I had the same thoughts, but seeing other people do it with PLA seemed to wprk. The PLA will still be a few inches from the end of the torch so it should be ok. I figured if it does not work then I can male my torch holder pretty easy with aluminum.
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Once a Postal 67 800 Build
- Thread starter LScout800
- Start date
Got my high steer parts back.
Think they could have shot some oil in the bolt holes to keep it from rusting...
All together minus the caliper. Will probably have to move the ram for drag link clearance.
Threy a tire on and it does not work. He said it should clear an h2 rim but nope, I will see about returning the arm for one of his project arms. It should give me more clearance than this arm, but I don't think it will let me take off the tie rod without removing the arm.
Think they could have shot some oil in the bolt holes to keep it from rusting...
All together minus the caliper. Will probably have to move the ram for drag link clearance.
Threy a tire on and it does not work. He said it should clear an h2 rim but nope, I will see about returning the arm for one of his project arms. It should give me more clearance than this arm, but I don't think it will let me take off the tie rod without removing the arm.
Also more of a PSA, but don't use ruff stuff's cure. Spend the money and do it right with highsteer. It wore out this TRE in just over 100 miles...
Damn thing has 16th inch of play in it and the grease had shiny bits in it. No wonder it drove like shit.
Damn thing has 16th inch of play in it and the grease had shiny bits in it. No wonder it drove like shit.
The Freeak
Pro-Crastinator
Where did the highsteer arm come from?
Sky's offroad. They have a knuckle machining service for ball joint ford knuckles also.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
how does the table work?
Decent. I already have a much better improved design that I will probably build to replace this one. I made a z-axis for it and a THC. I have not had a chance to test that out yet though. The electronics and programming was super simple. Just some youtube tutorials and parts off of amazon. I will probably build another table. I threw this one together with scrap I had laying around and am not super happy with it. It was more of a proof of concept and my first time messing with CNC aside from 3D printing. I have been drafting up a much better one that I will probably build later on this year. It will be much sturdier and more square, and have a much better y-axis. But including the price of the scrap, the electronics, and the plasma cutter I am into this under 1000 bucks.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
still super cool.
Built a new (better) plasma table.
And got this plate cut out for the doubler.
The plate is 1/4 inch, and that transmission adapter is going to get cut down and welded to the plate.
Been messing with plasma table settings, still getting a heavy bevel on anything thicker than 1/8", so this plate needs quite the cleanup.
Been trying to get the scout done, goal was to wheel July 3rd, but will have to push that back. Been having way too many projects aside from this thing that have been taking up my weekends. Hopefully will have some time after work to get a go at this sometime this week.
And got this plate cut out for the doubler.
The plate is 1/4 inch, and that transmission adapter is going to get cut down and welded to the plate.
Been messing with plasma table settings, still getting a heavy bevel on anything thicker than 1/8", so this plate needs quite the cleanup.
Been trying to get the scout done, goal was to wheel July 3rd, but will have to push that back. Been having way too many projects aside from this thing that have been taking up my weekends. Hopefully will have some time after work to get a go at this sometime this week.
Dropped some money on a new toy. A 3D scanner.
Hoping to be able to scan the underside of the truck and drivetrain components. Then I can piece everything together in solidworks and cut out crossmembers and stuff that will just weld together and bolt in.
Interesting on the cure piece, I've been running one on my 4 runner. I'm gonna have to check my stuff now.Also more of a PSA, but don't use ruff stuff's cure. Spend the money and do it right with highsteer. It wore out this TRE in just over 100 miles...
Damn thing has 16th inch of play in it and the grease had shiny bits in it. No wonder it drove like shit.
I might just be an outlier, lots of people run them without much of an issue. Although my steering angles were not bad, and the joints were greased. The TRE was not from ruffstuff but barnes, but near as I could tell it was the same from the pictures. The issues should be gone now that the highsteer is almost together. Need to post some updates this weekend.
Made the adapter plate for the underdrive and mated the transfer case and underdrive together.
Should have enough driveshaft clearance.
Also reinforced the transmission with a lot of bracing from the cut. i then rebuilt/cleaned up the underdrive with new seals and stuff and mated it to the transmission.
Shot it with a coat of hammered brown paint since I had it on the shelf. It came out a lot more shit colored than I thought from the initial spraying. Fitting since it is all getting stuffed into a shit box.
Adapter and T-case are going on next weekend, then it will get installed in the vehicle again. Need to figure out a shifter for the doubler. I will likely use the shifter that is already there for the T-case and add another that uses a cable for the underdrive.
Should have enough driveshaft clearance.
Also reinforced the transmission with a lot of bracing from the cut. i then rebuilt/cleaned up the underdrive with new seals and stuff and mated it to the transmission.
Shot it with a coat of hammered brown paint since I had it on the shelf. It came out a lot more shit colored than I thought from the initial spraying. Fitting since it is all getting stuffed into a shit box.
Adapter and T-case are going on next weekend, then it will get installed in the vehicle again. Need to figure out a shifter for the doubler. I will likely use the shifter that is already there for the T-case and add another that uses a cable for the underdrive.
Korzenowsky
Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2023
- Member Number
- 6624
- Messages
- 14
+1 Watch, Really nice build!
I'm definitely curious how that transfer case holds up, I had sorta the same idea with a divorced 273, but with the extra reduction "hacked cases" mounted on the front and rear outputs of the main case for front digs.
Glad to see someone else has done it, I still have my case blown apart in the shop lol
I'm definitely curious how that transfer case holds up, I had sorta the same idea with a divorced 273, but with the extra reduction "hacked cases" mounted on the front and rear outputs of the main case for front digs.
Glad to see someone else has done it, I still have my case blown apart in the shop lol
It has been done before, they have kits for it. If this entire thing explodes on me I have another one of these transmissions sitting in the corner with bad internals to rob the case off of, and I pony up for an atlas. I have to get out there and finish it because I really want to see how it works and the anticipation is killing me lol.
Winchested
IH Scout SSII
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 2128
- Messages
- 1,404
How long is it from clock ring to output flange?
24 inches. First case is 9, NP241 with sye is 15. Transmission is 24 so entire thing is 48 inches from bell surface to mounting flange.
The 203/205 doubler I have is 20 or 21 inches I believe. I though about using it but I would have had to clock the 205 up so much for a flat belly I would have had to move the seats up. A 241 is a bit smaller so it worked out better. Plus I want to put that in my dentside.
I thought about using the dana 300 that is also on my shelf along with an integrated black box, it would have been an inch or two longer than the 241 by itself. But building the 300 with the blackbox is out of my budget, and at that point a 4 speed atlas is only a few hundred more.
Winchested
IH Scout SSII
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 2128
- Messages
- 1,404
Going to be a steep ass drive shaft angle. But I guess the TJs all had that. Should help keep the driveshaft out of the rocks at least!
Driveshaft was 32 inches before, it will be roughly 25 or something like that maybe a little longer. Sitting at about 103 inch wheelbase since the rear axle is pushed back quite a bit. The engine in this sits fairly far forward, and also very low so driveline angles were never really an issue.
Covered my tranny in foot spray (Normal in California).
Took a scan, and after some post processing it is now an STL in Fusion 360.
I had decided that I did not like the adapter plate I made, so I decided to make a new one. My plan is to also convert this transmission into a CAD model to model crossmembers and stuff in solidworks. Been spending time going from scans to STL's to 3D CAD models but still have yet to do it with as something as complex as a transmission.
I also chopped the old suspension mounts off the frame and spent time cleaning off welds and factory mounts. It all has to move to make way for the transfer case. Still have more to do and it is shitty work I have been trying to avoid but oh well. Goal is to get on the trails by thanksgiving but that likely will not happen. For once all my buddies rigs are wheelable and mine is torn apart in my garage.
Took a scan, and after some post processing it is now an STL in Fusion 360.
I had decided that I did not like the adapter plate I made, so I decided to make a new one. My plan is to also convert this transmission into a CAD model to model crossmembers and stuff in solidworks. Been spending time going from scans to STL's to 3D CAD models but still have yet to do it with as something as complex as a transmission.
I also chopped the old suspension mounts off the frame and spent time cleaning off welds and factory mounts. It all has to move to make way for the transfer case. Still have more to do and it is shitty work I have been trying to avoid but oh well. Goal is to get on the trails by thanksgiving but that likely will not happen. For once all my buddies rigs are wheelable and mine is torn apart in my garage.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
That looks like it came out great. What scanner are you using?
Lynx 3D Scanner
Lynx: Capture fine details with large scanning range. User-friendly software. Experience the precision and affordability of Lynx 3D Scanner at 3DMakerpro.
store.3dmakerpro.com
First one I have used, the scans are all accurate when I measure them on the computer. Slight learning curve and you need a computer with some balls to do large scans like that transmission. I also found that you need to drop the scan into software like Meshlab to simplify/clean up the scan, otherwise it will crash Fusion with the amount of data it imports.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
Lynx 3D Scanner
Lynx: Capture fine details with large scanning range. User-friendly software. Experience the precision and affordability of Lynx 3D Scanner at 3DMakerpro.
First one I have used, the scans are all accurate when I measure them on the computer. Slight learning curve and you need a computer with some balls to do large scans like that transmission. I also found that you need to drop the scan into software like Meshlab to simplify/clean up the scan, otherwise it will crash Fusion with the amount of data it imports.
Dang, that's pretty inexpensive for the resolution you got out of that scan. Keep it up man.
Well had one of my buddies who keeps talking shit for this thing not driving today, and we drank a lot of beer and got to this point.
Everything is in and fits fairly well. The lowest anything hangs down is about an inch below the frame rails. I am looking at a 21" belly under the skidplate so not too worried.
Rear glange comes up right behind the little lip where the floor wnds and bed begins. Looking at a 26 inch driveshaft or so.
Doubler plate is the adapter plate going from transfer case to the transfer case using another adapter plate. Cut both out on my CNC table. They are joined with a piece of 5 inch 1/4" wall pipe.
And why the 205 would have been a shit fest. The seat mounts would have to change, meaning the seats would go up 2-3 inches, meaning my cage would have been too short... 241 will be plenty for this guy.
Everything is in and fits fairly well. The lowest anything hangs down is about an inch below the frame rails. I am looking at a 21" belly under the skidplate so not too worried.
Rear glange comes up right behind the little lip where the floor wnds and bed begins. Looking at a 26 inch driveshaft or so.
Doubler plate is the adapter plate going from transfer case to the transfer case using another adapter plate. Cut both out on my CNC table. They are joined with a piece of 5 inch 1/4" wall pipe.
And why the 205 would have been a shit fest. The seat mounts would have to change, meaning the seats would go up 2-3 inches, meaning my cage would have been too short... 241 will be plenty for this guy.
Attachments
Finished building the transfer case adapter and added a little mount on the bottom.
Also made a simple crossmember with some square tube. Here are the mounts. Was pretty cool to make a carboard template, then just hit cut on the computer instead of having to spend a couple hours cutting and grinding by hand.
Pic of the crossmember in place. Still have to build the front portion, although it will only mount to one side of the frame, as the driveshaft likes to live on the other side and there is no room for a crossmember. (Driveshaft get within a half in of the floor at full droop, and there is no room to cut into the cab there).
The mounts will get beefed up later on. Also cut down the rear shaft. Fully compressed we are looking at 24 inches of length.
Did the same for the front but not super happy with the way it came out, so will probably try again. Hopefully it does not vibrate too bad. If it does I will just order one from Tom Woods. Also got the truck on all fours for the first time in months which is a huge motivator for me.
Also made a simple crossmember with some square tube. Here are the mounts. Was pretty cool to make a carboard template, then just hit cut on the computer instead of having to spend a couple hours cutting and grinding by hand.
Pic of the crossmember in place. Still have to build the front portion, although it will only mount to one side of the frame, as the driveshaft likes to live on the other side and there is no room for a crossmember. (Driveshaft get within a half in of the floor at full droop, and there is no room to cut into the cab there).
The mounts will get beefed up later on. Also cut down the rear shaft. Fully compressed we are looking at 24 inches of length.
Did the same for the front but not super happy with the way it came out, so will probably try again. Hopefully it does not vibrate too bad. If it does I will just order one from Tom Woods. Also got the truck on all fours for the first time in months which is a huge motivator for me.
Debating on what to do moving forward with this. I started building it when I was 16, and the truck had been in several accidents (plus IH frames are hacked from the factory), and the PO had intended this thing to be a hotrod, so it was already kind of cut up. I have been cutting off/redoing work I did when I was 16 and that has only contributed to the hackedness of this chassis. I am debating on scrapping the old chassis entirely and restarting with a new frame and redoing the suspension. But also that means 6+ months of work for me. Thinking of just getting it together to drive and enjoy it, but man does it frustrate me with some of the work on this. Thinking after I get my F250 driving to rip this thing apart and drop the parts into another frame.
The Freeak
Pro-Crastinator
I've been there. Hell, to a certain extent I'm there now with one of my projects.
Any chance a JK frame would be close to the right dimensions?