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Once a Postal 67 800 Build

Unless you like working on a project constantly, enjoy it for a while during the summer and then do shit to it in the winter. Also, I see you are in CA. Why did I think you were somewhere South like Arizona?
 
The Freeak said:
I've been there. Hell, to a certain extent I'm there now with one of my projects.

Any chance a JK frame would be close to the right dimensions?
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I have thought about this. Those are good frames and I am pretty sure they are pretty easy to stretch/shorten to a scout wheelbase since the frames between two and 4 doors are very similar. Plus you get every suspension option under the sun available to you along with any bumper or skid plates you could want.

Although part of the fun for me is building everything from scratch, eventually I will become good at it.
cagcig said:
Unless you like working on a project constantly, enjoy it for a while during the summer and then do shit to it in the winter. Also, I see you are in CA. Why did I think you were somewhere South like Arizona?
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My goal is to get this running and driving, then start building a chassis from scratch then dropping the body onto that and getting rid of the old scout frame. Take everything I learned from this and just apply it to the new build. It has been almost a year since I have had something to wheel and riding passenger and being a spotter just does not scratch that itch.
 
What is the general coconscious with square tube driveshafts? Getting some pretty significant slip in the front and the current shaft nearly pulls apart when the suspension drops out. Thing will not see much faster that 35 or so in 4 wheel drive and it has locking hubs. Thinking 2 1/2" quarter wall inside of 3" quarter wall. I was also thinking about adding some zerks to the outer tube to make it easy to add some grease in there to keep it from squeaking or rusting together. Anything else to consider before I get some more steel tomorrow morning?
 
LScout800 said:
Thing will not see much faster that 35 or so in 4 wheel drive and it has locking hubs. Thinking 2 1/2" quarter wall inside of 3" quarter wall. I was also thinking about adding some zerks to the outer tube to make it easy to add some grease in there to keep it from squeaking or rusting together. Anything else to consider before I get some more steel tomorrow morning?
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That plan sounds fine for those speeds.

The longer the engagement the two squared have with each other the less vibration it'll have, not that you probably don't already know that.

And do a good job on the yoke fit-up. don't just send it because "it's square it's gonna vibrate".
 
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Call up Adams and get a 7" slip shaft built... I run them front and back on my rig.
 
When you cut out your front cross member, what did you replace it with? Do you have a picture?
 
1/4 Inch C channel. Boxed in either side with fishplates down the frame. You can see some pictures early on in the thread, I just welded it on real half assed at first since I was not sure where the steering box was going to go then properly welded and boxed it in once I mounted the steering box. You can probably use box tubing but might run into issues with the steering box unless you mount it outside the frame, but the channel is pretty beefy and I also bolted my bumper to it along its length so that reinforces it a bit.
cagcig said:
When you cut out your front cross member, what did you replace it with? Do you have a picture?
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Installed locker, sway bar, driveshafts, oil, and a whole bunch of little shit. And went mall crawling.
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Still got to figure out T-Case shifter (range box works fine). The dual low ranges is so nice. Just give it a touch of throttle to crawl up the rocks in my yard, don't have to touch the clutch.
 
Looking dang good! What needs to be done before you hit the Rubicon or fordyce?
 
Went Hammers, bombing around the desert was fun. The reduction box was having issues shifting, so it did not gwt tested. Did turkey claw.
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Truck did good all weekend. Nearly rolled it while drifting in the dunes. Cousins Blazer also got fucked. 6.2+Dana 44+dunes=Fucked.
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So been working on the steering, mainly trying to get it drive nice. It had bumpsteer that was noticable on acceleration/decceleration. I used a high steer arm to make the drag link flatter, and extended the draglink 4 inches. I also added 1.5 inch wheel spacers to clear my tires.
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Drag link is 36 inches long with a vertical change of 2.5 inches from TRE to TRE. The panhard is 33 inches long with 5 inches of vertical change from bolt to bolt.
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I have just less than a quarter turn of steering from bumpsteer through the suspension travel. The tape is my reference point. It is better than it was before. Going to extend/lower one end of the panhard to make the legnths/angles the same to hopefully get rid of the bumpsteer completely. I used off the shelf brackets from barnes before and it did not help much in the geometry department.
I also am going to swap my steering box, it is leaking bad/loose.and I have a new one on the way. I was able to get more steering angle though, so that was nice.
I also have a set of ruffstuff diff covers to put on along with a torq locker for the rear, and some cheap rock lights/light bar. We will see if this is ready in time for KOH.
 
What are you running for a pitman arm?

Couldn't you just run a straight drag link?
 
LScout800 said:
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Going to extend/lower one end of the panhard to make the legnths/angles the same to hopefully get rid of the bumpsteer completely.
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When I did my 3 link on my toyota, I made my draglink and panhard same length and degree. It solved all my bump steer issues, I know you're going away from the y link but that's how I did it. Goodluck with making it to KOH!
 
Sluggy said:
When I did my 3 link on my toyota, I made my draglink and panhard same length and degree. It solved all my bump steer issues, I know you're going away from the y link but that's how I did it. Goodluck with making it to KOH!
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That is the goal. Y link had some pretty bad angles though, and to make the panhard the same length/angle would have been impossible. (Panhard would have wanted to live where the engine is). Plus it would have increased the side to side movement of the axle. Hopefully this will make everything work a lot nicer. I have it down to where the only thing making it kind of sketchy to drive at speed is the bumpsteer, so hoping this solves those issues.

Tonight I am planning on making the panhard the proper length/angle, hopefully it works out.
 
Bad picture, but this is one side of my new panhard mount. Moved down 2 7/8 and for a 3 1/2 inch longer panhard. That bolt head poking out from under that hose is the current mount. It gets tight, the rear bracket is probably just going to kiss the axle housing, I will have to trim the radius arm mount back a little. It gets tight at full stuff, everything gets to about a 1/4 inch of each other.
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About it for tonight. Ran out of cutting disks and store are closed, ordered more should be here tommarrow.
 
Finished up my panhard modifications.
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Thing drives like it is on tracks now:smokin:. It gets a tad squirrely at speed (like 60 or so), but I think moving the links on the sway bar to stiffen it up will help. I can now shift without having it dart of to the side...

Things to get done before hammers:
-Steering box
-Diff Covers
-Lights

After Hammers:
-Rear locker
-New driveshafts
-Make a way to organize the bed
 
FIttings on the new box.
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New box bolted in.
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The nut got stuck in that socket... No matter what I do I can't get it to seperate. We will see how long it last before it falls off.

Gave it a 10 mile test drive, no leaks and operates a tad smoother than the old box. Was cruising at 55-60. Still need to adjust sway bar, the rear still feels loose. I also need to stiffen the valving on the rear shocks a tad.
 
Got back from my weekend at KOH. Managed to bust it up pretty good. Ran part of Sledge, managed to put a nice dent in the reat quarter panel. Moved over to Turkey Claw and blew powersteering, destroyed the rear driveshaft, bent a TRE. Had to get pulled up to the end of the trail, and rode back with no powersteering on the front shaft. Was a fun night.
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crazy4ih said:
But you wheeled it! Thats a win!
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Yep sure was happy for that. Crazy how capable it is compared to other stuff I had wheeled.
Winchested said:
Yikes sure it was a blast. Now you found your week links.
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Yep. Was planning on getting new shafts and changing the power steering pump anyways. The entire time it ran smooth and did not overheat or stall randomly, and my shoddy hacked up drivetrain held together even after bouncing off the limiter a few times.
 

Quick clip of it on a rock garden by Sledge.
 
Wanted to spring for a set of custom shafts but it is not in the budget. Instead we fix the old one.
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Will line up ok for now. Pulled my tie rod off, I bent it a little. It will be fine will straighten it in the tube kinker. The TRE on the other hand need to be replaced.
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Hoping to get this thing done this weekend. Got a buddy coming in from Australia, want to show him that wheeling is a little more than driving a hilux on a beach...
 
Changed the power steering pump and fixed the bent tie rod. Made a huge difference, steers much easier/faster even if I pin the brake pedal to the floor. Old pump was filled full of metal shavings...:homer:
 
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