Once a Postal 67 800 Build

[LScout800]

Forgot I had a build over here. Probably should update it lol. Anyways I installed a yj 15 gallon tank behind the rear axle. These tanks are the same as the CJ-7 tanks, just the fuel pump hole is different. I wanted to put a suburban fuel pump in it, so I extended the sending unit for the fuel pump by welding on some brakelines, then cut the hole on the tank bigger to accept it.

The way the tank mounts is pretty simple. I welded some angle between the framerails in the rear that the skidplate bolts up to.

The tank fits up there nicely, and clears the axle at full bump no issues. For fuel lines I used the fittings and nylon flex lines from a suburban I found in a junkyard. I used some union meant for fuel line repair and some replacement hard tubing for everything else. I figured all these part were designed to work together they might as well work just fine for the high pressure setup on the 5.3, and they were much cheaper than buying an fittings.

 

[LScout800]

I built a hydraulic ram mount on the axle for the steering. It uses a cheap 8 inch ram, and this little bracket I bought from rough stuff.

The axle side simply uses two tabs on the pan hard mount to mount the other side of the ram. I will port the steering box and run some 3/8 lines I had laying around from work.

While on the subject of steering I also built some brackets to hold the steering column in place.

The other side uses the stock location from the dash side to mount it, and the dash is an old scout 80 dash I had laying in my scrap heap.

You can also see the transfer case shifter I built by modifying a k2500 one.

 

[LScout800]

The steering column uses a zj collapsible column for both safety, and because it allows me better clearance as the box does not have to be in line with the column. I simply cut it down, welded the two cut sections back together, and ground the steering shaft to match the zj column. I also welded on a nut to the end of the shaft to keep you from ripping out the steering wheel.

I also figured out my pedal assembly and master cylinders. I welded a plate onto the front of the stock mounting box, then drilled holes to bolt the master cylinders for the clutch and brakes onto it.

The pedal assebely with linkages installed to the master cylinders.

 

[LScout800]

I also installed the clutch on the back of the engine, and since I had tried to reuse the old scout crossmember, it looked really janky and would not let me get to the driveshaft, so I built a new one with some 1 1/4" tubing I had from work.

It clears the driveshaft just fine and looks a whole lot better.

I also built a new core support using some tubing and angle.

The angle has nuts welded underneath to mount the fenders.

 

[LScout800]

I built some bumpstops for the front end. The driver side is real simple, it mounts a poly bumpstop I got off amazon for a few bucks right underneath the frame. It ends up striking the upper radius arm bushing.

The passenger side is a bit more complex. It runs a little shelf off the side of the frame to mount the bumpstop, which lands on a little plate welded to the top of the panhard mount.

The bumpstop compresses another inch or so from here, and the rest of the shock is used in articulation.

The limiting strap mount on the axle side is a tab welded onto the c behind the shock mount. It also serves as extra support for the shock mount.

The frameside mount is a little tab welded to the frame.

I also welded on the brackets from ruffstuff meant to serve as reservoirs mounts to the front of the shockhoops in order to mount the reservoirs.

 

[LScout800]

Patched up all the holes on the passenger side from the right hand drive specific stuff. Then built a battery tray from so angle I had laying around to mount the battery on that side of the engine bay.

Also ordered a set of gauges from amazon shipped straight from shanghai. They were cheap, we will see how long they are going to last.

Cut some diamond plate and used the hole saw to drill holes for the gauges on the dash. I also cut another smaller panel to mount a bunch of toggle switches. I used an old scout 80 dash I had sitting in the corner that someone had already cut apart to fit a big radio. I simply made the panels big enough to cover up the holes they cut in it. I think it looks pretty good.

I also picked up a set of 5 H2 rims in perfect condition for cheap. Still got to bore out the centers for the ford hubs though. I cut the hat off of an old brake rotor I had and bolted it to the rim to act as a template for the hole. I also got a little router bit with a bearing on the bottom to ride against the template. Have not gotten the opportunity to bore them out yet.

Got my PCM back from 150 tunes, and finished putting together the harness (except for the MAF sensor plug, still need to get one of those from the junkyard). Also picked up some sheet metal to build a fan shroud, and got all my lights and my wiring harness so I need to get that all figured out.

 

[Opiebennett]

ICT billet might sell the pigtail connection you need for your MAF / harness.

 

[LScout800]

ICT billet might sell the pigtail connection you need for your MAF / harness.

I have to head down to the local LKQ for a few parts this weekend anyways. Was just going to grab one off of another gen 3 cause there are tons of those in the yards.

 

[CHOGA]

Why are H2 wheels so popular as a swap option?

 

[Opiebennett]

Why are H2 wheels so popular as a swap option?

They used to be cheap aluminum take offs as a 17" wheel with standard 8 lug. H2 owners were practically giving them away, and they look decent. They came with 35" BFG AT's a well, so often you could buy the package and sell the tires, and up with wheels and some walking around money.

 

[CHOGA]

They used to be cheap aluminum take offs as a 17" wheel with standard 8 lug. H2 owners were practically giving them away, and they look decent. They came with 35" BFG AT's a well, so often you could buy the package and sell the tires, and up with wheels and some walking around money.

I thought that maybe they had a preferable backspacing or were Maga strong or something. I’ll see them posted online sometimes for dumb prices like they are hard to find nowadays.

 

[LScout800]

Why are H2 wheels so popular as a swap option?

Basically for the fact they are cheap and still relatively easy to find, they have the old 8 on 6 1/2 bolt pattern so they have the same pattern as pretty much any older 1 ton axle, and they are 17 by 8 so you can run pretty much any of the popular off road tires sizes. I also like the way they look, and they have a decent amount of backspacing, which with these rims and a 65 inch axle I really like the stance of the truck a lot. It also gives a better scrub radius. Although you do have to bore them out a little to fit on ford axles because they are hub centric, but not to big a deal in my opinion.

Update: These rims don't work with high steer as I have found out.

 

[LScout800]

Been a while since an update. Mainly wiring this thing and trying to make it run. Wiring is pretty much done. Just need to add some more grounds, and tidy it up make it look nice. Engine sorta runs. Will fire and run off starting fluid but the fuel line was leaking so it was not getting any fuel pressure. Ordered new lines so it should be running by the end of next week. Once it runs I just need to bleed brakes and clutch, finish steering hydraulics, build cooling system, and tighten up several little things and I can hopefully maybe drive it out of the garage.

Here are some pics of my lights. The front are some jeep wrangler leds that are a direct replacement for the scout halogens, and the rears are just cheap trailer lights that fit into all the factory holes. They are all wired up and work good. I just added some cheap little leds for the blinkers. This thing had been rear ended a few times. PO had pulled the dents out some, and filled the rest with Bondo. It is half inch thick in places. wiring wheeling it all out them gonna throw on some clear coat so it won't rust. Don't really want to paint it and I think it looks cool with the missing paint and mismatched body panels.

 

[LScout800]

Had some fueling issues with the motor. There was some leaks in the lines and it was not getting pressure. Fixed the fuel lines now it runs. Have to bleed my brakes and clutch, then finish the cooling system and put fluid in the steering system and it should should be able to move under its own power for the first time in 20ish years.

 

[LScout800]

Got it driving a few weeks ago. It runs pretty good pulled it out of the garage and took it for a dive around the neighborhood.

Put on exhaust on it soon after. The neighbors were not to happy about some kid riding around in his scout with a v8 and open headers lol. It was also pretty sketchy because the seats were not mounted. They were on blocks of wood and I ratchet strapped them to the body, and in turn ratchet strapped myself to the seats so I would not fall out. Used an exhaust kit from amazon and a thrush turbo muffler.

I also completely wired the thing, so now all the lights and turn signals work and it starts and runs with a key instead of a sketchy hot wired setup. I am having trouble trying to get the tachometer to work though. It is a universal eling one, and I hooked up the tach wire off of the engine harness to the input on the gauge. It is not working, and have not clue what is wrong with it.

I also widened up the rear fenders by cutting them off and sectioning them. I welded in a filler piece of sheet metal to fill up the gap. I then ground the bondo and paint to get a smooth transition and to show all the layers of bondo and paint. I took off a lot of bondo though. In places it was about a half inch thick. I also added a jeep filler door so I can now put gas in it without removing the tire. I scored up the yellow paint with a wire wheel, and shot the back with clear coat to prevent it from rusting. I love the look of it.

 

[Winchested]

Love this build you've done a phenomenal job so far! Wish I had of learned this much fab work as young as you are.

Planning on shaving that boat anchor if you're staying on dinky 35s? I don't think you'll get to test its travel potential as you'll be stuck on it all the time.

I did a TMR shave on mine and if I did it again, I wouldn't bother with the extra 1/2" clearance from the ring gear shave. The rest of it was super easy.

Question for you on the NV4500 master, what is your plunge stroke distance required for full clutch?

I'm doing a 4500 in mine but they use the same master/slave. But I have to come off the right side of the clutch/ brake box inside the cab and utilize the original mechanical link as there is no room on the drive side of brake booster in the SII.

Love the trans crossmember too I plan on doing one very similar for the trans and NP205.

 

[LScout800]

Love this build you've done a phenomenal job so far! Wish I had of learned this much fab work as young as you are.

Planning on shaving that boat anchor if you're staying on dinky 35s? I don't think you'll get to test its travel potential as you'll be stuck on it all the time.

I did a TMR shave on mine and if I did it again, I wouldn't bother with the extra 1/2" clearance from the ring gear shave. The rest of it was super easy.

Question for you on the NV4500 master, what is your plunge stroke distance required for full clutch?

I'm doing a 4500 in mine but they use the same master/slave. But I have to come off the right side of the clutch/ brake box inside the cab and utilize the original mechanical link as there is no room on the drive side of brake booster in the SII.

Love the trans crossmember too I plan on doing one very similar for the trans and NP205.

Thanks, I grew up in a family of mechanics and fabricators so I was always exposed to this kind of stuff, and have plenty of people to ask for help when I need it.

Planning on shaving the diff. I think I am going to get one of those basic 13 bolt covers and put it on when I have the axle out when I put in a locker. Should have ground the lip off when I was building the axle but oh well. I wheeled an F-250 on 32's for years and figured out how to choose lines because that sterling is almost as bad a boat anchor as a 14 bolt. I am going to get a set of 37's for this thing once I finish up the rest of the truck. They are the biggest tires I can fit before I rub the frame in the front, and have to rethink my shock setup in the rear. These are the original h2 tires, they barely hold air and and have the belts sticking out lol.

When I push in the pedal the plunger rod for the master moves in about 2 1/2 inches. Make sure when you hook up the master to your linkage you have good mechanical advantage. I miscalculated on mine and the clutch is a bit heavy, so I will probably have to change mine up a bit depending on if it makes my leg tired on longer drives.

 

[Winchested]

Thanks, I grew up in a family of mechanics and fabricators so I was always exposed to this kind of stuff, and have plenty of people to ask for help when I need it.

Planning on shaving the diff. I think I am going to get one of those basic 13 bolt covers and put it on when I have the axle out when I put in a locker. Should have ground the lip off when I was building the axle but oh well. I wheeled an F-250 on 32's for years and figured out how to choose lines because that sterling is almost as bad a boat anchor as a 14 bolt. I am going to get a set of 37's for this thing once I finish up the rest of the truck. They are the biggest tires I can fit before I rub the frame in the front, and have to rethink my shock setup in the rear. These are the original h2 tires, they barely hold air and and have the belts sticking out lol.

When I push in the pedal the plunger rod for the master moves in about 2 1/2 inches. Make sure when you hook up the master to your linkage you have good mechanical advantage. I miscalculated on mine and the clutch is a bit heavy, so I will probably have to change mine up a bit depending on if it makes my leg tired on longer drives.

37s will look perfect on it, almost thinking that's all I should have done lol.

As for the clutch, thanks that helps. The higher up on the pivot the lighter the clutch should get, might be able to raise it up a bit and not kill the angle going into the master.

 

[LScout800]

Put together a tubing bending with an eastwood bender, swag offroad hydraulic mount, and an old extra engine stand I did not need.

Started putting together my cage. It is just a basic fastback design, it is not done yet, I am going to add more triangulation and tie it into the sliders which will tie into the frame. This is my first time bending tube, so it is taking me a while because I am trying to get everything perfect the first try. DOM is stupid expensive right now, so trying to keep mistakes to a minimum. I found the Fabrication Series to have good videos on bending, he really helps out a lot when it comes to bending tubing.

I also got myself a 3D printer and stated playing around with it. Figured it would be good for making little plastic mounts for hoses. Stuff like that. It was on sale and I was looking for something to use to improve my CAD skills. Here are some fuel line clamps I printed.

 

[Opiebennett]

Nice work!

 

[LScout800]

Bedlined the interior. Also went ahead and pulled the cage out to weld and paint the right spots. Should have the cage back in and fully welded and painted next weekend.

 

[LScout800]

Been a while, had to take care of some things and school just started so I am a bit limited on time. Trying to get this done before it cools down in the desert, as last winter I did not have a working rig and am tired of riding shotgun in my buddies trucks. Installed the cage, and added additional support in the form of an X between the b pillars.

I then ran out of time for a few weeks, but eventually got back to it, used the leftover DOM to make some sliders, they are just a simple tube suspended by kickers to the frame. The cage ties into the kickers with poly bushings to secure it to the frame.

Here is a pic of the finished interior, I have a bikini top from an old scout ii, but it is a bit on the small side for this cage. (Scout ii had a pipe show bar for the bikini top). May try to make my own bikini top, or try to put a sheet of aluminum over the top of the cage.

It is getting really close. Once I build the rear bumper/spare tire holder I can figure out final spring rates for the coil overs and charge them. I also nabbed a set of 5 37/12.50r17 Falken M/T for 25% off with free shipping. I had always had BFGs on my trucks, and really liked the road manners, traction, and durability from them, but they have gone to stupid prices and I could not justify spending 500 bucks for a single tire. I was going to get some Patagonias cause they were cheap, but from what I have seen the sidewalls are really weak and puncture easily. I have heard good things about Falkens, and got them for the same price as Patagonias so I will see how they do.

 

[LScout800]

Also, been planning for a swing out tire carrier. I know some people have used hubs as the pivot point for the tire carrier. I have a few sets of dana 30/44 lockouts/hubs along with some Dodge dana 60 unit bearings. Would I be able to mount a hub on the back bumper, and weld the carrier assembely directly to the hub? This would probably look janky as hell though. I could buy the spindle kit, but those are pricey and the hubs are free. Any advice from someone who has done or seen it done this way?

 

[Opiebennett]

Also, been planning for a swing out tire carrier. I know some people have used hubs as the pivot point for the tire carrier. I have a few sets of dana 30/44 lockouts/hubs along with some Dodge dana 60 unit bearings. Would I be able to mount a hub on the back bumper, and weld the carrier assembely directly to the hub? This would probably look janky as hell though. I could buy the spindle kit, but those are pricey and the hubs are free. Any advice from someone who has done or seen it done this way?

I think you bolt a spindle onto the bumper, and then Machine the wheel flange off the wheel hub and weld your tire rack to the wheel hub. Then the locking hub is just for storage / decoration.

Bonus points if you install an axle shaft in the spindle, then you can open the swing out and lock the hub whoever you want it to stay.

I bought an expensive tire carrier spindle kit from Summit Machine, which is a nice piece. Because I'm on unit bearings, I intend to mount a spare unit bearings as the tire attachment for the swing out, with a broken shaft and a spare hub to keep it from spinning.

 

[LScout800]

I think you bolt a spindle onto the bumper, and then Machine the wheel flange off the wheel hub and weld your tire rack to the wheel hub. Then the locking hub is just for storage / decoration.

Bonus points if you install an axle shaft in the spindle, then you can open the swing out and lock the hub whoever you want it to stay.

I bought an expensive tire carrier spindle kit from Summit Machine, which is a nice piece. Because I'm on unit bearings, I intend to mount a spare unit bearings as the tire attachment for the swing out, with a broken shaft and a spare hub to keep it from spinning.

I have an old scout ii dana 30 in my junk pile. I might use those hubs because they are the external style, I could make a plate with the same pattern as the flange and bolt it onto the top of the hub, then weld the tube for the tire mount directly to the top of the plate on top of the hub. Although I would loose the ability to lock the hub though to prevent the tire from swinging while it is open. I am wondering if it would even be strong enough. I checked, and have plenty of dana 60 hubs but no stub axles. Might head down to the junkyard this weekend to snag a dana 44 hub spindle and stub.

 

[Winchested]

TMR spindle is just over $100. As are many others.

I used a home made plate with holes drilled in it and a 5/16" spring return pull pin to stop it from swinging open.

Til the latch broke and the prick swung open and sheared off that 5/16 spring pin. Then used a gr 8 bolt welded to it.

Then put in a heavy 1/2" spring pin to prevent the prick from swinging open if the latch broke again.

What lever you choose it needs to be welded fully through the bumper from bottom to top to have the strength.

Now that I run 40s I also used a 1" ratchet strap to hold the swing away to the tailgate and end caps. Especially when offroad.

Make sure you put 3 or 4 blocks under the tire carrier arm that it rests on when closed. This will prevent loading and bouncing on the spindle which will fatigue break it.

 

[LScout800]

Finished the bumper for now, going to hold off on the spare tire mount for now have to get some parts for it I don't have and I don't need it to wheel the truck.

 

[LScout800]

Did some other boring stuff, like rebuild and install driveshafts ect. This is also getting close to the first stage of completion. So I picked up another project. Was not planning on buying anything else, but ran across this and it was too good to pass up.

 

[LScout800]

Got the 37's mounted up and on the truck. Biggest tire I have ever ran was a 32, so these are huge to me.

They will clear the back ok, but the front will need to be clearanced, I moved the alxe forward a little so it might be as simple as trimming the front of the fender a bit so they could turn. It is also sitting about 3 inches too low. Frame is at about 19 1/2, has 3 inches of bump in the back, and the front is sitting low with 2 inches of bump. Measured for and ordered new springs, should raise it 3 in the rear and 4 in the front. Been doing lots of smaller projects, like mirrors and wiring, and have a lot more little stuff to do.

While driving and turning around the front end has an issue with a clinking noise. When you turn to the passenger, you get a clink right before you hit the stops and the same clink when you turn back. Nothing moves. I stared at everything move while it was being churned for a while, and nothing looked bad or moved in ways that would cause it. I appears to be coming from the front crosmember, and did not do this before I put on the bumper. Is driving me crazy.

The radiator also had a leak within the core. Had some issues with summit and now can't warranty the radiator. Is not bad but will make a noticeable puddle on the floor after letting it get to temp. Really do not want to buy another radiator right now, anyone have luck with that radiator fixing liquid from the auto parts store?

 

[Opiebennett]

The radiator also had a leak within the core. Had some issues with summit and now can't warranty the radiator. Is not bad but will make a noticeable puddle on the floor after letting it get to temp. Really do not want to buy another radiator right now, anyone have luck with that radiator fixing liquid from the auto parts store?

I'd pull the radiator and cap one outlet and make a small rig to pressurize the other, then find the leak woth soapy water and evaluate if it can be welded or brazed.