actually better than the hole I fucked up 2 times in the Bridgeport. This bar is a hell of alot stiffer than that setup. The marks you see is me rapidly traverse the tool out as it was spinning. Just cutting the hole round so I can weld it up. Final pass will get all the effort.

IMG_9463.jpeg
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My son took after his dad and thought he would give mining a go, he has been running a short boom 988H. And it started pushing out the boom to main frame pins to the point of breaking the retainer bolts that the flag part hits.
Super calls in Boyd cat dealer, they line bored one side installed new pins bushings. Didnt touch the other side installed used pin an bushings. Run it.
Bad side started pushing pin out to the point of hiting boom kickout after about 40 or so hours he said.
He said they are trying to not pay the $15,000 bill.
 
baldduck1974 said:
My son took after his dad and thought he would give mining a go, he has been running a short boom 988H. And it started pushing out the boom to main frame pins to the point of breaking the retainer bolts that the flag part hits.
Super calls in Boyd cat dealer, they line bored one side installed new pins bushings. Didnt touch the other side installed used pin an bushings. Run it.
Bad side started pushing pin out to the point of hiting boom kickout after about 40 or so hours he said.
He said they are trying to not pay the $15,000 bill.
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lol who only does one side? :lmao:
 
1oddtech said:
Evidently Boyd Cat
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That’s crazy. The cat guys up here would refuse to do that. They were working on a telehandler and it needed axle shaft seals. The mechanic refused to put it back together without new axles. The seals had a huge groove wore in them and they would have leaked right away anyways. So $9,000 later it has new shafts.

They said they wished they could send shit out to get repaired but that’s not the way the dealer works. $1500-$2000 in spray welding the old axles would have been fine. I wasn’t volunteering to do that for them. I have enough of my own shit to deal with. That would have been 8 seals locations to do the repair.
 
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